BangEmBoy

Took the advice, same results with New Battery . Any other suggestions ?

Hey Guys & Gals, been awhile since I've been on here, but I HAD TO get the Right Information 👊💯💯 . Here goes, I got a 2007 is250 that was driving fine . I changed the battery and now I've got Check Engine, VCS, ABS & No Throttle Response 😱🤯 . Have changed Throttle Body, checked and changed the ETCS fuse, but it's still the same 🤯 . I ran codes and have come up with the following ones ; P0102, P0113, P2118, C0200, C0205 and C1201 . NONE of those codes were present BEFORE changing the battery . I'm just about ready to ditch the car and go back to my SC400 💪💯👊👍, but I like this car and it is fun to drive . Please help . Thx in advance 👊💯👍 .

Gary, I'm back in the Bay Area (Tampa) . PM me with your number .

GREAT post Landar ! I just had to do the exact same thing tonight because the water pump outlet pipe that goes to the heater core came out . The resulting water completely submerged the starter, and it smoked more than the steam from the pipe lol . Only took me about five(5)hrs. though, as I've done the Intake thing atleast six(6) times on my various Lexus's . Love your thoroughness my friend, and I'm Definitely getting me one of those tools from Harbor Freight .

I had a similar problem with one of my LS's, and this is what I did to resolve it; this may or may not help . ... After trying the same things that you did, I took my EGR valves off and cleaned out the passage way's, next I cleaned my throttle body intake, lastly; I cleaned my intake and valves with a bottle of Sea Foam . (Here's how you do that) : look at your intake, in the front you will see two hose's, one big and one small; the big one feed's vacum to your power steering pump . Disconnect that line and get you another piece of hose about two(2) foot long that fits that vacum port . Next start the car and let it idle, then insert the hose that you connected to the vacum port on the intake into the can of Sea Foam . The vacum of the idling engine will suck the Sea Foam out of the can and into the engine . If the engine tries to stall, give it some gas . Let the engine suck about half of the can of Sea Foam, and then let car idle around 1500 rpm's until all the white and or black smoke stop's coming out of the exhaust . The process that I just described, cleans the intake and valves of deposits that build up over the years . I use this process on the vehicles that I service when there is a lope or misfire that isn't attributed to a vacum leak or tune up . I have had to do the procedure twice on vehicles that had alot of build up . I hope that this helps you .

Seems like you and I are in the same boat .. Just for the record, your two(2) code's (25 & 31) means that you have a lean condition (25), and 31 is the MAF sensor . Seeing that you have already changed the MAF sensor and are still getting the code, I would check and see if you have the proper signal from the ECU . If you check out my post, my mentor/friend SRK gives some excellent feedback on my issue's which have the same code's as yours . Our problem has been experienced by other's, and I am combing the post to find a solution . I will keep you posted on anything that I find .

Thank you very much for your feedback and assistance SRK . I will definitely look into your suggestion .... I did putter around with it today, just got in as a matter of fact; I had been advised that the MAF, the TPS and the fuel filter could be the cause of my problems, so I switched the MAF, and the TPS from my running LS . Needless to say; they didn't cure my problem, as a matter of fact, I now got a new code # 31 after the switch lol . I will be switching the parts back, and starting over with your advice on the morrow . Once again, thanks for your advice and help .

Here I go with another good one lol ..... I recently puchased another Lex, this time a 1994 SC400 . When I first got the car, it drove fine . Then about a month ago, the check engine light came on . The DTC's # 25 & #28 indicated that it was running lean and that I have an 02 sensor problem ....Fast forward two(2) weeks, car is running fine, I go to the station and fill it up with gas; when I try to start it, it just turns over . I check everything and find out that I am not getting any spark . I pull the connection plug off of the right side coil to check for current . I had power, I check the other coil and had power there as well . So plugged the coils back in and the car started . It idled for about 2 mins and died . I had the car towed home, the next morning the car cranked up and ran just fine; for about 2 day's, and then did the same thing . I tried to retrieved some DTC's to help me fix the problem, but the check engine light wouldn't blink; and that's when I was given a clue . Whenever I tried to crank the the car, if the light would come on with the key, the car would run; but if it didn't come on, it wouldn't crank . I also noticed that when the light did come on, it would be weak, sorta flashing like it wasn't getting enough power ....That led me to checking my fuses and connection's . When I got to the underhood fuse box, I noticed that the fuel pump relay was warm, so I checked the circuit and found out the turn on wire was only getting about 4 volts . I ran a wire (ignition switched controlled) to supply 12 volts to the relay when the key was on . The car ran fine for two days, then did the no check engine light thing and wouldn't start .....Thinking that it was the ECM (since I couldn't go into diagnostic mode), I had the ECM rebuilt . When I got it back, the car craked up and ran just fine, but it idled erratcally . The RPM's would go up and down, from 1500 to 1000 . Other than that it drove fine with plenty of power . Then I noticed that sometime my RPM gauge and my MPH gauge wouldn't be working, then all of a sudden they would start to working again . I figured that the ECM must not have been built right, so I got another one, and I still have the same problem's; and now on top of that, my transmission isn't locking up . No let me rephase that, it is locking up, and then unlocking when driving . When driving at a steady rate of speed, you can feel it going in and out of lock up .... So far I have put in a new ECM, and a new fuel pump . I would really appreciate any help, feedback and guidance concerning this . I want to thank everyone in advance for your suggestions .

Before I get started on my progress, I just want to thank each and everyone of the memebers of this forum that have provided help, advice and feedback ....... Other responsibilities have kept me away for awhile, that and the purchase of a 1994 SC400 . I've had so much fun (and problems lol) driving the d#m trhing that I kinda put the old LS on the back burner . I have the new heads, but have decided to pull the engine and do a total rebuild, and have puchased a used engine to put in the LS until I get the other engine done . I will be posting some pics soon . I am about to start a new topic (D#m SC !) about my recently puchased SC400 that I am having problems with, and I would appreciate any and all feedback concerning the issue's/problems that I am having with it .

You are 100% right Landar, I was wrong to reply in kind and I apologise to SRK and anyone else that I may have offended . I just have this peeve about people with condescending attitudes ....If I can't help you, I won't mislead you or look down on you, because none of us are perfect or know it all... I want to thank Landar, Curious B and 1992Lexus personally for all the advice, support and help that you gave . You all helped me to see it as a problem, and not just a Lexus problem . If I would have just used my mechanical common sense, this problem would have been diagnosed and fixed a long time ago; so in that aspect, SRK was right . I trully hope that my experience will help the other member's on this site ....... I found some Lexus only quirk's when I was disassembling the engine to take the head's off . Where can I post these, so that other member's can be aware of them if they ever have to take thier head's off ? Also where can I post pic's of the disassembly/reassembly ? Once thank's everyone for all your help, advice and support .

If you would quit being an a-hole and read the entire post, you would know that the leak-down and compression test's failed . The water pump couldn't fix what was already broken . Go find you a Barbie doll to play with and leave me alone !

Instead of replying to the negativity of the recent posts to my issue, I'm gonna be the mature one about this and just say that after tearing down my engine today, I had a blown head gasket between the no. 6 & no. 8 cylinders .... Anyone with any kind of mechanical apptitude knows that (1) if you have a stuck valve, when the engine come's up on the compression stroke on that cylinder it's gonna blow the compression out of the cylinder because the valve is stuck open; (2) if your cats are stopped up, everytime the intake valves open up, compression is gonna leak back into those cylinders, because it has nowhere else to go (3) if you have ran a car hot enough to the point that the ring's collapse, you are gonna get crankcase back-pressure that's gonna come back out of that cylinder as soon as that valve opens up, and (4) if you have a blown head gasket between two cylinders, the pressure from the compression stroke is gonna leak to the ajoining cylinder and out the valve's as soon as they open . I learned a long time ago that if I don't know something, I ask; I don't jump to conclussions or tell someone else that they are wrong, just because I don't have or know the answer . I get me a book , or lean upon the knowledge and experience of someone that's more knowledgeable than me . And just for the record, I am an ASE Certified Master Mechanic with shop's (Supreme Clientel) in two (2) loacation's (Alabama & Florida), and have been in this field for over 30 years, but that doesn't make me the smartest or the best mechanic in the world, nor does it give me the big head to think that I'm too good to ask for clarification of an issue that I'm not familiar with . Before I go, I just want to let everyone here know that, It's best to fix a problem than try to put it off, or patch it; because it will come back to bite you . Some people say that I took a shot-gun approach to my problem, if thats your opinion, then that's on you . I know my skills, abilities and bank account lol . When I bought the car, It had sat up for 3-4 years . I didn't know it's history, and I wasn't gonna take the chance of just patching a problem that could possibly lead to another problem . That's why I fixed everything, I would rather be safe than sorry; my wife and daughter will be driving this car . I care more about them than somebody's opinion . (Remember the old saying about opinions lol) . My new heads (shot-gun ? lol) will arrive at my shop in Alabama Saturday morning, by Saturday evening I will have the car back together and driving it to my daughter in Florida . I'll keep you all posted . I want to once again thank the people that offered me advice and feedback concerning the issue that I presented in this forum . I learned alot from you guy's/gal's . Special thanks goes out to Mark, thanks man for everything today .

I want to thank each and everyone personally or thier feedback to my post . It is rare that I get stumped on a vehicle . I have been in the automotive field for many years, and if I would have used my mechanical common sense, this problem would have been licked some time ago; but by me not being Lexus familiar, I chose this forum for help . Now that i've had the time to analyze thing's to the fullest, I believe that I have a stuck valve, collasped rings, or a blown head gasket . My reasoning ? I have way too much back pressure on the engine, and also when I did my leak down test, # 8 was leaking substantially . Eventhough there is no water mixing with the oil, I'm leaning heavily on the head gasket therory because I noticed today when I had the car idling that steam was coming back out of my intake opening when I took off the MAF tube, and the fact that I have to take a spark plug out to get it to run . I could be wrong, so therefore I am asking the community to give me thier feedback once again .

First off I want to thank everyone for thier input and advice on my post . I have found out what my problem is, but not what's causing it . I have so much back-pressure that it blows off my vacum lines ! I have a cap on my intake that blocks off one of the ports, and at every turn of the engine, that cap blows off . All of the thing's that I have done to the LS needed to be done, so I aint mad, I just want it running again . Do you think that when the p/s pump valve went bad and was sucking the fluid back into the intake that it burned a valve, or stopped up my exhaust system ? Looking for help and advice on this . Thanks

I definitely have a back-pressure problem thats stopping the car from cranking . Is there anyone out there that has experienced this problem ? If so, what steps did you do to fix it ?

Brand new battery and terminals, thanks for the feedback though ........ I worked on the Demon Spawn yesterday, what a d#m day ! Started out by taking the intake back off to mack sure that there was no broken wire's or improper grounds . Upon installing the intake, stud after stud broke ! Got new ones today, and will get back to work on it tomorrow . i also bought another Idle Air Control Valve and fuel regulator, even picked up some injectors for a good price . When I get done tomorrow, everything on the top of the engine will be new . Hopefully with everything that I have done, this will cure my problems . Once again, thanks to everyone for your feedback and help .

Thankx for your feedback, am going out now to work on the Demon Spawn lol . I will definitely pay close attention to that . Actually, I'm gonna switch the intire Upper Intake from the 92 to the 90 and see how that works .

Thankx for that bit of advice, I will pull the wiring out again and do another check for broken wire's ...... Once again I would like to thank everyone for thier advice and help with my problem . We haven't gotten it figured out yet, but with my skills and your input, we will get right ,or it's going to the junkyard lol . Here is an update on what I did today on the Demon Spawn...... I had gotten feedback telling me to check out the IAC valve, so I took it off today and ohmed it; the readings that I got say's that it's bad . I had a spare, ohmed that one out, and it's bad too; but before I spend the money for a new one (have you seen the pricse for those things !), I'm gonna take the one off of the 90LS and see if it works first . I also disassembled the upper intake so that I could properly clean the throttle-body, because I had gotten feedback on that being a problem area as well . I'll put everything back together tomorrow and post my findings here ...... One other note, I have gotten alot of feedback about the possibility of the ECU being bad, well we can rule out that therory . When I puchased the car, it didn't have an ECU, so I bought one for it; and I also bought a just in case spare . But you and I both know tha they can go bad at the drop of a hat, so to rule them out as being the problem, I took both ECU's and installed them one at a time into the 90LS and it ran like a champ . I then installed the 90LS's ECU into the 92LS and it still ran the same as before . So as you can see, I take everyone's suggestions very seriously, so keep em coming and help me to lick this problem . Thanks again everybody . (Note : To all that's reading this post, keep in mind that if I give the car any gas It stalls out, and the only way that I can restart it, is I have to remove a spark plug and let it run with it out before I can relace it and get the car to idle again)

Ok I'm back from working on the Demon Spawn lol, what a day ... I started by swicthing the igniters, the TPS, and the whole MAF assembly . Car still runs the same . Kicked the computer into diagnostic mode, no codes now . Took the parts from off the 92 and put them on the 90, the 90 still runs great, so I guess that I can rule out those parts as bad . I did find a broken wire (white/black) in the trunk wiring harness, soldered in back together, but it didnt make a difference to my problem. My mind is telling me that I have a blockage in my exhaust system somewhere, but since I'm no Lexus expert I will await some feedback on that thought . If anyone out there has any suggestions, advice or help; please feel free to post it . All post will be taken very seriously . Once again, thanks to everyone for your help concering this matter .

Thank you all very much for your input and help . Here is an update on my Demon Spawn lol ....... Just got in from working on the 92LS . I switch the igniters, TPS, MAF and ECU from my 91LS . The car still runs the same . I installed the listed components from the 92LS on the 90LS and the d$m thing still runs like a champ . I did find one(1) problem though, the trunk wiring harness had a broken white/black wire that I soldered back together . After installing the parts on the 92, I let it run for a while and then kicked the computer into diagnostic mode; no codes were found . My mind is telling me that I have a blockage somewhere in my exhaust system, but since I'm no Lexus expert, I would like some feedback concerning this . ALL thoughts, help and advice will be taken VERY seriously; therefore feel free to voice whatever you think . Once again, thanks to everyone for your help concerning this matter . (Note : Have checked the firing repeatedly, and all wires are firing on both banks, even under the small reving that I can do before the car shuts off. Don't know if I mentioned it before, but once the car dies after I try to rev it, the onlt way that it will resart is if I take a spark plug out .)

I really appreciate you taking the time out to advise and help me; thanks . I have a running LS(1990) that I use for a daiy driver, and all the parts that I even thought were bad has been swapped between these vehicles . So now both vehicles have new everything on them lol (The 90 LS runs perfect) . But to get back to your question, it doesnt make i difference if the car is hot or cold, it still idles the same; and yes it is running super rich . I have been told that my ECM is in limp home mode because the ECM is not getting a rebound(confirmation) signal from the no. 1 igniter . I was given a diagram that showed which pins to check for that signal, but it was wrong because none of the connections that plug into my ECM have ten(10) pins. Can anyone help me with a diagram ? Gonna go clear the ECM and switch the igniters to see if the ECM throws the code to igniter no. 2, and post my findings .

Thanks for that bit of advice, but I do believe that my problem is alittle more complicated than that . I would like to clarify and state that contrary to what you may believe, I am not using a shot gun approach, the repairs that I have done were already going to be done anyway . I concientiously take care of my vehicles; that fact that the LS sat up for 3-4 years before I bought it, demanded that I perform the repairs .... But you're right, I do have a fuel problem, but not in the sense that you are thinking; I am running way too rich, not lean . Secondly, eventhough my car idles, giving it just alittle bit of gas stalls it, and the only way that you can get it to run and idle again is to pull a spark plug out, turn the engine over a few times, reinstall the plug, and then it will run again ..... I just came in from checking the IAC valve, and while I was at it, I kicked the computer in diagnostic mode . I am getting codes 14(ignition no. 1 signal) & 31(air flow meter signal) . Anyone familiar with those two(2) codes ? ....... Am hoping that someone out there has been where I am at now and can advise me as to my next step ...... Is it possible that when the p/s pressure valve was letting gas be sucked back into the intake manifold that it stopped up my cats, and I am getting too much back-pressure ?

I have a problem with my LS that I posted in the new members forum (Introduction), but no one has gotten back to me as of yet . Thinking that I may have put my problem in the wrong place, I am submitting it here for your help......... Earlier in the year I bought a 1992 LS with the insurance money from my 1990 LS that got totaled . I got a good deal on the car because the previous owner had problems with the ignition system and wanted to get rid of it; the car had been sitting up three years . Being a mechanic, I figured it wouldn't be a big deal to fix . I got the car home, changed all the fluids, gave it a COMPLETE tune up (plugs, wires,caps & rotors) and changed out the fuel pump as well as the related filters . When I tried to start the car, it wouldn't .So I attempted to put the computer into diagnostic mode, and then found out I couldn't because it didn't have an ECM . I purchased one, ran a diagnostic and found out that one of the coils wasn't firing . After I replaced it, the car ran just fine, and became my daily driver . On my way to work one day, I noticed white smoke coming out of the tial pipes . I pulled over to get a look see, and found out that the vacum pressure switch on the p/s pump had malfuctioned and was letting the fluid get sucked back into the intake manifold . I blocked off the lines and headed to work . On the way home, the car started loosing power, I couldn't get it to go over 40mph . I had it towed home . The next morning when I started the car, I ran just fine; but on my way to work, it started to loose power once again, and I noticed the low coolant light come on (bird cage with a ball on top) . Since then, the car idles just fine, but when you give it gas,it bogs down and shuts off . I have done a leak down test, a compression test, a fuel pressure test, replaced the timing belt, the water pump and bought another computer; but its still doing the same thing . Can anyone out there offer any advice concerning this ? Thanks

Hello everyone, my name is Randy aka BangEmBoy; and I just want to say hello and introduce myself into the community ...... On another note, I have a problem that I need desperate help with .... Earlier in the year, I bought a 1992 Lexus LS 400 that had been sitting up for a few years . The owner couldn't get a firing problem solved (right bank kept needing a new coil every other month), so they parked it and bought another . I had the car towed home and stared diagnosing the problem . The first thing that I did was try to get the computer in diagnostic mode, and found out that it didn't have a computer, so I bought one . Further diagnostic revealed that the fuel pump wasn't working, so I changed it and all the filters as well, then I found out that it wasn't firing on the right bank (passenger side), so I replaced the coil, as well as gave the car a complete tune up (plugs, wires,rotors and caps) . Then I changed all the fluids . After I was done with my maintainance, the car cranked right up, and I drove it for about two(2) weeks . Then on my way to work one day, I noticed white smoke coming from the back of the car . I pulled over and checked it out, and found out that the pressure switch on the back of the power steering pump was bad and that the power steering fluid was being sucked back into the intake manifold . I blocked off the lines and drove to work . On the way home, the car started to loose power, and I noticed that a yellow light that looks like a bird cage with a ball on top of it came on . I parked the car and had it towed home . The next day, I cranked the car up, and it drove fine, so I decided to drive it to work again . The same thing as before happened, it started loosing power . The next morning when I cranked the car, it idled just fine, but when I gave it gas, it died, and wouldn't start back . I pulled the plugs to see if any were fouled, and when I replaced them, the car cranked and idled just fine; but died once again when I gave it gas . I decided to find out what was really going on so I did a compression check, a leak down test, fuel pressure test and ignition (spark) test's . All test were within specs except for the leak down and compression test's on cylinder 8 .(160 lbs of compression) . Knowing how stout the LS engine is, experience told me that that wouldn't account for the symptoms that I was getting from the car . Since the car sat for as long as it did, I decided to to change the timing belt and the water pump; when I finised I rediagnosed the car; and foud out that the injectors are not pulsing . They have fire (12.78 volts) going to them, but no ground signal . I put the computer in diagnostic mode, and codes 24 & 31 showed (I had forgotten to plug the air flow meter) . I plugged the air flow meter in, cleared the codes, and tried to start the car with the same results as before . Just to be on the safe side, I once again entered diagnostic mode, no codes, but the check engine light now constantly flashes . Can anyone help me out with what I am going through ? Thanks .