mebush

Also check the throttle position sensor and wires leading to it. I had problems there after changing a starter--could wiggle it around and make the car smooth out or die depending on how much I wiggled it. Replaced tps and solved problem.

Blake918 is right--the current mpg function bounces all over the place because it is not any kind of average. It is the MPG at that second. It may seem pretty constant if you were driving on a really flat road with the cruise on but say you are traveling at highway speed down a hill--let completely off the gas and it will shoot up to 99.9. Accelerate up the next hill it may read 4.

Check the connection to your throttle position sensor-- I had the same problem

I see the point you are trying to make about honest business, but as an example everywhere on this and other forums it is almost universally recommended to change water pump, idlers, etc. when a timing belt is changed since all the "work" has been done to get to that point. Is this not the same thing? A similar thing happened to me on my Ford Expedition (150,00 miles). I had leaking rear wheel seals and asked them to replace the bearings too since they where right there. Another $50 to a $400 dollar job. Went to pick up the vehicle and they "inspected" them and didn't replace. So now if they fail I'm out another $450 dollars instead of the $50. Plus I specifically said "replace" not "inspect". It was even written on the service order. The mechanic should have advised but the decision is up to the owner.

dcfish---thanks for the site. Looks promising.

If I were planning to scrap it I wouldn't be looking for parts now would I..................................

Greetings all, I have a '91 ls 400 that met the rear end of a Suburban. Am having trouble finding structural parts such as the upper radiator support. Any suggestions? Also if anyone had a white hood and fenders in good shape I would be very interested. I am trying to put the car back together for the grocery getter since I bought a '99 with 36,000 miles on it as a replacement and cringe at the thought of it sitting in a Walmart parking lot.

Either door, one turn unlocks all. However, if unlocked from driver's door the alarm goes off when you open it.

I have a '91 LS 400 with minor but inconvenient dilema. I have both the keyless entry master key and a manual master key (not a valet key). The problem is that to unlock the car manually with either key they must be used in the passenger door. If unlocked from the driver's door the alarm goes off. Any ideas????