Gruss

Many thanks - saved me a bunch got a new mast/rack for $12 on ebay.

My rack was snapped with one "loop" remaining in the holder.

Would have taken me an hour but I had one problem - when feeding in the new rack, I hit a ledge or something and couldn't get it past. I took the motor unit out again and checked the "pipe" wasn't blocked. It wasn't. The only way I could thread the rack was to shave it to a point with a utility knife (just a quarter inch at the end). After wiggling, went in a treat.

Thanks again. Here are a couple of pix that might help others...

I don't know about the post-cat sensor but the upstream sensors are Air Fuel Ratio sensors, not "simple" O2 sensors.

From my understanding (google) old style O2 sensors can tell if the ratio is "too rich" or "too lean"; hence they switch back and forth as the ECM changes the mixture.

With A/F Ratio sensors, they return an analog voltage proportional to the mixture. It provides for much finer control. The ECM therefore does much finer adjustments and you shouldn't see any switching back and forth.

For the upstream sensors, there are only two choices Toyota or Denso (Toyota part is made by Denso); the Denso part can be found for a few $$ cheaper ($125 ish on Amazon).

I know this isn't an Audi forum, but Audi recommends no more than 4/32 difference in tread on AWD cars. Also, in my experience, Discount Tire follows that rule and won't install a single tire with 3 worn ones on an AWD vehicle.

Interesting discussion; I once asked my Lexus stealer why they didn't include the spare in tire rotation and he just said they don't (no explanation). Perhaps this is why?

Begs the question of what to do when you get a flat (especially when tires are near end of life). Presumably it's a good idea to get the flat fixed quickly and don't do too many miles with the full diameter spare on one wheel.

In absence of any leads for an amp from any source other than the dealer, would it work to tie each respective speaker wire together and bypass the amp? I'm not sure how much power out the head unit has, but at least this would give me some speaker volume until I figure out what to do with the amp. Would this work or is the head unit too underpowered to drive the speakers directly?

I can't answer your question except that I doubt you would get much volume if any, the headunit probably only has a preamp in it.

Have you tried Crutchfield? They have a large array of aftermarket amps ranging from $80 to $1500; I have always found them to be helpful (although I've never bought an amp like this from them); I would open a chat with them to ask which would be the most direct replacement for the OEM amp.

(I have no affiliation with them, aside from being a satisfied customer).

I bought my 2009 Lexus ES 350 last week, and I have been poring over the users manual to no avail. I have the DVD Navigation system with a 6-disk changer. My questions is: Do I have a DVD changer where I can watch DVD's, or do I have a CD changer? If it's a CD changer, how can I update the maps if they are only on DVD? I have e-mailed and called the dealer to no avail. I guess after the sale, tehy are not interested anymore.

I tried to load a DVD, but did not get anything to come up on the screen, so that may answer my own question. However, if i don't have one, why did the options state it is a DVD Navigation system? Any help would be appreciated.

The DVD is in a separate (single) drive for the NAV. You have a CD changer.

I have a 2007 ES350 that needs a bank 1 sensor 1 oxygen sensor. Where is this sensor located and when I call an auto parts store what do I ask for? Every place I call wants to give my a different sensor and I don't want to get the wrong one.

Wouldn't this be covered under the warranty (or emissions warranty if you are out of bumper-bumper warranty)?

More importantly, perhaps, wouldn't doing this yourself void the emissions warranty?

I am in the process of replacing one on my RX which is out of emissions warranty (waiting for the part to arrive).

How to disconnect the bank1 (rear) air/fuel ratio sensor connector.

The connector? Not real easy on the rear one. My suggestion is to have a friend lean over the drivers fender and reach behind the engine and hold the wire loom just where the sensor lead plugs into it. That way you can reach one hand up and release the tab and pull the plug out of it's socket. I did it alone but it is not easy because you can only get one hand up there at a time.

Thanks for your help and suggestions; after a couple of hours of false starts and attempts at making custom tools, I finally managed it with the help of this grappler tool

(I recently bought it at Home Depot for something else). I attached the hooks to the sensor side of the plug; reached up with my left hand to press down the tab and jiggled the tool with my other hand. When I let go of the tab with my left hand, I didn't feel/hear the usual click so I was reasonably confident that the plug had moved enough so the latch didn't bite; I removed the grappler and I was easily able to remove the plug with my left hand. I was on a crawler with my head towards the front of the vehicle, which was on ramps with axle stands "just in case".

I put this much detail here so it might help someone else when searching for "rx300 how to disconnect rear af sensor connector"

Forget what you've been told about disc. the battery. The only reason to do it is if you don't have a scanner to cancel the codes. There is NO danger of the air bags going off unless you're working directly with them, and then you need to disc. the battery for a while to let the system completely drain of any latent energy. The only time I have EVER discon. the battery for SAFETY is when I was working DIRECTLY with the air bag system or air bags. Good Luck!

Thanks; I'll bear this in mind for the future. I ended up removing the battery anyway so I could get a clear shot to the front (Bank 2) sensor connector. I wanted a good understanding of the connector design before messing around in back.

The heater on the bank1 sensor is, indeed, open circuit; my 03 has 77k miles on it; seems a similar mileage to what many have experienced.

Next challenge is hoping the sensor is not seized; I put some WD40 on it and will probably let it set until the new one arrives.

Thanks for all the help here; I figure I saved myself a few hundred bucks (so long as I don't crack the manifold).

Thanks;

It does read manufacturer specific codes from my Ford, but you could be right.

I am going to get a real scan tool.

Thanks; I was going to check the heater resistance next; I put it up on ramps and am waiting for it to cool down.

How hard is it to get up there and disconnect the connector?

Do you really have to disconnect the battery? Everything I have read says you should do so, to avoid the risk of airbag deployment.

Seems overkill to me (and a pain to have to reset the radio, clock etc), and unplugging the sensor isolates it from the car's circuit.

Thanks.

I am getting a P0135 on my '03 RX300.

Everything I have read indicates a heater problem on the B1S1 AF Sensor.

However, it appears I should be getting a Lexus-specific P1135 instead of the SAE P0135.

(I am getting this code from a Davis CarChip in my OBD-II socket).

Anyone have any clues as to why I am seeing P0135 instead of P1135?

I plan to replace the AF sensor anyhow; just curious.

Thanks

Answering my own question: The upgrade from 2.1 to 6.1 went flawlessly; it didn't appear that any firmware update occurred at all. The hidden button dance still works.

I don't know about custom Lexus codes, but I have successfully diagnosed a coupled of minor "engine light" issues with a Davis CarChip (thermostat problem and emission problem that turned out to simply be a loose gas cap - no SS gas in NJ :( ). I have found that Google is your friend for diagnostic codes.

The CarChip is neat; monitors trips, flags hard accel, braking. Inexpensive too. Just connects to laptop and downloads info. Also has an option to turn off the engine light which I have used on my "other" car (Ford).

(I have no affiliation, just a satisfied customer).

I am thinking about upgrading my '03 RX300 Nav system from 2.1 to 6.1.

Can anyone here confirm that the RX300 version of the hidden button dance (Menu | System Option | hidden button sequence) is still available on 6.1 to override the navigate while driving lockout? I'd sure like to get upated maps and POIs but not at the expense of losing the ability for passenger control of nav while driving.

Thanks...