stufadrummer
-
Posts
20 -
Joined
-
Last visited
stufadrummer's Achievements
-
i had thought the fuel pump might be an issue i cant find a service port on the fuel rail so i just cracked the lines and got lots of spray. The car has no issues accelerating lot of power there so i dont think fuel is an issue. thanks for the input fsuguy
-
both should work i have used starting fluid before and found leaks. i do got propane so ill give it a try see if there is a diference
-
those are all good tire choices and cost a pretty penny i am currently running nexxen n3000 on my is300 and i love them not to expensive and have awesome traction and good tread wear you should look into them on my ls400 im trying a newer company i hadnt heard of called Duro so far i like them, the tire shop i got them from said they compare to azenis but i think he was just trying to be a salesman but they cost me $115/ea in a 235/35R19. There are a lot of good inexpensive tires out there that will perform the way you want mostly depends on personal preference. good luck
-
very good input SRK . i checked all possible codes for OBD1 and IAC is not a possible code. im starting to think i got a vacuum leak i cant find. but i will keep looking
-
so that pretty much leaves me with air filter, MAF, IAC, vacuum leak thanks curious B for taking alil time though biggest thing that gots me confused is that it runs perfect untill it reaches operating temp. then my problems start
-
so my problem is still there but now its acting differently now when i start the car cold it idles just fine, drives fine no issues once the car reaches operating temp my idles wants to die off when the issue arises am im driving or coasting i can feel the car want to jerk but only when im not touching the gas
-
A New Ecu Tool Can Do Cars,trucks And Motorbikes
stufadrummer replied to paulenka1's topic in 92 - 06 Lexus ES250/300/330
did a google search and this is what i found looks promising if you go threw with it keep us updated http://www.obd2motor.com/fgtech-galletto-2-master-ecu-chip-tuning_p5473.html -
only reason im questioning comp. is because it is unable to trip code for IAC not in its logic and since IAC directly effects idle flow rates it would adversely make the airflow meter have an unsteady frequency making the ecu believe the MAF to be the cause for its troubles (just a thought) i have checked for vacuum leaks both by ear and starting fluid and find nothing im taking a trip to the junk yard tomorrow hopefully maybe i can get lucky and find both a MAF and an IAC .. lets see if i can get really lucky find both and both be in working condition lol i did find an IAC on ebay for $74 but alil hesistant to order in fear of recieving a bad part although the guy is rated as a top seller
-
1994 Ls 400 Master Key 1 Button Remote
stufadrummer replied to lexlove's topic in 90 - 00 Lexus LS400
i couldnt find any thing for a key with transponder but sewell carries a master key without transponder should be able to open trunk and glove box which only master key can do but here is the site $69 is not to bad and i couldnt find find anything on ebay for ya plus side is you should be able to get cut at a local hardware shop maybe since it wont need no programming downside no keyless entry did you lose you original master key with transponder http://lexus.sewellparts.com/accessories-catalog/Keys/LS400-1994-347.html -
i tried to explain exactly what happened to me over a month period in one post and it didnt work out so well. So im goin to edit that post and put "IF NOT INTERESTED IN THE WHOLE STORY AND JUST WANT THE MEAT SKIP FIRST POST" you think this might help
-
ok so alil up date i start the car at about 2pm it starts than dies i keep alive with gas and drive slow with two feet to store park and turn her off come back out starts with out gas pedal and idles on its own drive home with one foot. Brake and go a few times idles perfect does not die let sit in drive way while idleing to get to operating temp idles fine for first 2-3 min than starts to jump the RPM around up to 1000 RPMs down to 200 RPMs settles at 650 RPMs for amin or less jumps around again but does not die get to operateing temp check engine light starts to come on and than go off car dies restart without gas pedal steady RPM around 750 RPMs starts to jump around. check engine light come on when jumpy. steadys out light goes off car dies jump connector get code 31 airflow meter but i dont believe this is right. Im thinking the IAC (which failed bench test) (IAC can not throw a code) is intermittenly going in and out causing a fluctuation in airflow making the ECU see an unsteady reading and causing ECU to throw airflow code also maf passed alll multi meter spec checks but am goin to try the frequency test again if i can get the car to stay on and replicate the fluctuation of RPMs
-
since this is the wheel setup topic i have a ? when the time eventually comes that i need new tires i want to up grade to a 255/??/ZR18 i already have rolled fenders on 225/40ZR18 cause they did rub with out. I can roll my fenders more. now does anybody have any experience with this much tire? will they fit with rolled fenders or am i going to have to replace fenders? i have dreamed of a wide body that does not take away from stock body lines such as cutting ,extending, and molding the stock wheel well 2"-3" making room for super wide like 19x12 in rear and 19x10 in front Volks (just a dream for now) really looking for repliers with experience on this much tire but all comments are welcome... Thank you in advance and come on im pretty shure everybody would like to know if this possible
-
thanks for the advice well keep in mind on future posts i tried readjusting the TPS both ways first with a multi meter and some jumper wire i took from a honda junk harness for the map sensor connector just took the individual pins out perfect fit each female mini connector fit the pins of TPS snug. and i tried turning the TPS all the way clockwise (suppose to make a high idle) car still dies last thing i did was tighten the throttle cable did not help just made RPM's jumpy car still die no matter how much i tighten the cable so i put back to original postion i pulled the IAC apart again and since it is passing its windings resistance check i checked the bearings out and the rear smaller bearing seems to be sticky causing the IAC to not snap back like i am assuming it is suppose to. According to the service manual your suppose to hear a snap/click sound when you shut the car off which i dont hear. has anyone attempted to replace this bearing it does have a part # number on it ill update later when i take it off again. if replacing this bearing could be a fix it could be a lot cheaper than the $1000 price tag the IAC carries new
-
mfg. DUB flat black 18x10 40mm wrapped in Nexen N3000 225/40ZR18 dropped with Tein ss 1.9/2.1 i believe
-
just a suggestion but check the dust shield behind the brakes its real easy to slightly bend them with your hand and that has happened to me just bend them back
