palacie

Hi,.... You really are such a caring guy; I hope that your family appreciates you! Re: my car, I took it in today to a 3rd mechanic because as you know, I had many different (and conflicting) stories from the last two. I had to leave it overnight because it only acts up (insofar as the shifting) when it's cold which, as I've said, it 'never' did before the timing belt job. Keep your fingers crossed for me that it's not something horrendously wrong. I'll keep you posted as soon as I know the 'verdict'. Shirley

the las ttime i ahad a place change a PCV valve, it was 56 dllars. i wouldnt lose faith in all mechanics just yet. the only reason i havent done mine is becuase that snot the only place mien is leaking. i have every seal onthe motor dripping oil except for the rear main seal. speaking of rear main seal, is it possible that thats what is leaking? ← I have no idea if it's the rear main seal. All I know is that two different mechanics have said the valve cover gasket, the first one was the guy who did the timing belt replacement, etc., and the second was the one who did the work about a month ago when mice ate through some wiring. Of course, I don't trust either one now, due to other contradictory stuff they have said. For example, the timing belt guy said I need a transmission flush; the second said my fluid looks fine w/good color. The first one also told me my axle shafts are shot and the bearings are dry, even though there are no symptoms of that. The first one said I need a PCV valve to the tune of $87.00; it was the second one that said the engine warning light would come on if I did. See why I have no faith? I guess a 3rd is in order at this time. Shirley

Thanks very much for your reply. Yes, I will have to get another opinion. My car does not leak oil at all and every time I check it, it is at the full line. The smell is not real strong, not noticeable at all until I get out of the car. But, again, I do want it to be taken care of. Re: the PCV valve, do you have any idea what replacing that might cost? I guess it's one of those things I should do at 74,000 miles as a preventive measure. However, my last attempt at preventive maintenance, (the timing belt job) sure did work out as I had hoped. As I've said in my previous posts, my car was shifting like a dream and it was only 'after' the timing belt replacement, that it began to hesitate and shift roughly into gear when cold. It's just hard to believe that this big difference is just a 'coincidence'. But, I guess I'm stuck between a rock and a hard place. Now, I've lost faith in TWO mechanics. I guess they see an older lady come in and know they have a soft touch. Thanks again, Shirley

Hi all, I need more advice regarding my valve cover gasket problem. I took my car to my friendly neighborhood garage today, the one who did the work about a month ago when mice ate through a lot of wiring and the one whom I 'thought' had told me they also changed the valve cover gaskets. Well, it turns out that they hadn't done that. The owner's wife said that she told me at the time that it needed doing. So, the mechanic took another look at it and said that the valve cover gasket was leaking oil onto the exhaust. They gave me a price of about $300.00 to replace it; they said the part itself was only about $20.00 but that it was about 3 or 4 hours labor @ $68.00 per hour. Does that sound about right in southern California? Another thing.... I asked them about the rear valve cover gasket and was that alright? She said that there 'isn't' any valve cover gasket in the rear but you guys are mentioning the front and rear ones all the time. So, what is that all about? Is there another name for the one in the rear? Now, I'm really confused.... Is it safe to drive the car for awhile this way, with the burning smell after driving it, but no oil leaks on the driveway? I don't want to do any more damage. One last thing.... I asked her about the PCV valve (I hope that's the right name)and she said that if there was a problem with that, the engine warning light would come on. Is that correct? My car is a '93 with about 74,000 miles on it. I don't know if it's ever been changed because I bought it used. Your answers will sure be appreciated. Shirley

Hi alll, Well, here's my update, such as it is.... I took the car back to the mechanic today and after checking it over, he said that the problems had nothing to do with the work they did. (No surprise there; of course, it wouldn't be anything 'they' did wrong). He said the one problem, the hesitating and slowing down when it was cold was a transmission problem... just 'coincidental' that it drove perfectly before I drove it into his shop. He suggested that I take it to a transmission shop even though the last time I was at his place, he told me that within a few months he should do a transmission flush. Re: the burning smell, he said it was oil leaking onto the exhaust from the valve cover gaskets and they needed replacing. When I told him that just about a month ago, when mice had eaten away some of my wiring, that I thought the valve cover gaskets were replaced, he looked surprised and said I should take it back to that garage. So, that was that with him. I called the place that had replaced the wiring, along with much else, and they said to bring it in tomorrow and they would check the valve cover gaskets. The owner was about to leave and couldn't recall if they had, in fact, done the cover gaskets. So, that's where it stands for now. What I am wondering now is, if the valve cover gaskets were 'not' replaced, do any of you have any ideas about a ball park figure for doing that? As I've said, this is southern California, where they charge high prices for everything. Good lord, I hope that this latest isn't another job involving hundreds of $'s. As always, your advice will be greatly appreciated. Please answer right away as I am taking it in tomorrow and want to be semi-prepared at least. Thanks again, Shirley

Hi,.... Thanks for asking. I came down with a cold and cough and since the weather is so terribly cold here (yes, it's southern California), even going down to 26 degrees(!) on our patio last night, I was afraid to go anywhere. If I feel better tomorrow, I'm planning to take the car back to the mechanic then. Thanks again for your kindness and concern, Shirley

Yes, I will be calling the mechanic tomorrow. Today, I drove it a bit and I would say, the more I think about it, that the smell is more like burning rubber. The mechanic is roughly five miles or so away. Shirley

I think we are all just getting back from vacation and travels. The only thought that I have concerning the smell is a concurrent valve cover gasket leak (common problem with older ES's.) Shirley, was the smell there before the timing belt was done? If so, you may have a very small leak around one of the valve covers. If the smell came with the return of the car after the timing belt, then maybe a seal that is involved with the timing belt may be suspect. As for the hesitation in the tranny, when was the last time that the tranny fluid was flushed? If this problem manifested itself with the advent of the timing belt repair then maybe a vacumm hose or sensor is disconnected and needs to be hooked up. It is easy to bump a hose or a wire out of place. In any event, I would take it back to the mechanic that did the timing belt and see what he says. He shouldn't charge you if all these go back to the timing belts repair. steviej ← Hi guys, To answer your questions, I believe that the valve gasket covers were replaced about a month ago when I had the problem of mice eating away some wiring. I do recall a faint burning odor awhile back but it disappeared after the last job. Regarding the transmission, the last mechanic (who did the timing belt job) said I should have it flushed within the next few months, that it was okay for now. This is an itemization of what he did do: timing belt, replace water pump, coolant, timing belt idler pulley (#1 idler pulley and #2 idler pulley), tensioner, alternator drive belt, a/c compressor drive belt, thermostat, thermostat cover housing. All this, with labor, came to $898.82 (Southern California prices, I guess).... So, does it sound as if any of the stuff that was just done could be related to the smell and/or the difference in my once smooth transmission? Maybe that vacuum hose or sensor you mentioned....? It seems so odd that I took in a beautifully running car for preventive maintenance, and ended up with these problems. I was planning to check my transmission fluid yesterday but it was raining here...maybe tomorrow if the weather is better. Any more suggestions or thoughts would be much appreciated. You're all great. Shirley

I'm sorry, everybody, for posting my last sad story twice. I didn't realize there was a second page to my saga. Nerves and age are catching up with me.... Shirley

I'll take a 'test drive' as suggested tomorrow before I take the freeway. I'll check the coolant, etc. And, yes, 'if' (haha) I get back in one piece, after the actual trip, I'll give y'all a holler and and let you know how it went. Thanks a million for all your help and advice; say a prayer for me, please. Shirley

Maybe it's some gasket sealer or something they used to put on the water pump. Can you check the coolant level? You could try running the engine for awhile, then open the hood and see if there is any smoke or whatever and where it might be coming from. Also check the temperature gauge and see if that's normal. They told me they filled up the coolant. The temp guage was fine driving home; I'm always checking that. I'll try running the engine and then lift the hood. I just had another thought.... If you read my earlier posts, the mechanic said that I also needed a front axle replacement as the bearings were dry. He said that I could wait a few months to do that job. Is it possible that the smell is from the dry bearings? Obviously, I'm just grasping at straws here. Shirley

Maybe some oil spilled on the exhaust or somewhere? Are you sure it's coming from under the hood. Does it smell like sulfur or rotten eggs? Can you describe the smell in more detail? ← No, it's not like sulfur or rotten eggs. Rubber, oil....? Definitely coming from the front so I assume it's from under the hood. As I said, in the past I noticed a faint smell but, this time, it's much stronger. Do you think it's safe to drive tomorrow?

Hi again, gang, Firstly, thanks for all your answers regarding my just done timing belt, water pump, etc., job on my '93 ES300 with 73,000 miles. Well, here's my new problem which causes me concern because I'm supposed to be driving the freeway tomorrow (about 30 miles one way) to go to my son's for Thanksgiving dinner. After leaving the mechanic's, the car was running fine. I stopped at the gas station to fill up and, then, the market. When I got home, I noticed a burning smell when I got out of the car, coming from under the hood. Supposedly, all the belts and hoses were checked and just recently I had an oil change; I have no oil leaks in the driveway and never have had any. Is this something to be concerned about? I have noticed a 'faint' smell a couple of times in the past but, this time, it was noticeably stronger. So, now, this grandma is scared and wondering if it's even safe to make that drive tomorrow. Obviously, the mechanic was closed when I noticed it, so I couldn't ask him. Please, somebody, answer this asap because now, I just don't what to do! I sure don't want to break down on the freeway on a holiday. Please HELP!.... Shirley

Hi all, My ES300 is a 1993 with about 73,000 miles. Due to advice received on this fine board, I took my car to an independent mechanic to have the timing belt replaced. Okay.... the mechanic called and said that I also needed the water pump changed, thermostat, tensioner pulley and idler.... to the tune of $859.00 + tax. I live in the San Fernando Valley of southern California and prices are high here! What do you all think of that price? Am I being gouged and do these other things usually need replacing along with the timing belt? As I've posted here before, I am a grandma and I think (know!) that, sometimes, mechanics take advantage of elder ladies. Also, he said that my drive axle was bad and that the bearings were dry. If I had agreed to that too, the total price would have increased to about $1400.+. I told him to hold off on the drive axle as I couldn't afford it now. What can you experts tell me about 'that' job? Is it usual for a vehicle, gently driven, to have the drive axle go bad with 73,000 miles on it? Is it safe to drive for awhile? What are your suggestions for me? Any and all help will be greatly appreciated. Thanks very much, Shirley

Hi to all who replied to me, I just wanted to say 'thank you' to everyone who responded. You all were very helpful! Yes, I will get the timing belt and water pump changed very, very soon. Thanks again, Shirley

Hi again, 'Army', I don't know what the Auto Club is like in your area but here, in southern CA, they have pretty strict guidelines. The places I called are not towing facilities at all, just private repair garages. Here is an excerpt from the Auto Club of So. Ca. site: "While there are many quality repair facilities, each Approved Auto Repair (AAR) facility is carefully screened and monitored to assure it meets our tough standards and criteria. Sheet metal, paint, glass, and upholstery are not included in the AAR program, although some AAR facilities may offer these services. The facility listing used in the AAR Online Search is updated regularly. We recommend, however, that when you visit one of these shops, look for the official Approved Auto Repair Sign to be certain it is still part of the AAR Program. Protection You Can Trust All motorists, whether or not they are AAA members, have the following protection provided by the AAR program: High standards - We regularly inspect each AAR facility for compliance with our stringent program standards. Guaranteed repairs - At AAR facilities, parts and labor on mechanical repairs are guaranteed for 12 months or 12,000 miles, whichever comes first under normal operating conditions. Reliable repair facilities are not far away - There are over 1,000 AAR facilities in California, Nevada, New Mexico, Texas, Hawaii and Utah to serve you! There is an additional benefit to AAA members when using an AAR facility. AAR facilities have agreed to accept the Auto Club's decision when a member is concerned about the quality of repairs or service." I know once in the past, I had work done at an approved facility and was very happy with the work and price. But, that man retired.... Anyway, thanks for the advice about the water pump addition and what the price should be, or shouldn't be. BTW, what did you mean about the gasket? Is that part of the water pump job? Shirley

Hi everybody, I just wanted to thank you all for your help and information. I had the $500.00 job done and, as of now, the car is running very smoothly and very quietly. To the person who mentioned hoses, the mechanic said that he did check all of them. Regarding the price of $285.00 that I got from one garage for the timing belt, it was a AAA approved one, which should mean something good. Right? Someone, I think Army of One, said that I should do the water pump at the same time as the timing belt. Is that always a 'must'? Approximately, how much would that add to the price? Any more thoughts will be appreciated. Thanks again; you're a great group! Shirley

Hi, 'Army of One', Thanks a million for your long and very educated reply to my post. The mechanic called me late today to tell me that he had found the basic problem which was: (of all crazy things) mice had been nesting somewhere in the engine area of my car and had chewed many of the wires! We live in a kind of rural area with lots of trees and fields around us. The mechanic said they found lots of mouse droppings and acorns from the oak trees which are all over the place. In addition to that, they said the rotor cap was shot, air filter and fuel filter needed replacing, spark plugs needed, and I forget what else. It all got very confusing. Oh, they recommended an oil change, too. They said the job would run $500.00 so I could do nothing but ok it. Have no idea if that's good or bad, but I was between a rock and a hard place. So, that's my sad story and I'm stuck with it. They also told me that the valve gasket covers need replacing, due to oil leaking, to the tune of another $185.00. I said to hold off on that for now for monetary reasons. Besides, I have no idea if that is a fair price for that or not, so I will do a little checking before I have it done. I live in the San Fernando Valley of southern California and prices are not cheap here. They also recommended that I have the timing belt changed even tho it looks alright for now. When I told them that Lexus said 90,000 miles on that, the mechanic said that I shouldn't be going by only the mileage but, also, the age of the car. Do you feel that is true? If they do that job, I think he said it would be $435.00. I had called a few places on the timing belt and got prices anywhere from $285.00 to $700.00! What a huge range! Anyway, thanks again for all your help. Any more advice regarding the other items I mentioned will be greatly appreciated. You are a great guy! Shirley

Hi to all, I'm new to your forum and it is very helpful; you are so knowledgeable. Well, I am an older lady who is 'not', knowledgeable, that is. So, here goes: On my way to the market, I noticed my ES300 idling a little rough, usually smooth and quiet. It has about 70,000 miles on it. Anyway, when I parked, it was running more evenly. After shopping, on the way home, it began idling rougher than before and on a very slight incline, when I needed a little more speed, when I tried to accelerate, it didn't. Instead, it started slowing down. Then, as I approached a stop sign, it started sputtering loudly and slowing down more. Then, it died. I was able to start it up again to the sound of very loud sputtering and it died again and it would not restart. The lights were fine. So, I had it towed to a local mechanic who had done a job for me before. The AAA towing guy told me it was probably the fuel pump because he had me turn the key to the 'On' position and took the gas cap off and said there was no sound of the fuel pump starting up. BTW, when I stalled, someone who saw it happen said he saw smoke coming out of the rear end. Okay, so it's at the mechanics. When I called to see if it arrived there alright, the owner said that it might be the timing belt and it should have been replaced at 60,000 miles. She also said, very eerily, "If it's the timing belt, that's a BIG job!" She made no mention of the possibility of a fuel pump. So, I'm wondering, in your expert opinions, what does this sound like to you from the symptoms I have described? Is there rough idling, sputtering, slowing down, etc. with a timing belt that is going? Or, more likely the fuel pump? It's not like this place is my mechanic of many years standing so I don't know whether to trust them or not. Of course, I didn't hear this preliminary diagnosis from the mechanic himself; I got it from the co-owner of the place; the other one is her husband. She said that they would look at it more thoroughly tomorrow (actually, now today) and give me a call before they do anything. So, I am hoping, before I am completely at their mercy, to get some good advice from you very knowledgeable folks. Please help asap; this grandma is very worried! I hope that I've posted correctly. Thank you all in advance, Shirley