jkatsoudas
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Posts posted by jkatsoudas
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Not to downplay the situation, but you should peruse the MB forums some time...
Never one to miss an opportunity to bash MBZ, eh?
I grow more convinced by the day that you're a Lexus employee.
I don't think anyone would have doubts about that. Lexus is THE BEST, MB, BMW- BAD BAD ;)- well it' not so hard to figure out who's here ;).
Why are you surprised that on a Lexus enthusiast club forum you have members who are staunch fans of Lexus vehicles. Go on any forum, you'll find the same thing. Post in a MB forum you think Lexus is a better car. You will get REAMED.
RX400h doesn't work for Lexus. He's just a Lexus fan. If you don't want to read what Lexus fans have to say, don't post on a Lexus enthusiast site.
Thats not a request either. We're not going to tolerate anybody's opinion being devalued or our members being rideculed for being fans of this car company. You're welocme to your opinions, and you're welcome to express your opinions. However, you've got to swallow the opinions of others too.
I have no problem with someone being a fan of something. However, RX400h's dig on MBZ in this thread in particular (but not unique to this thread) came completely out of left field. If you can't be a fan of something without taking pot shots at something else to support your opinion that doesn't seem like a very well-defended opinion. If you can't tolerate someone coming onto this forum and not being all starry-eyed over everything Lexus it seems to me that you're the one thats intolerant of peoples' opinions. If this is jus too inflamatory for you, please feel free to ban me.
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Fear of law suits ... everone WANTS the functionality ... and everyone wants to sue for damages when they crash into someone while programming off the MFD. If you want to drive & punch buttons ... get everyone to write your legislator ... take away products liability rules so manufacturers don't have to pay out when folks hit an overpass ... thus ending up brain dead ... with a family wanting compensation for your injuries ... and then you're good to go! ;)
Sorry, but that's just a bunch of BS. Unfortunately, Toyota/Lexus lawyers subscribe to this same BS. No other company has these restrictions in place, and we haven't seen a plague of lawsuits against auto manufacturers for nav system-induced crashes.
Not to worry, though. If "RX400h" is true to form, he will be along shortly to tell us all what a piece of crap MBZ nav systems are in comparison to Lexus and how we should be thankful for what we have and it's the way it is because that's what people are asking for. :whistles:
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Does anybody know how they work? How do they sense to rain on the windshield?
Ken
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no I totally understand, im looking to purchase 20 x 8.5" wheels so it can easily support 255/40/20 tires, however if I can squeeze 275/40/20 on the rim I would love the extra traction. Anyone think an extra 20mm tire would fit?
It would likely stick out past the fenders, based on what I see on my car. Here are a couple of crappy pics I took with my cell phone camera of my car (on the left) with 255/55/18's and another RX with stock 235/55/18's. You can see that the 255's come pretty close to the edge of the fenders, especially in the front.
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The better specialists are available here:
Lexus Forum Hamburg Ost
info.Hamburg-Ost@lexus.de
So, if you are interersted.... get your proof on your own.
I wrote lexus.de a while ago ... still waiting ... surprise surprise, no response. Now let's see, what is there, maybe a million or more RX's on the road? If this WAS a real steering issue? What did "Frau Blucher" figure we'd all be thinking ... maybe something like "That does it, I'm putting my 400h up sale in the auto trader" (shaking head). "Thank goodness an engineer was driving when the steering went ka put" Hugh? What does that mean? My wife has had a high speed front flat in a truck, that had NO power steering ... now try THAT on for size if you want an 'E' ticket ride. She didn't say, 'oh my god sell it quick'. Similarly, there have been hundreds of folks driving when a power steering unit looses a belt. "HURRY, SELL the CAR !!" Who know that apparently some will do that. I guess we won't be hearing regularly then, from Frau Blucker any more. Oh well ... don't let the door hit you in the rear on the way out.
A "million or so" Hybrid RX's on the road (after all, the specific complaint is against electric-assisted PS) is probably a few orders of magnitude optimistic. There are, BTW, several documented incidents (by the NTSB) of electic assist failure in both RX hybrids and HiHy's (same system), however those have all resulted in loss of power assist- not this reverse steer that the OP reports.
That notwithstanding, let's burn the OP at the stake for daring to post on this forum and soil the virgin reputation of this fine vehicle!
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Sad enough...
Please contact European LEXUS HQ, or even better the local LEXUS FORUM HAMBURG EAST dealer (english spoken).... they will certainly confirm what you do not want to hear....
please do not overestimate human power, if the power steering wants to get the other way....with more power than you or your wife has...
Without posting PROOF It is my beleif that you will not convince any member on these forums. Spoof :chairshot:
LOL- you guys are hilarious. "We want PROOF! We don't believe anything we read on a forum (but if you want proof that MBZ is crap, just go read the MBZ forums)."
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These tires are wider and larger than the OEM tires and due to suspension geometry there was some interference when installing them.
The rear tire rubs against one of the screw heads the secure the plastic fender well lining. This only temporary as when weight is put on the suspension, the tire quickly moves out and up, away from the interference. So, unless I become airborne, this is not an issue.
The clearance behind the tire to the rear shock tower is tight. Any mud or snow that attach's to the tire will definitely be scraped off by the tower. There is NO room for rear chains, but that is true of the OEM tires as well.
I have also noticed that when turning lock to lock going forward I can hear a slight bit of rubbing. It only seems to be on the drivers side when turning left, but that could be unique to my car's assembly tolerances. The rubbing seems to be with a bit of plastic that extends down from the plastic fender well liner. Not a concern.
So your saying, 255/55/18 is the biggest size you could fit under your RX? is the tire too tall or too wide? would a 255/50 fit better than your 255/55? If your indicating it rubs up against the plastic it seems like your tire is far too tall. I'm assuming I could go with a wider tire but not as tall as yours since im interested in getting 20s on my RX to stiffen up the handling quite a bit.
I'd agree with Skyfish that there's no room for anything taller than a 255/55/18 in the fenderwell, but I haven't experienced any rubbing with my 255/55 Alenzas. A 255/50 would have a bit more clearance, and would be identical diameter to the factory 235/55 so there wouldn't be any increase in speedo error, but there are only two tires made in a 255/50 that I could find. They are both Pirelli and they are both supposedly summer performance tires so they didn't meet my needs. Also, on a 7" wide rim, the 255/55's have a fair bit of sidewall angling to fit on the narrow rim (this size is supposed to be on an 8" rim) and the shop had a bit of a hard time getting the bead to pop into position, so a 255/50 would likely be even harder to get on that rim (just speculation on my part). No idea what effect, if any, this would have on driveability.
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Not to downplay the situation, but you should peruse the MB forums some time...
Never one to miss an opportunity to bash MBZ, eh?
I grow more convinced by the day that you're a Lexus employee.
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It was a simple question. Given the cars available RIGHT NOW, would you purchase an RX400h again, yes or no, and why,
If you want a simple yes or no, start a poll not a thread. :whistles:
This discussion, like any discussion, will wander a bit as people have a normal conversation. If you read the thread you'll see how we ended up on the battery discussion from the original question.
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I don't know battery physices, but battery designers / manufacturers say battery life is based not on time, rather the ratio between the rated life, the depth of discharge for which rated cycle life was determined and the cycle life at rated depths of discharge and discharge current.
Interesting paper. Thanks. However, by their own admission, they distinguish between battery wear and battery aging in this paper and choose to address only battery wear in their model.
When considering battery life, one can distinguish between battery aging and battery wear. Batteryaging refers to those factors or processes that tend to limit the duration of the battery’s physical
integrity and its ability to perform its intended function. Battery wear refers to those factors or
processes that tend to limit the amount of electric energy that can be stored or delivered. Corrosion
is a major component of battery aging, particularly in lead-acid batteries, which are the most
common. All batteries, however, are subject to processes that tend to deteriorate and contaminate
the plates and/or electrolyte, so that even in continuous float service battery life time is limited.
Ageing, of course can be greatly accelerated by adverse environmental conditions or improper
maintenance, but these things can presumably be controlled. Battery wear, on the other hand, is
much more a function of the particular charge/discharge history the battery is subjected to. An
abusive use pattern can cause a battery to fail long before it would cease to be viable merely through
aging processes. The life prediction method described here does not address battery aging; it only
attempts to predict battery life based on accumulated wear.
A further distinction to be made is between the life of an individual cell and the useful life of a
collection of cells in a large battery bank. Small differences between cells in plate availability, state
of charge, and temperature can become quite pronounced with repeated cycling of the battery. If
these differences are not corrected, the weak cells will drag down the whole battery string, resulting
in premature failure. The present analysis is concerned with individual cell life under prescribed
discharge pattern. We assume that the battery receives proper periodic equalization charges and
relatively uniform battery temperature control.
Many factors contribute to the useful life of a battery cell in a given application. These include depth
of discharge, discharge rate, cell temperature, charging regime, dwell time at low and high states of
charge, battery maintenance procedures, current ripple, and amount and frequency of overcharge.
The system designer and/or operator has some degree of control over all of these factors except depth
of discharge and discharge rate. Once a battery is selected to meet a given load, the power demanded
by the load will determine the depth and rate of discharge, which is why these two factors are the
focus of this life prediction method. Strictly speaking, in some hybrid power applications,
particularly where battery recharging is done primarily with renewable energy, there is very little
control over charge rate either. However, there is some evidence that high charge rates at low and
intermediate states of charge are not harmful to battery life (and in fact may increase it) , and until
more research is done in this area, we will not consider the effect of charge rate in our model.
I found another paper that also has some good information:
http://www.cobasys.com/pdf/presentations/C...PaperFormat.pdf
A brief excerpt from this paper:
NiMH batteries exhibit certain failure mechanisms that determine the end of life of the battery. Some of these mechanismscan be catastrophic (i.e. render the battery inoperative) while others are a natural part of use and aging of the materials in the
cell.
The primary criterion used for end of life in many applications is the point at which the battery capacity has faded below 80%
of its rated capacity.
They do go on to say, near the end, that some hypothetical calculations put the life expectancy of a NiMH pack near 10-15 in certain conditions.
The common theme seems to be that batteries wear due to excessive charge or discharge, exposure to excessive heat or cold, and number of charge/discharge cycles. They also age through corrosion of the plate material.
Excessive charge can be controlled by the electronics. Excessive discharge is a little trickier, since all batteries naturally self-discharge at a certain rate while stored. The car's electronics will prevent it from excessively discharging below a certain point while driving, but if you were to park the car while the battery is in a state of low charge and leave it parked there long enough, the batteries may self-discharge below the 1.0 volt per cell minimum that has been show to cause damage to NiMH batteries. There's another thread about how long you can "safely" park the car, and it's a tricky question because it depends on the state of charge of the batteries when you parked it. If you parked it with a pretty good charge, it can sit for a while but if you park it with a low charge it's possible for the batteries to self-discharge to the point that they damage themselves. Complicating all of this is the fact the environment is tough to control in this application. In a very hot climate, say Tempe in the summer, it's not too difficult to imagine the vehicle's interior temperature climbing above the point where it starts to impact long-term battery life. It's not going to kill the pack instantly but it will affect it's lifespan. Excessive cold has a simiar impact. So, it's not too hard to imagine this theoretical 10-15 year lifespan being reduced significantly once you start to factor in environmental and usage issues.
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The BMW is rated at 16 mpg city / 24 mpg hwy and the Mercedes, 16/Highway 21 MPG, while the heavier RX400h is rated at 27 mpg city and 24 mpg highway, handily beating both German cars by a long shot when it comes to fuel consumption.
Maybe in San Diego you can get that sort of mileage year-round, but anywhere that it actually gets cold you'll see the RX fuel economy plummet in the winter when it has to run the ICE to generate heat. Even up here, just a few hunded miles north of you, I see a significant drop in fuel economy in the winter. If you factor year-round average fuel economy for an RX in "average" weather conditions, the RX doesn't handily beat either one, in fact my wife's E350 gets better fuel economy than my RX right now.
Hugh? Average winter in the Flathead Valley is in the low 30's ... with maybe 2 to 10 sub zeros every other year. You can STILL get in the 30's mpg simply by driving purposfully, combining short trips, blocking your grill and adding a block heater. Sure, if you don't do that, take tons of short trips, then you'll sufffer the mpg consequences ... but it's simply up the the driver.
You're right- all of those things will make a difference and it's up to each person to decide if the extra mpg is worth the effort. However, 99% of hybrid drivers won't do those things. My point is simply that you can't drive the car the same way year-round and expect 27/24 mpg. Once you factor the cold-weather specific mpg decline of hybrids their advantage over conventional ICE vehicles dwindles.
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Actually, the NiMH batteries in the RX are good for 150,000 miles according to Toyota's extensive testing. That's significantly more than 5 years worth of driving for most people. During the time it takes to accumulate that many miles, the repair bills for MBs, VWs, Audis, and even BMWs would be exponetially higher than that of any Lexus. Keep any of these German cars long enough and you would know.
Certainly the batteries may "live" for that long, but they will be operating at far less than their original rated capacity. That's just a fact of all lithium-based batteries.
Hugh? There are canadian cab companies (rememer how harsh THOSE winters are) that are racking up over 300K miles on their hybrids, while showing very little battery pack degridation. Sure, like any car part, there'll be exceptions ... but so far, those hybrids that are passing 200K and above are doing way better than expected.
It's time, not mileage that degrades battery packs. A Lithium or Nickel-based battery pack will degrade at a certain percentage per year, regardless of use. 300K miles on a cab is likely less than 3 years. Let's see how they do in another 2 or 3.
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"... at $200 every 5K miles"
I pay $30 max for oil changes at the local Toyota dealer and about $15 if I do it myself. You don't have to pay the high Lexus service fees.
Yeah, but then you're not getting that outstandind Lexus dealership service that everyone seems to prize. :whistles: I didn't make this number up- Lexus of Stevens Creek wants $199 for a routine 5K service visit.
By the same token, you wouldn't need to pay $2K to have brakes serviced as in a prior poster's example. That's just as crazy as a $200 oil change.
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oil changes are peanuts. How can you expect to only pay $2,000 for repairs for 100,000 miles?? You realize there are loads of things NOT covered under warranties, like labor, misc parts, tires, normal wear and tear that german cars seem to exhibit much more than lexus'. By the way, we have electric steering, NO P/S, regenerative brakes that last 100k + miles. Brakes on my ML500 cost me almost $2k for all rotors/pads/install and that was at a local shop not the dealer! Things like a broken window motor ($500) and a broken sunroof motor ($500) all add up quickly. I would love to compare the ownership costs from a RX400h to a ML500 over the 7 year lifespan. I'll put down money that the Lexus is far less costly to own than a ML500, not to mention almost double the gas mileage. My ML500 got 13-14 mpg the way I drove, my lexus gets 21-22 and its not even broken in yet
Minor, you say? Let's see... at $200 every 5K miles, that works out to $4,000 in oil changes over 100K miles (not counting the cost of the synthetic oil itself if I want to upgrade over what Lexus installs). $200 every 13K miles for the MBZ works out to $1,600 over that same timeframe, and Mobil1 is included. That's a $2,400 difference. More than enough to cover that brake service.
All the other stuff you mention- window motors, sunroofs, etc are ALL covered (including labor, loaner car, towing if needed) under the bumper to bumper extended warranty. Even the nav system and all electronics. So yes, I'm pretty confident that any needed repairs won't cost me anything out of pocket. Consumables, on the other hand, cost money but that's par for the course with either car. Go read the threads about the crappy Goodyear tires on the RX and then tell the folks that had to replace their tires after 13K miles that their RX is cheaper to maintain. As far as the comparison between the ML500's gas mileage vs the RX... not sure what that has to do with anything. Maybe if you compare it to the LX470 that might be more appropriate.
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Actually, the NiMH batteries in the RX are good for 150,000 miles according to Toyota's extensive testing. That's significantly more than 5 years worth of driving for most people. During the time it takes to accumulate that many miles, the repair bills for MBs, VWs, Audis, and even BMWs would be exponetially higher than that of any Lexus. Keep any of these German cars long enough and you would know.
Certainly the batteries may "live" for that long, but they will be operating at far less than their original rated capacity. That's just a fact of all lithium-based batteries.
As far as repair costs go, I know that repairs for our MBZ will cost us exactly $2,000 for 7 years or 100,000 miles, whichever comes first (we bought the extended warranty). After that, it's sold and we're on to a new car. Anyhow, my prior comment wasn't about repair costs, but rather merely stating that projected fuel economy of an RX should go down as battery capacity diminishes with age.
While we're on the topic of costs to the consumer, here's another little pet peeve of mine. Why is it that MBZ's come from the factory with Mobil1 synthetic, and their recommended oil change interval is 13K miles, while Lexus come from the factory with conventional oil and their oil change interval is 5K miles? Even if I convert my RX to Mobil1 (which I have) I still need to change the oil every 5K miles or risk voiding the warranty for not following service interval guidance? How about we calculate the cost to the consumer of having to change your oil 2.5X as often in order to maintain the warranty?
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The BMW is rated at 16 mpg city / 24 mpg hwy and the Mercedes, 16/Highway 21 MPG, while the heavier RX400h is rated at 27 mpg city and 24 mpg highway, handily beating both German cars by a long shot when it comes to fuel consumption.
Maybe in San Diego you can get that sort of mileage year-round, but anywhere that it actually gets cold you'll see the RX fuel economy plummet in the winter when it has to run the ICE to generate heat. Even up here, just a few hunded miles north of you, I see a significant drop in fuel economy in the winter. If you factor year-round average fuel economy for an RX in "average" weather conditions, the RX doesn't handily beat either one, in fact my wife's E350 gets better fuel economy than my RX right now.
Interesting. How about after 100k miles on the E350, think it will still attain better MPG than the RX400h? Doesn't the RX keep upping its MPG as it wears on?
Good question- no idea. I've only had my RX for a little over a year (~13K miles), and I haven't seen any significant increase in fuel economy past the first month or so. Given that NiMH battery cells have a life expectancy of about 5 years, unless you replace the battery cells in the RX I'd expect a significant decrease in fuel economy in the RX past 100K miles. Of course, it does carry a 7 year, 100K mile warranty on the hybrid system, so if you could provide documented proof of decreased mileage and successfully argue that hybrid battery capacity is causing it, you might be able to get a free battery replacement before that warranty expires. I have no idea what criteria a dealership would use in agreeing to a hybrid battery pack replacement- it may be only upon a fully dead pack, but anyone with a laptop knows that long before a battery fully dies it's lost a great deal of it's charge potential. My current "5 hour" laptop battery is good for about 2.5 hours right now.
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The BMW is rated at 16 mpg city / 24 mpg hwy and the Mercedes, 16/Highway 21 MPG, while the heavier RX400h is rated at 27 mpg city and 24 mpg highway, handily beating both German cars by a long shot when it comes to fuel consumption.
Maybe in San Diego you can get that sort of mileage year-round, but anywhere that it actually gets cold you'll see the RX fuel economy plummet in the winter when it has to run the ICE to generate heat. Even up here, just a few hunded miles north of you, I see a significant drop in fuel economy in the winter. If you factor year-round average fuel economy for an RX in "average" weather conditions, the RX doesn't handily beat either one, in fact my wife's E350 gets better fuel economy than my RX right now.
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the "idrive" or whatever sucks, lexus Navi is 10 times better than any other system out there. mercedes is absolute junk, BMW's isn't any better. Lexus has the most user friendly in car entertainment system (navi/stereo). Plus all you need is a hack to use the phone while your driving.
I agree on the iDrive sucking, though it's suckiness has been somewhat diminished in newer generations. Honestly though, how often do you use the nav system? I don't drive to some place I need guidance to but more than once every couple of months. The MBZ nav system, while being light years behind Toyota/Lexus, gets the job done. I'd gladly trade some nav system usability to address all my other complaints.
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Unless you are planning on buying diesels, no BMW 5-series or Mercedes E-Class wagon will average 25 MPG. If you believe they will, you will be very disappointed.
Go check the specs. The 5 series gets 25 mpg highway. Most of my driving is highway or expressway. My wife's E350 actually get's better than 25 mpg on pure highway driving.
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What problems have you had and what shortcomings are there? Most of what I've found through research is that they're very reliable.
The biggest shortcoming I can identify is the useless AWD system. These are really FWD cars with occasional rear wheel assist. From what I've read, the whole hybrid system basically shuts down if it encounters slippery conditions it doesn't like, particularly deep snow. Previously, we had Audi wagons that have one of he best AWD systems on the planet. My '94 Jeep Grand Cherokee also has an excellent AWD system.
Despite the fact that I had an ECU fail on it recently, I can't really harp on reliability. I'm sure it was a fluke and I'm not really interested in getting into a "consumer reports says so..." sort of debate.
My complaints are more around the many things that annoy me about the car. When I bought it I chose it because it had the room I needed for two young kids and hobbies with lots of gear, and it got great fuel economy for a car with that much space. I valued those two things above all other decision factors at that time. Items that have since come to annoy me are:
- POOR front seats. They are so uncomfortable that we can no longer take the car on long road trips, as my wife's back is sore for a week afterwards.
- handling is too soft. Too much body roll. Lack of feedback and responsiveness. I'm sure others will chime and say that it's a luxury SUV, and it's smooth because that's what people want. I guess one man's smooth is another man's crappy handling. There are many other luxury vehicles that are still smooth but handle much better.
- No subwoofer in a $50K luxury SUV with ML sound? In general, I'm very unimpressed with the ML sound system, even in comparison to the ML systems in other Lexus vehicles.
- Lexus dealership service. When I took it in to get the ECU failure repaired, they returned it with TWO door dings in it.
- "AWD" system. Sure all four wheels can be made to go round and round, but to call the RX an AWD is the greatest exaggeration in history.
- The general treatment of Lexus customers as morons that will kill themselves given the opportunity. Everything from the "I agree" screen to locking out most functions while driving, to the obnoxious warning lights for even the most minor of issues like low washer fluid.
I've since come to the realization that I don't need an SUV, and I don't need a hybrid to meet my needs. I am likely to sell this thing in the next year and get a BMW 535xi wagon or a MBZ E-class wagon (if they come out with a sport package for it). Either one gives me the space I need, has gas mileage comparable to the RX, handles light years better than the RX, comes with better dealership service, and generally treats drivers like they are intelligent enough to dial the phone or use the nav system while driving.
Edit: Oh yeah, they both come with "real" AWD systems, to boot.
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Just curious as to see if anyone else would have bought a different car/suv if they could do it over again.
I would def keep my RX400h, I just wish I bought one used so I could lower my truck and stiffen the suspension, it needs better handling but besides that its perfect!
Nope. After having lived with it for a year, I wouldn't buy it again. Sure it's reliable (or so RX400h tells me- mine's been in the shop more than my wife's MBZ), and sure it's a hybrid. However, it's many shortcomings now outweigh those benefits. If I had to do it again I'd definitely buy something else.
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The Michelins that came with my car have about 39K miles on them, but I've always thought there was too much road noise. The 2 tires I'm looking at are the Michelin Energy MXV4S8 from Costco or the Yokohama YK520 from Discount Tire. The Yoko's are a little bit better priced, just trying to get the best tire. Really looking for good wear and a quiet ride. Any votes for one vs. the other?
Thanks for your help/feedback!
Check out the Bridgestone Dueler Alenza's. I just put a set on my RX400h, and I've been very impressed with how smooth and quiet they are compared to the OEM Michelins.
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I've had my RX400h for almost 3 years now and love it except for 2 things: (1) the seats aren't supportive enough; and, (2) the telescopic steering wheel doesn't extend enough. Does anyone have a suggestion about the seats or know if there is a way to modify the telescoping function to make the driving position more comfortable? Thanks!
I've toyed with the idea of going to some place like this:
http://www.premierupholstery.com/index
and having them replace the foam with something firmer and possibly build up the bolsters and lumbar support a bit. I've talked to them over the phone, and it's something they can definitely do- it's just a question of how much I want to spend. I haven't had a chance to go in yet and have them give me a quote. No idea on the steering column- that one will likely be tougher to solve.
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5. I'm guessing that goofygrin was driving daddy's car for date night. Just a hunch.
LOL- I was gonna say that he wasn't paying attention in high school physics, but he may not have gotten to that class yet. <_<
Dude, Goofygrin, you're not lifting up the WHOLE car to change the flat (or if you are, you've got bigger problems than a scissor jack). Go pull up the corner of your mattress with one hand. Does that feel like you're lifting the weight of the whole mattress?
Does The Rx 400h Hybrid Harbours A Dangerous Design Fault
in 04 - 09 Lexus RX330 / RX350 / RX400h
Posted
Just so I'm clear on the rules of the forum- it's OK to post that MBZ or BMW or (insert make here) are pieces of *&$% in every thread I post in, but if I point out that someone else does this repeatedly, that's not OK. Gotcha.