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97 Es300 Power Window Problem


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Hi Everyone.

This is my first time posting, as I've not been able to find a good solution to this problem.

I have a 97 ES300, and the problem is that I can open and close all four power windows without any issues from the front driver side control, but I can't do that from any of the other three door controls. Sometimes if I press the up or down button at the other three doors long enough, it may go up or down, but very slowly.

I would really appreciate any suggestions.

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My first thought was you have the driver's control lock-out on (this button locks-out all the power window control buttons on the other doors out so just the driver's door works). If that's not engaged, then maybe there is a problem with that switch/circuit and it's engaging itself. It's the only thing I know that would give that kind of symptom.

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My first thought was you have the driver's control lock-out on (this button locks-out all the power window control buttons on the other doors out so just the driver's door works). If that's not engaged, then maybe there is a problem with that switch/circuit and it's engaging itself. It's the only thing I know that would give that kind of symptom.

I thought the same thing. But wouldn't that mean it should just completely not work. The lock/unlock on the passenger side door works fine, and the other three window switches move the windows, sporadically and slowly. If the switch was engaged it shouldn't move, correct?

Thanks for your response.

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Yes, if the switch was engage, the other controls shouldn't work... but it sounds like you might have something wrong with the wiring in that area. Could be corrosion on the control switch giving partial contact/insulation. Have you tried having someone try and roll down the passenger window from the passenger door controls while you turn that master control switch on and off? See how it responds. I think it's just a hard contact switch, and if it's making partial contact down in there somehow, you could be getting bleed-by voltage/current (you might have some strange capacitance/inductance thing going on in the circuitry). Does pushing that control switch make any difference, or do you get the same result no matter if it's engaged or not?

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  • 2 weeks later...
Yes, if the switch was engage, the other controls shouldn't work... but it sounds like you might have something wrong with the wiring in that area. Could be corrosion on the control switch giving partial contact/insulation. Have you tried having someone try and roll down the passenger window from the passenger door controls while you turn that master control switch on and off? See how it responds. I think it's just a hard contact switch, and if it's making partial contact down in there somehow, you could be getting bleed-by voltage/current (you might have some strange capacitance/inductance thing going on in the circuitry). Does pushing that control switch make any difference, or do you get the same result no matter if it's engaged or not?

Thanks for your response. I was away for a bit. I tried with the master control switch on/off. With it off (ie. so that none of the windows should move) none of the windows move. With it on. I am able to move the windows slowly on the windows that are misbehaving. Once again everything works fine if I control all the windows from the driver side. You mentioned something about corrosion on the control switch. How do I go about checking that out?

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  • 4 years later...

Not sure if this problem is resolved or not, however wanted to share that I was facing an absolute similar problem on my 97 ES300. Power window on passenger side door would open and close perfectly when operated through the drive side door's control however would open and close either very very slow or not at all through the passenger side door switch.

I bought a used switch from ebay and got it replaced. Problem solved. Costed just $10/-.

This issue was happening on just one window on my car (resolved now). All other had been working perfectly always.

Car is at 297K (KM) and I am glad with its performance. Drive like a champ.

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Long shot here. Get some electrical contact cleaner spray and shoot some into each of the switches, one at a time. Immediately cycle the switch several times to clean the internal contacts. Do all of the switches, and then wait 5 minutes for the fluid to evaporate before turning on the key and trying them. Do the driver's switch as well.

If this doesn't do the trick, repeat it and try again.

If this still doesn't fix the problem, you may find that there is a power window amplifier in the circuitry that has gone bad. Its usually in the driver's door. As well, check that your wiring harness to the driver's switches is properly seated on the bottom of the switch assembly. There may even be a corroded connector on the switch (driver's) or a kinked wire going through the rubber gaiter at the door hinge area. Lots of things to check. Good Luck!

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