teamer

I think it happens when you change the Tranny Fluid. I had the same problem and the only thing I can think of is that the new fluid has a much thicker viscosity and protection than the old one that the fluid pressures are higher and thus you will feel the downshifting more. The same thing happened when I flushed my new Mazda MPV van after 39,000 miles at the dealer. The car would slow down after I let off the gas - almost like the engine would drag - but I'm pretty sure its the new transmission fluid.

Anyone else have this experience after flushing out the old with the new tranny fluid?

Thanks,

TEAMER

ONLY TOYOTA TYPE-IV IN THE TRANNY

and my 97 does the same "decelerating" thing. 40-70ish MPH. It's like down shifting in a manual and engine braking. the RPMs pop back up to normal when I get down to 40 MPH and 1000 RPM. But now it's EVERY time i take my foot 100% off the throttle. It's getting very annoying...

I still haven't gotten many clues to what the problem may be...

I also have a small leak in my EGR piping. Would that be causing it?

Steve,

Can you please provide info for this VIN?

VIN:

1Y1SK5284WZ412022

Thanks!

Teamer

Blake,

Sorry to hear about your accident. I'm sure you were thankful to be in a "crash cushion" (LS400). That LS saved your life!

I'm sure glad to be driving around in mine knowing how well it protects in a crash.

I know you mentioned that the engine is pretty much gone. Would you be able to remove the rear (after CAT) O2 sensors? I would be very interested in them. Please PM me or email me here: dtsang@halff com Let me know how much - I'll pay for them + shipping.

Thanks!

Teamer

I will need to change mine soon.

I heard that using non-OEM O2 sensors (particularly "universal" ones) may ruin engine electronics if the amperage is not matched.

I priced the OEM ones and they cost and un-believable $257 each! Yikes!!!

I am very curious to know if you get any codes later down the line. Hopefully not.

Please let us know how your car is doing as you build on the miles...

Thanks!!

TEAMER

Thomas,

How much for your old O2 sensors? I am looking for all 4 (2 Main & 2 Minor). Wires & clips all intact - no wire cutting. Thanks!

TEAMER

Parting out a white 1993 LS400, no hood, bumper, or headlights. Most everything else is there, but I will be using some small stuff for my car. Has chrome 16" wheels. If you are interested in anything, please contact me directly instead of replying to this thread. Thank you,

Thomas Ahart

Kansas City area

(913) 563-6797

thomas.ahart(at)gmail.com

Still have the car? Mywhite 93 was rear-ended Saturday and I may be attempting a rebuild with the insurance money. Would need tail light assemblies, rear bumper cover, rear bumper, trunk lid.

PM sent

Hi,

Since you are having the misfire problems after the plug, wires, cap (ignition) system replacement, I am more likely to believe that the wires were improperly installed.

Generally, if plug wires are too close together, they will cause electro-magnetic interference with each other and will throw off your timing (hence, resulting in misfires, etc..) I wanna guess that the wire installation is the culprit. Which is why another member attached the pdf wiring diagram - it has to be exact as he says.

Nonetheless, I would recommend taking your LS to another dealership that is more competent - although you would be paying more money(since it does require a bit of labor to get to the plugs). I am shocked that they messed it up - a Lexus dealership should not be making that mistake! I'm sure you paid alot of money having that work done and they should fix it at no additional cost! But, you would be taking another chance of an incompetent service.

Hope you find out the solution soon,

TEAMER

Hello,

I have a 90 LS400 with 108k miles (engine and transmission are in great condition).

I recently "flushed" out the tranny fluid (Toyota T-IV) on my 90LS using the "cooler line to radiator" method.

After flushing, I tried driving it, but, as you know you have to slowly shift gears back & forth to allow the new fluid to work it's way internally. After a few tries, I was able to drive away and drove for about 10 miles.

I checked the fluid levels a few days after and had to re-fill a little bit (til all fluids fully circulated through the transmission).

Now, I noticed that when I start & drive the car (engine cold) sometimes the transmission would "slip" occasionally. When I say slip, I mean it would shift gears (rpms go up & down) when I am at a stop or rolling to a stop. After the car reaches normal operating temperatures, the problem goes away.

But, I am concerned because it never did that before the tranny fluid change. The old tranny fluid was actually ok (clear red) before I changed it, but, I wanted to flush it out since I recently bought it and I have no service history regarding the fluid.

Perhaps I may not have allowed the fluid to circulate enough before driving it 10 miles (causing damage to the internals)?

Has anyone tried this or encountered similar problems?

Maybe someone with transmission experience can chime in.

Thanks!

TEAMER

Jim,

I used to live in Massachusetts - Newton/Boston - too bad, we could've swapped had I been there!

The brand I have are Yokohamas, but, again, it doesn't matter what brand of tire - it was the alignment that caused the problem. If your car is not properly aligned, your tires (no matter how great they are) will wear un-evenly and eventually will give you that vibration at certain speeds. So even if your tires are re-balanced perfectly, if they are already worn un-evenly it won't change anything.

Hope you find the cause of the problem soon - I know how annoying it is to hear that noise when driving-especially in a car that was designed to be quiet.

Cheers!

Teamer

Jim,

I have the same problem you have and for me it was the tires.

The tires, although you re-balanced them, maybe improperly worn - meaning you may have a slight alignment problem. If this is the case, you could not detect it with the naked eye just by looking at the tires. It might be slightly off than ideal and this could cause vibration problems at certain speeds (due to harmonic vibrations).

I know you might not have spare tires available, but, as a test, I would replace all 4 wheels temporarily and drive it and see if there's a difference. This could save you the costly expense of replacing motor mounts, transmission mounts, driveline axles, etc. only to find out that it was just the tires...

If you happen to know of another friend with an LS400 year 90-92, and he/she would allow you to swap tires, then this might be a cost effective test to troubleshoot.

It would be a shame if spent money on parts that did not need to be replaced.

Just my 2 cents... Hope you can find out the root of the problem...Good luck....

Teamer

larryp, Thanks for the response.

I know that plug wires get worn from high heat and usage and results in higher resistance which does not give the full current to the plugs. Similarly, the distributor - cap and rotor wears out over time which also affects the current output.

I've been told that the distributor (entire assembly-cap & rotor) should be replaced when you replace plug wires (every 100,000 to 150,000 miles).

Since these are relatively low cost (especially on US domestic models), I think it is a good idea. However, I was shocked to find out that Lexus charges over $800 for the distributor when they normally sell for $50-$60.

I know the old adage, " if it ain't broke, don't fix it" may apply for some things. However, I think in this case, it does affect your performance and if it keeps your engine running at peak conditions, then I think it's worth it.

Has anyone ever changed their Distributor, Cap & Rotor on their LS400? Mine has over 108k miles and since it has over 100k, I think it would be best to replace the Distributor Cap + Rotor along with the plug wires. I've seen posts about changing the wires+plugs, but, strangely I have not seen anyone talk about changing out their Distributor, Cap & Rotor.

I was planning to buy OEM, but when I called the dealer, they told me it would cost over $800 just for the distributor alone.

Aftermarket - prices are much more reasonable - but, I do not know how well these would work if they were aftermarket. Some brands I've seen are Bosch, Beck Arnley, etc..

Any experience with these?

Thanks!

TEAMER

Might also be your power steering pump (especially if it is leaking). My dad's 91 LS400 pump started going and it made the same sound at start up. After the pump was replaced, the sound went away.

Frustrating. I bought my 90 LS400 recently and noticed it too on mine. There is a way to adjust it. You have to take off the rubber plate on the car (not the filler door) surrounding the filler pipe. Once you get the rubber piece off, you should see two major bolts that hold the door hinge. Loosen the 2 bolts and you should be able to adjust the door.

Not sure how it got off center, but, I know my car was repainted (perhaps due to an accident from previous owners) and the paint shop did not put it back on right. My guess....

Hope this helps...

The following from the manual for a 1994 may help you (pages 6 & 14):

oilpump.pdf

LScott400, THANKS So Much! Really Appreciate it!!

-TEAMER

Hello,

I am about to change my oil pan gasket since it is already leaking. Talked to dealer, they say there is no gasket- you must use RTV sealant. Is this true?

If so, does anyone know the torque specifications/ratings for each bolt?

Thanks!

TEAMER

Casting dates are usually in circle or grid formation. Usually its 2 digits lik 89 90 91 92 93 94 00 03 04 06 There will be a a 9 for examble is 1999. A 0 is 00. Then there are a split pie in 12 partitions. These are usually marked...signifying month. This marking I found on the cast metal water pump was a 90 with a bunch of checks. Unless someone used OLD stock pump this is original. if it had been like 96 or later.. i would assume changed..

Could be a rebuilt pump.

true, but i was not aware of these being rebuilt.

Erich, can you send me any photos of your water pump/job?

dtsang@halff.com

Thanks!

Stephanie did the timing belt and water pump on our recently purchased 1991 LS400. The car has 230k miles, and we purchased KNOWING It needed both. On the way up to the shop the belt snapped!

Upon taking it all apart we found all tensioner parts SIEZED! The pump SIEZED. I checked the casting date on the pump to find a 1990 mid/late casting. This tells me its most likely original, and never done. So basically this car went 230k miles on original belt!

The cars back together and you will be seeing more of it as its getting fixed up.

Wow, Erich, that is an incredible amount of miles for the original belt and water pump! Some parts can go incredibly long! Do you have any pics of the water pump? I have a 90 LS400 (108k mi), the previous owner claimed that the belt and pump was replaced. Not sure how to check once I remove all the engine covers. If you can take a pic of where the casting date is located, please post or send to me: dtsang@halff com. I would love to see photos of your belt job.

Thanks!

I had a complete power steering system replacement done on my 96 ls about a month ago. Afterwards, I noticed a steering wheel vibration at 50-60 mph. The dealer had noted that I needed new strut rods, motor and tranny mounts, and rear knuckle bushings. Had my indie do all that work a couple of weeks ago. I had the tires rotated and balanced today thinking that may be the problem (I never had a vibrating wheel problem prior to the remanned rack). The tires are balanced perfectly. Is this a possible symptom of a bad remanned rack?

Sounds like your alignment was not done properly. Anytime a power steering rack is replaced, you have to have an alignment done. If your alignment is off - you will definitely get some vibration. I would check your alignment first or have someone else (not the person who did the steering rack work-in case they don't admit it was wrong in the first place) check it. Hope this helps...

I recently bought a 90 LS with 108k miles. Previous owner claims that timing belt was changed. I am guessing that the water pump was replaced as well. There are no service records for these items. Is there a way to physically check if the parts are newer or replaced? I know I can probably get away with the timing belt - if it broke, but the water pump is something I do not want to take a chance.

Are there any indications (symptoms) that a water pump might fail or is getting close to that point?

Thanks!

-David

Not only does how aggressively you drive affects the life of the belt but, the following affects it too:

1) Environment- Extreme temperatures (cold or hot climates) & Humidity

2) Manufacturing consistency

Since the belt is made of rubber, it can dry rot or degrade based on the conditions it is placed in.

My dad has a 91 LS with 93k on the north east (New York City) and it still has the original belt. He will probably drive it until it breaks and then replace it with a new one.

I love non-interence engines!!

91LS400vgb, was your car ever in a previous accident? The reason I ask is because if it was, sometimes the electrical system may get damaged in the accident and it is very tough to diagnose where there may be a short.

Just a thought. I know your symptoms- I've seen other LS400s of that generation (my dad owns one) that have the same or similar problem. I've often wondered if it is simply a problem that comes with age of the car (electrical system deterioration - corrosion) or the vehicle was in an accident that damaged the electrical contacts.

Curious to find out...

No problem, Arkansawyer, and thanks for your post. Actually, one of the first things I tried was replacing all my bulbs with new ones I purchased from a Lexus dealer as that is what remedied an almost identical problem I once had with my 1989 Camry (see original post). However, it didn't fix it this time. Btw, my taillamp failure indicator usually only goes on (and stays on) when I press on the brakes the first time while the headlights are on. The failure light does not go on during the day (as the headlights are not on).

I think it's still a good idea for you to try replacing your bulbs with genuine toyota ones. Let me know how it turns out.

Hi,

I read your post and know your frustrations.

Did you read the similar post by 914lps- "No Start, No Fuel, No spark-What killed my 91 LS 400" very recently? This person had similar condition where the car could not start when it was warm. The problem that was finally discovered was a broken harmonic balancer.

Have you had your balancer checked out?

Hang in there, I know you spent alot of money, but the car you own has a great reputation for longevity and reliability. It just takes one discovery to solve a big problem.

-David

Thanks for the advice guys, I already read the procedure and i'm having a buddy of mine that is very good w/ cars help me out w/ it. Lets hope this fix's the problem =)

Also I highly recommend that you install a LEXUS OEM part. I bought an aftermarket one and tried to install on my 91 LS and it was a nightmare! The threads were not exactly matched and after an hour of fuel spilling onto my arms and shoulders I ended up putting the original back on and having to buy another filter. It was truly a nightmare.

ALSO - HIGHLY RECOMMENDED- before you try to remove the old filter, REMOVE the GAS Filler CAP!!! This will release the back pressure from the fuel so that it does not continually shoot out when you try to install new filter!!!

Best Wishes and let us know how it came out!

Can you get the hood and drivers side front fender if they are in good condition?

How much for the driver's side fender and hood?

Are they in good condition? (No previous accidents)

Thanks!