palacie

Shirley,

fingers are crossed. :D

Hi guys,.... Sorry to be so tardy in replying to you caring ones but since I didn't have my car from last Monday to Friday, I've been going crazy trying to catch up on my Christmas shopping.

Anyway.... After the first mechanic did the timing belt job and the car was not wanting to shift easily when it was cold, I told you that I took it back it to him and he took it in the back for about 10 minutes and then said it had nothing to do with their job and I should go to a transmission shop. I finally ended up going to another mechanic, as I told you, and after driving it cold, he advised me to call the first mechanic and tell him I took it to someone for a 2nd opinion and it was that the timing of the gears in the front of the motor should be rechecked (or words to that effect). Well, wouldn't you know that when something was said by another mechanic, the first dweeb was sweet as pie and said to bring it back in. So, the last mechanic drove it over to him and lo and behold, they HAD done something wrong! No surprise to me! It was all just too coincidental.... It turned out that 'one tooth' was off, or 'it was off a tooth' if that makes any sense to you DIY guys. So, problem solved! My car now shifts just fine, cold or warm, just like it did before. If any of you ever have a problem like this after a timing belt job, just remember to recheck those 'teeth'; apparently they are tricky little things.

Also, at the last mechanic's, after the timing belt thing was resolved, he replaced the valve cover gaskets, front and rear. That cost me $379.00. So, now, no more burning smell. Yay!.....

The latest thing is: When I picked up my car, the owner (with whom I had been dealing) had left early and one of his other mechanics said a CV boot is shot and needed replacing. He said maybe that's why the first mechanic said I should have both axles replaced as a preventive thing due to labor involved. Do you guys agree with that? When a CV boot is gone, is it better to just have that done or go for the axle job and should it be both at once, if only one boot looks bad? What price should I anticipate for the boot job or the axle job? So, this is the thing I could use advice on now..... it's always something, isn't it?

Thanks again for all your advice and concern,

Shirley

Shirley,

Did you ever get your problems resolved on your ES? 

 

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Hi,.... You really are such a caring guy; I hope that your family appreciates you!

Re: my car, I took it in today to a 3rd mechanic because as you know, I had many different (and conflicting) stories from the last two. I had to leave it overnight because it only acts up (insofar as the shifting) when it's cold which, as I've said, it 'never' did before the timing belt job.

Keep your fingers crossed for me that it's not something horrendously wrong.

I'll keep you posted as soon as I know the 'verdict'.

Shirley

the PCV valve is a $7 part but they will get you for a minimum of 1 hours labor.  It actually takes about 20 minutes from start to shutting the hood.

Have done as part of the valve cover gasket repair.

steviej

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the las ttime i ahad a place change a PCV valve, it was 56 dllars.

i wouldnt lose faith in all mechanics just yet.

the only reason i havent done mine is becuase that snot the only place mien is leaking. i have every seal onthe motor dripping oil except for the rear main seal.

speaking of rear main seal, is it possible that thats what is leaking?

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I have no idea if it's the rear main seal. All I know is that two different mechanics have said the valve cover gasket, the first one was the guy who did the timing belt replacement, etc., and the second was the one who did the work about a month ago when mice ate through some wiring. Of course, I don't trust either one now, due to other contradictory stuff they have said. For example, the timing belt guy said I need a transmission flush; the second said my fluid looks fine w/good color. The first one also told me my axle shafts are shot and the bearings are dry, even though there are no symptoms of that. The first one said I need a PCV valve to the tune of $87.00; it was the second one that said the engine warning light would come on if I did. See why I have no faith? I guess a 3rd is in order at this time.

Shirley

Shirley,

your ES has two valve covers, front and rear.  It is a V6 engine so it has two cylinder heads and two valve covers.  Your mechanic may think it is an inline 6 (some Lexus have this type of engine) in which there would only be 1 long valve cover.

The price is about right, though I would have expected a little less on the hours needed since the front cover is very easily accessable.  The rear cover is not so readily accessable.

It is driveable temporarily. however keep an eye on your oil level at least weekly and keep your nose pinched (to avoid the odor).  Just remember, little leaks become big leaks if not repaired in due time.

As for the PCV valve: 

It is not a sensored part, meaning there are no electronics directly connected to the part.  Direct failure or partial malfunction of the PCV will not set off a CEL (check engine light) as an O2 sensor, knock sensor, ABS sensor, throttle position sensor, or similar would.  However, failure or partial malfunction of the PCV will have a trickle effect where problems will manifest themselves elsewhere.  These problems will then create conditions that may set off other sensors that will inturn trigger the CEL.

Again, get a second opinion.  Try a Toyota dealership, too.  The motor is the same as a 93 Camry and their hourly rate is a little less than Lexus.

steviej

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Thanks very much for your reply. Yes, I will have to get another opinion. My car does not leak oil at all and every time I check it, it is at the full line. The smell is not real strong, not noticeable at all until I get out of the car. But, again, I do want it to be taken care of.

Re: the PCV valve, do you have any idea what replacing that might cost? I guess it's one of those things I should do at 74,000 miles as a preventive measure. However, my last attempt at preventive maintenance, (the timing belt job) sure did work out as I had hoped. As I've said in my previous posts, my car was shifting like a dream and it was only 'after' the timing belt replacement, that it began to hesitate and shift roughly into gear when cold. It's just hard to believe that this big difference is just a 'coincidence'. But, I guess I'm stuck between a rock and a hard place. Now, I've lost faith in TWO mechanics. I guess they see an older lady come in and know they have a soft touch.

Thanks again,

Shirley

Hi all,

I need more advice regarding my valve cover gasket problem. I took my car to my friendly neighborhood garage today, the one who did the work about a month ago when mice ate through a lot of wiring and the one whom I 'thought' had told me they also changed the valve cover gaskets. Well, it turns out that they hadn't done that. The owner's wife said that she told me at the time that it needed doing.

So, the mechanic took another look at it and said that the valve cover gasket was leaking oil onto the exhaust. They gave me a price of about $300.00 to replace it; they said the part itself was only about $20.00 but that it was about 3 or 4 hours labor @ $68.00 per hour. Does that sound about right in southern California?

Another thing.... I asked them about the rear valve cover gasket and was that alright? She said that there 'isn't' any valve cover gasket in the rear but you guys are mentioning the front and rear ones all the time. So, what is that all about? Is there another name for the one in the rear? Now, I'm really confused....

Is it safe to drive the car for awhile this way, with the burning smell after driving it, but no oil leaks on the driveway? I don't want to do any more damage.

One last thing.... I asked her about the PCV valve (I hope that's the right name)and she said that if there was a problem with that, the engine warning light would come on. Is that correct? My car is a '93 with about 74,000 miles on it. I don't know if it's ever been changed because I bought it used.

Your answers will sure be appreciated.

Shirley

Get well soon Shirlrey & let us know how you made out.  I hope all your concerns are resolved quick.  :)

 

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Hi alll,

Well, here's my update, such as it is.... I took the car back to the mechanic today and after checking it over, he said that the problems had nothing to do with the work they did. (No surprise there; of course, it wouldn't be anything 'they' did wrong). He said the one problem, the hesitating and slowing down when it was cold was a transmission problem... just 'coincidental' that it drove perfectly before I drove it into his shop. He suggested that I take it to a transmission shop even though the last time I was at his place, he told me that within a few months he should do a transmission flush.

Re: the burning smell, he said it was oil leaking onto the exhaust from the valve cover gaskets and they needed replacing. When I told him that just about a month ago, when mice had eaten away some of my wiring, that I thought the valve cover gaskets were replaced, he looked surprised and said I should take it back to that garage. So, that was that with him.

I called the place that had replaced the wiring, along with much else, and they said to bring it in tomorrow and they would check the valve cover gaskets. The owner was about to leave and couldn't recall if they had, in fact, done the cover gaskets. So, that's where it stands for now.

What I am wondering now is, if the valve cover gaskets were 'not' replaced, do any of you have any ideas about a ball park figure for doing that? As I've said, this is southern California, where they charge high prices for everything. Good lord, I hope that this latest isn't another job involving hundreds of $'s.

As always, your advice will be greatly appreciated. Please answer right away as I am taking it in tomorrow and want to be semi-prepared at least.

Thanks again,

Shirley

Any luck with the ES Shirley? 

   

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Hi,.... Thanks for asking. I came down with a cold and cough and since the weather is so terribly cold here (yes, it's southern California), even going down to 26 degrees(!) on our patio last night, I was afraid to go anywhere. If I feel better tomorrow, I'm planning to take the car back to the mechanic then.

Thanks again for your kindness and concern,

Shirley

I agree with steviej's advice Shirley......phone your mechanic that performed this work first thing in the morning to get the ball rolling.  How far is your mechanic from where you live roughly? 

 

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Yes, I will be calling the mechanic tomorrow. Today, I drove it a bit and I would say, the more I think about it, that the smell is more like burning rubber. The mechanic is roughly five miles or so away.

Shirley

I think we are all just getting back from vacation and travels.

The only thought that I have concerning the smell is a concurrent valve cover gasket leak (common problem with older ES's.)

Shirley, was the smell there before the timing belt was done? If so, you may have a very small leak around one of the valve covers. If the smell came with the return of the car after the timing belt, then maybe a seal that is involved with the timing belt may be suspect.

As for the hesitation in the tranny, when was the last time that the tranny fluid was flushed? If this problem manifested itself with the advent of the timing belt repair then maybe a vacumm hose or sensor is disconnected and needs to be hooked up. It is easy to bump a hose or a wire out of place.

In any event, I would take it back to the mechanic that did the timing belt and see what he says. He shouldn't charge you if all these go back to the timing belts repair.

steviej

Hi guys,

To answer your questions, I believe that the valve gasket covers were replaced about a month ago when I had the problem of mice eating away some wiring. I do recall a faint burning odor awhile back but it disappeared after the last job.

Regarding the transmission, the last mechanic (who did the timing belt job) said I should have it flushed within the next few months, that it was okay for now.

This is an itemization of what he did do: timing belt, replace water pump, coolant, timing belt idler pulley (#1 idler pulley and #2 idler pulley), tensioner, alternator drive belt, a/c compressor drive belt, thermostat, thermostat cover housing. All this, with labor, came to $898.82 (Southern California prices, I guess)....

So, does it sound as if any of the stuff that was just done could be related to the smell and/or the difference in my once smooth transmission? Maybe that vacuum hose or sensor you mentioned....? It seems so odd that I took in a beautifully running car for preventive maintenance, and ended up with these problems. I was planning to check my transmission fluid yesterday but it was raining here...maybe tomorrow if the weather is better.

Any more suggestions or thoughts would be much appreciated. You're all great.

Shirley

I'm sorry, everybody, for posting my last sad story twice. I didn't realize there was a second page to my saga. Nerves and age are catching up with me....

Shirley

palacie,

Don't take the cap off the radiator when you get back from your little drive.

Just look at the overflow jug.

If it were coolant burning, then I would expect a sweet maple syrup smell.

If it is a rubber smell then I would expect petroleum product of some kind. I am sure something has dripped onto the rear exhuast manifold or leaked and pooled next to it from the timing belt operation.

The ride around the neighborhood is an awesome idea. You may be able to see trails of smoke that will indicate where it is eminating from.

Okay, all you wonderful people, here is my update on my Thanksgiving. First, I did take the suggested test drive all around the neighborhood and when I came back home, sure enough, there was the burning smell again. I lifted the hood and nothing looked strange, except the smell was still evident. I couldn't see the fill line on the coolant reservoir. There was no smoke as I was driving, and no oil was on the driveway. I thought the smell would have been gone by the next day.

But, and this is a big 'BUT', something happened again that I forgot to mention in my last posts because I thought nothing of it at the time. When I drove my car away from the mechanic's, it hesitated for a second and, then, gave a big lurch as it shifted into 2nd gear. Always, my automatic transmission has been as smooth as glass. So, I drove a couple of blocks, thinking that I should maybe drive it right back to the mechanic's. But, it didn't do it again and proceeded to shift smoothly from traffic light to traffic light along a busy main street. So, I thought it was a weird one-shot deal and proceeded on to the gas station and market. But, on Thanksgiving morning, when I went out for my 'test drive', as I was driving out of my driveway, it did it again, hesitated and shifted very roughly into 2nd gear. Then, as I was going along our street, when I tried to accelerate, the car wouldn't respond and chugged along slowly. All of a sudden, it began to respond and picked up speed, shifting smoothly, and feeling like it had before I had the work done. Now, this happened twice, both times when the car was apparently cold.

So, after the problem of the burning smell still occurring, AND the strange response to my attempt to accelerate normally, I was a nervous wreck! I talked it over with my 95 year old mother, who was going to go with me to my son's for dinner, and she definitely vetoed our trip. Long story (not so) short.... we were afraid to make the trip..... and didn't. We ended up going to our friendly Coco's Restaurant for Thanksgiving dinner and, of course, they had run out of turkey and we ended up having a chicken dish.... delicious, by the way. But, it was a very disappointing day, mainly because we didn't get to see our precious grandbabies.

Anyway, now I'm asking all you great guys, do any of you have any idea of what could be causing this 'other' problem, the lurching into 2nd and not responding to the gas pedal? Did that mechanic do something wrong? Do cars behave strangely at first when a timing belt and water pump are changed? Could it be a break-in period? This garage is closed until Monday and I sure would like some facts to confront them with when I call them then.

In the meantime, I am perplexed and worried and nervous....

Shirley

Use flashlight to peek into the collant tank. 

Give us a holler when you get back and let us know how it worked out.   

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I'll take a 'test drive' as suggested tomorrow before I take the freeway. I'll check the coolant, etc. And, yes, 'if' (haha) I get back in one piece, after the actual trip, I'll give y'all a holler and and let you know how it went.

Thanks a million for all your help and advice; say a prayer for me, please.

Shirley

Agreed.....I don't think you would be getting any kind of odor from the bearings being dry......just some noise. You can check to see the coolant tank level even before starting the car (it has marking for both hot & cold levels). You should be fine if it's at the "full cold" level.....

I ran the car for about 5 minutes and then lifted the hood. No smoke, no smell, so you might be right. I couldn't see the coolant tank level because it was too dark outside even with my outside lights on. The mechanic did tell me that all fluids had been checked. Of course, it might be something that occurs only after actually driving it. Right?

Anyway, all I can do is hope and pray that it's nothing serious, and take a 'big' chance on driving to my son's tomorrow for the holiday dinner. He can't pick me up as his wife just had another baby and they have their hands full now with two so he is needed to help with the dinner.

I'll be a nervous wreck, but I am going to chance driving tomorrow.

Thanks for all your help and advice,

Shirley

Maybe it's some gasket sealer or something they used to put on the water pump. Can you check the coolant level? You could try running the engine for awhile, then open the hood and see if there is any smoke or whatever and where it might be coming from. Also check the temperature gauge and see if that's normal.

They told me they filled up the coolant. The temp guage was fine driving home; I'm always checking that. I'll try running the engine and then lift the hood.

I just had another thought.... If you read my earlier posts, the mechanic said that I also needed a front axle replacement as the bearings were dry. He said that I could wait a few months to do that job. Is it possible that the smell is from the dry bearings? Obviously, I'm just grasping at straws here.

Shirley

Maybe some oil spilled on the exhaust or somewhere? Are you sure it's coming from under the hood. Does it smell like sulfur or rotten eggs? Can you describe the smell in more detail?

No, it's not like sulfur or rotten eggs. Rubber, oil....? Definitely coming from the front so I assume it's from under the hood. As I said, in the past I noticed a faint smell but, this time, it's much stronger. Do you think it's safe to drive tomorrow?

Hi again, gang,

Firstly, thanks for all your answers regarding my just done timing belt, water pump, etc., job on my '93 ES300 with 73,000 miles. Well, here's my new problem which causes me concern because I'm supposed to be driving the freeway tomorrow (about 30 miles one way) to go to my son's for Thanksgiving dinner.

After leaving the mechanic's, the car was running fine. I stopped at the gas station to fill up and, then, the market. When I got home, I noticed a burning smell when I got out of the car, coming from under the hood. Supposedly, all the belts and hoses were checked and just recently I had an oil change; I have no oil leaks in the driveway and never have had any. Is this something to be concerned about? I have noticed a 'faint' smell a couple of times in the past but, this time, it was noticeably stronger. So, now, this grandma is scared and wondering if it's even safe to make that drive tomorrow. Obviously, the mechanic was closed when I noticed it, so I couldn't ask him.

Please, somebody, answer this asap because now, I just don't what to do! I sure don't want to break down on the freeway on a holiday. Please HELP!....

Shirley

Hi all,

My ES300 is a 1993 with about 73,000 miles. Due to advice received on this fine board, I took my car to an independent mechanic to have the timing belt replaced. Okay.... the mechanic called and said that I also needed the water pump changed, thermostat, tensioner pulley and idler.... to the tune of $859.00 + tax. I live in the San Fernando Valley of southern California and prices are high here! What do you all think of that price? Am I being gouged and do these other things usually need replacing along with the timing belt? As I've posted here before, I am a grandma and I think (know!) that, sometimes, mechanics take advantage of elder ladies.

Also, he said that my drive axle was bad and that the bearings were dry. If I had agreed to that too, the total price would have increased to about $1400.+. I told him to hold off on the drive axle as I couldn't afford it now. What can you experts tell me about 'that' job? Is it usual for a vehicle, gently driven, to have the drive axle go bad with 73,000 miles on it? Is it safe to drive for awhile?

What are your suggestions for me? Any and all help will be greatly appreciated.

Thanks very much,

Shirley

Hi to all who replied to me,

I just wanted to say 'thank you' to everyone who responded. You all were very helpful! Yes, I will get the timing belt and water pump changed very, very soon.

Thanks again,

Shirley

Hi again, 'Army',

I don't know what the Auto Club is like in your area but here, in southern CA, they have pretty strict guidelines. The places I called are not towing facilities at all, just private repair garages. Here is an excerpt from the Auto Club of So. Ca. site:

"While there are many quality repair facilities, each Approved Auto Repair (AAR) facility is carefully screened and monitored to assure it meets our tough standards and criteria. Sheet metal, paint, glass, and upholstery are not included in the AAR program, although some AAR facilities may offer these services.

The facility listing used in the AAR Online Search is updated regularly. We recommend, however, that when you visit one of these shops, look for the official Approved Auto Repair Sign to be certain it is still part of the AAR Program.

Protection You Can Trust

All motorists, whether or not they are AAA members, have the following protection provided by the AAR program:

High standards - We regularly inspect each AAR facility for compliance with our stringent program standards.

Guaranteed repairs - At AAR facilities, parts and labor on mechanical repairs are guaranteed for 12 months or 12,000 miles, whichever comes first under normal operating conditions.

Reliable repair facilities are not far away - There are over 1,000 AAR facilities in California, Nevada, New Mexico, Texas, Hawaii and Utah to serve you!

There is an additional benefit to AAA members when using an AAR facility. AAR facilities have agreed to accept the Auto Club's decision when a member is concerned about the quality of repairs or service."

I know once in the past, I had work done at an approved facility and was very happy with the work and price. But, that man retired....

Anyway, thanks for the advice about the water pump addition and what the price should be, or shouldn't be. BTW, what did you mean about the gasket? Is that part of the water pump job?

Shirley

Hi everybody,

I just wanted to thank you all for your help and information. I had the $500.00 job done and, as of now, the car is running very smoothly and very quietly.

To the person who mentioned hoses, the mechanic said that he did check all of them. Regarding the price of $285.00 that I got from one garage for the timing belt, it was a AAA approved one, which should mean something good. Right? Someone, I think Army of One, said that I should do the water pump at the same time as the timing belt. Is that always a 'must'? Approximately, how much would that add to the price?

Any more thoughts will be appreciated.

Thanks again; you're a great group!

Shirley

Hi, 'Army of One',

Thanks a million for your long and very educated reply to my post. The mechanic called me late today to tell me that he had found the basic problem which was:

(of all crazy things) mice had been nesting somewhere in the engine area of my car and had chewed many of the wires! We live in a kind of rural area with lots of trees and fields around us. The mechanic said they found lots of mouse droppings and acorns from the oak trees which are all over the place. In addition to that, they said the rotor cap was shot, air filter and fuel filter needed replacing, spark plugs needed, and I forget what else. It all got very confusing. Oh, they recommended an oil change, too. They said the job would run $500.00 so I could do nothing but ok it. Have no idea if that's good or bad, but I was between a rock and a hard place. So, that's my sad story and I'm stuck with it.

They also told me that the valve gasket covers need replacing, due to oil leaking, to the tune of another $185.00. I said to hold off on that for now for monetary reasons. Besides, I have no idea if that is a fair price for that or not, so I will do a little checking before I have it done. I live in the San Fernando Valley of southern California and prices are not cheap here. They also recommended that I have the timing belt changed even tho it looks alright for now. When I told them that Lexus said 90,000 miles on that, the mechanic said that I shouldn't be going by only the mileage but, also, the age of the car. Do you feel that is true? If they do that job, I think he said it would be $435.00. I had called a few places on the timing belt and got prices anywhere from $285.00 to $700.00! What a huge range!

Anyway, thanks again for all your help. Any more advice regarding the other items I mentioned will be greatly appreciated. You are a great guy!

Shirley

Hi to all,

I'm new to your forum and it is very helpful; you are so knowledgeable. Well, I am an older lady who is 'not', knowledgeable, that is. So, here goes:

On my way to the market, I noticed my ES300 idling a little rough, usually smooth and quiet. It has about 70,000 miles on it. Anyway, when I parked, it was running more evenly. After shopping, on the way home, it began idling rougher than before and on a very slight incline, when I needed a little more speed, when I tried to accelerate, it didn't. Instead, it started slowing down. Then, as I approached a stop sign, it started sputtering loudly and slowing down more. Then, it died. I was able to start it up again to the sound of very loud sputtering and it died again and it would not restart. The lights were fine. So, I had it towed to a local mechanic who had done a job for me before. The AAA towing guy told me it was probably the fuel pump because he had me turn the key to the 'On' position and took the gas cap off and said there was no sound of the fuel pump starting up.

BTW, when I stalled, someone who saw it happen said he saw smoke coming out of the rear end.

Okay, so it's at the mechanics. When I called to see if it arrived there alright, the owner said that it might be the timing belt and it should have been replaced at 60,000 miles. She also said, very eerily, "If it's the timing belt, that's a BIG job!"

She made no mention of the possibility of a fuel pump. So, I'm wondering, in your expert opinions, what does this sound like to you from the symptoms I have described? Is there rough idling, sputtering, slowing down, etc. with a timing belt that is going? Or, more likely the fuel pump? It's not like this place is my mechanic of many years standing so I don't know whether to trust them or not.

Of course, I didn't hear this preliminary diagnosis from the mechanic himself; I got it from the co-owner of the place; the other one is her husband. She said that they would look at it more thoroughly tomorrow (actually, now today) and give me a call before they do anything. So, I am hoping, before I am completely at their mercy, to get some good advice from you very knowledgeable folks.

Please help asap; this grandma is very worried! I hope that I've posted correctly.

Thank you all in advance,

Shirley