BangEmBoy

Took the advice, same results with New Battery . Any other suggestions ?

Hey Guys & Gals, been awhile since I've been on here, but I HAD TO get the Right Information 👊💯💯 . Here goes, I got a 2007 is250 that was driving fine . I changed the battery and now I've got Check Engine, VCS, ABS & No Throttle Response 😱🤯 . Have changed Throttle Body, checked and changed the ETCS fuse, but it's still the same 🤯 . I ran codes and have come up with the following ones ; P0102, P0113, P2118, C0200, C0205 and C1201 . NONE of those codes were present BEFORE changing the battery . I'm just about ready to ditch the car and go back to my SC400 💪💯👊👍, but I like this car and it is fun to drive . Please help . Thx in advance 👊💯👍 .

Gary, I'm back in the Bay Area (Tampa) . PM me with your number .

GREAT post Landar ! I just had to do the exact same thing tonight because the water pump outlet pipe that goes to the heater core came out . The resulting water completely submerged the starter, and it smoked more than the steam from the pipe lol . Only took me about five(5)hrs. though, as I've done the Intake thing atleast six(6) times on my various Lexus's . Love your thoroughness my friend, and I'm Definitely getting me one of those tools from Harbor Freight .

I had a similar problem with one of my LS's, and this is what I did to resolve it; this may or may not help . ... After trying the same things that you did, I took my EGR valves off and cleaned out the passage way's, next I cleaned my throttle body intake, lastly; I cleaned my intake and valves with a bottle of Sea Foam . (Here's how you do that) : look at your intake, in the front you will see two hose's, one big and one small; the big one feed's vacum to your power steering pump . Disconnect that line and get you another piece of hose about two(2) foot long that fits that vacum port . Next start the car and let it idle, then insert the hose that you connected to the vacum port on the intake into the can of Sea Foam . The vacum of the idling engine will suck the Sea Foam out of the can and into the engine . If the engine tries to stall, give it some gas . Let the engine suck about half of the can of Sea Foam, and then let car idle around 1500 rpm's until all the white and or black smoke stop's coming out of the exhaust . The process that I just described, cleans the intake and valves of deposits that build up over the years . I use this process on the vehicles that I service when there is a lope or misfire that isn't attributed to a vacum leak or tune up . I have had to do the procedure twice on vehicles that had alot of build up . I hope that this helps you .

Seems like you and I are in the same boat .. Just for the record, your two(2) code's (25 & 31) means that you have a lean condition (25), and 31 is the MAF sensor . Seeing that you have already changed the MAF sensor and are still getting the code, I would check and see if you have the proper signal from the ECU . If you check out my post, my mentor/friend SRK gives some excellent feedback on my issue's which have the same code's as yours . Our problem has been experienced by other's, and I am combing the post to find a solution . I will keep you posted on anything that I find .

Thank you very much for your feedback and assistance SRK . I will definitely look into your suggestion .... I did putter around with it today, just got in as a matter of fact; I had been advised that the MAF, the TPS and the fuel filter could be the cause of my problems, so I switched the MAF, and the TPS from my running LS . Needless to say; they didn't cure my problem, as a matter of fact, I now got a new code # 31 after the switch lol . I will be switching the parts back, and starting over with your advice on the morrow . Once again, thanks for your advice and help .

Here I go with another good one lol ..... I recently puchased another Lex, this time a 1994 SC400 . When I first got the car, it drove fine . Then about a month ago, the check engine light came on . The DTC's # 25 & #28 indicated that it was running lean and that I have an 02 sensor problem ....Fast forward two(2) weeks, car is running fine, I go to the station and fill it up with gas; when I try to start it, it just turns over . I check everything and find out that I am not getting any spark . I pull the connection plug off of the right side coil to check for current . I had power, I check the other coil and had power there as well . So plugged the coils back in and the car started . It idled for about 2 mins and died . I had the car towed home, the next morning the car cranked up and ran just fine; for about 2 day's, and then did the same thing . I tried to retrieved some DTC's to help me fix the problem, but the check engine light wouldn't blink; and that's when I was given a clue . Whenever I tried to crank the the car, if the light would come on with the key, the car would run; but if it didn't come on, it wouldn't crank . I also noticed that when the light did come on, it would be weak, sorta flashing like it wasn't getting enough power ....That led me to checking my fuses and connection's . When I got to the underhood fuse box, I noticed that the fuel pump relay was warm, so I checked the circuit and found out the turn on wire was only getting about 4 volts . I ran a wire (ignition switched controlled) to supply 12 volts to the relay when the key was on . The car ran fine for two days, then did the no check engine light thing and wouldn't start .....Thinking that it was the ECM (since I couldn't go into diagnostic mode), I had the ECM rebuilt . When I got it back, the car craked up and ran just fine, but it idled erratcally . The RPM's would go up and down, from 1500 to 1000 . Other than that it drove fine with plenty of power . Then I noticed that sometime my RPM gauge and my MPH gauge wouldn't be working, then all of a sudden they would start to working again . I figured that the ECM must not have been built right, so I got another one, and I still have the same problem's; and now on top of that, my transmission isn't locking up . No let me rephase that, it is locking up, and then unlocking when driving . When driving at a steady rate of speed, you can feel it going in and out of lock up .... So far I have put in a new ECM, and a new fuel pump . I would really appreciate any help, feedback and guidance concerning this . I want to thank everyone in advance for your suggestions .

Before I get started on my progress, I just want to thank each and everyone of the memebers of this forum that have provided help, advice and feedback ....... Other responsibilities have kept me away for awhile, that and the purchase of a 1994 SC400 . I've had so much fun (and problems lol) driving the d#m trhing that I kinda put the old LS on the back burner . I have the new heads, but have decided to pull the engine and do a total rebuild, and have puchased a used engine to put in the LS until I get the other engine done . I will be posting some pics soon . I am about to start a new topic (D#m SC !) about my recently puchased SC400 that I am having problems with, and I would appreciate any and all feedback concerning the issue's/problems that I am having with it .

You are 100% right Landar, I was wrong to reply in kind and I apologise to SRK and anyone else that I may have offended . I just have this peeve about people with condescending attitudes ....If I can't help you, I won't mislead you or look down on you, because none of us are perfect or know it all... I want to thank Landar, Curious B and 1992Lexus personally for all the advice, support and help that you gave . You all helped me to see it as a problem, and not just a Lexus problem . If I would have just used my mechanical common sense, this problem would have been diagnosed and fixed a long time ago; so in that aspect, SRK was right . I trully hope that my experience will help the other member's on this site ....... I found some Lexus only quirk's when I was disassembling the engine to take the head's off . Where can I post these, so that other member's can be aware of them if they ever have to take thier head's off ? Also where can I post pic's of the disassembly/reassembly ? Once thank's everyone for all your help, advice and support .

If you would quit being an a-hole and read the entire post, you would know that the leak-down and compression test's failed . The water pump couldn't fix what was already broken . Go find you a Barbie doll to play with and leave me alone !

Instead of replying to the negativity of the recent posts to my issue, I'm gonna be the mature one about this and just say that after tearing down my engine today, I had a blown head gasket between the no. 6 & no. 8 cylinders .... Anyone with any kind of mechanical apptitude knows that (1) if you have a stuck valve, when the engine come's up on the compression stroke on that cylinder it's gonna blow the compression out of the cylinder because the valve is stuck open; (2) if your cats are stopped up, everytime the intake valves open up, compression is gonna leak back into those cylinders, because it has nowhere else to go (3) if you have ran a car hot enough to the point that the ring's collapse, you are gonna get crankcase back-pressure that's gonna come back out of that cylinder as soon as that valve opens up, and (4) if you have a blown head gasket between two cylinders, the pressure from the compression stroke is gonna leak to the ajoining cylinder and out the valve's as soon as they open . I learned a long time ago that if I don't know something, I ask; I don't jump to conclussions or tell someone else that they are wrong, just because I don't have or know the answer . I get me a book , or lean upon the knowledge and experience of someone that's more knowledgeable than me . And just for the record, I am an ASE Certified Master Mechanic with shop's (Supreme Clientel) in two (2) loacation's (Alabama & Florida), and have been in this field for over 30 years, but that doesn't make me the smartest or the best mechanic in the world, nor does it give me the big head to think that I'm too good to ask for clarification of an issue that I'm not familiar with . Before I go, I just want to let everyone here know that, It's best to fix a problem than try to put it off, or patch it; because it will come back to bite you . Some people say that I took a shot-gun approach to my problem, if thats your opinion, then that's on you . I know my skills, abilities and bank account lol . When I bought the car, It had sat up for 3-4 years . I didn't know it's history, and I wasn't gonna take the chance of just patching a problem that could possibly lead to another problem . That's why I fixed everything, I would rather be safe than sorry; my wife and daughter will be driving this car . I care more about them than somebody's opinion . (Remember the old saying about opinions lol) . My new heads (shot-gun ? lol) will arrive at my shop in Alabama Saturday morning, by Saturday evening I will have the car back together and driving it to my daughter in Florida . I'll keep you all posted . I want to once again thank the people that offered me advice and feedback concerning the issue that I presented in this forum . I learned alot from you guy's/gal's . Special thanks goes out to Mark, thanks man for everything today .

I want to thank each and everyone personally or thier feedback to my post . It is rare that I get stumped on a vehicle . I have been in the automotive field for many years, and if I would have used my mechanical common sense, this problem would have been licked some time ago; but by me not being Lexus familiar, I chose this forum for help . Now that i've had the time to analyze thing's to the fullest, I believe that I have a stuck valve, collasped rings, or a blown head gasket . My reasoning ? I have way too much back pressure on the engine, and also when I did my leak down test, # 8 was leaking substantially . Eventhough there is no water mixing with the oil, I'm leaning heavily on the head gasket therory because I noticed today when I had the car idling that steam was coming back out of my intake opening when I took off the MAF tube, and the fact that I have to take a spark plug out to get it to run . I could be wrong, so therefore I am asking the community to give me thier feedback once again .

First off I want to thank everyone for thier input and advice on my post . I have found out what my problem is, but not what's causing it . I have so much back-pressure that it blows off my vacum lines ! I have a cap on my intake that blocks off one of the ports, and at every turn of the engine, that cap blows off . All of the thing's that I have done to the LS needed to be done, so I aint mad, I just want it running again . Do you think that when the p/s pump valve went bad and was sucking the fluid back into the intake that it burned a valve, or stopped up my exhaust system ? Looking for help and advice on this . Thanks

I definitely have a back-pressure problem thats stopping the car from cranking . Is there anyone out there that has experienced this problem ? If so, what steps did you do to fix it ?