rtd111

It seems to me that the solenoid (which is below) the nut does and must come off. We've seen how the top part that has the filter and the nut seem to be a singly machined part. This makes the bottom portion mate the top: as rahlo1 explained via his removal process and where I was before I got the nut out. Rahlo1 talks about a spring which is clearly shown in the engineering diagram in the maintenance manual. (Which diagram, btw, calls the filter the "Spool".) Of course, if the goal is to clean the filter, then we care only about the top part. Looking from the top thru the hole, you do see another very tiny hole inside of the "cylinder" or tube that goes all the way down into the solenoid; this hole is at about the level of the nut. The solenoid coil activates the spring which regulates the flow of oil thru the filter and into the PCV. It seems fairly obvious that if the filter is dirty or its screen broken, then the tube that houses the spring must also collect dirt and that might be worse because that dirt has no escape. And rahlo1 is probably talking about cleaning this part, not the filter because that, based on his explanation, was still with the nut and in the PCV housing on the rack. I am, however, reluctant to remove the bottom part until rahlo1 can confirm some of this. I have been able to turn the bottom solenoid part back so its flush with the nut now but unclear what is "bonding/holding" the two parts together -- the two parts being the solenoid valve body and the part above the nut with the filter and gasket. I can't tell from the diagram that it is threaded. (I am unable to attach the diagram because I don't have enough attachment space available.) Of course, I am going off the deep end here with this stuff. :chairshot:

If you look at my pic from the Dec 6 post, you'll see / can discern the gap underneath the nut. There is a white-ish hard plastic-looking cover, almost like a sealed envelop / cylinder that's visible from the gap. I guess I need to test the solenoid. I carefully removed the filter from the solenoid: I held the plastic frame gently with pliers and slowly rotated the solenoid until the filter started to edge up. Once there was a gap, I used the top of a flathead to push around the bottom till it was reached a point on the shaft where I could simply lift it up and out. The filter wasn't clean but it wasn't gummed up either, as reported by others. There was a bit of stuff there but I expected a whole lot more. However, I did notice on closer examination that 2 (out of the 6) panels on the filter had very small tears in the screen. That may explain it but again there were just a few black specs which I carefully removed with a soft paint brush and brake fluid. (I was tempted to use gasoline, which has worked well in cleaning such things but nobody seems to use that and heeded the advice on using brake fluid -- don't want to dissolve more than the dirt!). It would be good to put a new filter -- is this a bad call on Lexus' part around this whole solenoid issue? I imagine the rack rebuilders must be be using new filters. I think I am going to go to the Toyota dealer on Fri with the filter (and solenoid) and see what they have to say. I've never really had a problem with hard steering before. And not since I got it going on Sunday after relacing the PSPump. I did flush about 7 quarts of fluid on Sunday until it looked as clear as the one I was pouring in (and it wasn't that bad to begin with -- last flush may have been at a service at 98K miles, currently at 145K). Attached is a pic of the lock pliers. I hit the hammer both at the 2" spot (close to the jaw & just before the "neck") and at the 7-8" spot for leveraged impact. You need to insert the top jaw in my pic into the gap between the solenoid and the PCV as far as you can, then get the other jaw in far enough to lock into a firm grip: you'll have only about a 1/4" or so clearance from that hose I talked about. One of the jaws MUST be square on a flat side of the nut: better if both but this particular plier size I was using has too much of an angle between the jaws to squarely lock both jaws on the nut. Hope this helps.

SUCCESS at last. :D I've got the solenoid WITH the nut out. Out baby out. :whistles: Let me summarize a couple of key lessons here, not new because it was mentioned in other threads on this post but worth summarizing here in one place: 1) Its a good idea to try removing the nut when the car has run a bit and everything is warm. 2) Assuming (1), you still may have to spray some loosener repeatedly, maybe day after day. All the while when I was trying last week and earlier, the car had not even been cranked for 4 weeks or so. I came back from work today and 10 mins later, the car was up on jack & jackstands, & left front wheel out. I tried punching the nut again with a screw driver but no luck. I felt the locking long nose pliers were giving me a better grip so I switched to that. But no go. I then gave it a good long dose of PB (I choose that over WD40 in this instance -- hadn't got the Kroil or Toyota prod yet). A couple minutes later, I went at it again with the locking plier and hammered it 2-3 times firmly at the outer end of the pliers - not very hard but pretty firm, and viola, the nut turned. (I had done this many time last week and before to no avail, so no new technique here.) I have this out now. Incidentally, the filter does not look very dirty: some particles but hardly clogged. I had tried to remove the nut a couple of days ago and had used some WD40 then but the nut did not come loose in that attempt. A friend that does this kind of stuff on his boat every spare second he has said that the WD40 and the like may take a week or so to take affect. (He also suggested a small, directed flame but I would rather take it to a shop before going that route.) So, Monarch, you can give this a shot. Should work. CAVEAT: Follow caution when using the locking pliers. One of the high pressure hoses coming in from the front of the car into the PCV is too close so watch that the grip with the locking longnose. I tried the curve jaw also earlier; the long nose grips MUCH better. If it slips, it will hit the hose (which is metal) so watch for damage to that. Remember short strokes: lock, hammer, maybe a slip, release, relock, repeat. My hose has suffered some discoloration from a small number of bad locks / slips but no other problem -- I've run this car last 5 days and have been checking for leaks around here: none. My other problem remains: the body of the solenoid is slightly separated from the nut, about 2mm gap. I can see there was a gasket there. I am waiting for rahlo1 to get back to see if I should attempt to separate it completely, clean and re-assemble. Though I don't know what's to clean in there. I would think its mainly electricals in the casing. Thanx for bearing with me thru this loooong response: but I hope it will be useful to someone attempting this procedure. Now I need to go back and finish cleaning the filter.

I'm not real clear either whether this so-called "locknut" is really a locknut that needs to be loosened. I'm just going by what RFeldes said in his most recent post. Rfeldes is the first person who ever mentioned anything about a locknut - but who knows, maybe he's right. It's really hard to get a consensus about proper and proven procedures regarding this solenoid removal issue. ← Monarch: Have you tried to remove the solenoid yet? I took a careful look around the nut and am pretty sure that there is no "lock" nut you mention to in your pic. Its a bolt on a hose that's connected to the PCV. The solenoid nut is free and clear. So I think there is consensus. I am just having a heck of a time with mine: maybe it wasn't screwed on tight or has been on for 14+ years and is really frozen in there. I have ordered, per Threadcutter's suggestion, Kroil --- wd-40 and PB just haven't done anything thus far to help the situation. Rahlo1 is really missing out on all this fun ;) ← hello guys. I have not been on the site for a while because my fiancee was in an accident with my LS and totaled it. She was hurt pretty bad but she is doing much better now. Now back to the topic this was a very messy job because of the way I did it some people say hit it with a chissel or punch but that didnt work for me so I had to go this route. When I cleaned my screen I took the entire selonoid off by turning it counter clock wise and then simply pulling it off. Once the solenoid is off you will then see the long tube, turn the bottom of that tube counter clock wise and remove it be careful there is a small spring inside that can fall out. Once that bottom piece is removed you can look up the tube and see a small hole take a piece of clear tube about 1' long and small enough to fit inside the hole, now take your brake cleaner and spray it in the other end of the hose while the opposite end is inside of the tube. I used the entire can because there is no way to clean it with a brush, but be patient and use the entire can of brake cleaner. Just spay and let it work its way up the tube and repeat this over and over until the entire can is empty. This worked for me and I hope that it will work for you guys also. P.S. I am currently in the market for another LS because that car saved my fiancees life. what a great car. I will post pics of the car after the accident soon. ← Hey Rahlo1, sorry to hear about the accident but truly glad on the life / safety element. Deserves a -- quite an ordeal I am sure and it probably won't be over for a bit. Appreciate your attention to the Forum. And on the topic at hand, I have turned the solenoid to the point it wont turn any more. Plus its real tight and in-place, so not easy to pull out. I sense there is some kind of a rubber seal holding the solenoid in place. Not clear what that filter area mates into but it feels to me that something is holding it tight and I am fearful of simply pulling it down. Maybe you can shed more light on the process of "pulling it off". Did you force it down and out? What tool did you use? ??? After you pulled it, were you able to remove the nut? Did you need to? We may revisit your cleaning procedure if needed. Finally, how did you get it back on? How did the solenoid "attach" back (and seal back) in place? THIS STEP IS IMPORTANT so please help -- please don't skimp on the details. I have finished my flush, etc and got the car running. However, the solenoid remains separated but not detached (per my pic earlier). Its firmly in place though and hasn't budged in the 25 miles or so I have put on the car since. (3-6 miles per ride thus far.) I plan to get to it this Friday once Kroil gets delivered (tomorrow hopefully and I'll maybe also get the Toyota product Monarch mentioned -- can never have enough of this stuff). I also have a reco from Threadcutter on a local repair shop if all else fails. Await your response. Thanx.

I'm not real clear either whether this so-called "locknut" is really a locknut that needs to be loosened. I'm just going by what RFeldes said in his most recent post. Rfeldes is the first person who ever mentioned anything about a locknut - but who knows, maybe he's right. It's really hard to get a consensus about proper and proven procedures regarding this solenoid removal issue. ← Monarch: Have you tried to remove the solenoid yet? I took a careful look around the nut and am pretty sure that there is no "lock" nut you mention to in your pic. Its a bolt on a hose that's connected to the PCV. The solenoid nut is free and clear. So I think there is consensus. I am just having a heck of a time with mine: maybe it wasn't screwed on tight or has been on for 14+ years and is really frozen in there. I have ordered, per Threadcutter's suggestion, Kroil --- wd-40 and PB just haven't done anything thus far to help the situation. Rahlo1 is really missing out on all this fun ;)

Hmm, the lock nut? It looks from the exploded diagram (in the LS400 maint manual) of the gear housing that there are two tubes on the driver side of the PCV: a return tube and a pressure tube. The one in monarch's pic is the pressure tube. Its not clear to me that this needs to be removed unless you also want to remove the PCV, which is what I read on one of the posts. BUT who am I to render advice here.... this could well be it given the hex nut wont budge for me. Monarch, let me know if you indeed get this out and how (hand holding needed -- read: tools & technique). I did consider removing the PCV but this nut and the one from the return hose are in a really cramped spot.

Here's the mess I have created. Looks bad. Note that the solenoid is separated from the nut. There is some white metal and then there is a 2mm or so gap that looks like an ORing in the picture. This gap is after some twisting back and forth: the solenoid (body) is generally stopped turning in the counterclockwise direction but I have wiggled it down to expose that gap. Something is holding the solenoid very tightly in place. I almost feel like the nut is part of the PCV body. The punches on the nut are evident. The body looks worse in the picture than it is: I can go over the metal with a polisher if needed and clean that up. Outside of the aesthetics, I am more concerned about getting this out and put back together again. Thanx again for all your insights. (Earth calling rahlo1: you seemed to have removed the solenoid body like I have but got further along per your Oct 19 post on this thread.) Cheers (positive mental attitude is a MUST :whistles: ).

Not sure what your emphasis on "up" means. And why in my case. Sorry, have spent too much time on this (to the point I am repeating myself -- aargh ).

The Eastside (Bellevue). You seem to be NW from here.

Need rahlo1 (original poster of this thread) to pitch in here since he, like me, was able to turn the solenoid and not the nut. How did you pop it off and, more importantly, how did you get it back together again? A post in this regard will be immensely helpful. I just spent another few tens of minutes punching at the nut -- still no go. Its looking bad. I am going to wait tonight out for responses (maybe try a few small things again around this mini project) and if this fails, I am thinking about proceeding to flush the power steering (new pump) as is, get the car operational, and call around / take it in to the dealer -- all this assuming that the solenoid (or steering) is not already destroyed. Okay if I have leaks as long as the car drives to a repair facility. Too bad if it comes to this.

Re monarch's pic, gently pull on your blue tab to separate the pieces. In gumart1's pic, the nut is still attached to the solenoid. Mine has come separated just below the nut, while the nut is still attached to the PCV block. I have "tapped" the nut to the point where the nut is now pretty messed up as well. I am awaiting suggestions. About the inline filter, while a good idea, I am going to hold off on this one given I have bigger fish to fry -- I can always come back to that later. I may have created a bunch of work & expense for myself.

Yes, I am going to wait for responses: the thing has stopped turning and will not pop off (drop to the bottom) yet. Tried again to tap the nut hoping it will have some play to come out now but no avail. When I removed the two high pressure hoses (from the rear facing side), about a cup or so of ATF did come out. A few additional drops came from the lower port when I started to unscrew the solenoid but nothing more than that, so I assume most of it came out when I removed the pressure hoses yday. I used the vise grip type locking pliers, not Sears but like these: http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?...0&subcat=Pliers Have only flat nosed, not rounded jaw, so used what I had available tonite. My car is a 91 LS400. The "semicircular piece" is the plastic tab that, when pulled, the left side will unhinge and come out.

Er, about the wire, the semicircular piece is near you, oppo side of the snap. Well, there is only one such piece and its the one you pull up, gently. (Spent waay too much time on this job.

Thanx monarch, for the info. Well, the "tap" did not work for me, and I was doing it as described by Threadcutter, so I assume someone went on it with all his (her?) might. After the post, I read again related posts on this and felt maybe I should try turning the solenoid, since that's something I hadn't tried yet. With a lock plier, I clutched the solenoid fairly tight and turned counterclockwise with all my might and IT TURNED (per rahlo1) -- all the while afraid I might dent it but nothing more than scratches, after which I put couple of layers of duck tape. The pliers sometimes slip but I continued to turn it. I see the ORing being crushed out in pieces. The solenoid body is kinda scrached. I am four-plus turns on this after about 20 mins or so but it hasn't "popped" loose yet, and it does not seem to unscrew from anything: I see some bare metal between the nut and where the solenoid is coming off. I still can't turn it by hand - still pretty tight. I have to rely on the pliers. The body is kinda getting scratched and I thought I better take a break and check responses. That's where I am. About the wire: - towards the side that snaps onto the holder (the oppo side from you, viewing from the left tire side), there is a semicircular/roundish piece of the plastic. Turn this face towards you and gently pull on this piece while also pulling the left side of the piece and it should come free. I had some trouble with this but discovered this (and read a few minutes ago that the DOC file attached to this thread, posted by laserron, pretty much says this). Hope this helps. So I am now waiting for responses on when the solenoid will actually separate. Also, the nut is in place and I suppose I still have to remove it to put the ORing (or whatever piece of rubber that is giving away as I turn the solenoid body). Await more info. THANX in advance, all.

I am having a heck of a time :cries: removing the nut on the solenoid. I've spent several hours trying various options. As I go into that, please confirm that I have it right in (3) below: 1) I removed the front left / driver side tire and put the car on jack + jack stands. 2) Uncliped the wire connection to the solenoid. 3) Facing UP to the solenoid from the bottom of the car, I tap it left to attempt to turn the nut counterclockwise. This is the correct direction to unscrew it, right? (I wouldn't be on my stomach, Gumart1, when under the car but your counterclockwise still holds, I assumed.) Its got to the point where the metal is breaking off which means frustration is causing the taps to be more than just taps. 4) I even removed the high pressure hoses on the rear facing side of the pressure control valve, but cannot reach the front ones -- space too cramped and I don't seem to have the right tools reach those. Any suggestions here. 5) Tried lock pliers but unable to get grip around the nut. I've sprayed the nut with fair bit of WD40 to no avail. I am on my third evening with getting the solenoid separated. PLEASE HELP.

I have disassembled the Power Steering Pump, almost. What's left is to remove the lock ring that holds the bearing on the shaft. I am finding this extremely hard to remove. Tried screw drivers, snap ring pliers (broke a couple), etc. I looked into lock ring removal tool at Sears but its head is too big to fit into the tiny groove on the shaft. I am afraid that I may damage the shaft, esp as I hold it on a vice to try the various options. There ought to be an easier way. Any ideas? Thanx in advance for the advise.

Thanx for the note. Look forward to the pics and also the spec and where this goes.

Hey, a quick question, kinda silly: which way does the nut turn. I worked on it with a chisel and a flathead (separate tries :-), "gently" tapping) to no avail and wondered if I was tapping the right direction. Looking up do I turn the nut (or as someone suggested, the solenoid) right / clockwise or left? And just to doubly confirm and not waste fluid: I am rebuilding & replacing the PS Pump. After its in, do I flush the PS Fluid first and then clean the solenoid filter or the other way around? THANKS MUCH.

Any suggestions on where I can get a service manual for my 91 LS400? How about something like: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1990-1994-L...1QQcmdZViewItem This one seems to have a set for the various Lexus models, which helps, given I have a SC400 and LX450 as well. Any experiences out there with this (or better) CD (or DVD)? Thanx in advance.