tomb57

I recently bought a 2010 rx350 with the tow package.  I have installlled the hitch, and the flat 4 trailer wiring at the back factory plug.  I now have to install the trailer brake controller on the dash and wire it in.  Does anybody have any tips on attaching it to the dash, where to go through the  firewall, and any other tidbits.  Thanks ahead of time.  Oh, also, is there a  factory plug and wireing up by the dash, like at the back?

I have a 2000 RX300 that has a noise under the dash. It sounds like a CD changer trying to load CDs. I think I saw on a post that it was something to do with the AC servos, relays or whatever. does anybody have the info what it is , and how to fix it? Thanks.

I have a 2000 RX300 that has sometimes a low idle/vibration. It sounds like the noise an engine makes when you !Removed! the timimg. We had the timing belt replaced about 12,000 miles ago at about 105,000 miles, that also took care of a louder than normal "belt noise". Now the noise is back also. Can the noises by related, and do timing belts need readjusting? Mileage is down a littls (1-2 mpg) but then it is winter here in Wisconsin. Gut feeling, it's not like it used to be. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks for the quick response, that's what I needed to know. I went to Auto Zone and bought the Iridium IX no. 3764. I assume as long as it's Iridium I don't have to go to the next step up Iridium.

Thinking about changing plugs at 118,000 miles and found NGK IFR6A11 in it. No stores can find that plug in there listing. Does anybody know what the correct OE plug should be?

Thanks for your reply. I was hoping there was a part or two that I could take off that would make it easier. I may just skip putting in new plugs. It still runs fine and it "only" has 118,000 miles. Our mileage is down by about 2 mpg, but that could be the colder weather. So we'll see.

I have a 2000 RX300 with 120,000 miles on it. It has the original sparks plugs in it, and I'd like to put new ones in. What is the best way to do this, especially the ones in the back. Is there a trick to getting back there by taking something apart. Any help (tips) would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

Hi, I have a 2000 RX300 FWD and I am planning on replacing the rear struts. Most of the parts houses are quoting me on Monroe Reflex struts. Are these any good? I don't want to loose a decent ride, but I also pull trailers once in a while. Also, do I need to get an alignment in the rear after this? Oh also are KYB struts better or about the same. Thanks for any info.

I have a sensor of some type not connected to the engine. It is one wire (white w/red stripe), grey connector, and a mounting plate. I suspect it should be bolted to the upper motor mount next to the timing belt cover and the upper radiator hose casting. Can anyone confirm this, and what is it, and what does it do? They must of not remounted it when the timing belt was changed. Thanks for any help.

I'm still having problems and bad gas mileage. Here's the latest glue. If I reset the CEL and drive the truck for one continous trip 20-30 miles or whatever, and it gets good mileage, no CEL comes on. If you stop and turn it off and then a while later start and go, the CEL comes on after a couple miles, and the MPG starts goung down. What's happening? Also, yes I may be interested in the Oxygen sens or for sale.

Thanks for for the info on the A/F sensor. I did clear codes and when the CEL came on I pulled over and checked the code. This only took about 2 miles, then after another mile or so, the PO171 came up. Also I was watching the O2 values (don't know what to expect) but very little voltage movement. By the way I was using an OBD2 scanner. Would getting a new MAF be worth it for $54.? Could that clear the 1130 and 1150 codes?

I don't have the exact answer to your question, but I must say, when I get a CEL, I ALWAYS cancel it out and run the car and see what comes up when the CEL comes on again (if it does!) If you have a scanner or device to cancel the CEL, do it a 2nd or even a 3rd time and record what the codes were each time. IF you chase codes, you're often gonna be replacing a lot of parts that didn't need replacing. It has an electronic brain, not a human brain and many times will send you on a wild goose chase. Do what I suggested and if you don't own a scanner, you should buy one, it will pay for itself. A good possibility you didn't need the thermostat. By the way, though a lot of people call 'em Oxygen sensors, they're not, they're A/F ratio sensors. The only O2 sensor is behind the CC under the drivers seat.

I need some guidance on what to do next. I had a PO125 code (insufficent coolant temp for closed loop system) and I replaced the thermostat. No more PO125. I reset the code and now after only 2 miles, I have a P1130, P1150 and shortly thereafter a PO171. Do I replace the AF (02?) sensor next or replace the MAF sensor (I've tried cleaning it) I should mention that the gas mileage is way down, and the truck seems to be surging. Thanks for any help, you can give me before I have to pay the big bucks to get it fixed.

Thanks for the thoughts. I agree they all can't be accurate. I'll try and get to autozone as the CEL comes on.

Tom,

May I say one thing. In this day and age, when you can get a very usable code reader or scanner for $20. to $50., EVERYONE who even knows how to gas their own vehicle should have one. Even though some of the parts stores will do it for free, It still is worth it for the little cost, to own your own.

WHENEVER you have a flurry of codes like that, the only reasonable thing to do is record what came up, cancel them out and run it till the light comes on again and read what comes up as soon as the light comes on. You are much more likely to get a usable code that way. All you're doing is chasing your tail if you try to deal with all those codes. Do you seriously think that ALL those codes point to valid problems? Probably better chance of winning the lottery. I have read of as many as 8 codes at one time when a CEL is lit. Absolutely no chance of all those being valid, a small chance that NONE of them are actually the problem. A computer has an electronic brain, and although we couldn't fix a lot of the problems without 'em, the brain IS electronic, and sometimes I think, not very big or smart.

Here is a good Lexus specific site to decipher the codes. There's a LOT of GOOD info on that site, just wander. http://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/lexus/

Thanks for the thoughts. I agree that all those codes are not accurate. I'll reset them and try a get to autozone when the CEL comes back on.

I have a 2000 RX300 with the check engine light on with the following codes: PO171, PO136, P1150, P1130, P1153. I've tried cleaning the MAF (doesn't seem to help, but did 2 years ago) I've looked for vacuum leaks, but didn't find anything. The guy at O'Rielys said O2 sensor because it had all those codes. But I don't know what to think. I hate to just start throwing money at it, but am tempted to try a new MAF first. Any good and accurate advise?

Hi, I have a 2000 RX300 with 108,000 miles and I think it needs new struts in the rear. Is this a hard job to do, and does a lot of the interior in the back need to be disassembled to get at the top mount? Also, what make strut cartridge does everybody use. Has anybody used KYB, and are they the original equipment maker for Lexus? I don't want a harsh ride, so I'd like to stick with OE, but not Lexus prices. Any input, would be greatly appreciated.

Hi, I have a 2000 RX300 with 108,000 miles and the original spark plugs. The manual says to change plugs at 120,000 miles or 96 months. My questions are: even though I'm over 96 months but not up to the 120,000 miles, is it time to change them? If I wait longer will it be impossible to get them out? Has anyone had this problem? Also, what's the easiest way to get the back plugs out. It looks like there is no room to get hands and tools back there. Any help/tips would be greatly appeciated. Thanks.

Hi, I have a 2000 Rx300 that has a battery that discharges slightly while sitting. I checked the current draw with nothing on, and the engine off. I got about 60 ma. Does anybody know if this is about right?

I would say that should be completely normal. You have a draw for keep alive memory and 60 ma. is only 6/100ths of an amp. That is nothing. I would say the battery must be weak. Unless there is something that intermittently draws and wasn't drawing when you tested, the 60 ma. couldn't possibly be the problem.

Thanks for the reply. I would agree that the 5 year old battery is probably getting weak. But I charged it fully and tested it and it was good. But then after vehicle sat for a couple of days, the voltage was down to 12.1 volts. That's when I checked the current draw. Looks like I"ll look for a new battery.

Hi, I have a 2000 Rx300 that has a battery that discharges slightly while sitting. I checked the current draw with nothing on, and the engine off. I got about 60 ma. Does anybody know if this is about right?

I would say that should be completely normal. You have a draw for keep alive memory and 60 ma. is only 6/100ths of an amp. That is nothing. I would say the battery must be weak. Unless there is something that intermittently draws and wasn't drawing when you tested, the 60 ma. couldn't possibly be the problem.

Hi, I have a 2000 Rx300 that has a battery that discharges slightly while sitting. I checked the current draw with nothing on, and the engine off. I got about 60 ma. Does anybody know if this is about right?

I would say that should be completely normal. You have a draw for keep alive memory and 60 ma. is only 6/100ths of an amp. That is nothing. I would say the battery must be weak. Unless there is something that intermittently draws and wasn't drawing when you tested, the 60 ma. couldn't possibly be the problem.

Hi, I have a 2000 Rx300 that has a battery that discharges slightly while sitting. I checked the current draw with nothing on, and the engine off. I got about 60 ma. Does anybody know if this is about right?

Thanks for all the info. on the gel problem. I had to know, so I pulled the front valve cover off to inspect. To my suprise it was super clean. My RX has 72,000 miles and I pull a trailer. Even though I've only had it for 2500 miles, I think I'll change oil at 3000 miles. Thanks again for the info.

I understand some Rx300's had an engine gel problem. I've only had our 2000 RX300 for 2 months and I'm wondering how I can check to see if there's a gel problem now or upcoming. Thanks for any help.

Thanks all for the quick reply. I'll check the actuator with that wiring info, before I buy a new one.