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Stock Strut Bars


chargerucd

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Hello,

I am thinking about autocrossing and to that end i was looking for suspension upgrades on my es, now my car does not come with a strut bar and i remember seeing a car that had a "stock-looking" strut bar, so my question is, did some ES 300 had a stock strut bar? The reason i am asking is because if i get the "after market" version(already got it by the way), my car will then have an suspension upgrade and will not be in the stock class anymore.

if other cars had a stock one, can you tell me which ones so i can scout the junkyard to see if i can get one in my car.

OR if anybody Has a stock strut bar and would like to trade, please let me know.

thanks for the help.

ChaRgerUcd

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Strut tower braces are bull*BLEEP*. The generally interffer in some manner with the upper intake air chamber, nor will you ever find one strong enoh to actually improve anything. It's all flexible *BLEEP*ty materials, and on the very rare occation you find one strong enough, it still uses flexible sections, and if you were to just hard-weld a bar on there. It not only costs you weight, but they don't move that damned much tobegin with!

We do not have front, or rear tower braces. We do have front & rear sway bars (Anti-roll bars, same thing by any other name right?).

1st:

Upgrade the rear sway bar, if you own a non 92-96 car, think about upgrading the front sway bar also as it's smaller. Searched, u ahve a '96. So stock front sways bars are plenty good enoguh

2nd:

Upgrade the springs & struts to more aggressive models

3rd:

215mm tires will provide the maximum balance of grip & transient responce. Wider will increase grip & slow transition & vice-versa for tires of less width.

Your stock is 205/65 R-15

http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html

Will show the "compatible" sizing to not throw off your speedo/odo.

That's for handling.

You can adjust the transmission a small amount via the throttle valve cable. Do so!

Get a new y-pipe for the engine! High-flow cat helps even more.

The Camry SE had the hidden option of a shorter differential gearing. You could always do that if u can find them, but that also trades off things...

The car can be made lighter. Ditch anything you don't need. Spare tire (please atleast keep an inflator & patch kit). Passanger seat. Rear seat is just foam so it's not really that important.

Some 1mz-fe's from that era have oversensative knock sensors. If yours are, relocate them. Run 89-94 octane gas to appease them.

around 20-25psi front is pretty much the best for traction, but don't drive at such a low level.

The thing with tower braces, is that if they're good they will do something. The problem with them is that they do so little, it's literaly like getting that last few percent of an upgrade after you've done *everything* else.

Oh! Change your powersteering, transmission & differential fluids.

Hawk HPS brake pads up front

Brembo Blank rotors

Dot 4 fluid.

Auto-x'ing really isn't as hard on the car as some people like to thing. It's not as stressfull as going on a real race track & they normally only last 2 minutes at a time max. So... Just good pads & fresh dot4 fluid & you won't even have a hint of brake fading.

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Will do,

I was thinking about getting "performacne Friction" pads and brembo blanks, and also some spare "stock wheels"(required for stck class) and add some sticky rubber for the track i am already running 215/60/15 but thouught that 225/50/15 would be best for that.

Initially i was looking for harder shocks and haven't found much since i don't want to lower it (stock class). so it you have some recommended replacement shocks let me know.

thanks a lot

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