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TMaxxTim
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Posts posted by TMaxxTim
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black leather.....damn you
i bet you'll love it when you look at it tomorrow ;) i love mine!
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sorry but what is the HU
HU = head unit = headunit
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I ran a wire around the side of the door, through the fender and then there's a hose looking thing that has all the wires from the door going inside the car, you can squeeze the wire through that. I did it and it doesn't bother me to see that, but its REALLY easy to do!
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I know you can't disconnect the battery and keep it running. I've had loose battery cables while I'm driving and the whole car dies. You can run on a weak battery though.
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That engine, with that many miles is way overpriced. The 8cyl 4.0l engines go on eBay for about $200-$400 depeinding on miles, most are about 100k to 125k in that price range. Honestly $1500 is rediculus. If you didn't know where to start I can understand but you'll need to do some major adjusting before anything is sold.
For the parts you have listed it comes out to $5325, you could find a complete Working! LS for that much!! (plus all the parts you didn't list)
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Great questions, I'd love to hear somebody's input who's fixed this as I have the EXACT problems, I just haven't gotten around to asking it!
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Yeah well I knew I needed those, because of steering jerking to one side or another when I hit a bump. But will that solve the noise? I might as well get new springs, and lower it an inch.
Jeez, mine's doing the exact same thing. I really didn't think anything about it lol. Where'd you order the control arm bushings. Are they something that somebody mechanically inclined can install or do you need special tools?
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I have 2 12's Polk MOMO in mine. 1000w amp powering them. If I crank it I do get rattle throughout the car but its too much bass for my ears to take anyways. I just adjusted the amp's settings so I can really control the bass off of my stock headunit and it works great. And outside the car I don't get really any rattle unless I crank it. I first had them in there and it rattled a lot so I tightened the spare tire mount and i took out the tray and all the loose pieces in the spare tire holder and it helped out a lot. I'd buy some dynomat too but I don't have enough money to do that. I'll let you see mine sometime, it works great but its not the prettiest thing in the world. 2 $35 wal-mart sub boxes lol
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There is no "Sport" edition from what I know, they are all the same. Where did you get "sport" from?
I've found when looking at these cars whether it has 100k or 200k on it, if the inisde is in good contition they will gof or the same price. Personally, for 12k I'd try to find a newer model with more miles since these things go forever, but if you want low miles that looks like a good candidate.
BTW V8's should not be that expsensive, and I'd try to find one of those if I'm not getting a 5spd 300
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The ES 300 DOES NOT require premium fuel. These engines require it in part because the compression rate is higher than in those engines resulting in higher performance.
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I can never really tell if mine are working until about 15 or 20 min after they are one, then my butt starts to get a bit toasty. But they are hard to tell if they're on. Is it really common for these to break?
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I woulnd't say the LS is necissarily better than the SC's but they're 2 totally different cars. It depends on what you need in a car. The SC's are fast though.
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I got real lucky when I found mine. If I was going to end up getting an automatic though, go 400.
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Yea, get that bumper fixed before you do anything else. Get some new trunk struts too. Change the fluids, and get the GB over at club lexus on the new dash needles for $150 and backlights from lextech.
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Okay if the battery light comes on then the alternator isn't charging the battery like it should or the battery isn't holding a charge. Take it to auto-zone and they will test either one for free for you.
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I'd check your battery connectors, sand them and clean them and make sure you have a really good connection. turns out on mine I needed a new bolt to clamp it onto the battery and it really helped out.
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Looks nice. I might go for an LED tail-light along with the 97 or in place of. Unfortunately I have a hard time spending money on car-parts I don't see/feel while I'm driving (ie, new taillights). If I had extra $$ (who does) I'd get them though.
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Would this cause a short in your whole electrical system in your car by chance? Whenever I hit a bump hard sometimes the radio will reset, the radar detector will reset and the ABS light will come on shortly. I think it may be a battery connection problem (adjusted that tonight but don't know if its a complete fix), but wondering if this could have had anything to do with it too?
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Why don't you just replace the batt. and connectors? It's not real exspensive and would be a more perm. fix to you problem.
The battery's expensive to fix!! I'll try some of the felt washers and make a visit to auto-zone today or tomorrow. Thx!
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Well I had to replace a bolt on my battery connectors today. My car died twice on me because the bolt was so corroded I couldn't tighten it so it would loosen and the car would lose all power :(
I sanded the battery connector down and the terminal down on the cable, any spray or goup or something I can put on it to prevent corrosion from happening again? It did it to me this morning and the acid was sizzling!!! AHH!
Luckily I got the new bolt tight enough to lift the car with so I won't be having the car die on my any more hopefully!
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Well, I got my pair at around $50 including shipping from an eBay shop.
They fit fine with some tweaking around the holding clips.
Mine is not strong enough to launch a can of beer.
When I open it from the inside, the trunk opens but sits there.
It is only when I physically lift the trunk, it will open freely and stay up.
Isn't this how the original used to work?
The launching effect would be somewhat dangerous. kkk
This is how mine works! It just clicks and stays there til I pull on it.
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I saw that too, anybody tried it or think it would work. It'd be cool if it did because its pretty cheap.
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Mine's N0008904 Guess my 92 isn't as old as yours!
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I'd be interested in the touch screen if anybody has done this!!
Driving
in General Maintenance
Posted
This is your LCA's, Lower Control Arms. Do some searches but the Toyota LCA's fit our cars and are $254 from Carson Toyota. There is a bushing replacement you can do also but its $100 plus whatever it costs for a shop to get the old bearings out and put them in with a hydraulic press. Your alignment/rims/tire pressure has nothing to do with this problem.
The top ones usually last but its the bottom bushings that go.
BTW, I know *BLEEP* is LOC, but over at clublexus.com there's a HUGE thread on this with LOTS of information, here's a link:
http://www.clublexus.com/forums/showthread.php?t=144793