larryp

Yep you need to add PS fluid. The fluid should be up to the marks on the stick. The groaning will go away as soon as you add fluid. After you bring the level up watch for leaks under the engine bay when you park it. Might want to put a piece of cardboard under the engine bay overnight to pinpoint the location if it does leak. One other possible cause is the PS air control valve. When this goes bad PS fluid gets sucked into the intake manifold. The result is very thick (and noticeable white smoke). Do a search on the forum and you'll find lots of posts related to this topic.

If you haven't added any since you got the car 2 years ago, maybe you'll get lucky and it was just normal usage. Can't really help with your dash issues.

Have had same problem with both driver door lock and ignition switch. Took lock cylinders apart and removed a couple of the pins that were sticking. Not the greatest remedy in terms of security, but it solved the problem. Not difficult to do, just have to be real careful not to lose pins or springs when you take it apart.

Glad to help.

Have 213k on my 91 on original starter. They're usually pretty solid. I would make sure i eliminated the battery as the cause of the problem because a weak battery can exhibit the same symptons - and jumping won't help if it's the battery. Take it out and have it tested first before you go any further. Changing the starter is a big job because it's located under the intake manifold. If battery is OK, then take it to a good indie mechanic for the repair.

I have a 91 w/ 213K and it is still running strong. At that price you get to the point where some repairs can be almost as much as the cost of the car unless you do the work yourself. I would be most concerned about the engine internals. Do you know how much oil it burns? I can go the 5k between oil changes and burn maybe only 1/2 quart. To me this is the best indicator of how much life it has left. Was the timing belt and water pump changed recently (it would have been due at 180k). Unless you do it yourself, this repair job is anywhere from $1000 - $1500. Recently did mine myself for a cost of $346 including both idler pulleys. The rac he is referring to is the power steering rack. Leaks here are fairly common. Unless it is a major problem, i wouldn't worry about it since replacing the rack is expensive. Haven't had any experience with repairs here, so others may be able to answer better. Also suspension issues would be common at this age and this is an area i'm addressing now on mine. Again, not too bad if you do the work yourself.

All in all it's hard to beat a Lexus for $2600. If the engine is strong you've still got a lot of miles left. $2600 is hardly the down payment for a new car. Instead of car payments, you might have some repair expense but the good thing is most of the repairs can be done based upon your schedule instead of being due on the 15th of every month!

Good luck with your decision.

Did the key lock that controls the trunk release get pushed in? If so, unlock with your master key. Maybe you'll get lucky and find that someone pushed it in by mistake. I have replaced batteries in my key fob twice cause i thought they were dead, when all that was wrong was i had hit the remote on / off button on the dash.

When coolant level is low, no heat will come out. Reservoir may show proper level but coolant level in engine may still be low. Remove coolant fill on thermostat housing and check level there. If low, add more. May have air trapped in system. Mine exhibited the exact same symptoms when my water pump was leaking. Car never ran hot, but wouldn't blow warm air because there was not enough coolant to heat up the heater core.

Good luck. No fun without heat.

Sorry i don't remember. Replaced them 60K miles ago. I do remember they were platinum but don't remember the brand.

Not sure what they mean by seals, but you don't have 'em. Recommend buying oem wires so they will fit properly (smaller diameter than some aftermarket wires). It would get awful crowded with "standard" size wires. Just bought a set for mine from newlexusparts.com for $114.

Larry:

Don't feel bad, it really isn't clear.......

I think that all the marks (including the marks on the timing belt) will all line up at "n + 1" revolutions of the crankshaft.......where "n" = number of teeth on the timing belt.

However, I've never remotely had enough patience to attempt to prove whether or not it is true.

Maybe there's a math genius lurking around this board that can confirm this for us (?).....

:whistles: I can tell you that n is a number a lot larger than 10

Tapping has not reappeared. Now have 400 miles since TB repl and car runs great. Figure i'll replace dist cap, rotor, and plug wires in the near future just to be safe. All are probably original.

TB and water pump replacement is a major job as you know. But thanks to the instructions from Lexls and being careful and patient with the project, it's doable for a competent DIY-er. Be sure to bag all nuts and bolts and label the bag so you'll know where they go when it's time to put back together (i had no leftover bolts :D ). One thing that did stump me for a few minutes was after installing the new belt you are supposed to rotate crank shaft 2 times to make sure the marks line back up. I was thinking this referred to the marks on the timing belt itself matching with the pulley marks - but what it really means is that all the pulley marks line up with their reference marks on the engine (cost me an extra 45 minutes to figure this out since i didn't read the instructions close enough ).

Very happy to have this repair behind me! Let me know if you have any other questions. THanks.

Could be high voltage arcing which subsides when the car warms up due to expansion...I would pull that cover and inspect the plug wires...

Thanks. I'll check it out.

I had to remove mine about a 2 years ago but i can't remember the exact steps. I want to say you have to turn the key to the on position to get it where it will slide out -- but my memory of the exact steps escapes me -- sorry. Once you get it out you may be able to salvage the switch. I had the same problem (key wouldn't turn) and also had the same problem in the drivers door lock. I ended up removing a couple of the pins in the lock cylinder that were binding. That way you can keep the same key. Good luck.

Replaced timing belt, idler pulleys, and water pump this weekend. Boy what a job. When the magic moment came to start her up, i held my breath and she started just fine :D but... there was a loud tapping coming from the passenger side distributor cover. Took it for a spin of about a mile and the tapping disappeared. Running smooth as a clock. This morning when i started it up, same thing. Drove it to work and within 2-3 miles the tapping disappeared. Definately coming from the pass. side distributor area. Other than that it's very smooth and quiet. Car has 212K.

Any ideas?

There are a couple of gaskets where the fuel line connects to the injector rail. Perhaps its as simple as a failing gasket.

As far as loaner vehicles, i think that's up to the discretion of each dealer. Some only provide for warranty or CPO vehicles.

Good luck.

What a long strange trip it's been for you. Haven't been able to check in much lately but i remember when you 1st posted the thread and then reading about all the trials and tribulations you've gone through. Know you're happy to get this one behind you. And congrats for having one of the longest threads in forum history!

Please provide some feedback:

My car is currently at the Lexus dealership due to AC not cooling.... I was informed my A/c compressor is not working and the following items will need to be replaced. I was thinking I just needed to have some freon added what a surprise.

** Lexus ***

A/C compressor

Drier or dryer

Expansion Valve

and refill freon

for a grand total of $2300.00 minus $550 if the expansion valve doesn't need replacing.

***Toyota ***

same as above for $1321.23 minus $150 if the expansion valve doesn't need replacing.

Prices above includes labor as well.... I guess my question is, is this reasonable and would you recommend Toyota to do the work?

I guess I'm thinking Lexus might be pulling the wool over my eyes , because I am a female and not mechanically inclined.

Please advise asap

You didn't say what year your car was, but the expansion valve is a major PITA if it needs replacing. Any time you replace the compressor you should replace the drier. Did they tell you what the root cause of the problem is? Sounds like they are saying compressor failure. Aftermarket compressor can be purchased for ~$260 plus $25 for the drier plus labor. So i'd say you were getting taken. The Toyota pricing obviously is a lot better and i wouldn't hesitate taking it there. There may be an independant Lexus repair shop in your area. That would be my first choice.

Good luck.

Plugged it myself. Was fortunate to find something in my pile of old bolts that worked. I had tried leaving the valve on and plugging the lines but there's too much pressure. You might try a tractor dealer (John Deere, Kubota) as they often have a good selection of bolts in all sizes.

Remove the idle control valve and find a bolt with matching threads (not as easy as it sounds cause it takes a big short bolt). Plug the hole with the bolt and copper washer. Leaks are gone. Obviously doesn't solve any other issues you may have like clogged solenoid filter, but it's a cheap and effective fix for the immediate problem. The bolt will be a lot less than the $95 ICV. Performed this lobotomy on mine a couple of years ago and have had no problems.

I would assume that this message came from a testing unit at an auto parts store. They use different kinds. I would go to a different store and have it tested again.

Don't know but it would be easy to find out. Leave window down and lock car with remote. Reach in and open door (be prepared for alarm) and then try to start car.

Valve covers seem a logical choice(and relatively painless fix). I believe the valves are the highest point on the engine where you would have oil flowing. Need to pinpoint the source though. I'd do a good clean-up with degreaser around that area (as best you can) and then watch for the source. Once valve cover gaskets start leaking, no amount of tightening or re-torqueing will fix - must replace gaskets. Odd that a change to synthetic would be the root cause of the problem.

Had a fire from an oil leak in a 48 Plymouth when i was a kid. My dad crawled under the car with a blanket and put it out. Scary. :o

Plugged mine a couple of years ago cause i was too cheap to buy the new valve. Plug the two vacumn lines - one at the intake manifold and one on the throttle body. I replaced the valve with a bolt that had matching threads. If the valve is bad, the high pressure makes it almost impossible to leave the valve on and try to plug the two lines coming out.

Haven't really noticed any difference in idle. The valve is designed to increase idle at low speed when the steering wheel is turned to prevent the RPM from dropping too low (or stalling out) because of the additional load on the engine. As i said, i haven't had that problem or really seen any difference. :)

14mm nuts are 59 ft lbs

24mm nut is 87 ft lbs

Just in case you want to crawl under there and snug them up!

These are for 91 LS but i'm sure they're the same.

"putt putt putt" sound makes me think one or more of the cylinders are not firing properly so timing check as previously suggested would be a good thing to do. Also, have you rechecked plugs since all these parts were installed to see if they are still fouling? If all are, then i would think definitely timing related. If only one or two are fouled, could be a stuck injector (or valve problem).

Was the glowing cats and lack of power the initial problem that prompted all these parts being replaced, or was there another issue that started this journey? Just curious, there may be some relationship.