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this is from experience from a LS430 if you pull the speed sensor, you need to clean it up and place it back very carefully to align it back to aim at the spokes on the shaft. if it has a protective metal cover, you must ensure this is aligned and squashed back properly. aiming it is very awkward and i don't know how to replicate how i successfully did it. it required some stiff plastic tubing, lots of pictures from a camera and carefully tightening it afterwards. if you are off by even a slight degree and it isn't aimed properly, you may have to start all over again. this is time consuming if you don't get it right because you need to jack up the car, remove the wheel, mess with it, put the wheel back on, remove the jack, clear the code, try again. you'll need to get some wire, preferably from a paperclip into the OBD2 ports. this should trigger a diagnostic and reset. hopefully it clears. give it a drive and pray you aligned it properly.

Hi. My rear suspension seems to be uneven. The left side (US driver side) is riding about an inch higher than the right side (US passenger side). Between the gap of the rear tyre and the arch, I can stick my 4 fingers and thumb into the left side. In comparison the right side, I can only stick four fingers in the gap. I'm struggling to figure out what could possibly be causing this. I've recently replaced the right side strut and left side bearing and upper control arm. However neither of these things seem to be the reason why the left air suspension seems to be inflating more than the right. There doesn't seem to be a leak or inflation issues, because I can flick the height to high and it will inflate fine, except with the unevenness. I've adjusted the left side height sensor, but this seems to lower or raise both sides. I remember reading that the right side sensor only adjusts the light beams, not the height. Should I adjust the right side height sensor? Or should I seek professional help in regards to height adjustment and rear wheel alignment and tracking? I cannot provide a picture as of current. It does not look apparent visually anyway.

There's a weird quirk with the LS430 where there seems to be plenty of front suspension options but a lack of rear suspension replacements. so replacement of your front strut should be relatively easy. I think one of the highest quality air struts you can find will be Arnott suspension struts. Be aware they're very expensive. Easily will cost $1000~ each rear strut. a huge problem with the air suspension struts is the apparent complete inability to repair or replace the rubber bladders themselves, especially without equipment costing over $20k+ otherwise your alternatives are coil springs.

Two years on, I've had to do some replacements. While I was down there, I got some photographs. This is the old nasty rod arm. It's heavily worn out and barely moves. After a bit of struggle with a 10mm wrench, I managed to break both nuts free. Be careful when removing the upper nut as the sensor arm may wobble. You don't want to damage the sensor assembly. Here's the new height arm added on. This is the 220 320 00 32. If you look carefully at the pipe clamp, you will notice the remnants of the past, rusted height adjusting slider. This is where you want to place your clamp. You need a small, thin 9mm wrench to tighten the balljoint on the rod, especially if you are using 10mm nyloc nuts like I am. I hope these late photos help anyone who plans to use this welderless fix.

Hi. Just posting here, to document some data. Hope it gets onto the search engine listings. With helpful advice for anyone replacing these parts For rear upper control arm (driver POV/looking at the back of the car) LEFT SIDE 48790-59045 RIGHT SIDE 48770-59065 Balljoint Balljoint bolt size: M12 Pitch: 1.25 Nut size: 19MM Front side bolt 90105-12327 Rear side bolt 90105-12326 Bolt Bolt size: M12 Bolt pitch: 1.25 Bolt strength grade: 11 Bolt length is measured WITHOUT HEAD, WITH FLANGE. Front side: 85mm Rear side: 75mm Bolt must be partially threaded. Bolt thread length: 25mm (more is OK). Nut size: 17mm REPLACEMENT SHOPPING LIST: 1* M12 1.25 Pitch grade 10.9 bolt size 80mm 1* M12 1.25 Pitch grade 10.9 bolt size 90mm 3* M12 1.25 Pitch nut 5* M12 washer Optional: Copper grease Threadlocker Suggested replacement advice: Balljoint bolt is notorious for being damaged/difficult to tighten. Do not attempt to use a die as the balljoin will spin loose. Get a bolt file with a 1.25mm pitch and file bolts if necessary. If the balljoint nut is warped or damaged, replace it. If you cannot find a exact replacement, use a washer and M12 1.25 pitch nut. Replace rear and front side bolts with grade 11 or 10.9 bolts. If you cannot find 85mm and 75mm bolts, get 90 and 80mm bolts and use two good quality washers. Apply copper grease anti seize to the tubing to prevent problems. Do not use Nyloc nuts. They will be extremely tedious and time consuming to remove in the future. Avoid angle grinding or cutting partially threaded bolts to size. This will reduce the minimum thread and compromise the bolt.

Hi. Some friends of mine suggested that I should post this here for more people to see. Hopefully it'll help people for years to come. You will need: About 50 bucks budget for the balljoint rod and the pipe clamp. Height sensor with bracket. 10mm wrench Washers that fit 10mm/M6 bolts. 10mm/M6 nuts Some smaller (8mm wrench) I own a 2001 LS430. The height sensor control arm's slider has rusted and become damaged over the last 19 or so years. The ball joint rod to the height sensor has also seized too. The height adjustment rod there in the red was seized, and the height slider in the blue was badly corroded and broken off. Rather than buy an entire control arm (green) this is an alterative method to repair it The arm is ~26mm in diameter. Buy yourself one of these pipe clamps in 26mm diameter. Or make one. Shouldn't be expensive. The hole needs to fit a M6/10mm bolt. Grind off the remnants of that slider from the control arm, and slide the pipe clamp over, and put your 10mm/M6 bolt and nut through and secure it in place where the slider used to be. Rather than using the control arm as a slider, we can instead use a sliding ball joint rod such as this one; This is a 220 320 00 32 from Mercedes - a height adjustment rod with a 8mm locking and a 10mm/M6 ball joint bolt. You can pick one up off eBay for cheap. Or find some other M6/10mm adjustable ball joint rod. Look at the diagram and try to imagine it in your head. This is what your bracket and rod/clamps should look like. One day I might snap a picture of what my repair looks like, but I hope you can make out what I mean via the diagram. This repair should be very easy. Maybe some sanding/grinding and surface preperation. The clamp will hold on tight and is easy to replace. The adjustable link rod will last longer and allow for easy adjustment, and less risk of corrosion damage. Hope this helps. This is a fairly easy job and took me less than 2 or so hours to do.

Well. This was a very old post from about 6 months ago now. We figured out we required TechStream and a Toyota OBDII cable both which were purchased online. We were able to program the keys to start the car, but not the remote functions.

Hello. I've picked up two (presumably used) keys from eBay both working at a low price from the same seller. The keys apparently were 2001, and look the same. My car is 2001 LS430, UCF30R-AEAGKW; Europe, Right hand drive, 3UZFE, 5 speed automatic, and apparently Ultraluxury edition (but without parking sensors). Is there a way to program these to start the car and function identical or similar to the only master key I have? Picture attached. Left to right; Purchased key 1, Purchased key 2, Functioning master key.