mebush

Also check the throttle position sensor and wires leading to it. I had problems there after changing a starter--could wiggle it around and make the car smooth out or die depending on how much I wiggled it. Replaced tps and solved problem.

Blake918 is right--the current mpg function bounces all over the place because it is not any kind of average. It is the MPG at that second. It may seem pretty constant if you were driving on a really flat road with the cruise on but say you are traveling at highway speed down a hill--let completely off the gas and it will shoot up to 99.9. Accelerate up the next hill it may read 4.

Check the connection to your throttle position sensor-- I had the same problem

I will agree with you that the service manager could have handled the decision of his technician better, and related it in a more professional manner to the customer. Obviously the OP is concerned with the condition and reliability of his car, and has every right to be.

We may be down to semantics. The aspects which are maintenance, and those that are repairs, may be the sticking point. Certainly I am guilty of making statements to customers - sometimes forcefully - for the need for maintenance, and the horrors that follow from not observing correct intervals ( an intermittently sticking turbocharger comes to mind - it would stop and then turn due to the condition of the engine oil - and the customer never did allow me to service the engine properly as he just wanted brakes done ) and then those things which are replaced only when they fail, or shown signs of incipient failure.

I'm confident that the OP got good service, but was treated on an inter-personal level a bit dismissively. I see that now.

I see the point you are trying to make about honest business, but as an example everywhere on this and other forums it is almost universally recommended to change water pump, idlers, etc. when a timing belt is changed since all the "work" has been done to get to that point. Is this not the same thing? A similar thing happened to me on my Ford Expedition (150,00 miles). I had leaking rear wheel seals and asked them to replace the bearings too since they where right there. Another $50 to a $400 dollar job. Went to pick up the vehicle and they "inspected" them and didn't replace. So now if they fail I'm out another $450 dollars instead of the $50. Plus I specifically said "replace" not "inspect". It was even written on the service order. The mechanic should have advised but the decision is up to the owner.

dcfish---thanks for the site. Looks promising.

As long as the rear tires will hold air you can have it towed to the nearest scrap metal yard. They usually pay well over what the towing bill is.

If I were planning to scrap it I wouldn't be looking for parts now would I..................................

Greetings all,

I have a '91 ls 400 that met the rear end of a Suburban. Am having trouble finding structural parts such as the upper radiator support. Any suggestions? Also if anyone had a white hood and fenders in good shape I would be very interested. I am trying to put the car back together for the grocery getter since I bought a '99 with 36,000 miles on it as a replacement and cringe at the thought of it sitting in a Walmart parking lot.

Either door, one turn unlocks all. However, if unlocked from driver's door the alarm goes off when you open it.

I have a '91 LS 400 with minor but inconvenient dilema. I have both the keyless entry master key and a manual master key (not a valet key). The problem is that to unlock the car manually with either key they must be used in the passenger door. If unlocked from the driver's door the alarm goes off. Any ideas????