jjewell

cool, as long as it is "sensor friendly".

bump- c'mon, somebody? :cries:

I got a stock radio/cd player to swap out my non cd stock radio. Connectors are different & fsm shows a separate amplifier. Has anyone done this swap out? Is there any connectors out there that can make this work?

Do a search. :chairshot:

I did mine a short while back. Engine was cold & very little (less than an ounce) actually came out. But plugging the line as mentioned above should eliminate much of a "mess".

Agree with above. Also check for corrosion in the socket & clean up contacts if needed.

dual element bulbs? 1 element in bulb for brakes, one for turn signals. Pull out bulb & ck elements with a meter OR take it to yer local parts house & they'll test it fer ya. ;)

The rear stabilizer (sway) bar bushings. There are 2 of them. If yer gonna do it, do the 2 end links too. B) What is an "endlink"? They are a dogbone shaped piece about 4" long with ball joints on either end. One end to the end of the sway bar & the other end to the strut. I did the test mentioned in the FSM for testing torque on the end link joints and all of them were loose & worn out. Tight, smooth & quiet now!

The local toyota stealership said I had to get em @ Lexus. $23 for 2 rubber bushings! Ah well, at least it's fixed!

The rear stabilizer (sway) bar bushings. There are 2 of them. If yer gonna do it, do the 2 end links too. B)

oh yea, replaced the sway bar end links & bushings. Got the end links (both) off ebay cheaper than one priced high @ stealership. Had to get the bushings @ stealership though. 45 minutes, drive test & no more noise!

After doing above, you may want to check compression on that bank when the engine is hot & again when its cold. A friend of mine had a misfire code & it ended up being a crack in the head between the valves.

Did you try the winzip.com utility download to decompress the fsm download? You will need Adobe Acrobat to then read the uncomressed FSM's.

I had the same problem when I downloaded it too. Go to winzip.com & download the newest version. It's free & it will work on the files.

my hood does the lame thing per say. There is slack or tolerance in the hitch. Try adjusting it if you can. If it rattles is it metal to metal. I would lube up the latch with spray grease and maybe check to see if you have rubber bumbers on the hood area. Oh, Welcome to LOC! I think mburnicas is on to something. Check if the rubber bumpers on either side of the underhood area are 1) still there and 2) if they are mounted on a stud that is adjustable. If so' adjust them up so they better support the hood (force from underneath the hood "up") while still keeping the alignment with the rest of the body. Between adjusting those & the stationary hitch hopefully it'll tighten things up! Hope that helps & welcome!!!

Glad to hear it worked out. Sometimes these "odd" occurences require "exploratory surgery"! ;)

Without knowing what year it is...... Is the door in a "locked" state? If so , can you get a grip on the popup lock knob & pull it up to unlock it? Try downloading the FSM for ES model thats stickied at the top of the forum page (Thanks again to our friend Santarme!). The body volume gives good pictures of the inside of the door. Maybe a slimjim would work if you could "hook" onto and push/pull the linkage rod that open the lock mechanism?

Hello All: Tax return checks are on the way! Looking to replace the stock Pioneer radio/cassette (no cd) stereo with an aftermarket nav/cd/radio stereo. 1991 ES250. Any recommendations out there?

Good job that looks great!

Download the FSM that, ahem, :whistles: Santarme posted. Its pinned above the forum listings. The "electrical" volume will show you how it's wired/controlled. Helped me TONS with my 91 ES! Luv that Santarme!

OR you could buy the plug in reader (one-way plug in "glorified" jumper like Toys mentioned) that comes with a rather thick bilingual book of code listings & instructions ($39 @ Kragen). Cheaper than yer diag. fee & quite safe. PLUS you'll have it for any possible future use. ;)

Log on to Autozone.com, put in yer make/model/year and search. ;)

Looks great! Much brighter! CONGRATS!!

It shouldn't matter. If they are polarity sensitive, use a DC digital voltmeter where they hook up (the circuit board connections); the black meter lead being negative & the red lead being positive. Turn on the switch & read the meter with the leads at the bulb connection points. If the meter reads +12VDC, the point the red lead is attached IS the 12V positive & the other negative. If the meter reads -12VDC, then your leads are reversed (red is connected to the negative & black is connected to the +12VDC terminal). Hope that makes sense to you & it helps! B)

OK, cool I will stop by the walfart and look. I know they had a black kind but I did not remeber which ones with the 90000% sales there are having and my wife/kid looking like "can we leave now"..... i really want to remove the valve cover (front only) and see how good or bad it looks. I will take some pix and post back. Thank again.....You really know your %$&%! Hey Toys! I got all the supplies for your "fix". Ya got any "tricks" for the cam seals? I snugged down the cover nuts , cleaned em up & so far no leaks, but I'm sure they will eventually & I'm prepared. The front rubber cam seal is weeping a little though.