jjewell

hey guys i have a 1999 ES300 i buy some throttle body cleaner from Walmart 3.40$ by CRC

Warm the car up open the air intake the rubber connectors going from the air filter be careful if you remove them completely the car will get too rich a supply of air and die

from a small opening put the spray in and shoot as much as you want i finish the whole can in it

now when you are spraying it in, the car again gets a rich supply of cleaning spray alchol ethanol etc so u have to give the car a tad bit more acceleration so it doent die

finish the can and it should help

in the 1999 you have the throtle body intake divided into two so you can take turns spraying in each one

cool, as long as it is "sensor friendly".

I got a stock radio/cd player to swap out my non cd stock radio. Connectors are different & fsm shows a separate amplifier. Has anyone done this swap out? Is there any connectors out there that can make this work?

bump- c'mon, somebody? :cries:

I got a stock radio/cd player to swap out my non cd stock radio. Connectors are different & fsm shows a separate amplifier. Has anyone done this swap out? Is there any connectors out there that can make this work?

While replacing the transmission engine mount I realized a boot that goes into the engine from the wheel is cracked, I believe it is from the left axle into the engine side cv joint boot. IS this something I can fix and replace myself ?

Do a search. :chairshot:

I did mine a short while back. Engine was cold & very little (less than an ounce) actually came out. But plugging the line as mentioned above should eliminate much of a "mess".

Agree with above. Also check for corrosion in the socket & clean up contacts if needed.

i have a 96 es 300.. during the daytime everything looks fine.

night time, turn the headlights on:

the taillight indicator comes on, and stays on. verified that one light is out on the driver-side assembly. I assumed it needed another bulb.. then noticed the bulb actually turns on when the brakes are pressed.

any ideas? i took a look at the bulbs, and everyone of them work, except for that one. but it would work when you hit the brakes..

btw, i searched and couldn't find a similar topic. thanks for any assistance.

dual element bulbs? 1 element in bulb for brakes, one for turn signals. Pull out bulb & ck elements with a meter OR take it to yer local parts house & they'll test it fer ya. ;)

what kind of bushings are these exacly....i have the same problem

The rear stabilizer (sway) bar bushings. There are 2 of them. If yer gonna do it, do the 2 end links too. B)

What is an "endlink"?

They are a dogbone shaped piece about 4" long with ball joints on either end. One end to the end of the sway bar & the other end to the strut. I did the test mentioned in the FSM for testing torque on the end link joints and all of them were loose & worn out. Tight, smooth & quiet now!

would camry ones work?

The local toyota stealership said I had to get em @ Lexus. $23 for 2 rubber bushings!

Ah well, at least it's fixed!

what kind of bushings are these exacly....i have the same problem

The rear stabilizer (sway) bar bushings. There are 2 of them. If yer gonna do it, do the 2 end links too. B)

oh yea, replaced the sway bar end links & bushings. Got the end links (both) off ebay cheaper than one priced high @ stealership. Had to get the bushings @ stealership though. 45 minutes, drive test & no more noise!

After doing above, you may want to check compression on that bank when the engine is hot & again when its cold. A friend of mine had a misfire code & it ended up being a crack in the head between the valves.

k since i cant get the fsm to work still i am needing to know how to remove the passenger axle from the rear mount bracket? do i simply unbolt the 5/6 bolts from differential? or what. i have removed the bolt under the rear mount bracket, but dont know where to go from here. from there i can try to press out the mount myself(doubtful) or take it to get pressed out. btw, is there a certain way that the mount goes in?

Did you try the winzip.com utility download to decompress the fsm download? You will need Adobe Acrobat to then read the uncomressed FSM's.

it is a 97, but where do i dl fsm at? bcus the sticky up top i cant unzip it bcus it says unknown compression method?

I had the same problem when I downloaded it too. Go to winzip.com & download the newest version. It's free & it will work on the files.

Hello everyone. New the the forum. Already read lots of posts. Glad I found you guys.

I have a 96 ES300 with 177k.

Everytime I shut one of the doors my hood rattles. When the hood it shut all of the way it looks like it's aligned well with the rest of the body. But, if I grab the grill I can still shake the hood up and down a little. So there's some play and obviously that is why it's rattling.

Is there a way to eliminate the play and the rattle?

thanks.

my hood does the lame thing per say. There is slack or tolerance in the hitch. Try adjusting it if you can.

If it rattles is it metal to metal. I would lube up the latch with spray grease and maybe check to see if you have rubber bumbers on the hood area.

Oh, Welcome to LOC!

I think mburnicas is on to something. Check if the rubber bumpers on either side of the underhood area are 1) still there and 2) if they are mounted on a stud that is adjustable. If so' adjust them up so they better support the hood (force from underneath the hood "up") while still keeping the alignment with the rest of the body. Between adjusting those & the stationary hitch hopefully it'll tighten things up!

Hope that helps & welcome!!!

well i finally figured it out. I guess it must have been a darn coincidence but it was infact that something had gotten loose. On both sides, on the same day. The rod which inserts into the outside doorlatch had come out on both sides. The problem was a small plastic clip which keeps the rod in place. They had broke on both sides and so the rods were just hanging there out of place. We had to remove both door panels, found clips from a junk yard and had to put the rods back in place. Doors r working fine now. Thankz for all the help.

Randy Barreto

Glad to hear it worked out. Sometimes these "odd" occurences require "exploratory surgery"! ;)

I have yet to figure out why my driver side door won't open from either side. You can hear movement of the lock inside the door when you turn the key one way or the other, but the door just won't open. Any help would be great, and if the removal of the door is necessary, please advise on how to open the door when you can't access the screws that are on the sides of the door. Thanks in advance.

benes300

Without knowing what year it is......

Is the door in a "locked" state? If so , can you get a grip on the popup lock knob & pull it up to unlock it?

Try downloading the FSM for ES model thats stickied at the top of the forum page (Thanks again to our friend Santarme!). The body volume gives good pictures of the inside of the door.

Maybe a slimjim would work if you could "hook" onto and push/pull the linkage rod that open the lock mechanism?

Hello All:

Tax return checks are on the way! Looking to replace the stock Pioneer radio/cassette (no cd) stereo with an aftermarket nav/cd/radio stereo. 1991 ES250. Any recommendations out there?

Like this?

Good job that looks great!

hmm....im stumped...could be the control module for the auto locks and windows took a crap.

windows took a crap? =\

Download the FSM that, ahem, :whistles: Santarme posted. Its pinned above the forum listings. The "electrical" volume will show you how it's wired/controlled. Helped me TONS with my 91 ES! Luv that Santarme!

I'm quite aware of the 9 million posts on how to do it, could it possibly be I don't want to take the risk and screw up my ECU?

OR you could buy the plug in reader (one-way plug in "glorified" jumper like Toys mentioned) that comes with a rather thick bilingual book of code listings & instructions ($39 @ Kragen). Cheaper than yer diag. fee & quite safe. PLUS you'll have it for any possible future use. ;)

what about that engine shock absorber? in front of driver side fan? car has 141k on it. and what will part# be from autozone if need to be replaced?

Thank You

Log on to Autozone.com, put in yer make/model/year and search. ;)

Looks great! Much brighter! CONGRATS!!

Hi, I am installing these LED bulbs in instrument panle, in my 93 ES300

Does any one know how to identify negative and positive current on the CIRCUIT BOARD OF INSTRUMENT PANEL as unlike regular filament bulbs, these LED bulbs will work only when placed correctly with negative and positive current.

Thanks in advance

It shouldn't matter.

If they are polarity sensitive, use a DC digital voltmeter where they hook up (the circuit board connections); the black meter lead being negative & the red lead being positive. Turn on the switch & read the meter with the leads at the bulb connection points. If the meter reads +12VDC, the point the red lead is attached IS the 12V positive & the other negative. If the meter reads -12VDC, then your leads are reversed (red is connected to the negative & black is connected to the +12VDC terminal).

Hope that makes sense to you & it helps! B)

Red is pretty much the classic. I made my oil & valve cover gaskets out of it. I don't like it because after applying, like 10-15 min later you have to re-torque everything evenly.

Ultra black is their most oil resistant & you don't need to re-torque it. It also has a slightly higher max temp, but that's out of the range it would ever see on an engine where you have any kind of non-metal seal so the temp doesn't really matter.

OK, cool I will stop by the walfart and look. I know they had a black kind but I did not remeber which ones with the 90000% sales there are having and my wife/kid looking like "can we leave now".....

i really want to remove the valve cover (front only) and see how good or bad it looks. I will take some pix and post back.

Thank again.....You really know your %$&%!

Hey Toys! I got all the supplies for your "fix". Ya got any "tricks" for the cam seals? I snugged down the cover nuts , cleaned em up & so far no leaks, but I'm sure they will eventually & I'm prepared. The front rubber cam seal is weeping a little though.