Diagnostic Lights

[backyard_famer]

Heading for the store tonight and both the check engine light and trac off light stayed on after I started the car. Went to the owners manual. Trac Off sounds like an electronic transmission controller problem. Check Engine may be related as the OM also refers to possible transmission issues. Anyone have any background on this?

Thanks!

backyard_farmer

[steviej]

There are hundreds of codes that anyone or number of sensors may have sent to the ECU that triggered the combination of the two indicator lights. In general the two lights on together mean the car is in safety mode or as we like to call it: "limp" mode.

You won't know what the cause(s) is until you get the codes currently in the ECU read. Autozone does this for free. Have them pull the trouble codes then post them up here.

steviej

[backyard_famer]

There are hundreds of codes that anyone or number of sensors may have sent to the ECU that triggered the combination of the two indicator lights. In general the two lights on together mean the car is in safety mode or as we like to call it: "limp" mode.

You won't know what the cause(s) is until you get the codes currently in the ECU read. Autozone does this for free. Have them pull the trouble codes then post them up here.

steviej

Thanks for the reply!

I did stop at Auto Zone on my way home from work tonight!

The lone code that pulled was P1135. Air/Fuel Heater Sensor Malfunction.

Nothing was pulled concerning the Trac Off light.

The guy from Auto Zone (college friend of my son) said it still may be an Oxygen sensor, so I looked at the service part costs at Auto Zone (Bosch parts, probably OEM) and was somewhat shocked. $200 to $250 depending on where the sensor was located. How difficult is it to install the sensor?

backyard farmer.

[steviej]

P1135 is the AF Sensor at Bank 1 Sensor 1. It is doable but the hardest to reach of the 4 and you will need an O2 socket so you don't mash the new wire. B1S1 is between the manifold and the cat on the bank of cylinders closest to the firewall. When the engine is cold, a few applications of Liquid Wrench on the old AF sensor will help ease it out.

I would stick with Toyota/Lexus OEM as they are about the same price. I recently paid $226 from a Toyota dealership. This way you know the connectors and the length of the wire will be correct.

steviej

PS: P1135 will set off the CEL and TRAC OFF lights. It has nothing to do with the TRAC system other than it is shut down while the car is in safety mode.

[backyard_famer]

When looking at the Shop Manual I see there are two A/F sensors.

One in the front and one in the rear. Both ahead of the cat converter. One in the front is a piece of cake to get to. The one in the rear, as you described is tight. Did your price of $226 include two sensors?

The dealer told me $149 labor, I presume that would cover both sensors. How long can I drive with the A/F sensor light on? Is there the possibility for fouling the plugs? Poor fuel mileage?

Thanks!

[steviej]

When looking at the Shop Manual I see there are two A/F sensors.

One in the front and one in the rear. Both ahead of the cat converter. One in the front is a piece of cake to get to. The one in the rear, as you described is tight. Did your price of $226 include two sensors?

The dealer told me $149 labor, I presume that would cover both sensors. How long can I drive with the A/F sensor light on? Is there the possibility for fouling the plugs? Poor fuel mileage?

Thanks!

-The one in the front is Bank 2 and the one in the rear is Bank 1. Before the cat is Sensor 1, after the cat is Sensor 2.

-$226 was for one and only one sensor.

-You can drive as long as you want, but expect poor gas mileage and a heavy repair bill when the catalytic converter gets overheated due to too much fuel in the mix. I wouldn't let it go too long, a week tops. I know some people that have had it on for months, but that is them.

steviej

[backyard_famer]

When I was at Advance Auto, the Bosch Sensor (part 15733) had a sale price of $83. You had to cut the wires to fit, (of course the wire colors were different as well) but the connections appeared to be the same. Risk I suppose would be the construction of the sensor, if the same metals were used, etc., leading to possibly a slight change in the air/fuel mixture rate at various exhaust temperatures? Your comment about expensive catalytic converter bill is valid. Probably just "scared" myself out of using a non OEM component. I also saw at Advance Auto (on the screen as the clerk was checking to see if the parts were actually in inventory that typical life on the sensors is 100K miles. Makes sense as my car is over 100K miles. Next question is......what about bank 2, sensor 1, a P1155 DTC? As only one code came up on the Auto Zone scan, P1135, should be "safe" and only have to replace one. It appears a P1155 will be occuring based on the 100K life expectancy. Thanks for helping me along the diagnostic path of the ES300. The FSM I was able to download has helped immensely.

I'll let you know how it turns out.

backyard farmer.

[backyard_famer]

Sitting in my Lexus dealership customer lounge. They are high speed wireless. Quoted repair for a P1135 error code, parts and labor, $380

Typically I would get a "loaner" Lexus while the work is being done, but this time, they assured me I would be out in about an hour. Dealership is top notch, they have always treated me well. Service manager winked at me and asked, when are you going to just by service parts and do your own repair.......

While cruising the showroom, found my next car......2007 IS350

backyard farmer