lambition

Any battery can be damaged by those high current fast chargers. High current charging is bad for battery and no battery manufacturer would recommand using one. Also, when lead acid battery is charged at high current, it can overheat and also can produce hydrogen gas. That is what can cause explosion.

If you need such a charger on car that is driven often, something is really wrong with your car's electrical system. Alternator not being able to produce enough current or devices on your car using too much. Battery on my car is original and may need to be replaced in couple of years, but I would use it until I need a jump.

It is not lowered. It is in original setting. Does it also happen with stock setting?

Well. Costco Kirkland Battery is also prorated. 3 year free replacement, 100 month prorated. As far as I know they are made by Johnson Controls and they are the same company that makes Intersate. I do not think any battery would like 100 month. I believe they are doing this so that customer buy battery from Costco again with a little discount. Only down side I found was you must be Costco member to get warranty replacement. So, if you cancel Costco membership, warranty is gone with it. I was told battery is low, but not sure what they meant by low. Probably voltage was little lower than full charge. Since it is original battery on 2008 model, it probably is about time to change it. For alignment, even service rep from dealer said it is normal for IS. But mechanic did not know if I did alighment on it and he recommanded it because they recommand alignment to be done every 10,000 miles. (Which I don't see point if tires are going to go bad anyway) I'm not complaining about technician's recommandations. Just repair prices at dealer.

Water pump on my 08 IS250 failed, making a lot of noise. Water pump is being replaced under powertrain warranty. Mechanic is recommanding me to do 4 wheel alignment and he also says battery is low and recommands new battery. I already have done 4 wheel alignment at local shop instead of dealer, but did not fix problem with inside of tire wearing out baddly. I was told this was normal for IS, but if dealer price was ok I was willing to do it. Price they qouted me was $170. Much higher than local shops I have been to. ($70 - 80) Also price to replace battery was $185. I could get battery from costco for $60 - $70 and replace it myself in minutes, and local shop will probably charge little over $100. Are these prices really normal for lexus dealers? or are they just tring to rip me off ?

Being within spec with only one side of tire wearing? That does not sound right.. Are you making lots of left turns? That is only thing I can think of if it really is within spec.

That is the part puzzles me. If not everyone is having problem, what is the cause? It seems everyone with this problem is refering to factory alignment problem. But if that is true, everyone should have problem. I wish I had a shop I can trust, but I don't. Reason why I do most repairs/maintanance my self.

Everyone have this problem? Reading your link, it does not appear everyone has problem. It seems like factory setup of IS has significant negative camber and therefore, tires do not last long? Will there be any problem if camber is adjusted to be more straight (which probably will be out of spec) on everyday driving?

Does anyone have uneven wear problem in front tires. Inner tread of both front tires are wearing much faster than rest of tire. It happened to original tire car came with. It was so bad, it was showing threads inside tire, while outside still had good amount of tread. Attached picture shows how old tire was like. Tought something was wrong with allignment and changed tires and did wheel alignment. I was told it was not off by much. It has been about 10000 miles now, and I began to see inner side of both front tires are wearing faster again. Is this common problem with IS250? Is something broken? The shop I did alignment didn't do it right? (They did not give me alignment print out saying their printer is broken. )

I already have replaced both rotors and pads over weekend. I had caliper, but not micrometer. So, I used 2 nuts as spacer to measure. Only had 25.6mm left. Original rotor said "MIN TH 25MM LEXUS 26MM OTHERS" inside vents. My highlander still has original rotor with 165,000 miles on it. Never had such a deep lip. It was warped a little, so will be replacing on next break job. Lip was on both outside and inside of rotor, so I don't think it was installed incorrectly. Edge of pads where rounded, which probably means when pads were replaced last time, rotor was not turned. I was looking for not cheapest, but good enough quality ones. Most did not have any rust protective coating. Ended up getting Napa Ultra Premium, which I believe actually is Raybestos Advanced Technology. Only first digit is different on part number.

5W20 is thiner than 5W30. Higher the number, higher viscosity is. Also, putting thicker oil will reduce fuel economy.

That would be 62137 miles. So, I guess it is normal for IS250 rotors to wear so much. My Highlander has 163,000 miles (262,323 km) and still has original rotor. I was surprised to see IS250 rotor to wear out so fast. Must be semi-metalic pads causing it. Now i have ceramic pads on it, it will probably last longer. Won't break as good as semi-metalic, but don't need to be for daily driving.

Ok. I just did break job. Used Napa Ultra Premium Rotors (880494) and Akebono Pro-Act Ceramic Pads (ACT1178). Napa rotor had rust preventative paint on it, but missed few spots at outer rim edges. Paint is some sort of polimer based, so it does not come off with break cleaner. Which is good thing. Inside vent was pretty rough compared to stock rotor, but since it is forged, understandable. Hope it is well balanced. I have no tool to measure runout, but did not have any vibration during break in. Original rotor was rusted and fused to hub. It took me a while to get them off. Tried hammer, but did not work. Put some WD-40 and tried again, still did not work. Went through my left over bolts bin and luckly, I found 1 bolt that will fit on rotor. It was left over from office chair :D. I measured thickness of rotor with vernier caliper by placing 2 small nuts as spacer. Original rotor only had 25.6mm left. Rotor did not have any minimum thickness stamped on it, but from what I have fround on google search its minium is 25mm. So, it was right thing to change rotor. Original thickness of the rotor was 28mm. (Lip was measured 28mm). New Napa rotor had minimum thicnkess of 26mm stamped on it. I could not measure thickness of new rotor because I could not find my vernier caliper at the time. (It was hidden inside one of my drawers. :( )

Has anyone tried Napa Ultra Premium Rotors? I'm considering just replacing rotor with new one. I was going to work on breaks this Saturday. Dealer parts are too expensive. I see some good rotors like Centric and Raybestos, but have to order on-line and will take about a week to get it. Napa is only local place I can find rotor with some sort of rust protection. It says "Onyx Guard Protectant Prevents Rust & Corrosion On The Rotor's Hat & Vanes" Don't know if that is just simple paint, or something equivalant to dealer part. Any ideas?

Thanks for replies. Breaking is smooth and stopping very well. I believe factory pads are semi-metalic considering amount of dusts it creats. Right? I will be replacing with Akebono Ceramic pads. Hope it is as good as semi-metalic pads on breaking power.