CrunchySkippy

I'm assuming that when you say "activate" you are performing both the "on" and the "set" tasks, right? If so I would check for a burnt fuse. Good luck.

I've had similar incidents happen over the years. If I recall correctly, I think it happens when I pushed the "on/off" button prior to putting the car in park. I would then have to press the "on/off" button 2 or 3 more times to cycle through to "off". I seem to recall something similar when I open my driver side door prior to pushing the "on/off" button.

Maybe you're doing the same thing? At the very least, the next time it happens - try cycling through the On/ACC/Off states. Good luck.

While I agree with the above tire suggestion (also try rotating tires front to back to see if vibration persists), It is probably worth lifting the front end and checking your steering/suspension components for wear or looseness. Obviously the front end lifts under acceleration and squats under deceleration which may explain the different times you experience the vibration (or at least the worst of it).

Vibrations can be difficult to identify in person, let alone over the internet. Good luck.

Did you check the gap of the plugs before you installed them? Even factory set plugs need to be verified. Simply dropping them could affect the gap.

Stranger things have happened...so you never know. Maybe one was plug had an incorrect gap (too small) and the ECU is compensating the incomplete fuel burn by retarding the timing. I'm just thinking out loud here.

Good luck.

I see over 100 people have viewed this post and nobody has responded. Is that because everyone thinks it was generated by a spam-bot?

I keep picturing the Tron cycles when I read the 30-50 mph 90 degree turns...

I work in Tysons and took my car to the Toyota in Tysons (Koons) for the routine service. It's been years since my 10k service, but I believe it was less than $100 there. I could never justify driving all the way out to Chantilly - especially at 3x the cost. Just take a copy of the 10k mile service items in for them to confirm they will perform them (if you're worried).

Good luck.

Try the "Buy and Sell" forum here:

http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index.php?showforum=17

Does your other key fob start the car?

I purchased my 07 in November of 06 as well, and my battery still cranks good too. I usually start to pay attention in cold weather after about 4 years for hints of impending failure.

Rafiki - you don't have a maintenance free battery?

In my city the octane doesn't come in 91, but 89 and 93. My TSX required 91 and I used 89 and it was fine. If I had the 350 I would use the 93 but I don't think its necessary with the 250.

It doesn't really make that much of an impact to every-day driving - unless you drive hard. The Engine Management System (knock sensor) will detect pre-ignition (detonation) under load and simply !Removed! the timing. This does equate to less than optimal power and torque from your engine. It could be argued that the 250 probably needs it more than the 350...

But I agree with the previous poster - the price difference is rather minimal over the course of a year. I only have 87, 89, and 93 here in Washington DC too and have defaulted to 93 for my 250.

You're right, the magical "power mode" button does not add 102 HP. I believe your salesman was invoking the "say anything to close a sale" technique. In my oppinion the button simply makes the accelerator more sensitive (among other things like higher shift points, etc).

I would say drive the 250 and see if it meets your needs. If it does, great. If it doesn't, then hold out for a 350. It sounds like you've already made up your mind as to what you want. Don't settle for something you don't.

If you've got some time to kill, go to the Lexus dealer and test drive a new 350. That will give you something to compare to the used 250's.

Good luck.

The right car for anyone is the car they really like. It sounds like you really like the S4, so congrats on the new car.

Also, great comment about the "suggestion" of the paddle shifts on the IS!

Just curious...why is this thread a "sticky"?

This is the car I wanted 4 years ago! What was the cause of the delay, the transfer case not being able to handle 300 hp?

I've always heard that it is better to fill the tank when it is at half way, rather than to let it pull all the way down before refilling.

The theory behind that is that any sediment in the tank/gas will sink to the bottom, and the fuel pickup will start to pick up the crud as the fuel level gets to the bottom. This sediment would eventually clog your fuel filter. Another theory is that the fuel helps keep the electric fuel pump from over heating (in cars where the fuel pump is submerged in the gas tank).

I've always driven my vehicles to almost Empty and have not had an issue with clogged fuel filters or a burned out fuel pump. Your mileage may vary though. I believe the fuel quality control programs have improved greatly over the years, as well as improved gas tank materials.

But as I'm typing I realize that I'm not sure what our tanks are actualy made out of. Composite/plastic perhaps...anyone know?

An engine with compression problems most likely is not going to lose compression in all cylinders at the same rate.

I agree. What would concern me is if one cylinder wasn't consistent with the others.

The difference with your engine showing lower than spec compression might be as easy as the tech not being able to find the exact TDC in each cylinder. Its not an exact science without pulling the heads, inserting a dial indicator, placing a degree wheel on the balancer, replacing the heads and measuring compression. A piston stop is what I would use in my garage, but its not 100% accurate.

I think there is some sort of sensor. Just a few weeks ago I had a piece of ice/snow packed into the top of the window track by the driver side mirror. Just as the window was closing, it hit the resistance and rolled all the way back down. I cleared the ice and the problem was solved.

What I'm not sure is whether this is a feature to keep fingers/etc from getting dismembered, or if it is more of a protection feature for the equipment (for example: keeping the motor from burning out or window from shattering).

I just thought I'd share that experience. I will not be volunteering my fingers for further testing...

Maybe even go out and practice putting the car in neutral as well. Maybe this should be part of our driving "experience" no matter what the cause of the acceleration problems is.

In my opinion, this cannot be stressed enough. In the event of an emergency, you'll want to have already walked though the drill (at least once) so that your brain knows its an option. We shouldn't fool ourselves into believing we'll be able to think clearly if our car suddently hits WOT.

However unlikely, it may be worth a quick check to be sure that your center a/c vents are not pointed straight up towards the rear view mirror. Perhaps it is simply wind noise from the vent. And then again, maybe not...

I remember the person in one of these threads who was talking about his friend whose car accelerated into a building, and the mats were to blame but he insisted it was sudden acceleration, and we were all telling him it was driver error??????? Hmmmmm......

My first reaction as well. This is the thread you're remembering: http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...showtopic=56647

At any rate it never did prevent me from starting the engine.

It did not prevent the original poster from starting the vehicle either. That's what makes me believe it was a result of simply depressing the brake after the engine was turned off.

We may never know since the J Jones has since gone silent...

I'm so used to a 4 door IS that the 2 door makes me do a double-take!

Just to check my own curiosity, I went out to my car, pumped the brakes like 15 or 20 times, and yes, it got a bit firmer, but was still able to move the brake pedal about 2-3 inches with little more then the weight of my foot, and started the car with no problem. I did it several times with varying amounts of brake pumping and they all equalled the same result.

Its hard to say.

J Jones' may be describing "very hard" because it is unusual for him/her to have to apply more effort than usual. Your description of the same event may be significantly different ("weight of my foot"). Or maybe the difference is the sublte nuances of a vehicle build from the factory, where your brake pedal push rod may be adjusted to have more leverage than J Jones. On the same note it could be difference of the adjustment of the safety switch. I can only speculate on the cause, but the symptoms sound like a text book loss of vacuum.

Regardless, 15-20 times is significant and I'm quite surprised. Were you pushing slowly all the way down until the stopping point and then fully releasing, or merely quick pumping? (I realize I may have used the wrong terminology above.)

Sewell Lexus sells them for $200

Shhh. Some folks got their undies all in a wad a whle back when I mentioned Sewell.

:D :D :lol:

Why would the folks get upset?

You are somehow losing vacuum in your brake booster. Generally, you can get one or two assisted pushes after the engine is off. Most likely, you are shutting off your car and continuing to depress the brake pedal (consciously or unconsciously). Therefore there is no vaccum left to assist the brake being pushed when you go to restart the vehicle.

For anyone else that would like to experience what I believe J Jones is describing, simply turn off your car and pump your brake pedal. You will note it gets more and more difficult until all of the vacuum assist is depleted. You can and will be able to start your car by FIRMLY depressing the brake pedal.

Let us know if this helps.