Brake Replacement Recommendations For Gs 350

[madyash]

if you can do it yourself and you know what your are doing, then this is a no brainer.

I will be doing my own in the next couple of weeks. I am just trying to figure if I am going to get new shims, new brake kit and new stainless steel lines.

I don't do anything small. The other side of me says replace the pads with Ake's or Hawks and just cut the rotors.

It is not uncommon for me to argue with myself.

steviej.

Turns out I only needed to replace the pads. Shims, lines and rotors were fine. However, 500 miles into a set of Hawk Performance Ceraminc Pads and I absolutely hate them. The give off more dust than a BMW or MB. Totally unacceptable for the price I paid. I am working with Tirerack to replace with Akebono ProACT ceramics or get a refund and just go back to stock.

steviej

Sorry to hear the Hawks didn't work out. Hopefully Tire Rack is willing to work with you on it. Let us know if you go with the Akebonos since I'll likely have a brake job due before the end of the summer. I had a new ES while my GS was in for service - huge difference in stopping power relative to my car so I figure it's time for new pads.

[steviej]

TireRack offered me the Ake's at half price. I am putting them on Sunday.

A CL member in NV wants my discarded Hawk pads. It all works out fine.

Hopefully the Ake's will be virtually dustless.

steviej

[madyash]

Did you get the new pads on? How are they working out? (yes, it has only been a few days, but figured I'd ask anyway!)

[steviej]

Did you get the new pads on? How are they working out? (yes, it has only been a few days, but figured I'd ask anyway!)

Much better than the Hawk Performance Ceramincs. The Akebono ProACT Ceramics are quieter than the Hawks, they have as much stopping power if not a little better than the previous stock pads but most of all they have minimal dust. Now mind you I am only 200 miles into them, but very little has built up if any at all. I am very pleased. The next question will be to see if I get over 50k miles out of them as I did the original stock pads.

Thanks for asking.

steivej

[madyash]

Much better than the Hawk Performance Ceramincs. The Akebono ProACT Ceramics are quieter than the Hawks, they have as much stopping power if not a little better than the previous stock pads but most of all they have minimal dust. Now mind you I am only 200 miles into them, but very little has built up if any at all. I am very pleased. The next question will be to see if I get over 50k miles out of them as I did the original stock pads.

Thanks for asking.

steivej

I assume you're still happy with the Akebono's, stevie? I figure you've probably got at least another 1K on them?

I really need to do my brakes before it gets cold. Will probably order the same pads based on your experience. Did you order anything else besides pads - new shims, or other hardware? Or are just the pads needed? This'll be my first time doing brakes on the GS (I've done several Nissan's and Honda's before). Looking at the service manual, it seems more complicated than those cars (i've never bled brake lines to install pads before!). I'm assuming that once I get the new pads in, I can just use a C-clamp to push the piston back as I have done in other cars, or is that a bad idea?

Thanks

[steviej]

I assume you're still happy with the Akebono's, stevie? I figure you've probably got at least another 1K on them?

I really need to do my brakes before it gets cold. Will probably order the same pads based on your experience. Did you order anything else besides pads - new shims, or other hardware? Or are just the pads needed? This'll be my first time doing brakes on the GS (I've done several Nissan's and Honda's before). Looking at the service manual, it seems more complicated than those cars (i've never bled brake lines to install pads before!). I'm assuming that once I get the new pads in, I can just use a C-clamp to push the piston back as I have done in other cars, or is that a bad idea?

Thanks

Actually, I have close to 2,000 miles on them. I absolutely love them and couldn't beat the price from TireRack.com.

You don't need to buy anything else (just maybe some blue goo, aka: Permatex Brake Quiet). The pads come with a new shim attached. I removed them and reattached them with a thin coat of brake quiet to help reduce any squeal. The stock pads had two shims so I used the stock outer shim as the outer shim with the new pads (applying some brake quiet as well).

The front brakes are a piece of cake. Two 14mm caliper pins/bolts and the caliper comes off the cradle. Loosen the brake bleed, compress the pistion, tighten the brake bleed, then remove the caliper and hang it up out of the way with a coat hanger or something. The old pads slip right out. Transfer the wear indicator to the new pads - - its just clips on. Insert the new pads into the slots, replace the caliper, relube the caliper slides on the pins, tighten and you are done. You don't even have to bleed since no air got in the system.

The back brakes are even easier. The caliper doesn't have to be removed. Remove a transverse spring clip, then the two long spring clips (inside and outside). Remove the two pins and slide the pads out. Loosen the brake bleed, compress the caliper, tighten the brake bleed. Reattach the brake wear indicators to the new pads, slip them in, insert the two pins, and then the three spring clips. Done.

There are two good pictorial threads in the 3rd gen. GS section on CL. Search overthere on my name and you will find them.

On the brake bleed and pistion compression. I have made a handy device. Its a 6 inch length of tube that fits snuggly on the bleed screw. On the other end I put a one way check valve and then a 15 inch section of tubing off the other side of the valve. The valve is not absolutely necessary but helps. Just a lenght of tubing will work fine. At the other end of the tubing is a container to catch the old fluid that will come out. Open the bleed screw, and use a pry, large screw driver or reverse pliers (when you squeeze they open) to spread the old pads and thus compress the piston. With the bleed screw open, the old fluid is expressed out and the piston has less resistance and compresses very easily. Once compressed, close the bleed screw. The one way valve in the line or the fluid in the line will prevent air from going back into the caliper. The C-clamp is fine but since you are not undoing the brake line, it may be hard to get it on under the the wheel well and negotiate the strut. Just top off the reservoir when done.

Three weeks after I put the pads in, I installed stainless steel brake lines. These helped reduce the spongy feeling the GS brake system has. This time the lines did come off, so a thorough bleeding of the brake system was in order. I actually evacuated the reservoir, added new fluid, and purged a complete resevoir of fluid through the brakes to get all the old fluid and air out once the new lines were on.

The pads and stainless lines give me absolutely incredible response and great stopping power with minimal to no dust.

steviej

[madyash]

Actually, I have close to 2,000 miles on them. I absolutely love them and couldn't beat the price from TireRack.com.

You don't need to buy anything else (just maybe some blue goo, aka: Permatex Brake Quiet). The pads come with a new shim attached. I removed them and reattached them with a thin coat of brake quiet to help reduce any squeal. The stock pads had two shims so I used the stock outer shim as the outer shim with the new pads (applying some brake quiet as well).

The front brakes are a piece of cake. Two 14mm caliper pins/bolts and the caliper comes off the cradle. Loosen the brake bleed, compress the pistion, tighten the brake bleed, then remove the caliper and hang it up out of the way with a coat hanger or something. The old pads slip right out. Transfer the wear indicator to the new pads - - its just clips on. Insert the new pads into the slots, replace the caliper, relube the caliper slides on the pins, tighten and you are done. You don't even have to bleed since no air got in the system.

The back brakes are even easier. The caliper doesn't have to be removed. Remove a transverse spring clip, then the two long spring clips (inside and outside). Remove the two pins and slide the pads out. Loosen the brake bleed, compress the caliper, tighten the brake bleed. Reattach the brake wear indicators to the new pads, slip them in, insert the two pins, and then the three spring clips. Done.

There are two good pictorial threads in the 3rd gen. GS section on CL. Search overthere on my name and you will find them.

On the brake bleed and pistion compression. I have made a handy device. Its a 6 inch length of tube that fits snuggly on the bleed screw. On the other end I put a one way check valve and then a 15 inch section of tubing off the other side of the valve. The valve is not absolutely necessary but helps. Just a lenght of tubing will work fine. At the other end of the tubing is a container to catch the old fluid that will come out. Open the bleed screw, and use a pry, large screw driver or reverse pliers (when you squeeze they open) to spread the old pads and thus compress the piston. With the bleed screw open, the old fluid is expressed out and the piston has less resistance and compresses very easily. Once compressed, close the bleed screw. The one way valve in the line or the fluid in the line will prevent air from going back into the caliper. The C-clamp is fine but since you are not undoing the brake line, it may be hard to get it on under the the wheel well and negotiate the strut. Just top off the reservoir when done.

Three weeks after I put the pads in, I installed stainless steel brake lines. These helped reduce the spongy feeling the GS brake system has. This time the lines did come off, so a thorough bleeding of the brake system was in order. I actually evacuated the reservoir, added new fluid, and purged a complete resevoir of fluid through the brakes to get all the old fluid and air out once the new lines were on.

The pads and stainless lines give me absolutely incredible response and great stopping power with minimal to no dust.

steviej

Thanks for all the great info. I saw your earlier post about the SS brake lines and was thinking about doing the same. The only reservation I have is how the extra "bite" will handle in the Chicago winters. I found the GS skidding quit a bit last year as soon as I'd tap the brake, and I'm afraid that with a more potent brake, I'll only worsen the problem. I know you use dedicated winter tires in the snow, so you may not see this issue at all.

I did find a couple of pictoral threads on the CL forum. Thanks for the pointer!!

Thanks!