Jump to content

wrpsuite

Regular Member
  • Posts

    79
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by wrpsuite

  1. mine only does it when i don't put it in the garage at night and it goes below 35 F . It usually flickers and comes on within 5 minutes though. Mine has been garage kept since it was new and very rarely spends the night outside anywhere, usually a hotel parking lot or family vacation where no garage is available. My gas gauge hasn't worked for year so I just use on of the trip meter and usually get at least 350-375 before the light comes on which is pretty relaible. I'm really starting to consider selling mine (94 w/ 199k) but still not sure why. I've been avoiding test driving the new 350 since I'm pretty confident I'd take it and leave my baby there, which could break my heart...

  2. 94 LS 400 198k miles, it ran prety good prior to seafoam but noticabely better afterwards. Very smooth. If you seard haround there is a thread withphotos, it's very simple though. Beneath where you add brake fluid it's the lower hose that runs into the intake, when you remove it you'll fell the suction...
    So I unhooked the brake booster vacuum and with car running put the hose in a cup with 1/2 can of sefoam and it drank it all and stalled... I let it sit for the prescribed 10 minutes and re-attached hose and fired it up. At first no smoke and then thank god the wind was blowing away from the house. I revved the motor gently until it ran smooth and then revved the heck out of it for another 3-5 minutes until all thesmoke cleared. By the end it was like revving a hot rod near red line. No sputter, knocks anythin, just pure Lexus smoothness.. At 198k that is impressive. one observation a bunch or "water" came out of theexhauseonto the driveway during this process... I'll dump the rest of the can in the gas tank on my next fillup and report back with a road test in couple days.. easy as pie!

    Model?

    Year?

    Please post a pic of the line and its location if you are able. Thanks.

  3. 94 LS 400 198k miles, it ran prety good prior to seafoam but noticabely better afterwards. Very smooth. If you seard haround there is a thread withphotos, it's very simple though. Beneath where you add brake fluid it's the lower hose that runs into the intake, when you remove it you'll fell the suction...

    So I unhooked the brake booster vacuum and with car running put the hose in a cup with 1/2 can of sefoam and it drank it all and stalled... I let it sit for the prescribed 10 minutes and re-attached hose and fired it up. At first no smoke and then thank god the wind was blowing away from the house. I revved the motor gently until it ran smooth and then revved the heck out of it for another 3-5 minutes until all thesmoke cleared. By the end it was like revving a hot rod near red line. No sputter, knocks anythin, just pure Lexus smoothness.. At 198k that is impressive. one observation a bunch or "water" came out of theexhauseonto the driveway during this process... I'll dump the rest of the can in the gas tank on my next fillup and report back with a road test in couple days.. easy as pie!

    Model?

    Year?

    Please post a pic of the line and its location if you are able. Thanks.

  4. If there was something on our LS' s that you would complain about or have designed differently what would it be? Lets keep in mind the technology that was available when the car was designed and that even by todays standard these are someof the most outstanding autos ever produced...

    so this is real nitpicking...

    I'll start:

    1. When you turn on the radio that obnoxious static until the antenna is fully extended. Surely they could have put a delay on the radio.

  5. So I unhooked the brake booster vacuum and with car running put the hose in a cup with 1/2 can of sefoam and it drank it all and stalled... I let it sit for the prescribed 10 minutes and re-attached hose and fired it up. At first no smoke and then thank god the wind was blowing away from the house. I revved the motor gently until it ran smooth and then revved the heck out of it for another 3-5 minutes until all thesmoke cleared. By the end it was like revving a hot rod near red line. No sputter, knocks anythin, just pure Lexus smoothness.. At 198k that is impressive. one observation a bunch or "water" came out of theexhauseonto the driveway during this process... I'll dump the rest of the can in the gas tank on my next fillup and report back with a road test in couple days.. easy as pie!

  6. I could use the plastic stone guard from under the motor area and Drivers door handle, especially if it's white? Both light parts and easy shipping, letme know. Thanks

    I have a 1991 LS400 that I am parting out. Roof was damaged but other than that everything is available. I live in Southern California. Thanks.

    I need a Pioneer 6-CD changer for my 92 LS400. I am in Alhambra, Email me octoberscorpion at hotmail. I would like to take a look if it is possible...for other parts

  7. run the fuel down as low as you possibly can and dump 2 bottles of isopropyl (rubbing) alchohol in the tank and got ot the emissions station ,I'll be you pass and no damage to the car. It's an old trick that worked for me a few years back with a different car...

    post-53431-1193448375_thumb.jpgMy 91 LS400 has 119K miles and seems to be doing fine--passed inspection in June. Of course, I will be watching now. May try a few more full throttle accelerations just to keep things clean. Good info in this thread!
  8. I'm still waiting for a call back, I'll keep you posted.. Where did you get your fixedunderwarranty anddid you have to call customer satisfaction fo did the dealer just handle it?thanks

    They fixed my 96 LS400 with 140K miles. They wrote "warranty" on the bill and I pay nothing.
    I have the same problem with my 95 LS. I am waiting to hear how it turn out before making the call myself. Please post as soon as you have an answer. Thanks

  9. I was noticing my hood bouncing a bit while at high speen and upon investigation the plastic shroud is missing. I'm going to get one right away. Anyone haveonelaying around or a line on a junk yard with one? thanks

    mine has gone too before i started being the owner.

    its cheap here (VN) to get the undercover made by a local bodyshop (of course made by metal, not plastic)

    am just wondering if it is really beneficial to have the new undercover?? will it really reduce some road noise beside its known purpose of engine dust protection. anybody and prove it?

    gha_vn, you probably hear more noise if it is made by metal because with all the rocks and debris on the roads in VN ...

  10. I spoke to a very nice lady and she said that my local rep who deals withthelocal dealer would call me within 48 hours.. sounds promising but we'll see... I know some other companies cover seatbelts for life and would think Lexus would not want bad press if something were to happen to an owner.... I'll keep you posted...

    what number did you call, my dealer laughed when I asked if replacement would be free!
    Thank you dashan, let me try calling the dealer to see if they will replace it for free.

    i called today about my 94' and they said it was only covered for 8 year or 80 thousand miles. So they wouldnt do it for free.

    I am having the same problem with my 94. I just found this info, and it is too early to call (9am east coast ) , but here you go:

    Customer Satisfaction Department

    Mail Drop L203, 19001 South Western Ave

    Torrance, CA 90509-2732

    Toll free: 1-800-25 LEXUS

    Fax: Fax: 310-468-2992

    I hope they take care of us!!

    This should help. :cheers:

  11. what number did you call, my dealer laughed when I asked if replacement would be free!

    Thank you dashan, let me try calling the dealer to see if they will replace it for free.

    i called today about my 94' and they said it was only covered for 8 year or 80 thousand miles. So they wouldnt do it for free.

  12. mine is cracked on the outside right next to the hing part....

    i notice the glue on one of the outer handle support, mine is broken exactly at the same point waiting for fix. is your pix means anything else or common issue?

    That's what I was trying to fix...just that.

    It does take alot of stress at that place, so if you try the fix, be sure to use a very strong epoxy or something.

    I don't think the metal is weldable, but I'm not positive about that.

    Joe

  13. Replaced the timing belt last week with the help of a mechanic friend and his tools. Basically I did all the (physical) work and when I got stuck or something technical needed to be done I asked for help. It took almost 12 hours with lunch and some waiting around but saved major bucks and no leaks or extra bolts.

    anyway the cooling fan is constantly on and I don't remember if this was always the case, any insight is appreciated....

  14. HAD THE SAME ISSUE WITH MINE. THIS MAY SOUND STRANGE BUT IF YOU ARE USING THE CIGARETTE CHARGER FOR YOUR PHONE OR SOME DEVICE TRY NOT USING IT FOR A FEW DAYS AND YOU'LL SEE THE TRAC LIGHT GO AWAY..... I USE THE REAr ONE NOW AND HAVEN'T SEEN THE LIGHT IN MONTHS, EXCEPT WHEN A FREIND PLUGGED HIS PHONE IN ONE TIME RECENTLY....sorry about the caps

    Hi All -- I am driving a '94 LS400 and the trac light stays on almost all the time. I was told the codes are showing an ABS system controller 'acting up' and was quoted 2 grand plus to replace it -- $1900 for the part and $450 for labor. Well, I am not at all interested in spending that unless it's absoutely necessary for car functioning. I drive around town mostly, at fairly lows speeds (40 tops), and once in a blue moon hit the freeway for a jaunt out to Malibu, or to Orange County, etc. Can I just ignore this problem? One of the mechanics i spoke with said to ignore it until the light stays on ALL the time, and what will eventually happen is that I will find it harder and harder to accelerate, then when the controller goes out, I won't be able to drive the car at all. Others have said in these forums to just ignore it, but if my car is going to eventually quit on me, isn't this something i have to fix? Even if this forum consensus says I have to fix this, I will go the reman route or get that part deep discount online. I have plenty of sources and know that I can vastly improve upon that quote of $1900 for the part (alone). Also, does $450 in labor make any sense? I thought the controller was a computer CHIP that you pull out and pop a new one in -- kind of like changing a fuse. I thought I read that somewhere. Is there more to it than this? If not, how does changing a fuse add up to :whistles: :whistles: that much labor? Thanks to all!!! Great forum.
×
×
  • Create New...

Forums


News


Membership