ssdoeg2 Posted July 7, 2010 Share Posted July 7, 2010 Howzit everybody, Started doing TB/WP replacement today on a 1995 LS. I can't get the bolt off the left ign. coil (bolt facing wheel well), I've tried from the side and from the front above the ac compressor and am unable to get it off. Is it a 14mm or a 13mm and which way did you get a socket or wratchet wrench on it. Sorry for such a simple question but I'm flustered. Wondering if I should drop the compressor first. Also gonna attempt the crank pulley removal and wanted to ask which way you placed the torque wrench on the floor(I believe towards the left wheel)when you do the engine start method. Thanks for all your help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ssdoeg2 Posted July 7, 2010 Author Share Posted July 7, 2010 Howzit everybody, Started doing TB/WP replacement today on a 1995 LS. I can't get the bolt off the left ign. coil (bolt facing wheel well), I've tried from the side and from the front above the ac compressor and am unable to get it off. Is it a 14mm or a 13mm and which way did you get a socket or wratchet wrench on it. Sorry for such a simple question but I'm flustered. Wondering if I should drop the compressor first. Also gonna attempt the crank pulley removal and wanted to ask which way you placed the torque wrench on the floor(I believe towards the left wheel)when you do the engine start method. Thanks for all your help. [/quo Disregard coil bolt problem, found a reply regarding it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
curiousB Posted July 7, 2010 Share Posted July 7, 2010 crankshaft rotates clockwise. If you are going to use starter motor to loosen nut then position breaker bar such that it can't follow the crank instead it hits the floor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RDM Posted July 7, 2010 Share Posted July 7, 2010 You don't want the breaker bar to hit the ground, that's the bad way of doing it. Place it underneath the passenger side frame rail, up against it. That way you're not digging into your driveway, breaking the bar and sending it recoiling back into the car, or worse, lifting the car up in the air. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landar Posted July 7, 2010 Share Posted July 7, 2010 You don't want the breaker bar to hit the ground, that's the bad way of doing it. Place it underneath the passenger side frame rail, up against it. That way you're not digging into your driveway, breaking the bar and sending it recoiling back into the car, or worse, lifting the car up in the air. Yes, and don't use the torque wrench for this method. Use a straight, non-ratcheting wrench. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ssdoeg2 Posted July 7, 2010 Author Share Posted July 7, 2010 Just jumped on the computer now, been out getting everything out of the way so I can remove the pulley and the cover behind it. I got lucky and loosened the crankshaft bolt on first crank, but I used a torque wrench and had the handle on the ground, not what you guys recommended, but it worked and nothing damaging happened. Stupid of me not to check my post for replies this morning before heading out or I would have known about your suggestions. Heading to napa to buy a puller unless you guys have a mcgyver method I can use. Thanks as always for your help!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ssdoeg2 Posted July 8, 2010 Author Share Posted July 8, 2010 Howzit everyone, Timing belt install moving along, water pump and inlet on, idler 1 and 2 on and TB tensioner on. Quick question, I got my parts from a friend in LA (Aloha auto Center in Rosemead) and he sent some oil seals with it. It looks like it goes behind the crank pulley and both cam pulleys. The ones on the car show no signs of leakage so I'm wondering if I can forego installing the new ones. All of the TB install forums do not mention changing the oil seals but my friend said since I'm there I should change them. Hope someone can post a reply fairly quickly so I can decide. Thanks guys. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RDM Posted July 8, 2010 Share Posted July 8, 2010 I always change the crank/cam seals on any car I work on if I'm in there. There's a few members who swear against doing them for some reason, but I think it's stupid to not replace a dry rotted, 20yr old seal when you're staring right at it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ssdoeg2 Posted July 10, 2010 Author Share Posted July 10, 2010 Thanks for the replies. I've got most everything put back on except for the radiator, shroud and fan. I'm unable to torque the crank bolt to specs, all I've got is a 19.2volt craftsman impact wrench and it only torques to 75 ft-lb. So I'm holding off on installing those parts till I figure out a way to torque it down. Anyone with any tips on doing this. Been trying to figure out a way to hook up my puller with a pipe thru it to possibly keep crank from turning and then torqueing bolt with my torque wrench but I'm thinking I'll bend the bolts going into pulley. Any tips besides forking out the bucks and buying an electric impact wrench? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
curiousB Posted July 10, 2010 Share Posted July 10, 2010 Search this forum. Some folks remove a shroud under the transmission and wedge a large Allen key in a hole in the flywheel and have it held back by shroud of transmission. You need a way to resist the crank from turning. Then all you need is a torque wrench (best way) or a breaker bar (and estimate force you apply for get to 181ftpds IE 90 pounds pressure on a 24" breaker bar is 180ftpds). A bigger impact wrench isn't the answer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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