ec437

My driver's seat has a couple annoying problems. First, the right side of the back tilt adjustment mechanism doesn't work right, and breaks again right after I fix it. The other (more) annoying problem is that whenever I come to stop or slow down, the seat rocks forward ever so slightly, and then rocks back again when I accelerate. Only enough to drive me insane. How can I fix that? Has anyone here ever rebuilt their power seats?

the exterior driver's door handle on my ls400 has issues. When I pull on it to open the door, it is loose and feels rough as it lifts. The top of the handle visibly scrapes the frame around it. The rest of the car's door handles open smoothly and are not loose at all. Can I just take apart the door and tighten up some screws, or would a fix be more complicated than that?

BTW what kind of headlight bulbs do you have in that pic?

←

no idea, I haven't changed them since I bought the car.

I KNOW I saw a topic on this before.... but my search turned up nothing and I can't find it anywhere, so how do I remove a bumper sticker?

I mean a complete maintenance manual. Particulary one that tells me torqueing specifications for bolts, lugs and other things of that nature. I got one for my BMW from Bentley Publishers, but they only print manuals for european cars.

I'd have to say... 2005! They're still making them aren't they?

The Legend sucks. I hate ours. Not only because ours is our official beater car and has a funny smelling interior (yeah, thats credited to the leaky sunroof), but because it is FWD. It whole car has a terrible feel to it, IMO. I hate driving it; it handles like a bowl of oatmeal. The LS400 is WAY better. NO comparison. Although, the Acura has been decently reliable for us.

Maybe you should consider a BMW :D

Oh, and the Legend is INCREDIBLY hard to park. I thought the Lexus would be the same way, but in parking lots, it is almost as manuverable as my little 5-speed BMW 3'er was.

how does that cruise control system work, anyways? seems pretty high tech...

www.tapplastics.com

if you have a TAP plastics store in your area, they should be able to help with retrofitting a lexan lense on the laser. good luck.

I went to open my driver side door tonight and the handle seemed to pull too far.  I broke what seems like half of it.  Now when i open the door (still can)  it is very difficult to pull the handle and it scrapes steel on steel. then when i let go of it, it doesnt sit flush with the door anymore!  HELP, if i cant open my drivers door the car is junk!  What can i do, i dont want to risk breaking it anymore!

I've had nothing but problems this year, im ready to just toss it, if this stupid handle cant be fixed easily and cheaply, then im afraid the car is going to have to go.

←

Why do some cars just fall apart, while others don't? I have a car almost identical to yours, mileage and all, but mine is in great shape, its only problem being the broken temp LCD. Even the little, seemingly maitenance free things such as door lock mechanisms and the like operate without any trouble...

I noticed that my 2003 LS430 front wheels are very hot to the touch. Almost to the point of burning your hand and this is for normal around the town driving, no heavy breaking or any kind of brake abuse. I spoke to my Lexus Dealers Service Technician and was told that this is normal. Have any of you experienced this condition?.

←

Uhh, yes, I have, as a matter of fact. We all have. Because it is normal.

Well, just spraying it on and letting it sit for 30 seconds doesn't actually do anything, so I sprayed some on a wheelbrush and scrubbed them a bit. I then hosed them off, but immeadiatley had to drive across town, which caused the wheels to be hot by the time I reached my destination. It may just be me being paranoid, but to me it looks like I screwed up the finish on my wheels pretty bad, although you wouldn't notice if I didn't tell you. How can I fix it?

about your knocking, you are using premium gas, right?

assuming that your rotors arent warped you should check your trailing arms up front and rear. most likely the rear is gone. i did a trailing arm bushing replacement tutorial in the tutorial section, some of your questions may be answered there.

←

alright, but rotors don't warp. I'll get my BMW friends to explain it again :P

←

Rotors don't warp? Is there another name for it or something? Please explain.

←

Nope, no other name for it; "warped rotors" is nothing but a myth. Rotors just don't warp.

This page explains it better than I could:

http://www.stoptech.com/whitepapers/warped_rotors_myth.htm

assuming that your rotors arent warped you should check your trailing arms up front and rear. most likely the rear is gone. i did a trailing arm bushing replacement tutorial in the tutorial section, some of your questions may be answered there.

←

alright, but rotors don't warp. I'll get my BMW friends to explain it again :P

I've noticed it at lower speeds too (below 50 or 60 mph); it seems that when I brake at least marginally hard the entire car seems to pulsate a little, the speed of the pulsation is in relation to the speed of the car. I got the car up to about 100 or 110 mph today, and when I braked down to about 40 (not ABS panic braking, mind you, but harder than most braking) it was accompanied by a LOUD noise that went along with the pulsation, and the pulsation was very strong. The noise sounded like a low, but loud, hum that would phase out and in very quickly as the pulses occured. Again, the speed of the pulsation/noise was in direct relation to the speed of the car, but the noise didn't decrease any in pitch as I slowed. The noise happened once more when I sped up to 90 mph and braked again. It seems odd because the noise didn't (but the pulsation did, though not as strongly) happen when braking from, say, 70 mph, only about 85+. When braking from 85+ the noise wouldn't go away for as long as I stayed on the brakes (even down past 40 mph), but wouldn't happen if braking from less than 80 or 85. What could it be? ;) Let me know if you need clarification.

That's the same procedure as I found on the web where the guy stated it wouldn't work with a 95. But..who knows? Maybe they had a bad remote.

http://www.automotivehelper.com/topic65722.htm

←

google. search google.

Programming replacement keys - 1990 to 1996 LS400 only.

1.Driver's door open and unlocked, all other doors closed and locked.

2.Insert YOUR key in ignition, DO NOT TURN, remove key.

3.Using the lock/unlock button ON THE DRIVERS DOOR, slowly press lock and unlock 5 times (count the lock 5 times and unlock 5 times).

4.Shut door.

5.Open door.

6.Using the lock/unlock button ON THE DRIVERS DOOR, slowly press lock and unlock 5 times (count the lock 5 times and unlock 5 times).

7.With the door open insert your key into the ignition, turn to on position (DON'T START), wait 5 seconds. Turn off and remove key.

8.Locks should cycle once (Car will lock and then unlock once). If they don't cycle or they cycle more than once, do steps 1-7 over.

9.Now using the remote, push lock button, hold for one second, release. The locks should cycle once. If not, start over and go slower.

10.Close the door. Open the door. Press the lock button on the remote. The locks should cycle. Close the door. Press the lock button on the remote, the doors should lock. Press again and the doors should unlock.

that procedure shouldn't work on the 97's...

'97 Lexus LS400 only

This system is based on the Texas Instruments fixed code transponder. The onboard computer cannot be programmed without a working pre-programmed transponder key. Duplicate keys can be programmed into the system as long as there is at least one working pre-programmed key available. The system can accept a maximum of 6 different keys

Because the coding of the keys is proprietary and is protected by copyright law, cloning is not possible at this time for this system. Until Texas Instruments agrees to license this technology, the only way to program duplicate keys will be by the process outlined below.

Key blanks: Ilco / Silca TOY40BT4

Replacement key blanks can be ordered through any Lexus dealer.

After a similar post on interference and non interference engines..I did a ton of searching but could find little to back up whether the engine were or were not. I found a site that sold timing belts and their chart shows DOHC Lexus is an interference engine. But I find nowhere else to back that up.

I've been through all the Lexus manuals and the changes in the 95's. The valve timing events are longer and the compression higher on the 95 engines. If the 94's back were non interference...then it is quite possible the 95's were interference. But I have no solid data to back that up. And nothing solid to say the 95 back were non interference.

So I would treat them as interference as a safety precaution. But really..who wants to gamble in this area of timing belt replacement? If the motor were to break a timing belt and not damage the engine (non interference)...Murphy's law would make sure it didn't happen where Lexus parts are conveniently available and

then you get to replace it anyway. Perhaps beside the road. Perhaps after waiting 2 days in a motel room for someone else to do it.

Just not an area to gamble in my opinion. Just my 2 cents.

←

still, making a 10:1 compression 250 hp V8 that is non interference is pretty crazy.

i broke the OEM one on my contour at 190,000 miles, i was doing 90 MPH at the time.  it just snapped, the motor started sputtering, so i pushed the clutch in and it died.  i pulled off to the shoulder and tried to restart, it wouldnt.  i figured it ws the timingbelt, got in the trunk and got out my tool kit, popped the hood and pulled the cover off, sure enough. ;)

←

iterference or no?

Spoiler? Body kit? Euro-spec fog lights? CAI? non-functional hood scoop?? :P

Thanks ec437!!

I hope to have time this weekend to mess with it.  I will let you know how it turns out.

←

yeah, once you get the back panel off, that "plastic bar" (actually a metal bar with a plastic tube thing over it) is at the very bottom of the back section of the seat.You'll be able to see it when you get the back off, but I had to unclip some of the leather and other material and press the foam rubber cushion back to be able to get my vicegrips in there to move it. Be sure you adjust the left side of the seat to match the right side BEFORE you slide the bar over. This is also when you would want to apply glue, I think you'll see where you have to do that; I don't think glue is really necessary, but would probably be a good idea if you adjust your seat alot. When you do slide the bar over, make sure you slide it in good and hard. I used a hammer to whack the handle of my vicegrips. Good luck, and I'd better get back to my spanish report on el Generalife de la Alhambra de Granada <_<

ec437-I have the same problem with my driver's seat.  I haven't taken the time yet to take the seat out and look at it, though.  What is the "little turning bar thing" you described earlier?  It the seat very hard to take apart to get to this or is it easily assesible once the seat is out?

←

http://www.cureline.net/lex/howtos/info_seats.htm

Sorry, I didn't take any pics while I was doing it, just take the seat apart and press the buttons and you'll see what the problem is.

I've seen alot of leaks coming from the gaskets around the taillights. Usually after bodywork has been done.

←

in my bmw new taillight gaskets solved the problem.

Get yourself a flashlight and someone you really trust. Lock yourself in the trunk and have the trusted person run a hose over the trunk area. Use the flashlight to check around the inside for where the water is coming in.

John

←

<_<

Hi all, it has been raining in Los Angeles and yesterday when I looked in the trunk I noticed the mat in the trunk was wet. I felt around in the trunk to try to feel where the water was leaking in from. No luck, all seemed dry on the walls. I cleaned the rubber seal or gasket (don't no what it's called) that goes between the trunk and rear chassis. Made sure it was free of leaves and other debris.  This morning it was wet again. Anyone have any tips or tricks to trying to figure out where the leak is coming from? Any Ideas would be appreciated? As I write this, I’m thinking about how my antenna doesn’t go down and is bent a little. Could it leak through the antenna?  I’m worried about the rust.

Thanks in Advance

Tote

←

line the inside of your trunk overnight with paper towels, and see where the leak is.

What kind of maintinance procedures are you talking about(when you say they are high maintinance cars)?

Oil/filter every 3,000 miles (use the right viscosity!!!)

brake/clutch fluid anually

coolant bianually

new pads every 30,000 miles

Every 4 years or 50,000 miles:

1. Timing belt and tensioner

2. Water pump and gasket

3. Thermostat

4. All drive belts

5. All water hoses

6. All vacuum hoses

7. All rubber gas hoses

8. Fuel filter

9. O2 sensor

10. Valve cover gasket/with 4 rubber dams

11. Adjust valves and new plugs (valves adjusted from every 15,000 to 20,000 miles with new plugs and gasket and rubber dams)

12. Dist. cap and rotor

13. air filter

14. Change tranny and differential oil (an automatic may be need to be serviced more)

Other misc. things that should be checked ocasionally:

tires (tire pressures too)

fan clutch

suspension

exhaust system

guibo (flex disk in the driveshaft)

A/C charge

fuel pump

wheel bearings

and many, many other things that would take too long to list here. Here is the official e30 maintenance table if you want to look at it.

http://www.bmwe30.net/cgi-bin/datacgi/data...0006&Section=14

If you neglected almost any of these things, the car would still be reliable, but not to the degree that it would be if properly mantained.