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GS 430

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Posts posted by GS 430

  1. 2000 GS300 with 110,000 miles on it. The other day the right rear door power lock stopped working. It moves a little when the button on either front door is pressed, or when the remote is pressed, but won't lock or unlock without manually pushing the lock on the door. Also, when locking or unlocking the doors from the remote or the buttons on either of the front doors they make their usual sound, but then make another lock/unlock sound in all the doors about 1/2 to 3/4 second later, all on their own. Anyone experienced either of these issues before I start taking interior door panels off?

    The problem sounds like its caused by a weak door lock actuator (known to go bad). The extra locking sound is caused by the door lock system sensing a lock is not fully engaged to lock position. The extra bump attempts to lock the lazy actuator. This is the same sensing system that will keep locking the doors if they are forced open by a slim-jim. Lubricating the linkage and actuator may get it working again, if not, You may have to replace it.
  2. As far as I can tell, being a professional in the automotive field, I have never heard of or experienced any unusual electrical problems with any Toyota or Lexus product.

    Like any automobile, certain parts do and will wear out. The door lock actuators, unfortunately, do wear out with some regularity on this series. The radio screen, which is fairly easy to fix (search these forums) is the other thing that happens to be common. When the screen is replaced with the upgraded part, the problem should end permanently.

    All of the other items sound repairable by any reputable mechanic. Keep in mind that a car is a machine and will need service and care to remain reliable.

    i have a 99 gs300.im having intermittent problems with the windows and power locks.some days all works great.right now.just the drivers door front window works and no power locks.i got a new drivers master window switch so thats not the problem.i think its one wire thats intermittent.can you help me trouble shoot.i have a diagram? ill pay you for your time.

    Guy strat1953@aol.com 480-703-9586

    Check the wires inside the rubber connector boot between the drivers door and body (hinge area). Wires will often break internally from the repetative bending of opening and closing the door. (the drivers door is almost always the cause because it gets far more use than the rest of the doors). The break may not be obvious as the copper strands will sever inside the plastic coating making the wire appear fine. The fact that the problems are intermittent is a greater indication. Try operating the windows and locks while swinging the door slowly open and closed (or push and pull on the rubber boot) to see if the problem comes and goes with door movement. I've experienced this problem with my 1993 Camry in the past. I repaired it about 6 years ago, completely fine until a few months ago. I need to repair it again. Good luck!
  3. When the A/C compressor is turned on, it adds extra load to the engine. The electronic throttle receives a signal that the load at idle has increased. The ECM adds a little throttle to the engine to compensate for the load. This increases engine speed slightly when the A/C cycles on. When the A/C cycles off, the throttle is decreased slightly to return the engine to no-load idle speed (A/C off). When the A/C is on and is running normally......and this is the same for any vehicle with A/C......the A/C compressor cycles on and off to maintain the set temperature inside the car. If you let any vehicle idle with A/C on you will hear the A/C clutch engage (clicking sound), immediately followed by an increase in idle speed, and another quieter click, immediately followed by a slight decrease in idle speed. This process repeats with the A/C on. If the engine speed don't increase when needed to run the compressor, and the engine stays at its no-load idle speed, it will slow down under the strain, run rough, near stalling (maybe even stall) and the alternator will not be turning fast enough to excite and produce a charging current. This is why the battery dies in a hurry. The cause of this problem is simple on paper, but it may be tricky to find the exact cause of the problem. (ECM, A/C amplifier, poor electrical connection, Throttle control valve or IAC valve for vehicles not equipped with "Drive-by-wire"). Have a scan performed by your Lexus dealer. It will be much faster and probably cheaper in the long run, rather than replacing alternators, batteries and chasing "Might Be's". Good Luck! P.S. When an alternator runs at a stalled/excited stage, caused by slow speed and high load, it will burn out and/or suffer damage.

  4. New here - just found this forum. Thank you guys for tones of useful info.

    I have ES 330 2005. Just wanted to sat that I do not have any transmission hesitation problem with it. Not sure why, but I do not.

    Cheers.

    Stokka.

    I wish I could say the same. We just picked up a used 330 with less than 15k miles on it and it certainly has this issue. I'm just glad to learn that I'm not losing my mind.

    I am going to look into the reflash. If that does not help I may have to sell the car. This issue is driving me crazy.

    Interestingly, I just sold my 2006 IS250 that had an awful 6 speed standard in it (terrible clutch, poor gating, and very noisy). Very disappointing for a $45k car (in Canada).

    Hey there, I bought a 2006 ES 330 in march of 2009. It also has a weird shift. It will give a kick or lurch if you are driving slow and let off on the pedal a little and push it again. (like when driving on a side street, parking lot or slow moving traffic) Of course it has the latest shift program, but it is not perfect. It is a shame that such a fine automobile has such an ugly glitch. I have since accepted its quirk, and to be honest, it is the ONLY one issue I have with this car. It is close to perfect........Let the pursuit continue!

  5. Thanks for the follow up!

    I am glad to hear some honest feedback from someone who knows what they are talking about. When you said it would drive "thirsty" I never really realized it but now it makes a lot of sense. I always thought b/c it was a big V8 that was the cause for the poor fuel economy. With that being said- it is definitely more thirsty than it should be- so good call on that!

    I took it today and had the transmission fluid drained and refilled hoping that the light would go off and things would be back to normal but no such luck. it looks like I am going to have to get someone in there to actually check the solenoids or whatever else may be causing this problem. It's all good- i wasn't sure if the previous owner ever changed the tranny fluid anyways- so better safe than sorry.

    Do you suggest i take it to a tranny expert or take it to a good shop to get this sovled in the least painful way possible?

    Thanks agian for your help!

    It is a good idea to have the code cleared and wait to see if it comes back. CEL's don't always clear themselves after the problem is fixed. If the fluid change fixed it then the code shouldn't come back. If the code returns then you will know for sure that you have to take it a step further. Good luck!

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