Mounts, Struts And Brakes

[sgretchko]

Replaced engine and transmission mounts on 97 LS with 175k. No pressing issues, just a loss of smoothness and little rumble at startup. Engine and transmission smoothness is back. Transmission mount was in two pieces and one motor mount fell apart when it was removed.

Next issue is suspension. Ride has become floaty and not as absorbent over bumps, etc. Strut mounts replaced a while ago and dealer checked out control arms, said they were ok. I am thinking it may be time for new struts. OEM parts are about $525, KYB about $300. I am not sure what fair labor is for my little brake, muffler and shock shop to charge. Opinions?

Last question on brakes. Seem to have lost some braking power lately, more pressure on pedal is needed. Pads are 50% worn, have always turned rotors. Thoughts?

Thank you for your help and information.

[rickatups]

HI .... I have heard that the best deal on real factory parts is over at parts.com ..... I have not tried them yet, but a guru member here has, and reports that they are the real deal .... I have looked at their prices and they really are the best I have seen so far.

Your LS has a lot of miles .... so why not just put all new brake parts on it and enjoy peace-of-mind? With all due respect .... ummmm ... I do not see the point of trying to save a buck here and there on this particular car? If it was a Ford Taurus ... yes, perhaps. On the other hand, you can save money if you can get real factory parts for far less coin $$. I love to save money also ..... but personally, I do not want to start getting cheap when it comes to my LS ... I like it too much, you know?

By the way .... can I just say it .... Sir .... I am very puzzled as to why you would go to all the trouble to change-out the strut mounts, and not also change the struts themselves at the same time?????? It all has to come apart at the same time .... seems to me .... I am not getting on your case here, ok .... but I am just trying to understand this. Why pay double labor, as now you need to go back into it and also change the struts? What did you save by not doing the job completely the first time you got into all of this? This makes no sense to me at all ... perhaps you could clarify? I am reading your post again, and if I read this correctly the dealer did the work .... so that can only mean that you spent major, huge, gigantic $$bucks$$ for sure ..... I am surprised they even put it all back together with the old struts??? Did the Service Writer try to talk you into changing the struts themselves that same day ... and you declined? That would be kind of like my dermatologist cutting off a questionable mole on my back and then discovering another questionable mole very near it .... and then just leaving it there for some other day. I am sorry ... but it just makes no sense ....

OK ... well ... anyways ..... as for me, I have developed a severe allergy to what I call "double labor" .... so for example, I need to do my struts on my LS also right now ... but I have been holding off. Why? Because I want to do the whole thing one time ... not twice. I am going to do the strut mounts, the struts, the strut arms and the upper and lower ball joints as well. Why not, as it all comes apart anyways .... and .... I sure as heck do not want to dig back into this in another 50,000 miles ...... so I am going to do all of it one time. My car already has 140,000 mile on it ... logically, it is time, and all the parts are original. Additionally, I have a really great independent mechanic to do it for me, so I can also avoid the huge labor my dealer would charge me .... cool.

Same for the brake rotors .... yes ... you can certainly resurface them .... but they will warp much more quickly now that they have been made to be more thin. Thus ... you will have to go back again to do the same job ... probably sooner than later ..... a second time. I would like to suggest that it will save much effort (and cash) to simply put on new rotors now and be done with it. Problem solved. For a long time. Does that make sense ... ?

Well ... ummmm .... personally, I only use the real Lexus parts, given the fact that they last a heck of a long time ... just my feelings ... but I really do not think I am going to allow the little brake / muffler shop down the street to mess with my Lexus .... maybe my 15 year old Ford F-150 .... but my LS400??? Nope. I think I will pass on that ... but that is just me .....

Given the fact your car has quite a number of miles on it .... I think it would be wise to just start putting brand new parts on it. I would be keeping all the fluids / filters changed with the correct factory replacements ..... the only thing I might bend on is going into a synthetic transmission fluid (which I did about 40,000 miles ago) and Royal Purple engine oil ... both of which have worked well for me (95 LS 400) ....

one last thought .... you do know about the little Power Steering Solenoid Filter .... right? I think your '97' is the same set-up as my '95' so your car has it also ..... well ... I clean it at least every 24 months ... more often if I were to drive the car more ...

OK .... sooooo .... it is time for the Super Bowl again! So ... who do you think will win?

[sgretchko]

Ok, let me reply to each of your points.

1. I buy my all of my parts from Lexus of Pembroke Pines. Generally, the prices are similar to Parts.com. On the mounts, they were about a dollar higher per mount. For me, price is not the only factor. I like them and feel they provide me with superior overall value. You get the services of a factory trained parts professional. I generally speak to Dennis and he is wonderful. They check my order against the VIN to make sure I have the proper parts and provide helpful information. The website is cleaner, easier to use and a pleasure to do business with (http://www.trademotion.com/partlocator/ind...amp;catalogid=0).

2. You bring up new brake parts. The local Lexus dealer has done the two brake jobs required since purchasing the car with 27,000 miles. OEM pads, hardware kits and Toyota spec brake fluid was used. When they suggest replacement of the rotors, I will do it.

I raised the brake question because I am concerned with the other parts of the brake system. If pads, hardware and rotors are good, maybe other parts of the brake system need attention. I am concerned about the brake booster, master cylinder or other parts. A similar problem on my 1980 Corolla SR5 Sport Coupe was solved by replacing the "slave cylinder", unrelated to pads, rotors, etc. I was just looking for ideas from experienced owners.

3. I have a strong relationship with the service advisor at my local dealer. He understands my desire to properly maintain the car for the long run and I trust him. When the strut mounts were replaced at approximately 100k, I asked about replacing the struts. My advisor and the senior technican recommended against it. They explained that the struts were fine and that any labor savings would be minimal. Remember, they earn their living by selling parts and labor. If they say no, I do not do it.

4. I had my little brake and muffler shop ASE certified mechanics do my mounts using the OEM parts. They are honest, experienced and have worked on my families cars for over 20 years. They are a better choice for some jobs, like replacing the egr tube. The job doesn't require a senior Lexus tech and they appreciate the work. In this economy, they need the business and I like to support local small business.

I hope this clears up your confusion. With a little luck , I would like to take this car to over 300,000 miles and appreciate any suggestions or help along the way. Thank you.

[rickatups]

Hi ... I am really curious ... are you still using the factory original alternator?

and also .... do you know if the power Steering Solenoid Filter has ever been serviced on your car? It is just a really small little filter located on the steering rack itself ...

thanks ...

[sgretchko]

1. Alternator is original. Previously, the only non-maintanence parts that had been replaced are the starter, fuel pump, strut mounts and an exhaust heat shield. The engine and transmission mounts now must be added to the list.

2. The screen is cleaned approximately once a year by the little brake and muffler shop.