tradin1

So i think everything electrical is toast. I've replaced the body ecu, that fixed my wiper issue, replaced the seat ecu, that fixed my lights issue, replaced the hvac module which replaced my hvac system. I manually tested the lights on the cluster, and it seems the ones that the "gauge" fuse supplies voltage to, that circuit is fried. So i'm going to need a new cluster at minimum, and then and ECU most likely since the car doesn't start. How do i go about coding the ECU, and correcting the milage on the cluster?

Slowly coming to life because I'm isolating things and locating shorts. The seat ecu under the driver seat was causing a short. Pin b1 on the seat ecu was the issue, relaxed the ecu and now the radio, all interior lights, exterior lights, dimming, cluster headlight and high beam, hazards, and few others have come back because of that short. Now I'm going to try and isolate the wipers turning on on their own. Before the b1 short they would run at the lowest speed instantly, they have since slowed down so the current has decreased through that circuit. If I had a current flow value diagram with the car off, I could check the flow in each fuse. But that's not an option for me at this point. I'm guessing another module is bad. It was a bad MOV in the ecu seat module. Will post pics later.

Correction Radio has no music but speakers work, all the interior lights, exterior lights, light dimming, clock, hazards, rear lights, and a few other little things work. Still no Hvac so i'm going to start by isolating the Hvac module tomorrow. no cluster either but i see it slowly coming back to life.

Well all my dome lights and a few other things started working normally. But the cluster still doesnt turn on, no hvac, the lights inside don't turn on, and the car doesn't start. The cause for the dome lights and a select other things was a bad door module on the driver side. now i need to figure out wtf is wrong with the rest of the car. This is really testing my patience now. -R

So today i found an electrical schematic for the car, makes things much easier. Started from the battery, worked to the ignition switch, to the fuse box inside the car. So far all of that has continuity and checks out to be doing what it's suppose to without any shorts. now that i know what each plug does, and each wire, i can unplug one at a time systematically while checking continuity to isolate whats going on. I think i might just be able to figure this out. Thanks -R

So the fuses have somehow stopped blowing for the time being, but i still have some very weird issues. When i place the wiper fuse, the 20amp, the wipers refuse to turn off. The instrument cluster does not turn on, all i see is the P, seatbelt, and some other sign. Along with all that the dome lights do not work, and the car does not start, it does turn on though. I individually checked all the relays in the engine bay today, and they all work just fine. Any ideas guys? i'm still sort of blindly looking. The light bulb technique wont work now since nothing has a ridiculous amount of current running through it. Thanks -R

well the fuses that were blowing now seem to not blow? they all have current running through them when i plug in a DMM. Really perplexed? the instrument cluster now turns on, but does not display any of the gauges outside the parking light. The Hvac does not work still, nor does the radio system...

I was fiddling with the ECU-B fuse carrier yesterday, it had a ridiculous amount of current going through it. The wires accidentally touched, and now no life in that circuit...*BLEEP*...

I feel as if the ECU can't be the culprit because if it were the ecu, it would not have any impact on the dome light or the radio having a short as well. I think there's an issue with the harness somewhere and i need to find out where that issue is. When they jumped the car, nothing out of the ordinary was done. So no more info in that department. If the 120amp main fusible link was out, i wouldn't be blowing random fuses. Thanks -R

Ok we can rule out the animal theory, my brother in law says they were jumping the car and this fiasco happened. I've pulled the fuse box in the engine compartment, some of the relay carriers look as if they had gotten hot at one point. I was checking continuity on the ECU-B and i think it made it worse? It was have current flow before and now it seems to produce nothing. Does anyone have a wiring schematic of the setup? Thanks -R

I will try the bulb method for each of the fuses, the ECU-B fuse blows instantly so i know there is a short for sure. the car does not have to be on for it to blow. Any flow of current and that fuse blows. The car does not have aftermarket suspension of any form. Where does the wiring harness run from the ECU box? i see it goes into the wheel well area and then disappears. I'm leaning towards this, trying to find areas where an animal may have gotten near the harness. Have not seen any visual indications of a rodent though.

I recently came back from vacation, turned on the car and it refused to start. After further inspection, i realized all of these fuses blow either as i replace them, or when the ignition is turned to on. Each one depends on which way it's configured but it leads me to believe there is a common ground issue, or a short in the wiring where all of the lines merge for these fuses. I don't have a wiring diagram and need assistance with that. Or if anyone has any ideas as to what might be causing this, i would definitely appreciate any advice. The fuses that blow are inside the car and outside. The ones inside the car consist of, ignition, gauge, and wiper. The ones in the engine bay consist of, Radio NO1, ECU-B, DOME-FR, and antenna. Thanks -R