pachanga

Thanks for the explanation... that is interesting how the hydraulic fluid damages the alternator.

Texas eh? (license plate) what part of Texas? We lived in Georgetown - really enjoyed living there. I remember how upon first moving there form SC - first -- we were considered intruders ..not being native Texans -- second - thankfully we were not from the north side of the Mason Dixon Line and were generally accepted as long as we knew our place.. more or less. I loved Texas ... as I told people... It IS a whole another country.

that is good... I had to smile a bit.. just the way it is with things - going to wear out or break eventually.

Anyway - same old story - power steering pump leaks - alternator is below the PS pump - I was wondering what is the time frame that once the power steering pump starts leaking is the usual or average time the alternator will fail. Also curious - how does the power steering pump fluid damage the alternator? corrosion? or? My power steering pump in my 1998 LS400 just started leaking last week. I know I need to address it ASAP - just going to be this weekend before I can.

Update... I was able to open the trunk.... I was not able to use a battery to electrically unlock it... I decided to try to open it mechanically - so I attacked the key lock in the tail light lens. I did not want to break the lens... so I started with trying (and was successful) to remove the cylinder... and after using a brass rod and a ball peen hammer I was able to get the lock cylinder itself out leaving the outer part of the lock in place where I was then able to take a flat blade screwdriver into the rest of the lock and turn it to the right which then was like using the key. Pushed down on the trunk lid and turn it to the right and the lock opened. The trunk lid was not damaged nor was the tail light lens broken. I was able to get the trunk lid, the radio antenna assembly, the spare tire, tools, etc. along with the trunk lid itself. I bought the hood, left side front fender, various trim pieces, etc. Going back next week to get the transmmission.

It is a car that is sitting in a junkyard - it was not wrecked - I do not know the history of the car - the exterior sheet metal is in excellent shape - but the interior -...everything inside is gutted and is quit a mess. The dash, steering wheel, console - ect. are gone or pretty much destroyed. And you are right - I don't have to worry about repairing the wires or harnesses. I am buying the exterior sheet metal... But I do want the trunk lid - it is locked and no key and actually the lock in the tail light lens has been tampered with - the outer or exterior of the lock is gone - so I was looking to find a way to open the truck lid without damaging it. I don't want to just take a crowbar to it. I am thinking about getting the engine (it doesn't have the fuel injection components) just to learn how to work on the engine in terms of crank, cams, pistons, etc.

I will try both methods - Thanks for the help.

I have a unique situation. I read a lot of posts about opening a LS400 trunk lid where the car is intact - that is - lost keys, broken lock, etc... However here is what I am trying to do. I have a 1994 LS400 - very nice shape - no problem with the trunk lid on this car - but I found a 1994 LS400 with excellent sheet metal in a local junkyard - but the interior is stripped and gutted. The trunk lid is shut and locked. My problem is that I want to open the trunk - and the outer part of the key lock in the brake light lens is gone. The key is not with the car- and if the remote trunk lid release on the driver's side - well all that is gone, trashed, messed up. Obviously no power to the car, etc. I looked at mine to see how the linkage from the lock is mated to the lock and the actual trunk lid lock. I can see into the remains of the lock and after checking my car - I think I may two options. One --- crowbar... but I don't want to damage the trunk lid by using that method. I don't know how much force it might take and I may leverage against the wrong part and bend the sheet metal. The other option . possibly drill the key lock out - use a drill bit to drill the lock and then hope I can get a grip on the linkage with a pair of needle nose and activate the latch that way. I hope someone has a suggestion or two or possibly another way to get it open. I am in the process of removing the other pieces of the sheet metal . fenders, hood ,etc... I like this car - I have a 1998 model also but I am thinking that if I ever were to have an accident - bend the fender or what have you - I can rebuild the car fairly inexpensively.