pberku

A loose or defective fuel cap, can also cause this code to show up.

Hello All,

I got "check engine" light on yesterday, so I took my vehicle to the nearest Autozone (as suggested on this forum . I want to thank for this great advice. It also saved me a few $.) for free OBD II scan code using Actron CP9125 PocketScan Code Reader.

The scan code came out to be P0456 - Evaporative Emissions System - Small leak detected. One of the probable causes mentioned on the print-out was "loose/faulty gas tank Cap". So, I replaced with a new one and drove the car 20 miles or so.

Now.....I am getting conflicting advice (such as "go back to Autozone and ask them to reset" - they(Autozone) flatly refused to reset the code stating their official policy to "disconnect the battery for 1/2 hr to reset everything" etc.) as to what to do next. Hence, I decided to get help on this forum.

PLEASE HELP ME.

Thanks

Vic

If the problem was indeed the Gas Cap, and you changed it, than your Check Engine Light will turn OFF by itself over the next few days. If it stays ON after 2-4 days, than the Gas Cap change did not resolve the problem.

I believe that Auto Zone changed their Corporate policy in terms that they will still retrieve and tell you your Codes, but will not reset them.

At some point you may consider buying your own Code Reader. Its well worth it, and not that expensive. Especially when they go on Sale.

Make sure that you get one capable of erasing codes as well.

Phil

Hi,

I'm new to the LOC and I'm totaly excited to find this forum. I purchased a 02 ES300 three years ago and I have had no major problems...until now. I've just reached the 100K mark and found an oil leak. I'm told by NTB that it's rear main seal leak but I plan on taking to Lexus for a diagnosis. My question for today is, my trunk open button doesn't work in the car. I have to use the key button to open the trunk. Can someone tell me if this could possibly be an electrical issue?

There is a master Trunk lock button in the glove compartment. Make sure its not turned ON

Pressing the round temperature dial on the Climate Control Unit will toggle the display between inside and outside temperature.

OOOPS. I miss read the year of your car. Dexron III is indeed the right transmission fluid.

I pulled off leads one by on but could not find any difference in ay of them ... weird

BTW what OBD1 and OBD 2 mean ?

Is that some kind=d of reference standard for diagnostic equipment ??

I am going to restrict my comments to the transmission fluid that you replaced. Your car requires Toyota Type IV Transmission fluid. NOT DEXRON III.

It should state so in your User's Manual or on the Transmission Dipstick.

Thank you! Maaco said 1000 for new paint and to fix it but I wanted to fix it myself because it needs to be shaved down but it sounds ridiculous to pay 1000 to fix it on a car that has 106000 miles

Can you post some pictures of the damage?

The plastic panels on the doors!Does anyone know if you can buy them?

And if you can where?

Someone hit my car in a parking lot and I don't know who did it so I have to pay for it myself.

Oyster Pearl 97 ES300 all stock

Someone did the same thing to me, but my Body shop fixed it and re-painted it. Can't tell the difference. Are you sure its not repairable? Those things are relatively easy to fix.

Started getting a burnt oil smell that is fairly strong inside passenger compartment. Had oil change about 3 weeks ago and was informed that may have smell for bit due to how design is and getting oil spill etc. really noticing this after being on interstate for about 20 mins. Only had car for about 3d months and never noticed before. No visible oil leaks around manifold or on ground, any ideas????

Check the area around the Oil filter for any evidence of spilled oil, resulting from the oil change. If its dry than you need to look further. Could also be the valve cover(s). Make sure that you identify the cause, and that you have enough oil,

.

This is a non-interference engine, so even if the timing belt does go, the only additional cost (apart from the timing belt) would be the cost of a tow truck and some inconvenience.

Having said that, the Service Department is right. You should really change the belt based on the schedule specified in the owner's manual. (Milage or Time, whichever comes first)

eugenez,

Where you able to resolve this problem, if so could you tell us what you replaced and the part number. I'm having the exact code pop-up on my 2000 ES too. Back in April thats when i got the first P0440 error code. I've reseted the code and it didn't came back until 4 months later. I purchase a new OEM gas cap and tried to look for vacuum leaks, but did not find any. So until now i'm still having this MIL light on with the TRAC off. I did attempt to remove the charcoal canister, but i back out on removing it because i did not want to damage any vacuum hoses without no replacement. I've also check the functionality of the 3 VSV by connecting a 9V battery with alligator clips, all 3 VSV have a clicking noise so it should be good. I'm close to buying a new charcoal canister but still waiting around if anybody have a definitive fix for this problem. I've checked a local mechanic and ask them how much they would charge to troubleshoot my car and they told me it would cost $180, so with that price i rather put that money towards a new canister.

The fact that a VSV makes a clicking noise when you power it, does not necessarily mean that it is functioning correctly. Regardless of the clicking sound, the plunger inside could be corroded and stuck, or the VSV may leak and not hold vacuum, rendering it inoperative, and causing the CEL code to be set.

Check the brake switch, if that is has loosened up and moved cruise control will not engage. Since the cc was designed to dis-engage when the brakes are pressed, it will generate no error codes.

That is a good idea. If that was the case though my brake lights would be on all the time correct? So I can check that switch, but also rule out that being the problem if my brake lights aren't on all the time ya? What are the other switches that it could be? I think I read somewhere that there is another switch to check that the car is in "d" drive. Maybe I need to pull my shifter cover off and look to see that the sensor is realizing I am in drive. Although my instrument cluster does show I am in "d" and I would assume its the same switch so I don't know if that is it.

More ideas guys?

J. R.

Another possibility is the speed sensor that turns off the cruise control below a certin MPH. Although it may be working, perhaps the proper signal is not getting to the cruise control, as it thinks that the car is below the threshold speed. No CEL codes would be generated under this condition.

I don't have a wiring diagram so that's as far as I can go.

Just a thought though

Phil

hi clubbers simple question.my steering wheel on my 93 es300 is completely worn out and torn on the top due to the really hot weather this summer.it was wearing little by little but now its shot on top.now of course i can buy a steering wheel cover,but i really hate how cheap it looks and how bulky looking on the wheel they are.i really love the sleek look of the original steering wheel.now id love to find a really tight wrap type cover.but have never seen any.ive also seen a leather wrap on ebay that you can lace up yourself.does anyone have any suggestions or options they've used or seen.any and all suggestions are much appreciated thanx

I've used the leather wrap before on a Mercedes that I used to own. Although it felt and looked fine, it made the steering wheel diameter slightly larger, so it did not feel right.

If I were you. I would either buy a used steering wheel in good condition, or alternatively have a leather repair shop fix your steering wheel. Its not that hard, nor expensive, and if done right, should come out looking brand new.

Phil

I had recently purchased a used Lexus ES 300 (2002 model) from a dealer, may be 4 months ago.

Just 2 days ago, when I was trying to start the car, it didn't. I had to do around 4-5 time and then it finally started.

When I opened up the bonnet it had a Panasonic battery , not sure if its was the factory installed battery.

There was a sticker on it which says "maintenance free"

Questions:

1) What is this maintenance free mean ?

- It means that you don't have to (and can't) check the water (electrolytic) level in the battery.

2) Can I replace the battery with any other walmart battery for my Lexus ES 300 ? or does it have to be any high power panasonic battery only ?

- Yes you can, as long as it is the right one for your car. Costco would be your best bet though

3) Usually how long does batteries last ?

- On the average they last about 4-5 Years

4) Can I replace it myself or best way is to get to walmart or autozone and have it replaced there ?

- Yes you can, as long as you have the right tools to disconnect the Battery cables, and the Battery Hold-Down Bracket.

5) Are there any tools or devices which will tell us the life of the battery ?

- Such Equipment can typically tell you the present state of the battery, but not how much life it has left.

Phil

If it has not been raining, then the most likely cause for your water infiltration is a plugged evaporator drain hose.

Phil

It should say so on both the oil cap, and in the user's manual. But I believe its 5W30

Phil

I had a similar battery drain problem on an old Chevy Blazer I used to have. After 2 dead batteries in 2 weeks, it turned out to be poor connection with the frame. Bought new grounding cables and one of the main grounds from the battery to the frame was rusted. Wire brushed it out, put a big fat washer and connectivity juice on it, and that solved it. Hope the idea helps.

Thanks for the help. I figure I'll be checking all sorts of cables, grounding and otherwise, when I replace those battery cables. Better safe than sorry. After checking everything else, my best guess is that a bad connection/bad cables is probably the problem. I'll let you guys know how it worked out once I replace the cables and clean up all the connections.

I had a similar problem about 1 month ago. But instead of replacing the whole cable, I bought just a new cable terminal from the Lexus dealer, and reattached it to the original battery cable. Much better and much easier than buying and changing the complete cable. Took 5 Minutes. and all is still OEM.

Apparently its a relatively common part, as the Lexus dealer had the part in stock.

Total cost about $15.00

Phil

How do I replace the Cabin Air Filter for 95 es300?

I don't think that your model year has one, but if it does than the instructions will be in your owner's manual

Phil

You could do a fluid exhange instead of a flush...The Car is left running and the tranny pump flushed the fluid naturally. However, I would opt for a drain and fill without filter, drive a few days and do it again with either Toyota Type IV or Mobil Tranny fluid which is compatable.

Its too late now, as I had the Filter changed at the same time that the incident happened, but am curious as to why you are recommending not to change the filter?

Phil

I have a 2001 Lexus ES300 with 75,000 Miles, All was well until I decided to do a drain and refill. The garage drained my ATF fluid, (3.5 Liter of a total capacity of 8.25 Liters), and re-filled it with 3.5 Liters of Dexoil III.

I know that my car is only supposed to use Toyotal ATF T-IV and not Dexoil III. I realized his mistake only the next day.

I know that flashing the whole thing is not a good idea, and that draining and refilling again will only get some of the Dexron out but not all.

So now what do I do?

Thanks,

Phillip

Basically the Toyota fluids are Dexron base stocks and then Toyota has their supplier blend their "specific" blend of friction modifiers - these friction modifiers are there to "soften" shifting causing a certain amount of slippage as the clutches engage - that's why transmissions that originally came with regular Dexron ATF shift "firmer" and that's the ONLY difference - fluids that are not regular Dexron fluids are going to cause clutches to wear faster as evidenced at the dealer level by the fluid interval checks and the drastic change in fluid color from the clutch material getting into the fluid. With earlier transmissions I've used Chevron MD-3 exclusively - it seems to have just the right amount of friction modifier to where between 30k flushes the fluid still "looks" good. You don't need to replace the filter - it's a fine mesh screen and doesn't plug up - simply "okie flush" thru the cooler hose that's the output hose into a 5 gallon bucket

'02-04 is interference type engine - 100%.

I sent an E-mail earlier today to Gates asking for clarification on the Interference issue. Will post if/when they reply

Phil

There are several tricks you can use to try and locate the leak.

1) Lift the carpet and sprinkle lots of Talcum powder on the bare car floor, then once the water infiltrates, you can easily trace it back towards the source of the leak by looking at the traces in the Talcum powder.

2) UV dye is not a practical option in this case, but instead you can use some food coloring. Pour some food coloring into a bucket full of water, and pour the water where you suspect that the source of the water infiltration may be, such as for example around the sunroof. If the food coloring ends up in the car, than you can figure out what needs to be repaired. Do One section at a time.

Phil

I know it sounds a stupid question. I have been stuck at the very first step to take a look at my engine:

I unscrewed the two visible bolts at the front of the engine cover, but still cannot take the cover off, it feels something underneath the cover is connected to the engine itself.

Google has been used but no answer is found.

Thank you guys in advance for help!

The "Lexus" insignia on top of the Engine cover is actually a bolt. Just turn the "Lexus" insignia by hand counter clockwise, to release.

Phil