RhoXS

Thanks Jon. I have been doing a lot of searching on the two Lexus forums. I stumbled into a post that included an attached PDF file. Unfortunately I do not remember where I found it. On the main forum page (so you do not limit the search to just a single vehicle model) search using the term "lockpick". It was a recent post. If you can't find it send me a message with your email address and I will email you the PDF file.

The label on the caps on some of the cigarette lighters states 120 watts. This is 10 amps max at 12 volts. In my opinion, the conductor sizes in most if not all vehicles seem marginal for a continuous 10 amp load. A continuous 10 amp load will probably cause a significant temperature rise in the wiring harness and at connections. That does not mean it cannot safely handle 10 amps for brief period of time (like using a small 12 volt air pump to press up a tire). However, I would not even think of applying a 10 amp load continuously on any of my cars. The correct method of supplying a large DC load in a vehicle is to run a fused wire (probably minimum #14 conductor depending on length) directly to the battery. The wire not only needs to be able to handle the current without an undue temperature rise, but the voltage drop across the wire must be no more than a volt or so at maximum load. Ohm's Law gets you two ways with low voltage DC high current circuits. The so called "I squared R" losses can produce a lot of heat and the "IR" voltage drop can be significant if the wire is not properly sized. Search for "12 volt power inverters" using Google. Also, check your local marine supply stores for a good inverter. One last but very important consideration. Installing an inverter for in a car for a critical load gives you many "single point vulnerabilities". In other words, there will be many single failures that can easily leave you without power for the O2 machine. If loss of O2 cannot be easily tolerated for enough time to get to another source, then this might not be such a good idea. Think about a likely scenario, of a failure on say an Interstate, twenty miles or more from the nearest exit, in heavy rush hour traffic. We have a close relative with COPD. She requires continuous O2. She has an O2 machine that is intended for portable operation. It allows her to travel by vehicle. I believe it is battery operated. I do not know if it is designed to use and/or charge on a cigarette lighter. I strongly suggest you do not try to adapt a 120 volt machine to work in a vehicle but instead use a machine that is intended for this type of service. Your health care provider can probably suggest equipment specifically intended for portability and it may even be covered by your health care insurance.

I want to test a theory associated with being permanently able to override the Nav system lockout. To do this I need the vehicle stationary with respect to the wheels not turning but have it actually change location enough to see the change on the map display. A ferry seems like the perfect way to do this but there is no ferry I have access to. This is why I want to know: It is known that the nav system will stop updating the map position if the vehicle speed sensor signal is disconnected, even though it is still a fully functional stand alone GPS that should not require any external input except for power. It appears obvious, at least to me, this behavior is an intentional deterrent to prevent disconnecting the vehicle speed sensor signal so one can regain full control of the nav system. I am trying to determine if the nav system behaves this way because it is programmed to not update unless it sees some small but finite speed from the vehicle speed sensor (no practicle work around) or, if I am lucky, it looks for a small positive DC voltage that may likely be present at zero speed on the input from the speed sensor (an easy work around). A little research located an Electrical Wiring Diagram with an ultra simplified schematic of the "C17 Combination Meter" (where the speed signal comes from). It clearly shows how the speed signal that the Nav system uses is derived. The signal going to Nav system is pulsed to ground (via a switching transistor and current limiting resistor) at a rate proportional to speed. This implies to me there is very likely a small positive voltage on this wire when the transistor is "off". At zero speed the transistor should be off. In other words, if the Nav system updates the map when the wheels are stationary but the vehicle is actually changing location, there is very likely a simple work around to regain full use of the Nav system. If the map position does not change, then it is probably internally programmed to see a finite speed (pulse rate) from the vehicle speed sensor before it will work as a GPS. In the latter case, my theory is in the toilet and I am SOL wrt having a usable system. To test this theory I tried driving very slow so the vehicle is at least moving but the manual input icons are not yet greyed out. I wanted to see if the map updated as no wires were cut and everything is intact. I could not practically maintain a low enough speed to do this.

If you have a good dealership there should be no real negotiating required. Last month the local dealership simply gave us a price at $2500 under invoice with almost no prior discussion and we simply said yes. The salesman was one of the most professional I dealt with in 39 years of buying new cars.

Actually, about $2500 under invoice seemed to be the going price during December. Lexus had a $2500 cash rebate to the dealers (it expired January 05, 2009). It appeared the dealers where applying almost the entire rebate to the sale. Edmunds will also tell you what incentives are available. I just checked and Edmunds is now showing a $5000 manufacturer "cash to dealer" incentive. I am assuming that is per vehicle. Since the 2010 models are supposedly due on the lots in a few months, it appears Lexus is trying to unload all the 2009 inventory as quickly as possible. I suspect excess inventory that is driving the Toyota plant shutdowns announced a week or so ago also has a significant influence on this.

It has been established interrupting the vehicle speed signal normally input to the Nav system will restore the ability to manually enter data when under way. This fact is taken advantage of by products such as Lockpick3 and some hardware “hacks”. Interrupting this signal also has the negative effect of causing the Nav system to stop navigating, even though it is a full function GPS with no justifiable need for an external speed signal. Therefore, none of these techniques are true elegant solutions that can be implemented once and then forgotten. They all cause the Nav system to stop navigating temporarily and some action must be taken to restore it. I was thinking about this and some thoughts came to mind. I made two assumptions for how the speed signal is probably internally used by the Nav system based on what I would have done if I was the Engineer that designed the system: 1. The nav system probably does not normally use the external speed sensor signal. It probably only uses GPS based data for calculating position and updating the map unless the GPS data is not available. Only then does it revert to the vehicle speed sensor signal for temporary dead reckoning. 2. The speed sensor signal has a secondary function (maybe primary in the warped sick mind of a lawyer). This secondary function is to lock out manual input to the Nav system once the vehicle exceeds some very low speed. There must be some finite threshold value, albeit very low, so the system does not inadvertently lockout input when not in motion (i.e. avoids “chatter” by using a small “dead band”). As a deterrent to simply removing this signal to override the manual input lockout, the Nav system is programmed to stop navigating, even using GPS derived position information, if it sees no input from the vehicle speed sensor input. If I was brave enough to experiment (I am not) with my brand new three week old 2009 RX350, I would try one of the following two experiments. Using a good high impedance digital DVOM to measure the voltage on the speed signal line at rest might help focus on which might be the best method below. 1. I would take a relatively large value electrolytic capacitor and connect it between the wire containing the speed signal and ground. Doing this would avoid having to cut the wire but it would maintain a mostly constant positive DC voltage on the input to the Nav system at no higher than the voltage it normally sees. This should be relatively safe to do (with respect to potentially damaging something) and might just simulate a constant zero speed but intact input to the system. Depending on how the speed signal going to the Nav system is isolated from other circuits, it might be necessary to insert a diode behind it (this means cutting the wire) to avoid effecting other Nav system functions. This approach assumes the vehicle speed sensor signal is a positive DC voltage that is interrupted at a rate proportional to the vehicles speed. There might even be a positive constant DC voltage present at zero speed. OR 2. I would cut the wire containing the speed signal and then ground the end going to the Nav system (insulate and secure the end coming from the wiring harness). It is possible the vehicle speed signal is a negative/grounded signal that is interrupted with a small positive DC voltage at a rate proportional to the vehicles speed. At zero speed it is possible the speed signal input is grounded. If my car was not so new and out of warranty I would be experimenting as I think one of these approaches may put a quick elegant end to this foolishness. Anyway, I hope these thoughts provide some useful ideas for someone braver than me.

Do I understand you to say that the Lockpick3 will not work if using a 7.1 or 8.1 OEM disk? I just ordered (about 45 minutes ago) a Lockpick3 Basic by telephone. I called specifically to be sure I was ordering the correct product and clearly told them it was a 2009 RX350. Bret, the salesperson, did not indicate that there would be any problem. By pure chance, i read your post within minutes of placing the order. I have been trying to call them back but can only get answering service now. I am going to be very *BLEEP*ed if it turns out they sold and shipped a product that is not compatible with my car.

I seriously doubt Lexus will repair your speedometer. Our 2002 RX300 reads one mph lower than actual (using a garmin 2730 Streetpilot as a reference). Our new 2009 RX350 indicates 2.5 mph lower than actual per the same reference. The actual vs indicated delta on both vehicles is very well behaved and remains constant at all speeds. Our 2002 BMW Z3 3.0i Roadster, on the otherhand, indicates from 2.5 to four mph higher than actual and seems to vary as a function of the tides. This is a common issue and BMW will do nothing to reduce or correct the error.

I suspected this is the case for a few days now. I know my burns are good. I can consistently burn a usable clone either from an ISO of the OEM disk or by using ImgBurn and burning directly from the files stored on my hard drive. If I simply overwrite (on my hard drive) the 7.1 loading.kwi version with the 5.1 loading.kwi version, the burned disk will not load. However, the map and POI data are usable if I substitute the disk for the already loaded OEM disc. It is hard not to come to the conclusion that the system is rejecting loading the disc because it does not like the loading.kwi file. Although it is certainly well beyond my ability, I am surprised no one has figured out how the loading.kwi file identifies itself. I used a hex editor to scan the file and can find nothing obvious to me. This is frustrating because it would probably take altering only a few bytes of data to spoof the system into thinking its loading a different version. This is forcing me to consider a device such as Lockpick3. I wanted to avoid this method because interrupting the speed signal and then forcing the system to relocate itself does not seem like a very elegant solution for a number of reasons. Unfortunately, the system as it now operates is just unacceptable.

scottq60, I have a 2002 BMW 3.0i Z3 Roadster. I bought it new and absolutely love the car. It is now six years old and it fights me at every opportunity in my efforts to maintain it in as perfect condition as I can (almost like being married). You are absolutely correct about the cost and effort required to maintain it. However, I like driving it so much I have not yet thrown in the towel. Unfortunately, the Z4, which is out of production anyway now, does not begin to have the great styling my Z3 has. My Z3 also has a much lighter feel to it than the Z4 so it is a lot more fun to toss around on windy roads. This car, like no other, including my old M3, can put a smile on your face.

I have to agree with original poster. There are a number of features that Toyota could have easily done a better job with. Our new RX350 is our second RX series vehicle so we were very familiar with what we were getting when we bought the car. In other words, my wife and I decided the RX350 met our needs and the minor issues/omissions were not going to prevent us from buying it. This does not negate the fact that, in our opinion, Toyota made some poor decisions, probably for the sake of appearance over function or just plane cost savings that should not have happened in a $45K MSRP vehicle. I am sure this is also true for all the competitive auto manufactures (Mercedes, BMW, Infinity, etc.). In fact, being a BMW owner also, I know it is true for them too.

If I insert the hybrid disk, without first pulling the fuse, the nav system appears to read the map data without an issue. I am in Florida and it found a location in Indiana so it appears to work. This now implies even more strongly that the system is rejecting the 5.1 loading.kwi file and the burn is good. This is not good news. I still would like to find a hybrid version that is known to work but I now suspect the results will be the same. I just had a thought. Is there more than one version of the 5.1 loading.kwi file? My 2009 RX350 has a Generation 5 nav system. Is there also a 5.1 loading.kwi file intended for a generation 4 system? If so, how does one tell the difference?

It is my understanding the typical dealer charge for parts and installation is just under $700. A large Lexus dealer (Brahman) in Palm Beach quoted me $335.50 for parts and $360.00 for three hours labor at $120/hour. The dealer we bought the car from also quoted in the mid $600s. Ultra 12, I suggest you ask the dealer to break down the $900 he quoted you. The retail cost of these parts is $136.50 for part # 861000W160 (Fit Kit) and $199.00 for part # 861800W031 (Receiver). The dealer should not be charging you more for the parts than the retail cost. As indicated above, you can buy these parts on line at a discount for a total of $239.20 + shipping but then you have to install them yourself. I suggest you also call a dealer in some nearby city and ask them what the labor charge will be to keep your local dealer honest (as if that would ever be possible). In any case, at $900, you should certainly not consider your dealer as someone looking out for your best interests.

My 2009 RX350 has an August build date. I am also pulling the Radio 1 fuse. This seems like it is the proper fuse because removing and then reinserting the OEM disk without pulling the fuse does not bring up the blue colored loading screen with the horizontal green tape like status bar along the bottom. However, if I pull the fuse, and then reinsert the OEM disk, the blue colored loading screen appears. This lockout problem with the Nav system is really annoying me. For years my wife and I have used high end Garmin devices in both our vehicles. It is not uncommon for my wife to use it to find restaurants, hotels, rest areas, etc. when we take road trips while I drive. This presents absolutely no safety hazard so I strongly resent the lockout feature. I knew it existed before I bought the car but I was expecting to be able to quickly and easily override it. The voice command system does not begin to have any real convenience and functionality. This seems ludicrous but we have discussed putting one of our Garmin's in the RX350 to supplement the crippled $2600 whiz bang installed Lexus unit. Seems like the Japanese are still getting even with us for their unconditional surrender at the end of WWII. Sorry, I had to vent.

John Midolo, I am having the exact same problem. I can burn a workable clone of the OEM 7.1 disk, but no matter how I make the hybrid, it simply will not load and the Eng/Jap message remains on the screen. I noticed from other threads on this and other forums that this seems to be a fairly common problem. For the time being, I have given up will try again in a few weeks. The fact that I can make a workable clone of the OEM disk, but not a hybrid, seems to imply either a problem with the 5.1 .kwi file I am using or something in the Nav firmware that will not allow it to use a 5.1 loader. I would like to try a hybrid disk that has been proven to work in another vehicle to test my theory but I have not yet been able to find anyone in this area (Stuart, Florida) who has one. I am leaning to the theory about the firmware but really have no basis yet to support that argument. I think we all need to express our appreciation to Step Hen for all the help he offers in this forum. I certainly could not have gotten as far as I did without his knowledge.

Sure. Go to sewelllexus.com Click on either Dallas or Fort Worth Click on Parts - Purchase Parts Online Type 861000W160 in the search field at the top of the page and click on Go Change "By description" to "By Part No." to right of search field and then Click Go Click on Blue text "86100-0W160-08 XM Satellite Radio" under "Part Number/Short Description" Click on "View/Download Installation Instructions" just below caricature of wrench on right side of screen. The cost of the parts (the receiver and installation/mounting kit) is much less at lexuspartsonline.com. I never ordered from them so I do not know how reliable and honest they are.

I just built a hybrid disk (5.1/7.1) for our new 2009 RX350. Searching the various forums indicated that the correct fuse to pull for de-energizing the Nav is a 7.5 amp fuse titled "TV". My 2009 RX350 has no fuse with this title but it does have a 7.5 amp fuse titled "Radio 2" that the owner's manual states feeds the Nav system (there is another fuse that the manual states feeds the display but I am assuming it is not this fuse). I pulled the "Radio 2" fuse, left it out for almost 20 minutes, but the system did not seem to reset. Therefore I have to assume it is another fuse but what fuse is it? Interestingly, the hybrid disk did not work probably because I used DVD-R instead of DVD+R media (I'll fix that problem tomorrow). When I finally reinstalled the disk that came with the car (ver 7.1), the system seemed to reset on its own as all my custom POI's disappeared.

I am going to install XM radio in our new Lexus RX350. I've looked at both the Vais and lexus units and decided to go with the Lexus unit. Lexuspartsonline.com has the two required part numbers (861000W160 and 861800W031) for $240 plus shipping, even less expensive than the Vais device. I want to use the Lexus unit because 1) it is a single black box with a specific mounting location and comes with mounting brackets etc. Lexus has a 23 page installation manual that can be downloaded from Sewell Lexus on line parts but, even though it is very detailed, I cannot fully understand some of the location sketches. Where exactly is the tuner mounting position? It mounts directly adjacent to the "Audio Amp". I think Fig. 3-9 and 3-10 are showing it just behind the rear seat but I am not sure. Has anyone else self installed the factory unit? I would be interested in learning from your experience. For example, was it really necessary to remove the rear bumper to professionally route the antenna wire into the vehicle? I am thinking there are other alternatives. I typically plan this type of activity but with a car that is only a few days off the dealer's lot I feel the need to learn as much as I can before taking it apart.

Is it possible for a valet parking attendant to use something like a "code grabber" to learn the garage door code. My garage door door uses a rolling code system and our cars are always parked inside the garage. However, we have always been reluctant to program the Homelink devices with the garage door code out of fear a valet parking attendant can use it to gain access to our house. Is this a well founded concern?

My two cents is that putting N2 in street car tires instead of air is a complete and total waste. After 39 years of owning cars, I never had a tire explode due to the compressed O2 reacting/igniting with the tire or wheel, I never have seen the slightest indication of corrosion due to moisture inside the tire, I have always been able to have perfectly balanced tires (no H2O droplets here in humid Florida to unbalance them), and never seen a consequential issue of air leakage except when something (e.g. nail) punctures the tire. My new four day old RX350 has N2 in the tires probably because some salesperson thought it would enhance the ability to sell it. I doubt the tires were inflated at the factory with N2 and I highly doubt that the residual air was vacuumed out of the tires before they were inflated with N2. The only advantage of having the tires on our new car inflated with N2 relates to the appearance of the valve stem caps. The caps, apparently part of the N2 package, are some of the nicest industrial strength caps I have ever seen. I am sure they do nothing more than a standard cap but they do look nice. So nice, I keep the four old caps in the glove compartment so I can replace the N2 caps when they are eventually stolen.

We bought a new 2009 RX350 a four days ago. As soon as I can figure out where and how to get a 5.1 disk, I intend to make a 5.1/8.1 hybrid. I do have two questions I have not seen answered in other posts. 1 - Is there a downside when using a hybrid disk? Are any features lost that appear in later versions? Does the appearance of any of the screens change? etc. 2 - Does the override that becomes available also allow full use of the Bluetooth telephone interface? As an aside, although purchasing a 2009 (it is still 2008) model with only 25 miles on it would have led me to believe it would have included the latest DVD, it did not. It came with ver 7.1. The build date was August and I believe that was before version 8.1 was issued. We have already approached the dealer about this but have not heard back from them. So far the dealer has been exceptionally accommodating and professional (a very rare experience) so I am anxious to see what they do.

We are planning to replace our 2002 RX300 with a low mileage CPO 2005 RX330 in a few weeks. Does the navigation system in the RX330 have exactly the same features as the system in the LS430? A friend has a 2005 LS430 and I am curious to know if the RX330 will have all the same bells and whistles. Both my wife and I like our electronic automotive toys. Any consequential compromise on features could significantly influence our choice of vehicles.

Thanks for all the good advice. I am going to go with the Cross Terrains. I am really looking forward to experience the difference once they are installed. Interestingly, I found I can save almost $100 by purchasing the tires at a local chain called Tire Kingdom rather than ordering them from The Tire Rack. Total cost installed, including taxes, disposal fees, balancing etc., is approximately $20.00 less than only the delivered cost from The Tire Rack. Tire Kingdom has a $100.00 on the spot rebate. I am a little apprehensive using this chain as I do not have a high level of trust in them but the total cost difference is too much to ignore.

Our RX-300 has Goodyear Integrity tires. Although they still have over half the tread depth left, I want to replace them because their traction on a wet surface is unacceptably dangerous and they are much to quick to hydroplane. I also think their overall handling is poor and I perceive them to be much noisier than I think they should be. I have been researching a replacement tire. I looked at the Tire Rack reviews/ratings and I also received some very good input in other discussions. I am now narrowed down to one of two Michelin products; the Cross Terrain or the LTX M/S. In spite of all my research I cannot seem to find anything on which to base an intelligent decision as these two tires appear to be very similar. The only real difference appears to be price ($21.00/tire). The important parameters to me are: - Wet surface traction / hydroplaning resistance - Handling - Quiet Ride comfort is also important but not at any consequential expense of the items above. We live in Florida so ice/snow handling is of no importance. I would appreciate any thoughts about which of these two tires is the "better" tire.