svarog

I have as many miles as you.

I don't want to use synthetic because from what I read: synthethic is thinner and so will drip out lots more, and could leak from places that regular oil doesn't leak out from.

I also always get the automatic transmission fluid done at dealership (but toyota one not lexus), the transmission is supposed to be pretty picky about what fluid it wants!

The coolant doesn't matter! Get it anywhere!

Hello I ripped off some of the plastic off my dash on accident

Here is a picture

Does anyone have any experience fixing it?

My main concern is getting the right color paint and paint that isn't going to get destroyed in the sun or just change shade, because I live in florida.

I do not want to buy an entire new dash that will be really expensive!!

Thanks for any help.

Sffans maybe you have different problem but this happened to a friend of mine whose car sat for a while.

The gasoline was really bad and the only way to get it to accept new gas was starting it and pressing gas, it would sputter. After like 10 minutes it would sputter more and you could see it was getting the new gas.

Eventually it started up!! Try that

Start it up and hold the gas. Also can try turning it on, then off, then on then off. That is supposed to make the fuel pump pump gas.

Hope it helps.

well once you plug the maf back in, it should work

i had that happen to me when my iacv valve was clogged.

Also can reproduce it by unplugging the mass air flow sensor thing.

Hello I have been searching about brake pads on this forum.

And toysrme's evangelism about HAWK pads made me decide on them.

Here is what I found on tirerack.

http://www.tirerack.com/brakes/brakes.jsp?...&perfCode=P

My question is, are these good or not the same as Hawk HPS track pads?

also, it says (axle set) so that means there is two brake pads?

Are the rear ones the same and I should get 2 of those?

Thanks in advance!

thanks all for help!!

in case anyone ever searches and has same problem is me

the answer, cam seals are leaking!

Infrared sounds cool.

I managed to figure out its not rear valve cover by sticking my hand there, it was pretty dry.

If it is one of the main seals how much is it to fix and where should I do it?

Would toyota dealership do it? it is cheaper then lexus

I would feel scared bringing it in to some shady small shop

Hello I have just got an oil leak. (1995 es300)

Whenever I drive the oil light goes on for 10 minutes, then off for 5 then back on for 10, and the car leaves pretty big puddles in my driveway.

I can not find out where it is coming from at all and there are 3 different puddles all towards middle and back of engine. So I think it is bouncing off different things.

I assume it is the rear valve cover gasket because that is what everyone says is most likely to happen.

If it is the gasket I can fix that myself, if not I'll have to take it to a shop so my question is, is there a trick to figuring out if its the gasket without taking off the upper intake manifold and everything?

Folgot to write what fixed it for me.

I just replaced battery and it worked great.

Check that your terminals aren't corroded.

Same problem with me. It usually only takes a few minutes instead of 10.

Pretty scary.

All I know its it is not the transmission fluid. Had mine flushed and new put in, and same problem.

Thanks, I am scared, but will try with carb cleaner tomorrow!

Hello I was changing my spark plugs.

Took of upper intake manifold to get to rear ones. Replaced plugs with NGK.

Everything ran great for a day.

Then I had p0170 and P0305, fuel trim malfunction and cylinder 5 misfire. Car would drive great but in park and idle it would shake felt like vacuum leak.

Then it would do a bunch of random misfires, P1300.

Now I put in new pcv valve and some new vacuum hoses and the only code I get is p0170.

Now in just D idle car idles at 700 rpm and feels great, in Park it idles at 700 and goes whoom whoom.

So what is causing my p0170? I checked hoses 100 times, intake is good, I had same error code few years ago, and fixed it by replacing cracked intake.

Is it vacuum leak that I can't find? if so, is there some simple way to figure it out, without some smoke blowing devices or infrasound or something similar which I googled.

Thanks in advance!! I want car to have no Check engine Light before I do more stuff

Thanks!

Hello, recently I got an error code indicating my shifter solenoid was malfunctioning. O/D was flashing on and off.

I cleared code, it came back, reset EFI and it hasn't again, but I am sure it will soon if I drive over 50 miles straight.

If i searched right, to replace the solenoid I just drop the transmission pan, take out old one put new one in right?

Are there any places online to buy one? Advance autoparts shows up a few but they are $250 and weird and not stock. Newlexusparts.com didn't have it.

Is this part maybe like oxygen sensor and is universal?

Thanks in advance!

Hello I have a 1995 es300.

Lately in the mornings when I start the car and go into drive and press the gas, it feels like transmission doesn't slip into gear.

Engine just revvs up, after about 30 seconds or sometimes longer I feel a bump, car shakes and gets into gear and goes fine. Rest of the day it works great.

I went to toyota dealership and had a atf flush and they put new synthetic fluid in there. Still same problem though.

It is because it got colder? I live in florida so its not too much colder.

What could be wrong, and what if it happens one day and I can't get into gear at all, what should I do? Some easy fix around, so I can get to work at least.

Thanks!

i've tried that but i can't, thats why i asked here :/

its 90910-23006 as far as i can see some of the numbers are rubbed off

Thanks a lot toysrme, appreciate it a lot!!

On the newlexusparts where should I look for it?

Its not under steering

http://www.trademotion.com/partlocator/ind...amp;catalogid=1

Hello, I was trying to do my spark plugs and tried taking this hose so it gets out of my way, and it broke.

No point in explaining, that just wastes time.

Here are pictures

This is the hose:

here is the part that broke which it goes into, I want to know what part this is

what happened is te little plastic hose sticking out of it to connect the hose too broke off, right now i cut a pen and stuck that in there and taped it, but i wouldn't feel good leaving it like that.

So how much is that part about? And what is it for?

Thanks in advance!!

I have same problem, pressing eject won't do anything either. Cassette plays for few seconds then stops and goes to cd or am/fm.

Please keep updated if you fix it somehow

Nice looking car!! Though weird without moonroof.

For your headunit do you have custom plate for it or did you buy one? or is windom just different then es300?

I want to change mine too, headunit and amp and speakers but have no clue how to start.

I replaced mine !! It was easy thanks guys for help. I think liquid wrench is what made it possible.

Nothing got stripped or anything, I was very relieved. Was going in expecting horrible stuff. Only took 20 minutes, and I put howto in the workshop tutorials thread!!

I did this today it was my first time, so here is my howto.

The biggest problem I had was figuring out which one bank 1 sensor 1 is. Because there are a few oxygen sensor. So here it is, in red. It is on top of exhaust manifold in the back of engine by firewall.

This would of helped me a lot, a representation of where it is.

For the tools just need a regular wrench and an oxygen sensor socket it looks like this

I got it at pep boys for $13.99. But really you can just cut the wire on the old o2 sensor and use a regular socket, I didn't want to do that though.

Also by suggestion from here I got liquid wrench and sprayed it all over the o2 sensor and waited 30 minutes. I got it at home depot, there were few different kinds, I went with "Penetrating Oil" it is in yellow aerosol can. Costs about $2.99

How to take it out:

Some people said its easier from bottom but on bottom it looks like there are too many things in the way.

So I stood on driver's side and stuck my hand down there, easy to go underneath all the hoses, and there is enough room!

Then get good grip on the o2 sensor and pull on the wrench, pull towards you standing at driver's side. Mine wasn't as hard as I expected it to be and did not strip anything, when it let go I banged my hand but I didn't care I was happy.

After this it gets easy, disconnect the o2 sensor cord, just push on the tab and pull it.

Here is old o2 sensor, it looks gross, makes me want to change all other ones.

Then tighten new o2 sensor in, I got mine from advance auto parts and it was $160.

It already had antiseize stuff on it, but if yours doesn't put some on.

Then just click the cord in and thats it!!

I went to autozone and they reset my check engine light and it hasn't come back, I did everything right, I am pretty sure that is bank 1 sensor 1, it said so in the FSM!!

It only took about 20 minutes to do, I am sure at mechanic they would charge at least an hour because I think this is the hardest sensor to do. Can see me being happy that car starts up:

http://img303.imageshack.us/img303/5527/img0011wh4.jpg

Couldn't of done this without lexusownersclub.com

yea have been trying that, it won't go.

I am going to try steviej's advice about liquid wrench tomorrow and maybe get a breaker bar.

I am going to take pictures !! and post them (if i am sucessful), so as to help out anyone in future.

Thanks for help.

thanks !!

i am now scared to do it :[

did buy the socket today, is rethreading really hard?