cmmetcalf

2004 LS430 Brakes

I replaced my brake pads several months back with some after market semi metallic bands (Bendix brand). I didn't replace and I didn't resurface the rotors at the time.

Just recently I noticed a slight grabbing of the brakes at very slow speeds (just before stopping). I don't think its warped rotors because I don't feel any shimmy in the steering wheel (at any speed) which is more typical for warped rotors. A few questions for some of the experts out there:

1) What does Lexus use for the OEM pads? ceramic, friction, or semi metallic pads?

2) Does this grabbing symptom sound familiar to anyone? I am wondering is the metal in my replacement pads has somehow contaminated the rotors?

3) Are these cars know for easily warping rotors? I had a Volvo many years back that was notorious for warped rotors.

4) Anyone got any good suggestions for replacement pad brand (I guess I could get Lexus OEM pads but probably 2-3X the price).

Any help appreciated.

I use AKiBONo Pro Ceramics on all of my Lexuses. They come with shims. Turn the rotors (havwe them watch servicelimits on rotor width) and watch break-in procedures. I've used them on three LS400 and 1 LS430 with no problems. Tirerack has them... Good luck. Also warped rotors typically will be felt through the brake pedal as a sort of pulsing up and down under light brake pedal pressure. You can check run-out pretty easily. Watch torque values on wheel lugs and make sure you tighten in a star pattern on the lugs (I use 75 ft/lb on the torque value).

2004 LS430 Brakes

I replaced my brake pads several months back with some after market semi metallic bands (Bendix brand). I didn't replace and I didn't resurface the rotors at the time.

Just recently I noticed a slight grabbing of the brakes at very slow speeds (just before stopping). I don't think its warped rotors because I don't feel any shimmy in the steering wheel (at any speed) which is more typical for warped rotors. A few questions for some of the experts out there:

1) What does Lexus use for the OEM pads? ceramic, friction, or semi metallic pads?

2) Does this grabbing symptom sound familiar to anyone? I am wondering is the metal in my replacement pads has somehow contaminated the rotors?

3) Are these cars know for easily warping rotors? I had a Volvo many years back that was notorious for warped rotors.

4) Anyone got any good suggestions for replacement pad brand (I guess I could get Lexus OEM pads but probably 2-3X the price).

Any help appreciated.

My RX is the same Blue on the rear and open on the front. I think the open front badge indicates the vechile has the tow package (Better air flow)

Ditto. My '08 has Blue Badge in rear. Open in front as it has the trailer towing package.

This is a belated post, since I did this about 6 weeks ago. Just wanted to wait and see if it fixed things. It did.

Got code 25 one day and everything ran like it usually does. Just fine. Most likely oxygen sensors.

www.lexls.com has a super article on how to change primary and seconday o2 sensors.

I took all 4 out, and replaced them with the Walker ones without plugs from www.oxygensensors.com. Again, see www.lexls.com. One of my primary sensors was shot. The other was close. The secondaries were probably fine, but they are cheap.

A few notes on the process:

Mine appeared to be original. At 198K, that's incredible.

They are not hard to get out, but the o2 socket sold at oxygensensors.com (part 25001) will not fit the OEM primaries. It is not deep enough...the OEM ones are huge. However, it is very handy for getting the Walker primaries (particularly the one behind the sterring rack) tightened back in. It fits the Walker sensors nicely.

You'll need a 7/8"or 22mm combo wrench with a nice long shank....longer is better.

Its not a hard process, but it takes a while since you don't have a lot of room to work.

Splicing the wires on the Walker ones without plugs is not big deal, adds maybe an hour to the process. Basic soldering skills really.

Hope that helps.

DanW,

Thank you for the notes. Have you noticed any change in performance, i.e. fuel economy?

Thanks,

glenmore

1990 LS400

1991 300CE

2000 C280

Performance, no. Fuel Economy, about 1 mpg overall. Seems like mileage is less sensitive to cold weather that it was last year. Best part, that pesky CEL doesn't come on!

Got a question. Are all the sensors the same? Or are the upstream ones different from the downstream? I have a 1997 LS 400 and I need to change all of them.

Thanks

They are different. Go to www.oxygensensors.com . I've used them several times and find them good to work with with good prices and free shipping.

A few questons. When you flushed the system, was the fluid running clean when you stopped and were you sure to avoid the reservoir going dry? Because that would create an air pocket that could be difficult to get rid of. You mention cranking the wheel for about 50 times, that may not be enough. Try cranking for about 15 minutes. It should get lighter. Did you clean the mesh screen in the reservoir? Check your pump to make sure it's working. It should be putting out around 300 psi. Check your rack for any leaks, especially at the end dust caps. There's a solenoid on the rack that should be also cleaned to prevent overly high pressure buildup. What is your level? If you have overfilled, you may have blown a seal. Check that all your connections are correct and tight. Finally, as difficult as it may be, try driving the car for about a week making a lot of turns every time. Notice if the steering effort gets lighter. If it does then it's a good sign that with enough driving it should get back to somewhere near normal.

If the rack solenoid is bad or clogged it may prevent most of the steering assist. Advice above is very sound. Also be careful of old hoses. Many of the older hoses when taken off to replace PS pump crack inside and that trash can come down into the solenoid. The solenoid can be removed while rack is in car and it has a built in screen that can get plugged. Goggle rebuilt racks and you'll find several firms that sell cheaper replacement hoses that Lexus OEM.

I have a couple of maintenance questions about my 97 LS. First off I bought it last year from my parents and it now has about 122k miles on it. Beautiful car that is truly impressive.

1. Are Lexus fluids (ATM, brake, coolant) typically dark in color or should they be light? The reason that I'm asking is that I know the maintenance schedule has been followed and I took the car to the Toyota dealer for an oil change and they suggested the previous fluid changes. I don't mind doing the changes but don't want to get ripped off.

2. Is there any good product out there that will remove brake dust from the inner corners of the 10 spoke wheels? I have tried a toothbrush and simple green with minimal results.

3. What is a good polish for removing minor scratches/transfer?

4. I am also looking for a good after market air filter.

Thanks for any help that you can provide.

Toyota ATF is fairly dark red and if I remember right, there is no specific change interval unless you are following the severe duty schedule. By pulling the drain plug on the AT, you will lose approximately 2 qts of fluid. New gasket and fill 2 qts through dip stick (check level). Brake fluid is golden (I change every two years for me that is best but for sure 60K service). When brake fluid starts looking dark it is picking up water vapor and probably time to change as that isn't good for master cylinder or wheel cylinders. Toyota AF is red and cut 50/50 with water is fairly light red. Change at 60K intervals. When I buy a car I replace the rear end dope with Mobil1 or Red-Line synthetic 75W-90 and change every 60K thereafter.

Can't answer 2. I use a light scratch remover by Meguairs (sp?) ScratchX

I run K&N air filters in everything I own.

Hey guys,

I was wondering how long of an extension am I going to need to reach the spark plugs using my socket wrench?

Varies. I use a wobbly head 3/8" drive with 6" extension with a 5/8" Plug socket (has rubber plug holder in it---not a standard one) or you can't get the plug out after it is loose. On some models I also use a 3/8" universal joint on the plug socket end in order to get the whole assembly in. I usually use anti-seize on the plug threads (do not get it on the electrode). I mount the 3/8" universal joint on the plug socket add the extension and screw the plug in until hand tight. Then I stick the rachet on and finish it up. Don't overtighten.

I was going to change the air filter on my 2005 LS430 but I cannot figure out where it is. Went to the local library but the Chilton manual didn't even show it. Help would be appreciated.

Is it in the same general area on a 2001 LS 430? Do I need to go with a K&N replacement or can I go with a OEM like from lexus-parts.com out of Sewell Texas

Remove air filter lead in that runs along the top of the radiator. There will be two plastic fasterners one on each end. This will expose the round air filter can on your left right behind the bulkhead as you face the windshield. There will be a circular clamp to release on that filter box to split it. Be sure and line the two halves up correctly (there is a little peg that fits in a slot on the other half. Many times some ham handed idjit has broken it off so you just have to index the two halves yourslef. If you don't get it right the entranceway into the air filter can won't line up coreectly with the induction lead in. You will also have to for ease of change unplug the Mass Air Flow sensor plug and since I'm doing this from memory there may be another hose with the assembly. Loosen the two clamps that secure the ends of the plastic flex pipe that runs between the intake plenum and the air filter box, compress it and get it out of the way. There may be a 10mm bolt securing things end there. Wiggle the air filetr box out, split it in two. I spray it with Engine Gunk to clean it out inside, wash it out thoroughly and air dry with compressor air. The K&N slips right in--- be sure and put the pointy end towards you. Reassemble in reverse and go rumble. While you have the connector off you might want to take some carb cleaner and thoroughly spray out the area around and within the brass butterfly air valve. You'll see it in the front of the intake.

PS I run the K+N in everything I own and have had good results with them....

I just did the oil in my 7 and went 5W-30. Will that suit for the Lex as well?

TIA,

Mobil 1 Synthetic 5W-30 winter and 10W-30 summer as long as engine isn't burning any oil. I have always added a pint of Marvel Mystery Oil at each oil change to try to keep head deposits down. 6-7.5K change intervals always with new Oil Filter (Factory) depending on how milage was accumulated during the period and the season.

Double check the owners manual.....you might have iridium plugs in there.....not platinum's. ;)

I will be changing mine (iridium) at the 60k mile mark personally.

I noticed a sticker underhood on my '99 saying to use iridium plugs. Is that good, or bad? Or, in other words, not as long-lasting as the platinums? This is the first I've heard of iridium plugs.

Gene

Yes Iridiums are longer lasting in general than platinum. They can go 90K but in service in 4 LSs 400/430s I have found that a 50-60K change interval works best for me. I run 89 R+M gasoline in NC with a lot of highway milage (K+N air filter) and they make good milage and good power. After change out the cars don't stay on the starter quite as long and usually pick up a mile or so per gallon. The V8 are really smooth idlers so worn plugs just aren't noticable often.

All of the plugs I have pulled have had good color to them and fairly wide gaps with noticable electrode tip wear at 50-60K. I use NGK Iridium Laser IX plugs and install with copper based thread anti-seize so they will be easier to get out the next time. Also if you DIY be sure and don't overtighten them. Follow the instructions carefully as they come prepackaged with plug gaskets that seal the plug and cylinder head nicely against leaks. You may also want to use WD40 or some other cleaner that is safe to use of rubber to clean the plug wire end with built in transformer (later motors without two distributors '95 up I think) that goes into the spark plug well in the head---as they can build up a fair amount of deposits from the operating environment over time. I like to put them back in clean.

I noticed that when looking for me wife's '08 RX400h. The dealer had both '07 and '08 on the floor. The sales person did not know about the change (heck, he didn't even know how to read VIN on dashboard! Naturally, I didn't make the purchase there, but that's another story).

As for the blue enblem in the front, it's the same one in the rear if it's FWD; on AWD model, it's a hollow "L" like before.

This is a great board, by the way.

Actually I think it goes like this: Blue emblem on the front FWD or AWD without trailer towing package. Standard open L with trailer towing package to increase cooling flow. Brand new 2008 AWD RX400h traded my '06 for it. Love them both...

Hi

I have a 2003 LS 430 with Nav. I have yet to update the navigation DVD and was thinking of doing so. If I were to update the DVD what new features would I get? Is it just more POIs and roads or is there other things also?

Furthermore I talked to a friend who was also thinking of updating and went to the local Lexus dealership to inquire about obtaining the new DVD. The mechanic told him that he should wait for the next version to come out because it would contain so much more. Is this true and if so when is the expected release date for the new DVD?

Thanks in Advance

Yours is a Gen23 Disk. Version 7.1 is now released for that model (November 2007).

Hi

I have a 2003 LS 430 with Nav. I have yet to update the navigation DVD and was thinking of doing so. If I were to update the DVD what new features would I get? Is it just more POIs and roads or is there other things also?

Furthermore I talked to a friend who was also thinking of updating and went to the local Lexus dealership to inquire about obtaining the new DVD. The mechanic told him that he should wait for the next version to come out because it would contain so much more. Is this true and if so when is the expected release date for the new DVD?

Thanks in Advance

Yours is a Gen23 Disk. Version 7.1 is now released for that model (November 2007).

I own a '06 RX400h FWD that replaced an '04 RX330 FWD. The 330 averaged 19 with my wife driving it most of the time in a 22 mile commute that is about 50% town and 50% highway driving. The RX400h is pulling 29-30 on the exact same trip burning 89RON (mid grade in NC). Anyway we cut it that about a 50% increase in milage---2 weeks on a tank if we wish instead of 1 a week. I change engine air filters at 10K increments, run the Michelins at 33F/31R on the 18" wheels and use Mobil1 5W-30 on 5K change cycles. You have to drive the 400h much differently than the standard 330/350. No engine breaking to speak of so go easy of braking, coast a lot, stay out of the loud pedal until you really need it, plan your driving patterns ahead as far as you can...

In my experience you'll see a 1.5-2.0 mpg improvement with the 89 over the 87. Also we just passed 22K on the RX400h and I believe that the motor is just getting broken in well (it just runs better in the last 6 months or so). I was fortunate enough to jump on the 400h the first quarter of '06 so I got the $2,200 federal tax credit and that helped a bunch as well.

Just to share this with the group.

1994 LS400 224,481

The some lights on my dash do not come in cold weather. The light for headlight, and Reverse comes on but all

others remain off until the car has warmed up, usually after 10 - 15 mins of driving. They start out by flickering for 5 sec or so then stay on. If I start up the car again within 8 hrs or less, the lights come on as normal.

Any thoughts??

Indeeed it is the neon backlights failing to start. They usually will fire up at around 42-44 degrees OAT. There are several companys that do the repair for around $190. All advice I've heard is to make sure it it packed very carefully (much bigger box and lots of bubble wrap and send insured. It will be expensive to replace it if damaged or lost in shipment. My 1994 LS has the same problem 219K and when I finish with the paint work (doing a little appearance stuff) I'll send the dash for a fix. You can Google Ls400 dash lights for several sites...

The some lights on my dash do not come in cold weather. The light for headlight, and Reverse comes on but all

others remain off until the car has warmed up, usually after 10 - 15 mins of driving. They start out by flickering for 5 sec or so then stay on. If I start up the car again within 8 hrs or less, the lights come on as normal.

Any thoughts??

I looked online and the arnott struts are for the LS 90-92? Did lexus stop putting air suspension on the models after 1992?

I looked online and the arnott struts are for the LS 90-92? Did lexus stop putting air suspension on the models after 1992?

I have a 1994 LS400 with the option...

I have '99 LS400 with 67000 miles on it. Had klunk from steering on sharp compression such as driving over slightly raised man hole cover or over rr tracks. Dealer traced it to a bad lower steering shaft. Both bearings bad. Replaced it NC. No noise finally.

I have a 99 LS400 that also has a knock in the steering column. It is worse when I hit a sharp edge raised object such as a man hole cover extending above the road surface or when going up my driveway where the lead in transitions from almost horizontal to a fairly sharp upslope in the concrete.

Same story from dealer (normal, can't hear it, etc.) This is the third LS (91, 97,99) that I've owned and I've never had this one.

Please keep up the thred with results if you guys don't mind.

Thanks

If they truly are plastic, you can water sand them with 1000 grit and 2000 grit wet sandpaper. The higher the number the less material is removed when sanding. Make sure the sandpaper is thoroughly pre-soaked (soaked in clean water for at least 20 minutes before use) and that the water bowl water is changed frequently and the sandpaper cleaned in the water bowl to remove debris. If you notice a build up of material on the sandpaper get it off or change to another piece.

I would suggest starting with the 2000 grit paper at first to see how much it helps. If you need to remove more pitting and deeper scratching go to the 1000 grit but always finish with the 2000. Use plenty of clean water. After finish sanding with the 2000, use a good plastic polish such as Meguiar's Plastic Polish #17 with clean soft cotton polishing rags.

I always finshed off with a good hard wax to blend out the scratches after final polishing (it also helps to remove bug splatter and the such-like easier.

This was leaned through years of airplane ownership with Lexan windshields and windows. Also several past articles including the June 2005 Roundel also feature this work.

Hope it helps

BobbyLexus:

How do you get the update?

The 1993 up stock 16" fit the earlier 90-92 cars. Good ride improvement. I've done it on two of them 90 and 1991 with no problem...

Check PIAA Extreme White replacement bulbs. They make LO, HI and Fogs for every Lexus LS model. I have run them in two LSs and my RX and they really do make a difference. You don't have to convert to the HID lights to really increase your night time viz and good appearance as well...

You can a Google search for PIAA there are several sites that sell that at good prices...

Hello

As i was driving home before i saw a BMW with those really bright white bulbs. I want them on my 1990 LS400! So i wanted to know what specs or what i need to know to get the front bulbs replaced (the low high beam and those annoying yellow fog lights). Like what would i say to the guy at the shop? I am looking for ............ for my LS400?

Anyone got manual or instructions on how to replace the bulbs also?

Thanks in advance

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