Tracilex

There is no code. I have a code reader. I agree w/ what you said. I'm thinking I had a false alarm. Thanks

Let me start by saying I might need to pull a log off the fire. A wife's perception of reality can be night and day different from the truth. The RX cooled off and I took it out for a ride. It "hung up" in 3rd gear not 2nd, exactly the way it is designed to do until the tranny warms up. I then had her come out for a ride w/ the OD off. I ran it up to highway speed and asked if this was what she was experiencing. She said yes. I turned the OD on and all was well. She swears it was something else. She will drive it again tomorrow and give me more precise detail of what she was experiencing. If it really is something more, I will sure to be back on here. Till then I will commence to giving her some of this and keep my fingers crossed... :chairshot: I know I might eat these word (I sure hope not), but I have to say that the VAST majority of people claiming that they have had serious tranny problems on this site likely didn't judging by the problems they described. Shifting issues, lack of engagement does not warrant a tranny replacement. Smoke, terrible noises, fires and explosions most definitely do. It sounds as though the VAST majority have had problems w/ clogged/stuck valves, or solenoid issues. Ya, it sucks, but most of that stuff can be cleared up w/ a good flushing/cleaning. Yota, goes the extra mile to make the customer happy by giving them a new unit bc sometimes clog/sticking issues can't always be resolved on the 1st pass. To avoid safety issues or a *BLEEP*ed off customer they bend and give out new trannies. It just seems that this issue has been blown out of proportion to scare people like me that likely (I hope) don't have a problem. NOTICE: The above opinion was given with the understanding that at the time I wrote this I knew what the hell I was talkig about. If I come back in the future crying bc the tranny grenaded, please forget the above paragraph. Thanks!!

My wife's 99 RX AWD has 76k miles. When cold she has recently had issues w/ it not wanting to shift out of 2nd. She gets in the car and w/ in .3 mile she is on the freeway. The tranny doesn't have time to warm up. When warm it is fine, but I'm sure it shouldn't be stuck at highway speed in 2nd even when cold. According to service records it was drained and filled around 55k (previous owner). I checked the tranny fluid and it was a little low. It was a little off color, but not as some others have described on here. I suspect it was that way since it was changed last. I added a little T-IV, but it hasn't helped. What to do? I'm thinking of drain and filling, but I don't know if it will help. I know the arguements about flushing, but in this case it might be needed.??

I think I've got this one licked... The noise is coming from the servo motor that moves the door for the "mode" button. This servo moves diverters to change from vent to floor, etc. - I popped the bottom panel off under the glove box. - I then removed the glove box assembly. 2 screws up high, 2 bolts down low. - With the key on engine off you can press the mode button and watch the servo move. Turn the key completely off. - Remove 3 screws and plug to take the assembly out. - Do not attempt to rotate the arm on the end of the servo. It engages w/ a worm gear. Turn it and you will break gears. - The servo is a snap together unit. Carefully take it apart w/ the arm side down.(so gears don't fall out) - inside you will see multiple whiper fingers that make contact w/ a gear. Carefully clean these w/ alcohol and a cotton swab. - Redistribute the contact grease on the whiper pad w/ a clean finger (any oil or lotions on skin will mix w/ the grease and make the copper contacts corrode. - Carefully snap unit back together. - Clean contacts on the outer part of servo also w/ alcohal. The other option is to have Lexus diagnose this for you and hit you for $160 for the part plus ~ an hour or 2 labor. So far the noise is gone and the HVAC system works properly. I will post any updates if the problem comes back. I think the problem was caused by crusty contacts in the servo that were creating a poor signal back to the computer that controls it. Now that it has a clean signal, all is well..... I hope!!!

HVAC is Heating Ventalation and Air Conditioning. The problem in our 99' are the motors adjusting the vents. The problem is that they won't stop adjusting. The only way I can get them to settle in is to manually select a vent or floor setting. I don't think they should be moving continuously. Any ideas why they would move and adjust eraticly? How to fix?

Our 99' has this anoying clicking noise in the dash behind the instrument cluster. I can make it stop if I aply pressure to the dash. I pulled the cluster out and stuffed foam back through the cluster area to under the windshield. It worked ok for about a month, now it is worse than ever. Any suggestions for a permanent fix?

We have the same problem on our 99'. The radio and HVAC were off and it still did it. Sounds like solenoids or motors running in the dash behind the radio counsol controls. What is it?

ColinBarber, Thanks for the quality info! I don't think there is another code. The guy at Autozone said there were 2 total, both the same. One in short and one in long term memory. I'll pull the fuse and leave it out for a few minutes and see if it goes away.

The wife and I just picked up a 99' RX last weekend and we managed to have a double whammy in one day. She got hit in the parking lot (thankfully she got the other drivers info) and a half hour later the check engine light came on. The code is P0136, the O2 after the cat. - 1st of all, why the hell does the sensor cost over $400 aftermarket from local parts stores?!?!?! Oxygen sensors.com has one for $100. I hope they are correct. - 2nd I thought this would be a simple fix. WRONG. It appears as though the nuts holding the retaining plate in have rotted off or someone has screwed with it before and welded in another sensor. It looks as if they have welded around the protruding studs to hold the plate in. Does anyone know how to remove this sensor?? It has no visible hex to put a wrench on. - Lastly, I'm wondering that if I run an engine cleaner through the PCV intake system like Seafoam that it might clean the sensor w/o removing it. Would the check engine light simply go off? Is the only way to kill a code is to disconnect the battery? I pulled the EFI fuse and the light was still on. Thanks in advanced!

I'm considering buying a 99' RX. I'm concerned about enigine maintenance after pulling off the oil fill cap and seeing a thick black coating on part of the head. I highly doubt this is a good sign, but I'm not that familiar w/ Yota/Lex 3 liters. For all of you that maintane your Rx's, what does it look like under the cap?