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Gruss

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Everything posted by Gruss

  1. Many thanks - saved me a bunch got a new mast/rack for $12 on ebay. My rack was snapped with one "loop" remaining in the holder. Would have taken me an hour but I had one problem - when feeding in the new rack, I hit a ledge or something and couldn't get it past. I took the motor unit out again and checked the "pipe" wasn't blocked. It wasn't. The only way I could thread the rack was to shave it to a point with a utility knife (just a quarter inch at the end). After wiggling, went in a treat. Thanks again. Here are a couple of pix that might help others...
  2. I don't know about the post-cat sensor but the upstream sensors are Air Fuel Ratio sensors, not "simple" O2 sensors. From my understanding (google) old style O2 sensors can tell if the ratio is "too rich" or "too lean"; hence they switch back and forth as the ECM changes the mixture. With A/F Ratio sensors, they return an analog voltage proportional to the mixture. It provides for much finer control. The ECM therefore does much finer adjustments and you shouldn't see any switching back and forth. For the upstream sensors, there are only two choices Toyota or Denso (Toyota part is made by Denso); the Denso part can be found for a few $$ cheaper ($125 ish on Amazon).
  3. Interesting discussion; I once asked my Lexus stealer why they didn't include the spare in tire rotation and he just said they don't (no explanation). Perhaps this is why? Begs the question of what to do when you get a flat (especially when tires are near end of life). Presumably it's a good idea to get the flat fixed quickly and don't do too many miles with the full diameter spare on one wheel.
  4. I can't answer your question except that I doubt you would get much volume if any, the headunit probably only has a preamp in it. Have you tried Crutchfield? They have a large array of aftermarket amps ranging from $80 to $1500; I have always found them to be helpful (although I've never bought an amp like this from them); I would open a chat with them to ask which would be the most direct replacement for the OEM amp. (I have no affiliation with them, aside from being a satisfied customer).
  5. The DVD is in a separate (single) drive for the NAV. You have a CD changer.
  6. Wouldn't this be covered under the warranty (or emissions warranty if you are out of bumper-bumper warranty)? More importantly, perhaps, wouldn't doing this yourself void the emissions warranty? I am in the process of replacing one on my RX which is out of emissions warranty (waiting for the part to arrive).
  7. How to disconnect the bank1 (rear) air/fuel ratio sensor connector.
  8. Thanks for your help and suggestions; after a couple of hours of false starts and attempts at making custom tools, I finally managed it with the help of this grappler tool (I recently bought it at Home Depot for something else). I attached the hooks to the sensor side of the plug; reached up with my left hand to press down the tab and jiggled the tool with my other hand. When I let go of the tab with my left hand, I didn't feel/hear the usual click so I was reasonably confident that the plug had moved enough so the latch didn't bite; I removed the grappler and I was easily able to remove the plug with my left hand. I was on a crawler with my head towards the front of the vehicle, which was on ramps with axle stands "just in case". I put this much detail here so it might help someone else when searching for "rx300 how to disconnect rear af sensor connector" Thanks; I'll bear this in mind for the future. I ended up removing the battery anyway so I could get a clear shot to the front (Bank 2) sensor connector. I wanted a good understanding of the connector design before messing around in back. The heater on the bank1 sensor is, indeed, open circuit; my 03 has 77k miles on it; seems a similar mileage to what many have experienced. Next challenge is hoping the sensor is not seized; I put some WD40 on it and will probably let it set until the new one arrives. Thanks for all the help here; I figure I saved myself a few hundred bucks (so long as I don't crack the manifold).
  9. Thanks; It does read manufacturer specific codes from my Ford, but you could be right. I am going to get a real scan tool.
  10. Thanks; I was going to check the heater resistance next; I put it up on ramps and am waiting for it to cool down. How hard is it to get up there and disconnect the connector? Do you really have to disconnect the battery? Everything I have read says you should do so, to avoid the risk of airbag deployment. Seems overkill to me (and a pain to have to reset the radio, clock etc), and unplugging the sensor isolates it from the car's circuit. Thanks.
  11. I am getting a P0135 on my '03 RX300. Everything I have read indicates a heater problem on the B1S1 AF Sensor. However, it appears I should be getting a Lexus-specific P1135 instead of the SAE P0135. (I am getting this code from a Davis CarChip in my OBD-II socket). Anyone have any clues as to why I am seeing P0135 instead of P1135? I plan to replace the AF sensor anyhow; just curious. Thanks
  12. Answering my own question: The upgrade from 2.1 to 6.1 went flawlessly; it didn't appear that any firmware update occurred at all. The hidden button dance still works.
  13. I don't know about custom Lexus codes, but I have successfully diagnosed a coupled of minor "engine light" issues with a Davis CarChip (thermostat problem and emission problem that turned out to simply be a loose gas cap - no SS gas in NJ :( ). I have found that Google is your friend for diagnostic codes. The CarChip is neat; monitors trips, flags hard accel, braking. Inexpensive too. Just connects to laptop and downloads info. Also has an option to turn off the engine light which I have used on my "other" car (Ford). (I have no affiliation, just a satisfied customer).
  14. I am thinking about upgrading my '03 RX300 Nav system from 2.1 to 6.1. Can anyone here confirm that the RX300 version of the hidden button dance (Menu | System Option | hidden button sequence) is still available on 6.1 to override the navigate while driving lockout? I'd sure like to get upated maps and POIs but not at the expense of losing the ability for passenger control of nav while driving. Thanks...
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