master

You can run "fat setup" this is called,

245/40/19 +38ET front and 275/35/19 +38ET offset all around front/rear and you are set

FYI, wheel size 19x8.5 front and 19x9.5rear

Happy hunting

Yeah, i was expecting nothing more, 235whp is not bad at all, which is an avarage for GS400. I think there is potential, i just have to change few litlle things and wheels for sure. Next time i'll go back to stock intake and lighter wheels, also fresh engine, tranny and diff. fluids

I'll let you know how it goes

- Jake

Here's my dyno sheets from today. Car is mostly stock except STR intake, i was running premium gas 93 octane and heavy 19'' wheels, outside temp 77 degr., humidity unknown, elevation (Chicago) unknown

1st run 232whp

2nd run 234whp

3rd run 235whp

Pretty consistant runs tho..

scan0001.pdf

There is no best setup there is only what you want to get out of it.

You want

bigger

lowering clearance of fenders and shocks

comfort

18's in chrome

Your best bet is to get educated on a tire site like tirerack for basics . Offsets is not what causes calipers to rub but the "X-factor" . The GS has normal brakes so they are easy to find a wheel that works .

What do you want to lower it with>?

How low?

I too want to drop my 02 GS 300 and get bigger wheels. I was considering 18"s, but have decided to go to 19"s (I have 17"s on now and want a more dramatic effect). I'm also considering the staggered look. I defintiely want to have at least 225-235s in front and 245s at the rear...or 245s all around.

However, I'm reading that offsets and dropping the car have a relationship, that until now I was not taking into account.

I've gone to Tire Rack's site, but I'm not too crazy about the selection and the ones that I do like, are out of my price range. I've seen wheels that I like on Wheels Next and on Best Wheel's sites.

I don't ever intend to go to bigger brakes, so that's not my concern. But I do want to drop my ride 1-1.5 inches and my first step will be to get lowering springs (either Eiback or Tein). I think the Tein drop is more than the Eibach one, but then the question is, what wheels will I get in order to drop and not have issues?

So, has anyone installed 19"s, staggered, and dropped using Eibach and Tein springs?

Here is my Stagerred set up in 19'' 245/35/19 +38 offset FRONT, 275/30/19 +38 offset REAR. NO rubbing issues whatsoever, wheels are one piece cast. Bought this set 10 months ago brand new, now i want to go different route so they are for sale. Here is some pictures:

1.bmp

2.bmp

GS.bmp

untitled.bmp

How fat is the white (clear) bottom stripe?

You'll be satisfied with TEIN CS, they'll give you great handling and drop if you want, very comfortable and quiet also in your price range of $1200.00.

From my expirience but not only, you'll never regret buying coilovers :)

Heres mine dropped with Older version of Tein CS bout 2'', and 19'' stagerred wheels

GS.bmp

One option is to purchase a wheel/snow tire package from http://www.tirerack.com

I purchased a package with Mille Miglia wheels and Blizzaks for my LS before the winter of 2003 -- have used them through three winters and am still very happy with them.

The Mille Miglia wheels were substantially less expensive (about $115 each at the time) than what the dealer wanted for new car "take-offs". Using narrower wheels and tires in the winter can actually be a plus because doing so focuses the cars weight on smaller tire patches contacting the pavement (or snow). But going to narrower wheels and tires are not usually necessary unless you live in ... like Siberia -- or Toronto, where "SK" lives - LOL.

You will love the Blizzaks which are true snow tires (they have the mountain/snowflake symbol on the sidewall) -- I still can't believe how much better they are than the all-season tires that are also called snow tires by lots of sellers.

Yes, you got it right

If the oil pressure light did not come on, the ONLY effect of running low oil level (quantity) is that its temperature will be higher, as the smaller volume of oil has less rest time in the pan to cool. That's it. No problems at all.

It certainly isn't a good idea to run low oil level, as eventually the light will come on, or flicker, indicating low pressure. Over the long term, excessive oil temperatures will cause it to break down faster, but for 500 miles no big deal.

Don't worry about it.

Thanks lots bro. I was getting a bit worried seeing that my eninge seems to be a bit louder when cold. I hear a flapping sound now.

How many miles on it as of now?

cls..that car is just a monster to me...again, im going off looks and from what i saw when sitting in the car etc...its amazing. 

i just dont like the new gs430...looks wise...looks like 2 other cars ive seen already..the mazda something (6 maybe) and the the new IS...CLS-in a class of its own...sharp looking

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You got it, Mercedes is your baby to go. Just buy what you like so you don't regret later on, but from my expirence YOU'LL PAY MORE TO BUY, AND EVEN MORE TO ENJOY MB.

With Lexus you'll have $20,000K to spend on all mods, makeing it like no other, Even MB won't take you there, with 5-7k you'll make Lexus HEAD TURNER

I wish to have your problem

My info tells me 2.2 hours labor to replace both struts. $76.71 List for each OEM strut. I suppose more if they are aftermarket. Even at $100.00 per hour, three hours labor = $300.00 + $153.42 = 453.42 + tax. $800.00 sounds like a lot of $$$.

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You're right, OEM strut replacement should be no more than $300-$400 (part+labor) sounds to me like Rip OFF !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

CHeck 2 more auto shops, not a dealer, Any shop is able to do it with NO problem and their charge is usualy about $50-$70 per/hour. You need to calm down and take your time to find best possible deal, especially if you don't have to repair struts NOW, besides that you have to replace both LEFT AND RIGHT, unless your budget is very tight as of now, i'm just guessing- but you don't replace brake pads just on ONE wheel? Right?

So, same story with struts!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I have checked KDR auto in Gurnee, unfortunetly they are more into stock cars. If you know people who have experience with aftermarket suspention and some lexus cars knowledge, SHARE WITH ME

i"m selling a 92 lexus sc400  it run & drives the only thing thats wrong with this car is it smokes the trans is perfert its black with tan int,  i"m asking 1500 or o.b.o. -    p.s i don"t have the title i have a bill of sale for the car u can contact me at any time  u can e-mail at bnice05@msn.com         

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You're Weird, ha ha ha

Remember in just 13k miles the timing belt and water pump are recommended to be changed as part of the costly 90k service. So be sure to factor this in to your cost. Is it for sale by a Lexus Dealer? If I am going to buy a Lexus from a Dealer, I would prefer it be from a Dealer who knows the car very well. Have the Dealer run the entire service history. I mostly agree a one owner is better, but I've also seen one owners get very lazy when they know they are getting up there in miles and don't feel like shelling out those Dealer prices or know they'll be dumping it eventually. I'd say if you can have it fully inspected first plus negotiate for the upcoming 90k service then it might be worth considering.

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just remember you are in the drivers seat. they want to sell the car you would be suprised what you can get them to through in. check the service records wheel and deal your 90,000 service in ,and have it checked out by a good mechanic.

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I agree with you, there is alot more you have to inspect, bring your mechanic, this is a must!!!!! Remeber car is being sold "AS IS" condition, after purchase you might not be able to take it back RE/ to "AS IS" condition. TAKE YOUR TIME

I had the same problem when I had my wheels on.  The ball-joint was squeeking and making this noise that sounded like metal rubbing against metal.  It sqeeked at lower speeds and especially in the parking lot, it was so embarassing.  I got both ball-joints replaced and everything is fine.  The ball-joints cost about $100 each at the dealer and another $120 to replace each at a local mechanic.

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120 to replace each ball joint? So, $440=total???

Also, do you think that the bad ball joint(s) could be causing my vibration between 60 and 70 mph or more of an alignment/balancing issue?

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I have paid $60.00 each ball joint at carson toyota and $50.00 labor each.

$60.00x2=$120.00 ball joints

Shipping = $20.00 ball joints

$50.00x2=$100.00 labor

Total = $220.00

Even if labor is more expensive than $100.00, it shouln't be more than $300.00 otherwise i think it's rip off

Cool?

Thanks alot, either one will work well, i know ignorant Lexus dealer in Glenview IL and i don't want to go back there anymore.

I'm located near O'hare airport, Schiller Park IL

I appreciate your HELP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

If you know somebody you can refer? thanks in advance

I have done a ton of searchs and I am pretty sure that I need to replace at least my lower ball joints (I hope that is all) to get this squeaking to stop.  I just wanted to check and see what some other people thought as well. 

I drive a 99 lexus GS400 with 53k on it.  I have only owned it since March of this year and I have a feeling the guy that owned it before me drove it harder than your normal grandpa as it was lowered and given bigger/wider rims and an exhaust package was added.  Not to mention, I don't drive it like a grandpa by any means.  I especially notice the squeaking at low speeds in parking lots even when hitting the smallest of bumps and cracks.  It is much more noticeable in colder weather I have noticed as well.  A loud squeaking bed is the best I can describe the sound and I only hear it when actaully hitting a cracck or bump in the road.  If I am just cruising on a nice smooth road, no noise.

Again, I am pretty sure it is ball joints and like I said, I hope just the lower joints.  Any coments/confirmation or suggestions are welcomed and greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance!

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Take vehicle for inspection to any trusted auto shop, it doesn't cost alot. I belive that squeaking comes from bad bushings or/and shocks. Worned ball joints make more clunking/clicking noise when hitting a cracck or bump. I'm sure inspection of your suspention by auto shop and/or yourself if much more accurate than speculating. Anyway lower ball joints are cheap, $60.00 or so each one + labor will turn in about $220.00-$250.00 total, and you better pray that is none of upper control arms which goes for about $350.00 each but i dont think they are not problem in your case. Good luck to you.

P.S I just went thru seriuos suspention issues which are not fully solved, i'm at $1100.00 as of now and there is some more stuff to fix, uhhh :cries:

I'm getting confused, I have replaced most of front end suspention parts AND STILL CICKING NOISE IS P***** ME OFF. I think there is one more thing i forgot to check: STEERING RACK!!!!!

Do you have any knowledge about this?

Is there any way to adjust that crap?

Dealer maybe?

I have took closer look at susp. today, and nothing, i could find. Everthing is so tight, I HAVE NO IDIA WHAT TO LOOK FOR

I NEED YOUR ADVICE!!!!!!!!!!

I'm getting confused, I have replaced most of front end suspention parts AND STILL CICKING NOISE IS P***** ME OFF. I think there is one more thing i forgot to check: STEERING RACK!!!!!

Do you have any knowledge about this?

Is there any way to adjust that crap?

Dealer maybe?

I have took closer look at susp. today, and nothing, i could find. Everthing is so tight, I HAVE NO IDIA WHAT TO LOOK FOR

I NEED YOUR ADVICE!!!!!!!!!!

I'm getting confused, I have replaced most of front end suspention parts AND STILL CICKING NOISE IS P***** ME OFF. I think there is one more thing i forgot to check: STEERING RACK!!!!!

Do you have any knowledge about this?

Is there any way to adjust that crap?

Dealer maybe?

I have took closer look at susp. today, and nothing, i could find. Everthing is so tight, I HAVE NO IDIA WHAT TO LOOK FOR

I NEED YOUR ADVICE!!!!!!!!!!

i'm still waiting for my CD's (repair manual) but i have to review all that stuff now, before weekend ends. Thanks in advance

I have the same problem with my 2000.  I went from stock wheels and OEM tires to 19 inch Volk Racing wheels and 30/35 series Yokohama tires.  The steering wheel vibrates bad starting at 60 mph up to 68 - 70mph, and then it goes away, but not totally.  Same thing with braking, vibration.  I have done some research on this and talk to several different people who all say that if you change OEM wheels and tires on a Lexus it will vibrate no matter what you do.  I have center rings on all of my wheels and they have been balanced several times and even balanced up to 70 MPH.  Most tire shops will only balance up to 35-40 mph if even that fast.  Has anyone found a solution to this problem?

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I do have 19'' wheels not even as good as volks and i just started my journey with them. I know it's pain in a** to get them balanced really well.

My tip for you:

If your brakes and wheels have been checked for any possible defects, in my opinion there is only one problem you have to fix: UPPER AND LOWER BALL JOINTS AND BUSHINGS, IF ALL OF THEM OR JUST SOME PARTS ARE LOOSE, DAMAGED ROAD WILL CAUSE LOOSE PARTS TO VIBRATE(MOVE) AND YOUR STEARING WHEEL TOO.

This is how i have fixed steering wheel vibration on my '00 GS400.

It doesn't cost alot of money to have it checked- if that wont work i think it is wheel or tire issue

My $0.02

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Thanks Master I will have my mechanic check all of them tomarrow. I hope and pray that is the problem.

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Yeah, no problem man, The only problem is that some parts are pricey, i've spent lil over 1K to fix my suspention and i got my car 2-3 months ago with 70K on it, WELL- I LOVE MY CAR ANYWAY

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Let us see the beauty, show her off. Where are the pictures?

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I have done pretty bad job with pic's, i'm not comp geek just go back to page#6, there is my post:Bad pic's, but nice car. I know it's a shame but i can't be the best in all i do. Most important is that i make my wife and car feel the BEST , right?

I have the same problem with my 2000.  I went from stock wheels and OEM tires to 19 inch Volk Racing wheels and 30/35 series Yokohama tires.  The steering wheel vibrates bad starting at 60 mph up to 68 - 70mph, and then it goes away, but not totally.  Same thing with braking, vibration.  I have done some research on this and talk to several different people who all say that if you change OEM wheels and tires on a Lexus it will vibrate no matter what you do.  I have center rings on all of my wheels and they have been balanced several times and even balanced up to 70 MPH.  Most tire shops will only balance up to 35-40 mph if even that fast.  Has anyone found a solution to this problem?

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I do have 19'' wheels not even as good as volks and i just started my journey with them. I know it's pain in a** to get them balanced really well.

My tip for you:

If your brakes and wheels have been checked for any possible defects, in my opinion there is only one problem you have to fix: UPPER AND LOWER BALL JOINTS AND BUSHINGS, IF ALL OF THEM OR JUST SOME PARTS ARE LOOSE, DAMAGED ROAD WILL CAUSE LOOSE PARTS TO VIBRATE(MOVE) AND YOUR STEARING WHEEL TOO.

This is how i have fixed steering wheel vibration on my '00 GS400.

It doesn't cost alot of money to have it checked- if that wont work i think it is wheel or tire issue

My $0.02

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Thanks Master I will have my mechanic check all of them tomarrow. I hope and pray that is the problem.

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Yeah, no problem man, The only problem is that some parts are pricey, i've spent lil over 1K to fix my suspention and i got my car 2-3 months ago with 70K on it, WELL- I LOVE MY CAR ANYWAY

I have the same problem with my 2000.  I went from stock wheels and OEM tires to 19 inch Volk Racing wheels and 30/35 series Yokohama tires.  The steering wheel vibrates bad starting at 60 mph up to 68 - 70mph, and then it goes away, but not totally.  Same thing with braking, vibration.  I have done some research on this and talk to several different people who all say that if you change OEM wheels and tires on a Lexus it will vibrate no matter what you do.  I have center rings on all of my wheels and they have been balanced several times and even balanced up to 70 MPH.  Most tire shops will only balance up to 35-40 mph if even that fast.  Has anyone found a solution to this problem?

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I do have 19'' wheels not even as good as volks and i just started my journey with them. I know it's pain in a** to get them balanced really well.

My tip for you:

If your brakes and wheels have been checked for any possible defects, in my opinion there is only one problem you have to fix: UPPER AND LOWER BALL JOINTS AND BUSHINGS, IF ALL OF THEM OR JUST SOME PARTS ARE LOOSE, DAMAGED ROAD WILL CAUSE LOOSE PARTS TO VIBRATE(MOVE) AND YOUR STEARING WHEEL TOO.

This is how i have fixed steering wheel vibration on my '00 GS400.

It doesn't cost alot of money to have it checked- if that wont work i think it is wheel or tire issue

My $0.02

i dcfish do you still have a copy of the repair manuals on cd like youve said before , just wondering, maybe if you can spare me one copy  ive got to check out a buddys gs300, i may need some info,

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Sure, I'll send you a set. PM me with your address I'll send them out tommorrow.

The manual covers 1983-2000 all TOYOTA/LEXUS vehicles.

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I'll need that manual too, willing to pay fair price + shipping, can you get me a copy?