Flashjet

I just drove my SC400 over the 100,000 mark and put two new tires on the front. I also decided it was time to send some pictures in. I purchased the Forest Green 1997 SC400 in 2005 with 70,000 miles on it from a small used car lot in the Austin, Texas area. The paint was dull, the antenna was all bent up and it had some paint chips on the front hood showing the miles driven. My guess is the first owner had driven the car into an automatic car wash and forgot to put the antenna down. I paid $12,999.00 for it. It drove very tight. First thing I did was to replace the antenna. It cost $15.00 off eBay. It was simple to put in and I am no mechanic! The dull finish I am guessing is from many trips through an automatic car wash and never being waxed or polished. I went to work on improving that....and I mean work! I used Dawn dish washing detergent to make sure all grease was off the car. I then clayed the car. I then started to build the polishing coats on. I used Zaino Pro-2. I put on 8 coats and had been using Z-6 detail polish between coats. Each coat improved the shine but it just would not POP like a new car shine. Then Zaino came out with Z-8 detail polish and I put another couple of coats on with Z-8 in between. That did it. It now has that wet shine look that is as or better than new of the showroom floor look. Check the pictures! I had to replace the starter about a month after getting it. That was $1,000.00. I had the transmission fluid replaced and replaced the tires with Goodyear F1s. The difference, especially in wet weather, was incredible! I also replaced the torque converter to the Dragon from Precision Industries $700.00. That made a huge improvement in off the line performance. "She drives like a corvette now" was the comment from the guy who did the work to put the Dragon torque converter in. He first thought I was nuts and that it wouldn't make that much difference. He drove it and he just couldn't believe it made such a huge difference. Before the change, at most a chirp is all I could get out of her off the line. And it didn't always even chirp. Now I can turn over the tires at will. The top end is unchanged as it was great from the start. I failed to watch the alignment as I thought I would be able to feel if she was in need of alignment. Not so as I had both front tires look from the outside like there was no wear only to have both insides wear past the first belt threads! So, four years after I purchased it, you now know what I got. :D

I also own a 1997 SC400. Not as nice as yours. I had some chips on the hood and tried to use touch-up paint on them. It now looks like big boogers dot my hood. It is a dark forest green. I need to clean it up as it has bothered me ever since I did it. Help on how to do that without going to a body shop would be welcome. I did switch out the torque converter to the Dragon, what a difference that made! Otherwise, she is all stock and in great condition with just turning 100K.

Speaking for the RX: the origin etc... is on a label on the driver's side door jamb. If the VIN starts with "J", the car was made in Japan. If it starts with a "G" that means what?

I have been trying to determine where my SC400 was made. I had read on the forum that the SC400s made in Japan have a governor to limit their speed to 119 mph and that those made in the USA do not have that governor. So other than running my SC400 over the 119 limit, is there a way to determine where the auto was manufactured? Does the VIN provide for that info? Thanks for your help.

All I know is that before, with the stock torque converter, she was slow off the line. This is where the lag in movement was. Now, with the Dragon torque converter there is no lag, she moves! Before, from a dead stop and just flooring it, she would rev up and the most I could get was a chirp from the tires. Now I floor it at a dead stop and she will scream for 8 to 10 seconds. Lag? I don't notice any lag. If there is lag, you could just do a brake torque to eliminate it. I hope that helps. If you want the technical data on the torque converter, go to Precision Industrial and they can cover you with numbers.

On the highway there was no difference in gas mileage. By this I mean stick on the cruise control at 70 and let her go. I get 21 mpg. Around town it may have dropped just a bit. But I think it has more to do with my 'style' of driving. If you know you are probably going to get killed off the line then you don't even bother.... :( :D But now it is so fun to win most all of the time.....well you know what I mean. :D

:D I have a '97 SC400 and have a bit more stock power than your '93 but the off-the-line performance is SO MUCH BETTER after replacing the torque converter! I was sick of being walked away from by just about every thing out there. Now I run off the line and see most everyone in the rearview mirror with the increased performance from just replacing the torque converter! The top end was always there and is not affected. This is the single most beneficial upgrade you can do. I am very pleased with the mod! :D :D :D I got the Dragon torque converter by Precision Industries. Here is the link: http://www.converter.com/dragon.htm

I just replaced the stock torque converter and put in a Dragon Torque Converter. This mod is boss! The huge difference is the off the line performance. My SC400 now is off the line like a Corvette and the top end is unchanged. I don't know anything about the short ram intake mod you listed, but changing to a Dragon Torque Converter sure put a big smile on my face! Flashjet

I own a 97 SC400 and it is approaching 90,000 miles. The manual says that at 90,000 miles that the timing belt and water pump should be replaced. I know that Lexus is very conservative and can go for at least another 10K without doing this maintenance. I would like to know worst case scenario if I don't change the timing belt. Would the engine be harmed if the timing belt would slip? Or would this just cause it to run crummy? It is most likely best to go ahead and do the maintenance. But, could I put it off for awhile without facing damage to the engine? I don't do my own work on the engine for this type of stuff and have been quoted some heavy numbers for this maintenance. What really needs to be done for safety and long term benefit of the car? Quotes as high as $2,000.00 for this maintenance have been quoted. Is there a way to bring this down some? Or do I just get it done and be happy it is running great.... Thanks guys. Flashjet

Transmission was flushed when the transmission fluid was changed 6,000 miles ago. Try again. Did you use Toyota ATF/Manaual? It's possible the gears are griding. I'm having the same problem with my LS400. The only problem mine's getting worse. When I've taken my transmission out I'll let you know. Good luck with your I don't know what was put in for the transmission fluid. I had it done at a service station that seems to know what they are doing and would use the correct fluid. I didn't request any specific type to be used. Are you saying that if the wrong transmission fluid is used that this type of roughness when cold would be noticed? Yet smooth out when warmed up? What would you do at this point?

Transmission was flushed when the transmission fluid was changed 6,000 miles ago. Try again.

1997 SC 400 with 83,000 miles that when I first start up and go has less than smooth acceleration. It does acceleration but is a bit rough from 2 gear on. Once the car is warmed up, this goes away. Acceleration is glassy smooth through all the gears. It is getting worse, rougher when first starting up and going. Once warmed up, it runs smooth again. Is this an indication that I need to replace something or get some work done? The transmission fluid was changed 6,000 miles ago. Owners manual says to replace the timing belt at 90,000 miles, could this be something connected to needing to replace the timing belt? Can anyone fill me in on what is going on here? Everything else works like new. Thanks for your help, Flashjet

The white smoke is an indications of anti-freeze getting into the engine. Most likely you over heated the engine and cracked the head. The mechanic is correct in that engine replacement is the best solution for the problem. Just replacement of the head and you may have additional problems from over heating the engine. Replace the engine and you correct all the additional problems you most likely have from over heating the engine at a price lower than all the work to replace the head. If your temperature gauge ever goes sky high, stop the engine before it cuts off to avoid damage to the engine. At that point, replacement of the waterpump was all that was needed. Running the engine after it over heated the first time is when the head cracked. The cut off of the engine is the engine talking to you..."Help! Don't run me, I need coolant and my waterpump needs replacement!" Listen to it and you can save big bucks in repairs. Don't listen and run the hurting engine and crack the head and have big repair bills.

Tom, Thanks so much for your help. It was enough to get the job done. It was a search to find all four studs and remove the nuts, then the lens assembly didn't come off easily. But you set me on track and I was able to do the job which was the specific task at hand. Thanks again for your direction. This form is great! :D Flashjet

It is nice to have a car that lets you know when one of your backup lights are out while in the driver seat. This is a 1997 SC 400. Otherwise how would one know unless someone outside the car saw your light out and told you. But it is another thing to be so frustrated as thinking anyone with an IQ over 100 should be able to change burned out backup lights and not be able to! I pulled back the carpet like lining and the plastic cover in the trunk area. I could see a wire coupling. But no way could I figure out how to get to the bulbs. Ok, maybe I have to remove the lens from the outside...no that didn't work. A half hour later I am frustrated and feeling stupid. Throwing away any sense of pride....help! How do you get to the backup light bulbs?