Egr Pipe Job And P-r Clank Noise

[morg96ls400]

Hi I just bought the pipe and gaskets for replacing the EGR pipe as mine is cracked. The question I have is whether there are any parts on the transmission or other things that need to be dropped out (driveshaft, exhaust, etc) that should be inspected/changed out now while everything is taken apart (ie like doing the water pump during a timing belt change). Also, there is some play in the shifting linkage that goes from my shifter to the transmission itself. I can move it around with my hand and it makes a "click" noise everytime I go from or between any of the gears (p-r-n-d-1-2) but makes no noise when actually driving. Also, when I shift from P-R only on a cold start (usually) there is a loud metallic clank like there is something loose underneath. The SAME noise also occurs when I go over those bumpy reflectors in between lanes, and I looked underneath while my friend shifted from P-R and it seems like the whole exhaust torques a bit, but I could not pinpoint where the noise was coming from due to the echo of the undercarriage.

Any help/suggestions greatly appreciated, have a nice day!

[morg96ls400]

Aha, I've made some progress in finding out what is causing the notorious clank when shifting into R from P. Yesterday I replaced my front rotors and did my oil change, and today I did the rear ones. I noticed that the rear right rotor DID NOT HAVE ANY MOUNTING SCREWS like the other three. WTH? the thing could rotate freely and clank into the hub bolts. The hub itself didn't even have drilled holes for the screws to even go into, so they weren't just missing, they weren't there since it was made. My question is, is this normal or is it a manufacturing flaw? Also, I replicated the clank I hear when shifting from P-R by hand. I did this by moving the rear left wheel while it was jacked up and I noticed that it met some resistance and clanked somewhere inside the rear differential. So I guess I'm gonna have to have someone open it up and see what's going on to cause this. Maybe the fiber joint to the driveshaft has gone out? No clue but any insight's/suggestions appreciated. (BTW i changed all the rotors due to a braking squeel caused by a glaze on the rotors and uneven runout. LUCKILY I only have to remove the pads from the right rear and press that piston in to clear the new rotor because getting the springy little return clips back into the pads was a pain in the a$$ (took an hour just for that). Anyway hope all your summer fixes go well.

[CUMan]

For some strange reason, it appears that the Lexus OEM rotors always have holes for the two mounting screws, but the rotors for the LS that are non-OEM do not have these holes.

I replaced the rotors on my 93 LS about two months ago. The rotors I used did not have these screw holes. I have never heard any unusual sound, nor have I noticed any other difference in the brakes which would indicate that the absence of these screws is causing any problem.

There would be one caveat here, however. If the holes for the lug bolts are too large, I could see where there might be some movement of the rotor when the brakes are applied. I would also think that the tightness of the lug nuts would be important, too. As I recall, the lugs are supposed to be tightened to 75 ft lbs.