TLDG

I have replaced the relay twice, one OEM purchased from a dealership (very expensive) and one purchased from an auto parts store (slighly less expensive). The problem returns within 30 days or less. I even removed the cover from the original relay and cleaned the contact points, thinking that perhaps the relay actually operated but carbon build-up on the contact points from arcing prevented the electrical connection. This also did not cure the problem. I have isolated the relay at fault to a certainty, so it is not a matter of multiple relays.

If your vehicle has High Intensity Discharge (HID) bulbs the problem may be in the "ballast" unit. Unlike regular lamps, the HID bulbs are powered by a ballast unit that is also located in the headlamp assembly. If so equipped, there will be a single "fat" cable that attaches to the rear of the bulb instead of a normal socket with multiple small wires. Note: Be careful not to touch the HID bulb itself with your bare fingers as the oil from your skin can cause bulb failure (some dispute this precaution, but why take the chance). By the way, a dealership will charge 6 or 8 times the price for a new ballast unit over what will cost from an independent supplier. However, a dealership may also refuse to install customer supplied parts, even if they are genuine OEM, so be sure there is a clear understanding. Some independent repair shops have a silimar policy but are usually more willing to accoumodate the customer when the part is not directly related to vehicle safety, like brakes or suspension. If you travel away from home a great deal and your car has HID headlights, I recommend you carry a spare ballast with you, as it is a part that may not be readily available at local parts stores and it is small enough to fit in the center colsole or glove box or somewhere in the trunk.

I did not replace the timing belt on my ES300 until well after 100,000 miles, so I think your worries are virtually nil. My understanding is that the V6 engine in not an "interference" design, which means that even in the extremely unlikely event the timeng belt were to fail, the pistons will not strike the valves, so while the engine will stop running, no seriious internal damage will occur. Most repair shops, and I think dealerships as well, will recommend that when replacing the timing belt, the water pump, belt idler and tensioner pulleys, front crankshaft seal, and camshart seals also be replace as preventative maintence. The additional cost is moderate, especially when compared to having to essentially repeat the entire process should one of the aforementioned parts fail in the near future. Getting it all done at one time is far cheaper and will give you far greater peace of mind for future trips.

I am curious if anyone else has experienced this problem and if any permanent remedy was found: I have a 2000 ES300 with 143,000 miles, but the problem has existed for several years. Sometimes, and it appears to be purely random, the relay that controls the electric radiator cooling fans and the A/C compressor magnetic clutch, which is located in the fuse box in the engine compartment by the left fender, sticks and does not allow the cooling fans or A/C clutch to operate. I have replaced the relay, which costs upwards of $60, more than once, which only seems to be a temporary fix, lasting for 30 days or so. Now when the relay sticks I open the hood and give the fuse box a firm smack with the palm of my hand (not kidding, LOL), and the cooling fans start immediately and the A/C clutch engages. I can tell when the relay is stuck because when stopped at a traffic light, the engine temperature will rise and the A/C does not cool the air. When driving, even at moderate speeds, the emgine temperature remains normal because of natural airflow but the A/C compressor is still inoperative. Turning the A/C off and back on does not cause the relay to operate, the only solution I have found is the aforementioned "corporal punisment" administered to the fuse box. A technician at the independant shop that performs repairs and maintenance on my car stated he had seen this same problem once before, but had no solution for it. I live in Las Vegas, where atmospheric temperature exceed 100 degrees on a regular basis, the problem seems to occur more frequently on hot days, but has occurred in cooler weather as well. In fact, on warm or hot days when I start my car I open the hood and smack the fuse box before even exiting my driveway on a regular basis just to be sure the fans will be working once the engine has reached operating temperature. When making multiple short trips running errands to the post office and grocery store, the relay may operate properly or stick on a totally random basis each time I start the engine. OK, now that some of you (I suspect) have had a chuckle evisioning me slapping the fusebox in the parking lot of the grocery store, do any of you know a real solution to this problem?

A quick search of this forum shows that this topic has been discussed before, but not for a while, and I would like to approach it from a perhaps a different angle. I am referring to the little silver, one inch by three inch fender badge for the Lexus Platinum Series vehicles of the late 90's to early 2000's. I would suspect that there are a number of Lexus owners whose cars had these badges on them and who, like myself, are searching for replacements because they have fallen off, been torn off by a car wash, or are missing because of body shop repairs. I am considering having my car repainted, and would like to be able to put the fender badges back on. The factory part has not been available for several years and other threads on this site suggest tring to find some in a salvage yard. Has anyone attempted to have some new badges made? My first thought was that perhaps a thophy shop might be able to reproduce them, but I have been unable to find a trophy shop that can do it. The best they can do is to produce a flat metal plaques and not in the silver color of the originals. Any insight on this would be appreciated.

I have a 2000 Lexus ES300 with 143,000 miles on the clock. For the past couple of years the engine check light would come on with a P768 code, which indices the transmission is in the wrong gear for the current speed. It is generally diagnosed as a faulty "D" solenoid in the transmission, but in my case I do not think that is true. I bought a diagnostic tool that plugs in under the steering column and lets me reset / erase the code and turn the check engine light off. However, upon restarting the engine, and with the car absolutely stationary, upon moving the gear selector from Park to Reverse (or any other position) the light comes back on (sometimes). I have driven the car across the country with the light remaining off for hundreds, even thousands of miles, only to have it come on after a fuel stop. It seems totally random, and the transmission actually shifts correctly. Also the problem does not seem to occur until the engine temperature has warmed up at least slightly. Even with aroung the town driving or short trips to the post office or supermarket, the light may remain off for days or weeks and at other times will come on repeatedly. Has anyone else encountered a similar problem? I am inclined to think there is just a loose wiring connection somewhere but at current labor costs a techician might spend several hours searching for the problem and never find it. I would appreciate any insight from others who have experienced this problem and what was done to correct it.