Lexus79

In the past when this problem occurred, I removed the meter, but didn't open it. I thought maybe it would have been a connection problem, so I removed it and reinstalled it. I even tapped on it lightly. I'm going to be very happy when I ever figure this out. For the last month or so, I haven't been working on the issue. Maybe something or someone will shed some light soon....

Well, I finally installed a brand new fuel sending unit and the fuel indicator still reads improper. I disconnected the connector and of course when I switch the key on, the needle is reading close to empty (approximate mileage indicator shows low fuel). I guess next I will focus towards the cluster........

Good info, but I need instructions for a '98 LS400 for removal of the instrument cluster...

Thanks for the info. I just posted about your topic...

I'm thinking it's the cluster too because the temp gauge needle is higher than normal, RPM gauge sticks sometimes for minutes, the speedometer needle sticks sometimes for minutes, as well as the crazy fuel gauge needle not accurately measuring the fuel inside the tank. Any info on how to remove and replace the cluster, get a new one, etc.???

Less than a year old....

All the needles are acting up on the instrument panel. The temperature is reading above normal ops temp, the speedometer sticks at zero until I drive for a while as well as the tachometer needle. It sticks at zero for a few seconds or so then it jumps up. Same problem exists with the fuel needle gauge as before. When the tank is empty, the needle is a little below half-tank. I'm thinking it's the instrument panel. Any inputs and if it's the panel, anyone have instructions on how to remove it?

The sender is less than $60 from http://lexus.sewellparts.com with a car forum discount. Is it harder to replace than it looks? Or I guess you could pretend that it's a 1950's VW Beetle that didn't come with a fuel gauge and use a stick to check fuel level.

As it appears, it's not hard to replace, but once I begin the maintenance, I'll see.

Replacing the sending unit isn't hard at all. You just have to disconnect two electrical wires and remove 6 bolts and washers. I've replaced the sending unit, but the problem still exists. I purchased a used fuel sending unit and the person I bought it from said it was operational. I either try more troubleshooting with another part or purchase a new fuel sending unit. Any suggestions?????

The sender is less than $60 from http://lexus.sewellparts.com with a car forum discount. Is it harder to replace than it looks? Or I guess you could pretend that it's a 1950's VW Beetle that didn't come with a fuel gauge and use a stick to check fuel level.

As it appears, it's not hard to replace, but once I begin the maintenance, I'll see.

Normally if you take the sender wire off the sender unit the fuel guage should read empty and f you earth/ground the wire it should read full.If this happens it would suggest the sender unit in the tank is faulty.If the guage still acts up it would be more likely to be the guage/instrument pod causing the problem

Here's what I did a few minutes ago. I disconnected the sender unit wire that goes to the fuel indicator, then I started my car. It indicated like it should since I don't have much gas in it and the refuel soon light came on. When I reconnected the wire it still indicated as such, but when I turned the car off and restarted the car, the indicator went back to half tank reading....

Normally if you take the sender wire off the sender unit the fuel guage should read empty and f you earth/ground the wire it should read full.If this happens it would suggest the sender unit in the tank is faulty.If the guage still acts up it would be more likely to be the guage/instrument pod causing the problem

I took the green wire off and I think that goes to the pump perhaps? I say this because the car was about to cut off and I reconnected it. I'm assuming the other wire goes to the sender unit for proper indication.

If the sender does need replacing, the attached TSIB provides information about its location and how to get to it.

Thanks for the info. The trunk slamming and the knocking on the fuel tank didn't fix the problem. I will look into the sender unit. I am having various issues all at the same time with this car. I still love it, but working on each problem....

If this happened after you filled up with gas it may be that the sender unit float has stuck and has not fallen as the level in the tank drops,you could opening the trunk and giving the tank a thump to see if this will make the sender float drop down again.

I will try that. When my tank is empty, the fuel indicator is at the half tank mark. Like I said, I'll try that and see what happens....

I have a 98 LS400 with approx 198K miles. About a month ago, I filled my car up with gas and the needle went beyond the full mark that it never been before. I thought that was strange, so after driving 130 miles, the fuel indicator still indicated FULL. That's when I figured I had an issue. I still have the issue. I monitor my fuel by approx. miles on the instrument panel. Anyone have ideas on how to fix this problem??

check the codes, also did you clean BOTH oil control valves? (codes p1349/59) you also need to clean the chambers the valves go in. mine was very dirty, took several times to get it clean. AND you might also have a faulty ocv sensor, mine never got to the point of running/idling bad, just the lights were on. good luck, keep us posted.

ran a search and found this: I asked a question about the same lights back in Oct. I reset the code and the lights came right back. Cleaned the Oil Control Valve,Drove for 100 miles and on, thought the problem went away, reported as such on this Forum, and then the lights came right back. A neighbor mechanics helped up to this position. He thought the next thing is to change the Throttle Position Sensor (two of them at $300/each). I decided to send the car to a garage. The diagnosis was, much to my surprise, the Variable Valve Timing Solenoid (15330 0F010 $117 parts). It's related to the CAM according to the shop. Just got the car back before dark today. Drove around and everything is fine so far. The orgiinal codes were 1354 and 1633 for me.

maybe this will help...

I did clean both oil control valves and the chamber. I was thinking next maybe the VVT solenoid or something relating to the CAM position. Yesterday, I disconnected the ECU and the VSC units and all the lights went out. Today, the check engine light came back on. The VSC light remains out at this time. What issues were you having with your car???

VSC shuts off when a myriad of problems arise - most having nothing to do with VSC. What issues did the codes indicate?

True, I understand that. By the way, I meant speedometer instead of odometer when I mentioned while driving the "odometer" will shoot up. Anyway, I get multiple misfire, fuel is too lean (something to that nature) and I forgot the rest. It's been a while since I had it checked. I've just been driving around with the current condition.

All, I have several issues. The first issue came with my Check Engine Light coming on and never could find the problem. Next my VSC light came on and Rough Idling when I stop. I've researched and many have changed their oil control valves on their car and it fixed the problem. Well I cleaned mine, and the problem still exists. Also, my VSC doesn't work and at times, my speedometer won't work nor will my RPM gauge. Once I start driving it for about a minute or so, the needles on my speedometer and RPM gauge will shoot up. When I had the codes ran on my car, many codes came up especially misfire. I have a 98 LS400 with 198K miles on it. I'm currently at the point where I disconnected my ECU and my ABS/TRC, & VSC units. I have not purchased anything at the moment. Any help would be greatly appreciated before I begin start spending big bucks in troubleshooting....