silverbullitt

Try replacing your crank & cam sensor. Hope & pray your timing belt didn't break 

I replaced everything suspension component and my car still creaked. I found my problem. Inspecting my car & noticed my calipers move easily by hand. The 2 17mm caliper bracket bolts were backing out from the brake pressure from the caliper. Slider pins that allow the caliper to move freely had seized. Took the bolts out & put lock washers on it, greased my slider pins & the noise went away. 

Check your fan & see if its coming on. 

I have 4 brand new, never been mounted tires for sale. The size is 245/40/18. Have 0 miles on them. 2 tires are too of the line serenity & 2 are potenza re970a/s. $550 firm.

You going have to pull the bumper off in order to get to the ballast. The ballast is attached underneath the headlight housing. 4 8mm screws holding it in place.

Two things to check or just simply replace: cam positioning sensor & your crank sensor. Cam sensor located on the top by the cam pulley & the crank sensor should be by the crank pulley.

What I've done was purchased that key like some of the German vehicles have. Got it off ebay. When you push the button the key flips out of the key shell. Had it cut & put my transponder chip inside. Think I paid $20 for the key & a guy cut the key for $20. That was over a yr ago & with no problems.

It's a 6" sub. Mine blew twice & I'm not replacing with another. I got a 10" in an enclosed box & an amp that I'm going to hook up. Need more bottom end bass

Correction, the hid kit is called morimoto elite. Those are H1 size bulbs, 4300k temperature bulbs I'm using. I'm leaning towards 5000k bulbs for more white with a hint of blue in it. Kit cost $150 & the tsx-r lens $50.

I have bump it by accident myself. What I do after is push the button again & put the truck in reverse & back up a few feet then the light will go out & the truck will go back to normal drive mode.

& more pics

Here's a sample of my output results

Here's a sample of my output results

From 98 to 05 the body style stayed the same. Just a few added options every yr. look online or local salvage yards. GS300/400 are the same far as the body shape. It's just the engines are different. GS300 are inline 6 cylinders & GS400 are V8's.

what's up dcfish. I have a 98 GS400 & when i changed my sway bar bushings. I just raised & supported the front end, it's like 4 bolts holding the sway bar bracket on each end. once you remove the bracket the bar will tilt. Then you can remove the bushing. when re-installing make sure you use silicone grease to lube the bushings back up. Because if you dont it will make creeking noise. Put the brackets on & tighten up. That's what i did when i replaced mines, step by step.

I have a GS400 & I had a similar problems. That part you are talking about is called a caster arm ( no. 2 control arm). I've replaced that & everything you mention above & it still clunked. I had to replace the struts, ( strut mounts clunk over bumps). Rack n pinion also went bad ( it clunked as well) & the noise went away.

I have some lower control arms with the daizen bushings installed already if your interested

We had a similar problem with a customer vehicle @ my job. Over heating & blowing cold air. & all we did was like I said blow out the heater core with the water hose or you can use compressed air. All this garbage came out. The I removed the thermostat & use a radiator flush kit. Let the system run for a while to loosen up all the deposits in the system. Disconnected the top hose from the radiator & started the car & let it run with the water running. Let run til everything is clear. Put back together & you should be find.

My 98 GS400 has 237k miles. Still looks good, no rust, no leaks, almost as quiet as a hybrid. One of the quietest idling V8 in the world & still runs strong like a car with 30k miles on it. Had the car 10yrs & only problem was the starter sticking & worn front end bushings. I drive everyday

Try disconnecting the 2 hoses to the heater core. Put a water hose on 1 end & try to push whatever is blocking inside the heater core. Blocked heater core will cause overheating & cold air blowing when you got the heat on.

Sounds like your booster is starting to go bad. Far as the hum that might come from the y pipe under the car. I have a 98 GS400

Also the car has 2 lower control arms on the car per side.

Your best bet is to just replace the whole arm. I personally took mine apart and installed high performance daizen bushings & you have to press out old bushings. Reason why I say replace, it's cheaper & less time consuming. Also I found out the later models 01 & up have beefier bushings & don't wear out as fast.

Replace your rack in pinion. Make sure all your lower control arm bushings are not worn. Worn bushings will have excessive front end play

Also, I own a 03 blizzard pearl lx470

I purchased the kit from the retrofitsource.com. Called morimoto mini & ts-r clear lens. I will post some pics. I will tel you this it's a big !Removed! difference. Razor sharp cut off line. Wide beam pattern. Could easily light up 5-6 lanes. Huge improvement when driving @ night.