Power Window Motor Swap

[es300_]

hi all - i have finally gotten my 92-96 es300 front driver door panel off, now i can see the regulator and motor assembly. i believe the motor is bad and am planning to try and buy that part and thus replace that.

does anyone know how difficult it is to get the old motor off? and new one back in place? is the "worst" over now that i can see the assembly? wondering if i have to remove the cross-bar that runs horizontally across the door (which partially blocks the glass and regulator/motor assembly). see attached picture.

any insight from someone whose made it thru this is much appreciated

motor.bmp

[gbhrps]

I haven't done an ES power window motor swap, but have done many remove and replace entire door contents for the restoration shop I work for. Even done wind up window to power window swaps for various vehicles. Based on that, I think you'll find that you'll have to remove the glass from the door, and possibly the window tracks and the entire motor window crank assembly as well, just to be able to get at the motor. Each manufacturer is different in how the guts of the door goes together, and even then changes them from model year to model year. I couldn't get your posted image to load in order to get a clue, and I'm assuming that you have put power to the motor to ensure that it is the culprit, and not the switch or the window amplifier, if so equipped, or even a broken wire near the door hinge. That said, its a look and see how it could come apart process. Usually the window has to be lowered almost to its lowest level in order to see where its bottom horizontal track attaches to the glass. Usually its 2 bolts that fasten the track to the glass through 2 holes in the glass, or plastic slider clips doing the same, and you can only see them when the glass is lowered to a point where holes in the door line up with them, allowing a socket to reach them. Once free, you usually pull the glass part way up by hand and tip it forward out of its front track, and then forward out of its rear track, and sideways up out of the door. You may have to loosen or remove the front lower glass track fastener bolts from the door (mark their position to get the track back to its correct alignment when reassembling) in order to get enough room to swing the glass out. At this point you should be able to remove the 4 bolts (mark their position to get the track back to its correct alignment when reassembling) that hold the entire window crank/motor assembly to the door and take it out of the door as one piece. Your only other snags may be the rods from the inside door handle and its locking lever, and the front door speaker (usually this isn't necessary). They may have to be removed in order to get room to get the crank/motor out. This whole operation is not rocket science, but can be intimidating for the novice first time out. Good Luck and let us know how you make out!

[es300_]

thanks gbhrps - sounds like you are better equipped to tackle this one then me, novice i am. i have not verified the switch isn't the culprit - i'm aware that "should" be done b4 assuming it's the motor but don't really know how. i am pretty sure it would involve using a volt tester (which i have or can get)....and i am guessing now that the door panel is off (switch is part of door panel - wire to motor is disconnected) that means that i hold the door panel close enough to re-attach the wiring and then press the volt tester somewhere while activating the switch w/ the ignition on (but don't know where that is you are supposed to hold the tester terminals on - any advice is appreciated).

this makes me wish they still made rollup windows in cars....

[es300_]

quick update - i was about to dive into replacing the motor but decided to bang on the old motor (while applying power to the motor thru the switch w/ the door panel off and motor exposed) w/ a wrench a bit. a couple modest clunks w/ it, and the motor worked again....

so i can say i fixed it for now. and hope it doesn't go out again or gets to where it's not fixable w/ this technique. cheers.

[gbhrps]

Sounds like you found your problem. Its either a corroded or loose wiring connection at the motor, or you have corroded brushes inside the motor itself. I'd bet on the connector where the harness attaches to the motor. Pull the connector off of the motor (there'll be a clip portion on the connector plug that you'll have to depress while you're pulling the connector off the motor). See if you can't get the nozzle of a spray can of electrical contact cleaner into the door interior and clean the motor contacts on both the motor and the wiring harness. Give them several minutes to evaporate the cleaner, reconnect and test the system again. If this does it, put everything back together. Good Luck!

[es300_]

last update here - i went ahead and replaced the motor and managed to get that done. getting it off the regulator wasn't as hard as i feared it would be. unfortunately when i was done, while it went up/down again, the speed was just like it was before (b4 it went out completely).

i tried to lube the track and anywhere i could see the glass might make contact w/ but it didn't really help. the regulator plastic housing had a crack in it near where one end hooks onto the motor - from all the years of stress on it it seems. i tie strapped it together as best i could so it may hold it from completely breaking for awhile. i also notice that the cable on the regulator assembly had an inch or two of slack in it which isn't good - seems the cable has stretched over time.

i've put the door back together and will just live w/ the slow speed until the regulator finally breaks or gets worse - then i think i will take it to a shop for the regulator work. cheers

[gbhrps]

While you're waiting, why not start searching for a wrecked or salvaged car that has the same door in good shape? You might be able to buy the window mechanism you need very cheaply, particularly if its in a salvage yard where they let you remove the parts yourself. Get the parts, and when the motor finally lets you down, or you get the time to tackle the job on your terms, you'll be all set to do the remove and replace for a fraction of the cost of having a body shop do it. Always a good deal!