rtd111

Thanks for the response. I thought that this non interference engine is protected from all timing belt and related "mishaps". Not the case then? I understand that the engine can give out without help from the other subsystems, but given how strong these engines are, given low mileage, given the car has been well maintained, and given it's never been driven harshly (at least not for the last 120K miles I've owned it), I am a bit surprised at this bent valves situation. Of course, it could be luck of the draw. My 91 LS400 is at 240K miles and still drives like a dream (but has recently developed engine oil leaks - I'll save that for another day).

94 SC400 185K miles (Non interference engine) Sorry could not find much in this forum or the web about this so apologies in case I missed a similar case. My mechanic just told me that I have bent valves. Before I go into the history, a simple question: - what are the conditions, other than perhaps a timing belt issue, under which valves get bent? Any and all ideas welcome (goes without saying, but theories need to be backed by mechanically defensive reasoning and data :-) ). Details: Car was parked for over two weeks (occasional use for 1-2 months prior to that - driven less than 1000 miles in this time frame). No engine / mechanical problems with the car before this. On starting, heard a clunky, metal sound and car would not start I was not the one that experienced this. My mistake was not cranking the engine when I got to the car (to limit damage) and started the following .... I knew the car was overdue for a timing belt (last change was at 75K miles). I had even contemplated ordering TB parts a week prior to this incident (I did the TB work on my LS400 a couple years ago) I assumed it is the timing belt, so started disassembly while I ordered the parts I saw that the timing belt was ok (not broken, but it had quite a bit of wear). I did not think about checking slippage or such. I just assumed since it hadn't split, it wasn't the issue that caused the car to not start (default action of the non-interference engine). So I figured that something else could have gone wrong. After some research and discussing with the person that experienced (2), I suspected that it might be the starter. So I started disassembling to get to it (you can read in this forum or on the Internet what a massive PITA that is). Well, this work ran over 3-4 weeks because I work away from where the car was, could only do this on the weekend, and I was soon to leave on a 25-day international trip So I reached out to a mechanic that we've had good experience with (on a non-Lexus) and towed the car to him. (BTW, I had meticulously organized the disassembly which he greatly appreciated but assured me that even if I had taken the parts in a box, he can handle it, given he was doing this for 35+ years. He also knew some of the nuances of the car, saying he owned a Lexus himself. Basically, he gave me confidence). While I was away, he put together the new starter, reassembled the manifold, etc etc as well as the timing belt/waterpump/rotors/plugs/etc. However he reported that the car would not start He said he did a compression test and 3 of the cylinders came up low, and he assessed that the values are bent. He couldn't tell me what would have caused this. So, - can you tell if this was this the problem in the first place? - OR, was the timing belt not done right causing a timing issue leading to the valves to be bent? is it even possible with a non-interference engine? The cost to do the valves is quoted at $2K. (The starter, TB and related labor was $800 -- reasonable I believe.) Is it worth doing the valves or is it time to junk this beauty? Thanks in advance for any feedback or guidance.

Well, its easier than I was thinking.... Careful compress the sprin in place until there is enough play to push down the upper mount from its seat and then some, pull out towards you until it clears wheel well and lift. May require some movement to wriggle it free. Once i starte down tis path, it took me less than 30 minutes -- most of the time because I was being careful to ensure the spring compression is even. Note that you wont (i wasnt) able grab more than 3 circles so it was some work to compress it down enough... I am doing passenger side first and seems like driver side will go faster from these learnings. But one never can tell, right? btw, the shocks are KYB. Reply if you have questions.

I thought I should take this on because the one for LS400 looks straightforward enough... removal and replacement of rear struts but for a 94 SC400 (fyi, 158K miles). I have the strut bolt at the bottom out, I also have the bolts out from the upper mount. All this took less than 30 mins. But now I am stuck. Question: do I have to remove any control arms, etc? Or is there a trick to removing the strut? The Lexus maint manual says (after removing the strut nuts/screws) to remove the caliper and the strut is supposed to come out. I don't see how. Any ideas? I am going to see if I can get the schematic uploaded here so have reference to various control arms, etc. (Edit: schematic attached: labels 1 thru 4 are my annotations on which ones might need removing. The #2 Lower Susp Arm -- which is what the strut is resting on. #2LSA is tightly integrated with #3 Strut Rod and #1LSA.) Thanx in advance.

Got the whole assembly out. Never got the clutch to separate from the housing.

90 LS400 190K miles I am replacing timing belt, and have having a heck of a time to remove the fan clutch. I've got the 4 bolts off. It does not slide off -- there's not much details on LEXLS (step 3 on timing belt tutorial) and even on searches here whether that's what is supposed to happen. There is a spring on the front of the fan: does this need to be pulled? Basically, removing the 4 bolts has done nothing to the fan clutch. I tried to remove the whole assembly, but keep discovering new bolts and screws - the cable harness mount has tiny screws that are frozen and no amt of pb / kroil helps that. I have progressed to step 17 now, and seems like I do need to get the fan clutch off (worked around it this far). Also, any ideas on step 18? Its a tough one. Impact driver wont fit in the space. Have a handful of breaker bars. Crankshaft keeps turning. Thanks much.

I see this is the list for a 98 LS400 but still a 1uzfe -- same engine as my 91 LS 400. Can anyone think of why I can't use the same parts? Many thanx in advance.

If it matters, I have an LS400, 1991, 172K miles I found http://www.toyodiy.com/parts/ for my part numbers. When I go to a Toyota parts site, I don't get any hits, though I am pretty certain there is an equiv number for most of the common parts. A good example is the Oil Filter: 90915‑20002 maps to 90915-YZZD3 Specifically, I am looking to replace my timing belt, water pump, et al. I want to use OEM parts. I found the numbers on the toyodiy site and would like to know how I can get these from a Toyota dealer (and not a Lexus dealer, for obvious reasons). Any ideas? Net net: anyone know Toyota part numbers for 91 LS400 for all the timing belt components (belt, idler, ...) and water pump? Thanks in advance.

Thanx for both replies. I did put the year: its 91. I should have mentioned: a transmission services was recently performed to see if it would fix the problem: just the fluid was flushed and changed. Nothing more significant than that. Separately, if it matters, the steering rack was replaced. Not sure what the reason was. BTW, I do not own this car: it belongs to a friend.

91 LS400, 240K miles When driving at freeway speeds, for example, past 50mph, when I release the gas pedal and then hit it again (however softly or aggressively), the car seems to skip a beat on the transmission. It looks like its downshifted an extra gear, and then reengages up two. Gives a subtle lurch. With OD off, when cruising without pressing on the gas pedal, it doesn't seem like its runnning in 2 though -- rpms still stay around 2K (like they don't jump to 3K, like they do when running at these high speeds with OD off). It drives fine when in overdrive is off: no lurching, and rpms over 3K all along. Car seems to drive without any issues in city driving. Any ideas?

Here's how to clear the air bag light, http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/lighting/airbaglight.html. Hope that brings an end to all your problems. Great. Can't wait to try it. (I should have looked at Lexls!) Grazie all. (And pics coming soon.)

I think I am largely behind now on this issue. The ALT fuse is the one that was busted -- operator error first time around: this is really hard to tell unless the lighting is just right. Replaced the fuse in and I am good to go. I had taken apart the front to get the alternator out: wasn't bad though and I cleaned a few things out while I was there. Two additional fuses had to be replaced: a 20amp Radio 1 and a 10 amp... (one closest to the engine) -- both these in Junction 2. The fuses in the driver compartment junction all tested good. The only bug that remains is the Air Bag light on the dashboard stays on -- wasn't this way until this episode. Will diagnose this further. Thanx all. Kind of odd that several people (at least one other but seems like there were a couple more) that ran into this same issue because of a similar incident in the last few weeks. If its this common ... I've taken some pics given its not easy to remove the case that holds the 4 fuses (incl ALT). Ping me if anyone needs assistance - least I can do.

More updates: I found out last night that someone did screw up big time jumping the car: the cables were in fact reversed -- as The Kid suspected. (Its another issue why this little detail was left out when I went to the car with the new battery.) So I hope its some fuse somewhere that protected the system and not a major blowout. Any ideas where I can look? I am going to remove the fuse box in Junction 2 and go thru each fuse carefully. Where else can I look and what continuities should I check? (I've reviewed the afore referenced thread blake pointed out.) I will also research this in the manual.

More updates: - I really could not check the voltage, and when I removed the undercover, I noticed a drop of ps fluid hanging on the screw at the base of the alternator. So I preceeded to remove it given I suspect ps leak. - Took it to test it at Schuck's and, well, it tested good. Any comments about the validity of what they do? - Checked the ALT and IGN fuses -- they're good So I am at a loss for what the original problem is. I can check continuity between battery and alternator. BTW, I cleaned the PS Solenoid. It was a little dirty but not unusually so. Suggestions appreciated.

Some updates. - I can see thru the fuse window and believe the fuses are okay. How do you remove these *#$( things? Did not see a puller on there unless I am missing something. Does the whole fuse come out or just the top plastic window. In an attempt to remove it with pliers, I actually popped the top of the 40A (#2 fuse i junction 2) and it looks good. I cleaned the dust off the top windows and am able to see the fuses 1-4 and they all look fine. Unless I am supposed to pull the whole thing out... - I have an aftermarket alternator (Autolite with lifetime warranty). I am not too crazy about it but that's what I got given I need to get the job done this weekend. I am ready to start working on it in another 30 mins. - Before I start ripping this stuff, I will check the charge as suggested. Even before that, I will hit the alternator with a hammer solid... :-) -- warm, wishful thinking in this friggin' cold Seattle weather last several weeks.