jragosta
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Posts posted by jragosta
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Run your finger nail over the scratch, if you can feel a bump/indention, they you can't buff it out.
Maybe file a claim on your insurance or ask a local lexus dealer on what they use to detail their cars.
I would recommend NOT going thru your insurance for something minor. Every claim raises your premiums. Even if you switch companies, they all share information and the additional costs will transfer with you.
Insurance should only be used in catastrophic incidents and accidents. The money you save by not having your premuiums raised will more than cover the cost of getting your scratch fixed.Plus, the longer you go without a claim can lower your premiums over time.
Sorry, but that is not good advice. I come from an insurance family and used to work in my father's insurance office.
If you were filing a collision claim, you do have to be concerned about rates being increased. This one would be a comprehensive claim - and there are generally no penalties for filing a comprehensive claim. In addition, most people have lower deductibles for comprehensive than for collision, so you probably won't be out as much.
I'd suggest calling your agent right away and ask them if there will be any consequences if you file the claim. I'll bet you there won't be -- and you can share half the insurance money with me as a reward.
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Very sorry to hear that it was totaled; sounded like you put a lot of work and time into it. :(
too bad that idiot didn't show himself like a man!
Why? The other driver wasn't at fault.
Granted, he should have stayed around as a witness and more importantly to see if anyone was hurt, but 'I didn't like the guy behind me driving too close' isn't an excuse for speeding through a stop sign at 30 mph and driving off the road.
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To see which allows more dirt to this; do an oil test. It will cost cout $70 but that is something to go by.
Do an oil test with an K&N and do another with the paper air filter you like. Look at Si levels and wear numbers.
Sorry, but that doesn't measure the filtration efficiency of the filter. Not to mention that it's nearly impossible to compare the test results (unless your driving is identical).
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I'm just going by my own personal experences (under the conditions I drive in here in Canada) I have had with the 3 cars I have put a K & N air filter in. Slightly increased throttle response, slightly better fuel economy (for all 3 vehicles) over the paper filters. B)
Look up "placebo effect".
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I've gotton over 500 miles (800 kms) several times when I switched from a new Lexus paper filter to a K & N........best I could do with a paper was 440 - 460 miles....I'm not convinced any damage is being done with the K & N filter. ;)
That doesn't mean that damage hasn't occurred. No one claimed that EVERY car would be damaged or that it would be damaged quickly. The K&N filter increases the risk of engine damage significantly, though.
As for the mileage, there's something else going on. An air filter doesn't restrict flow that much. Under identical test track conditions, there's no way that replacing the paper filter with K&N would increase mileage by 10%. It's just not going to happen. Something else changed (your driving conditions, speed, weather, something).
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so where does foam filter fall into place into all this. i heard its better then the rest but just needs to be replaced more often...?
Not according to the URLs above. It doesn't look like any of the tested filters beat a good quality pleated filter.
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Hello all,
I recently got a 1997 ES300...anyway I have been looking at these forums for about three days and have not found an answer...so my question is:
To replace the front and rear door speakers do I need a mounting bracket or spacer (or can I just drop some component speakers into the front and 3 ways into the back)?
If so, would this thing work: http://www.autotoys.com/x/catalog/525_or_6...TER_p_1570.html
If not, what would you suggest?
I have talked with the guys at crutchfield and they said that there is a 'mounting height restriction' for my door speakers which requires a mounting bracket but they don't stock one. Is this true?
Thanks for your help.
I don't know the answer, but I know what I'd do.
I wouldn't attempt any stereo modifications myself. It is critical to balance the speakers with the audio system if you want decent sound. That requires a competent audio shop - and they would be able to handle any spacer issues for you.
Good luck.
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When I was recommending filter media for R&D or production, I can't remember ever making a proposal based solely on the credentials of the filter guy. Oh well.
NO one asked you to.
I explained my credentials - and gave a detailed explanation of why these filters are no good in an earlier thread.
You have a choice of who to believe:
1. Someone who has filtration credentials and explains in detail why the filter is no good
or
2. Someone who doen't have any idea how filtration works, but thinks that they might see a 2% increase - but have no way to measure anything.
Interestingly, someone came up with the actual test data - and it confirmed the explanation I gave a long time ago. The K&N filters leak particles like crazy.
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Once again:
I'm happy that you don't think you've had any engine damage. First, I don't see how you can say that unless you've torn down the engine. Second, that's what's called an anecdotal data point.
Filtration companies test many, many samples of various filters using sophisticated test methods to determine how well they work. No one in their right mind would rely on a single test. And based on many thousands of man-years of testing experience in the filtration industry, I'm saying flat out that a K&N filter is not as good a choice as a standard OEM filter. Particles will bleed through and you also have to make sure you get exactly the right amount of oil on the filter.
You can be as happy as you want with your placebo filter. FROM A SCIENTIFIC PERSPECTIVE, it's a bad choice.
I would suggest that statements such as those above would require the presentation of some valid statistical data from a reliable and disinterested source.
I agree with jragosta statements! ;)
Thank you for saving me the time of looking these up.
Basically, the first article says that the K&N filter is going to allow all sorts of particles to get into your engine. Since the reason you want an air filter is to keep these particles out, that's not a good thing. Interestingly, it also says that the dirt holding capacity of the K&N is lower than OEM filters. K&N's site says it has a higher DHC. My guess is that K&N used coarser particles.
The second article was somewhat interesting. Based on K&N's web site and reports from various people, I expected that it would give higher air flow than an OEM filter - and therefore a slightly better horsepower. The tests reported here indicate that the K&N is no better than a high quality paper filter, but it is somewhat better than a cheapo paper filter. In any event, the difference is tiny.
Bottom line is that these tests confirm that any gains from using K&N are placebo effects. And you risk damaging your engine.
Again, thanks for digging up the references.
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Once again:
I'm happy that you don't think you've had any engine damage. First, I don't see how you can say that unless you've torn down the engine. Second, that's what's called an anecdotal data point.
Filtration companies test many, many samples of various filters using sophisticated test methods to determine how well they work. No one in their right mind would rely on a single test. And based on many thousands of man-years of testing experience in the filtration industry, I'm saying flat out that a K&N filter is not as good a choice as a standard OEM filter. Particles will bleed through and you also have to make sure you get exactly the right amount of oil on the filter.
You can be as happy as you want with your placebo filter. FROM A SCIENTIFIC PERSPECTIVE, it's a bad choice.
I would suggest that statements such as those above would require the presentation of some valid statistical data from a reliable and disinterested source.
I've already explained my credentials for making that statement PhD in chemistry and years running the R&D group of an industrial filtration company.
I've read the K&N site and reviewed the 'data' they presented there.
The design of the K&N filter is flawed for its intended purpose.
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I've never had any bad experences (bad sensors etc) with any K & N filter I have used.......also I have noticed my engine oil appears to stay cleaner longer than with conventional paper filters. I doubt any engine damage is or has occured since 2 trips to & from Florida, I got over 500 miles on a tank of gas on mor than 1 occasion. ;)
Once again:
I'm happy that you don't think you've had any engine damage. First, I don't see how you can say that unless you've torn down the engine. Second, that's what's called an anecdotal data point.
Filtration companies test many, many samples of various filters using sophisticated test methods to determine how well they work. No one in their right mind would rely on a single test. And based on many thousands of man-years of testing experience in the filtration industry, I'm saying flat out that a K&N filter is not as good a choice as a standard OEM filter. Particles will bleed through and you also have to make sure you get exactly the right amount of oil on the filter.
You can be as happy as you want with your placebo filter. FROM A SCIENTIFIC PERSPECTIVE, it's a bad choice.
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OK, then to cut this short.....you continue using your aftermarket filter, and I'll continue using an OEM filter. I sorta trust what the engineers at Toyota figured what would be the best balance in air filtration. :)
Dosen't Toyota (TRD) also offer a K & N type of re-usable air filter? B) ;) You can check it out at www.trdusa.com :whistles: Not sure of the prices however. ;)
That doesn't look like a Toyota filter. TRD appears to be a third party selling non-OEM parts.
From the racetrack to the street, Toyota Racing Development (TRD) U.S.A., Inc. plays a key role in providing Toyota with an enhanced performance image. A subsidiary of Toyota Motor Sales (TMS), U.S.A., Inc., TRD designs and builds Toyota racing engines in addition to building and marketing performance aftermarket parts for many Toyota vehicles.OK. My mistake. It IS a Toyota filter, but it's designed for racing, not for street use.
A filter designed for racing engines is not likely to be suitable for private use. You trade off particle retention with air flow. On a racing engine, air flow is much, much more important - since a few percent HP gain could make all the difference in the world. Also, the engine isn't likely to last long, so a small amount of extra particles might not matter as much.
For the home user, the opposite is true. Longer engine life is far, far more important than a couple percent more HP.
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OK, then to cut this short.....you continue using your aftermarket filter, and I'll continue using an OEM filter. I sorta trust what the engineers at Toyota figured what would be the best balance in air filtration. :)
Dosen't Toyota (TRD) also offer a K & N type of re-usable air filter? B) ;) You can check it out at www.trdusa.com :whistles: Not sure of the prices however. ;)
That doesn't look like a Toyota filter. TRD appears to be a third party selling non-OEM parts.
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Hello,
Is any filters (Toyota or After markets)mention how many micron bag(Paper) they use. Either your Delta P is small or big, MAF controls how much air needs to burns fuel correctly.
Please correct me if i am wrong.
Thanks,
Can you please write that in English?
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Any kind of filter creates a restriction to the flow of either air or liquids in a system, therefore a filter that creates less of a pressure drop will not filter as well.
When a filter is designed the amount of restriction is taken into consideration and other factors in this chain are adjusted to work in a satisfactory manner, ie: fuel - air mixture.
I would say, the more pressure drop, the more the filtration.
You'd be wrong.
There is a relationship between filtration efficiency and pressure drop but it's not anywhere near as simple as you're making it. It's also a time-dependent equation. Before trying to define the relationship, you need to consider:
1. Filter area
2. Fluid flow per unit area
3. Viscosity
4. Flter pore size distribution (a filter usually does not have a single pore size)
5. Contaminant particle size distribution
6. How heavily loaded the filter is (under some scenarios the pressure drop increases quickly, in others, the pressure drop increases slowy)
7. Time
8. Concentration of contamnants
And many more
Believe me - I use to do this for a living. Filtration is not as simple as everyone's trying to make it out to be.
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The statement is incorrect, but not exactly for the reason you stated. First, be careful not to confuse dirt holding capacity with filtration efficiency. They're very different concepts. That's one of the things K&N uses to mislead people.
There is a relationship between filtration efficiency and pressure drop, but it has a lot of other variables and is not something that can easily be used by the layman.
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I don;t think you iacv and tb problems where caused by the filter but the normal way the engien does it to everyone.
This is the kind of thing I mentioned in my earlier post.
While poor filtration most certainly CAN cause throttle body and IAC valve problems, when it happens, people who buy K&N tend to immediately blame something else.
Without extensive testing you can't say for sure that the filter caused the problem, but it's equally foolish to just assume that it didn't - particularly when the failures happened shortly after installing K&N filters.
Toyota spends billions of dollars on car design - including things like filtration. Stick with what the manufacturer recommends.
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Hello,
I just ordered K & N filter from O' reaily for $44.00.
Will I see any improvements in performance?
Thanks,
This has been discussed ad nauseum. To summarize:
1. K&N filters require maintenance - cleaning and oiling them. A little too much oil and you can damage your engine. A little too low and you will not be getting good filtration - and risk damaging your engine.
2. K&N makes claims that their filter is 'better' than OEM filters. Unfortunately, the test they're using is the wrong test. They measure dirt holding capacity - which is rarely an issue. They specifically fail to measure filtration efficiency as a function of particle size. By its nature, the K&N filter is likely to allow many small particles to get through.
3. In principle, a K&N filter will give you less pressure drop and therefore more air flow into the engine. That allows your engine computer to use more fuel to maintain the same ratio when you really need the power. You can therefore expect SOME increase in horsepower. However, unless you're on a drag strip using a digital timer, you won't notice it. In real life, the difference is miniscule.
4. Replacing OEM filters on a normal replacement schedule isn't that expensive.
5. If you are living in very dusty conditions where you'd have to replace OEM filters more frequently, it might be tempting to use K&N for cost savings - but don't. Those are precisely the conditions where you don't want particles getting past the air filter.
Bottom line is that I would never do it. The benefit is tiny and you run the risk of ruining your engine. I realize that lots of people will tell you that they've been using K&N for years with no problems. The difficulty is that you'll rarely hear from the ones who ruined their engine to save $10. Also, the damage is likely to be long term. I would never expect a catastropic failure. Rather, you'd expect an engine to last 150 K instead of 200 K miles (or whatever). If the engine fails early, no one blames the air filter.
My credentials on filtration? Doctorate in chemistry and 7 years as VP of Technology for a filtration company.
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This is a follow up to an earlier question I had. Here's the background:
Had the CEL (flashing) & Trac off lights come on with multiple codes for O2 sensors and random cylinder misfiring.
I replaced the O2 sensors and reset the trouble codes, thinking possibly a bad signal from the sensors were causing the misfire (now I think it was probably just the opposite). Yesterday the CEL only came on flashing again and the code showed only cylinder 6 misfiring. I had a post yesterday asking the orientation of the cylinders as I guessed it was either a bad coil or plug.
Started the car this morning and the flashing CEL and the Trac off light came back on. Trouble codes now showing misfiring on cylinders 5 & 6. By the way, it is misfiring at idle and all speeds. Car has 95K miles and original plugs and wires.
As there is a separate coil for each cylinder, I am guessing that it is not the plugs or the coils?? (although the plugs are due) Reviewing the forums I have seen some suggestions that the cylinder head water temperature sensor may cause misfire problems, however it wasn't clear if there were separate sensors for each pair of cylinders or not? To be honest, I am not even sure what the or those sensors look like or where they are located. I have been fortunate not to have any problems with the car until recently so I just learning my way around this engine.
Can anyone let me know if I am on the right track or suggest another possible problem. If I am on the right track I would appreciate some info on the temp sensors.
Well, since you're due for plugs and wires, anyway, that's where I'd start.
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I'll have to call my service tech and see what they say about it...
Please let us know.
I'm not due for routine service for a couple thousand miles, but if they really have a fix, I'll take the car in now.
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1. check alldata for any reported TSBs. www.alldata.com
nothing significant that the dealers have got a fix for.
2. if you are looking for a sports sedan keep looking. if you are looking for an ultra quiet luxury sedan at an economical price then look no farther.
3. depending on who you talk to the tranny issue is and is not a problem. you would have to drive a demo for yourself for a weekend to make any kind or judgement. Read the "stupid tranny thread" that is pinned above.
steviej
The problem is that the tranny problem won't always show up in a test drive - even if you drive it for a while. The transmission learns your driving style. My car didn't start to act up for several weeks after I bought it.
I am recommending to everyone I know that they NOT buy a Lexus. Not only does the car shift like a wheezing Yugo, Lexus' handling of the problem stinks. Instead of being honest, they pull stuff like 'the car works as designed'. Right. They designed the car to have a 2 second lag when you step on the gas.
I might have even let that go, but they did the same thing with my memory seat. The seat doesn't return to where I set it - it stops about an inch or so away. Again, instead of either fixing it or saying that there's some variability allowed for engineering reasons, they say that they designed it that way.
Basically, any problem with the car will be YOUR problem because Lexus will never admit that they have a problem.
As much as I love my Lexus other than the transmission issue, I'd suggest looking elsewhere.
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lol,yea SK you mention it on every topic i put up
well spark plugs where never changed but my dad said to not touch them or else you will run into big engine problems as soon as you replace them. How often do they need to be replaced? My dad is a really good mechanic but that was back in RUSSIA(country where he was born) where cars are different,so even though he can fix cars good alot of experiences and stuff he bases his knowledge off of is on way different cars. So thats why im asking you guys.
Sorry, your dad doesn't know what he's talking about.
Replacing the plugs won't cause any problems - unless you do the job wrong.
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haha,yea. so where on my car can i check the tranny fluid?? i think i shouldnt have it filled with synthetic considering my car is old so it might have leaks or something that synthetic will creap through.
so ure telling me i have to fully replace the tranny oil TWICE? how much will that be with regular tranny oil...
im sorry for soudning so clueless,i know how to repair cars and work on them and install stuff but when it comes to things liek that that i havent done yet im clueless:)
Something doesn't add up. You say you can work on cars and repair them but don't know how to check the transmission fluid? Hmmmm....
Open your owner's manual. Read the section about maintenance. That will tell you what needs to be done and how frequently. It will tell you how to do all the common checks like checking the transmission fluid.
Given what you've written here, I'd suggest finding a mechanic to do the work. If you must do it yourself, you can probably pick up the shop manual somewhere (I know you can buy it from Lexus if you want) to explain how to do all the repair and maintenance items.
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hmm where can i get it?? o is this a common problem?
i mean my car has been taken care of good since we got it at liek 45K but not alot of preventanance maintanance was ever done.
That's an inconsitent statement. If you're not doing preventive maintenance, the car's not being well taken care of.
I would suggest that you check your manual to see all the things that require routine maintenance and get caught up as quickly as you can - or you're likely to experience some more expensive problems.
Someone Keyed My Wife's Es330!
in 92 - 06 Lexus ES250/300/330
Posted
For vandalism, your experience is going to be almost universal. Filing a claim for vandalism will not increase your premiums anywhere that I'm aware of.
However, be careful about hit and run. In some circumstances, a hit and run COULD increase your premiums. Not always, and not everywhere, but it can happen - particularly if it happens more than once. Best advice is to always call your agent to ask.