How To Connect A Subwoofer Rx400 Or Rx330

[jerryray]

Ok, these pictures show a basslink subwoofer sitting in the cargo area of my RX400h.

This WILL work the same for the RX330.

The subwoofer pictured here..

http://www.icomrepair.com/picts/basslink.jpg

Is sitting on a mounting board, connected via rx accessory plug as seen.

The speaker connections for passenger and driver side are here:

http://www.icomrepair.com/picts/speakerdriver.jpg

http://www.icomrepair.com/picts/speakerright.jpg

The colors are what you need to connect.

You will notice that large capacitor next to the subwoofer, it is used to prevent voltage drops upon heavy bass.

The Ideal install would be large wires from the battery, installing this cap really works to prevent bass loss due to voltage drops.

I have installed connectors so when I need cargo space I remove the sub and tuck the plugs in the space below the rx's plug.

Really works for me no wires cut, no holes drilled and sounds great.

Be sure to listen in and work the phase switch for the deepest bass response.

I went a little further and have an external volume control up front mounted with Velcro. This gives me control of the level of bass.

Enjoy it's not difficult and you will be pleased.

BTW it adds just the right amount depending on content. If you are looking for bass that will rock the cars around you this is not going to give you that.

[speedyg]

Cool, this info is great. I was also thinking about getting a Basslink (maybe the 250watt Basslink II) since the ML bass is lacking. I think my 94 camry has better bass. So your subwoofer is mounted on a mounting board. Is the mounting board on top of the carpeted cargo mat or is it beneath the cargo mat? How is the mounting board attached to the vehicle or mat?

[jerryray]

Cool, this info is great.  I was also thinking about getting a Basslink (maybe the 250watt Basslink II) since the ML bass is lacking.  I think my 94 camry has better bass.  So your subwoofer is mounted on a mounting board.  Is the mounting board on top of the carpeted cargo mat or is it beneath the cargo mat?  How is the mounting board attached to the vehicle or mat?

←

The sub just sits there, heavy enough never to move. There is enough friction between the velcro like covering and the cargo mat.

I may upgrade to the 250 watt someday.

[dc67su]

Thank you for sharing the info!

I have used Basslink in my other vehicles with complete satisfaction. Since you didn't take the power from the battery, what's the power source? :)

[jerryray]

Thank you for sharing the info! 

I have used Basslink in my other vehicles with complete satisfaction.  Since you didn't take the power from the battery, what's the power source?  :)

←

Sure you do, notice the plug on the left side, it's plugged into the accessory socket.

The cap makes up for the wiring not being to handle large current demands.

[Robl45]

Running it through the power port doesn't put a strain on the system? What if you that switch up front that does the 110 volts? My dealer said it switches all the 12 volts to 110 volts. Won't that fry your subwoofer?

[jerryray]

Running it through the power port doesn't put a strain on the system? What if you that switch up front that does the 110 volts? My dealer said it switches all the 12 volts to 110 volts. Won't that fry your subwoofer?

Huh, really, the 110volt inverter has nothing to do with the 12v accessory plug on the other side.

Completely separate...

[Robl45]

Well I thought the dealer might be a off on that. So what does the switch do? It just turns on the 110 volt outlet and thats it?

quote name='jerryray' date='Nov 23 2006, 11:40 PM' post='216273']

Running it through the power port doesn't put a strain on the system? What if you that switch up front that does the 110 volts? My dealer said it switches all the 12 volts to 110 volts. Won't that fry your subwoofer?

Huh, really, the 110volt inverter has nothing to do with the 12v accessory plug on the other side.

Completely separate...

[jerryray]

The switch just enables the 110volt 100 watt inverter.

[jkatsoudas]

First off- this is my first post on this forum and I want to thank everyone here for the incredible information. Reading the forum helped me decide to buy my new 2007 RXh. Since buying it I've added a VAIS Soundlinq SLX (XM radio), and this thread got me interested in adding a Basslink.

My attempts so far have been less than successful. I decided to run a 10ga wire directly to the battery, as the idea of running a 200W amp off a cigarette lighter made me a bit nervous. :P Several cut-up knuckles later that's done. I then tapped the rear speakers exactly as shown in this thread. I also downloaded the wiring schematic off the TIS website and can add some info on the wiring in order to ensure proper polarity of the wiring. The driver's side speaker leads are: white +, yellow -. Passenger side is: red w/yellow +, Blue -.

Using this setup I couldn't get the Basslink auto turn-on to work. After verifying a good 12v and ground connection with a multimeter I jumpered the +12V to the remote turn-on. It turned on and proceeded to produce some of the nastiest, muddiest bass I've ever heard. No amount of tweaking could get anything remotely resembling decent sound out of the thing. After more closely studying the setup I suspect that this has to do with the equalization of the ML system. The rear speakers are described as mid-woofers, which would imply to me that the low frequencies are rolled off. Therefore, the Basslink isn't getting a full spectrum signal off the rear speakers. Those that have added a Basslink off the rears, can you advise if you have a ML or non-ML system?

Next, I called Infinity for some moral support. The guy I spoke with basically said forget about trying to get decent sound out of any of the speaker outputs from the amp on a system that does a lot of processing/equalizing. The signal is so massaged and equalized that it will not produce satisfactory results. He suggested trying to get the signal from the head unit to the amp, so I tried this next.

I was already familiar with pulling the HU from the VAIS install, so I tempted fate again with the two top screws (managed not to lose them the first time). I found the connector that leads from the HU to the amp and temporarily connected a pair of leads from there to the Basslink. Bass was indeed noticeably improved! One small drawback is that, apparently, all volume control and muting is handled by the amp not the HU so the Basslink now played at the same volume regardless of the volume (or no volume) of the rest of the system. Scratch that- back to the drawing board.

So this is where I find myself. All I want to do is add a little bit of clean, tight bass without spending a ton. The only inexpensive option that I haven't tried yet is to tap the front woofers (door speakers) and hope they have the signal in the 20Hz - 150Hz range, and that it's not too distorted for the Basslink to use (Infinity tech support didn't think this would work). Barring that, the only other viable approach is to use something like the JL Audio Cleansweep to un-equalize the amp output, but this is far more than I'm currently looking to spend.

So, I apologize for the long-winded post but I'm all ears if anyone has any other ideas.

Thanks,

John

[NeoN]

First off- this is my first post on this forum and I want to thank everyone here for the incredible information. Reading the forum helped me decide to buy my new 2007 RXh. Since buying it I've added a VAIS Soundlinq SLX (XM radio), and this thread got me interested in adding a Basslink.

My attempts so far have been less than successful. I decided to run a 10ga wire directly to the battery, as the idea of running a 200W amp off a cigarette lighter made me a bit nervous. :P Several cut-up knuckles later that's done. I then tapped the rear speakers exactly as shown in this thread. I also downloaded the wiring schematic off the TIS website and can add some info on the wiring in order to ensure proper polarity of the wiring. The driver's side speaker leads are: white +, yellow -. Passenger side is: red w/yellow +, Blue -.

Using this setup I couldn't get the Basslink auto turn-on to work. After verifying a good 12v and ground connection with a multimeter I jumpered the +12V to the remote turn-on. It turned on and proceeded to produce some of the nastiest, muddiest bass I've ever heard. No amount of tweaking could get anything remotely resembling decent sound out of the thing. After more closely studying the setup I suspect that this has to do with the equalization of the ML system. The rear speakers are described as mid-woofers, which would imply to me that the low frequencies are rolled off. Therefore, the Basslink isn't getting a full spectrum signal off the rear speakers. Those that have added a Basslink off the rears, can you advise if you have a ML or non-ML system?

Next, I called Infinity for some moral support. The guy I spoke with basically said forget about trying to get decent sound out of any of the speaker outputs from the amp on a system that does a lot of processing/equalizing. The signal is so massaged and equalized that it will not produce satisfactory results. He suggested trying to get the signal from the head unit to the amp, so I tried this next.

I was already familiar with pulling the HU from the VAIS install, so I tempted fate again with the two top screws (managed not to lose them the first time). I found the connector that leads from the HU to the amp and temporarily connected a pair of leads from there to the Basslink. Bass was indeed noticeably improved! One small drawback is that, apparently, all volume control and muting is handled by the amp not the HU so the Basslink now played at the same volume regardless of the volume (or no volume) of the rest of the system. Scratch that- back to the drawing board.

So this is where I find myself. All I want to do is add a little bit of clean, tight bass without spending a ton. The only inexpensive option that I haven't tried yet is to tap the front woofers (door speakers) and hope they have the signal in the 20Hz - 150Hz range, and that it's not too distorted for the Basslink to use (Infinity tech support didn't think this would work). Barring that, the only other viable approach is to use something like the JL Audio Cleansweep to un-equalize the amp output, but this is far more than I'm currently looking to spend.

So, I apologize for the long-winded post but I'm all ears if anyone has any other ideas.

Thanks,

John

great write up, I dont really have time to do such an in-depth article, so i'll make it short. I had my stereo guy tap into the left and right rear door speakers, Ran the 12v+ from my battery through the firewall, and stuck the amp in the "cargo area" which was a custom fit, it looks beautiful though. We ran the hi-lo converter to the door speakers and ran the RCAs to the AMP then speaker wire from my amp to the Subwoofer. I have a giant JL 13w7, which is 13.5", and a Phoenix Gold 1200.1 amp rated at 1260W RMS @ 4ohm from the factory, this sucker will destroy your ear drums if you try and crank it up for more than a couple seconds. I utilize the luggage cover "privacy shade" over my sub so nobody can see what's back there, but surprisingly the subwoofer is not distorted/muted at all. We also ran a ground directly to the chassis right under the cargo box, which turned out well. The one problem I ran into was I killed the battery within 1 hour of running the system on straight battery, so I learned my lesson and purchased an optima yellow top the next day and haven't had any problems since. I'm installing "bass blockers" to block out frequencies below 75hz for the front door speakers this weekend since they distort at volumes over 40-45. I'm also looking into a remote amp control so I can turn down my subwoofer if I desire to. I don't have the ML system by the way and any other suggestions/input would be greatly appreciated, pics to come.

[Jim Clark]

People that have the bass blasting at extreme levels are obnoxious and they are destroying their hearing.

[jkatsoudas]

People that have the bass blasting at extreme levels are obnoxious and they are destroying their hearing.

Thanks for your valuable contribution to this thread.

[Jim Clark]

People that have the bass blasting at extreme levels are obnoxious and they are destroying their hearing.

Thanks for your valuable contribution to this thread.

I though reminding people who blast the bass that they are destroying their hearing (and they truly are) was a valuable contribution.

[jrober]

"I though reminding people who blast the bass that they are destroying their hearing (and they truly are) was a valuable contribution"

Supplementing the lower frequencies of a stereo system has absolutely nothing to do with the volumn level that one chooses to listen to. I have subwoofers in all my cars and only listen to music at low volumns that will never effect my hearing.

You contribution to the thread only exposed your ignorance to sound systems.

[Jim Clark]

"I though reminding people who blast the bass that they are destroying their hearing (and they truly are) was a valuable contribution"

Supplementing the lower frequencies of a stereo system has absolutely nothing to do with the volumn level that one chooses to listen to. I have subwoofers in all my cars and only listen to music at low volumns that will never effect my hearing.

You contribution to the thread only exposed your ignorance to sound systems.

Guess I need to clarify my post. I appreciate good low end in my sound system, in the car or at home (I have a very nice subwoofer in my family room). "Most" people who install serious subwoofers in their cars are teenagers who blast them to levels that create serious noise pollution, annoy drivers around them, and permanently damage their hearing.

I am not ignorant regarding sound systems. KMA!!! Need a definition for that?

[jkatsoudas]

"I though reminding people who blast the bass that they are destroying their hearing (and they truly are) was a valuable contribution"

Supplementing the lower frequencies of a stereo system has absolutely nothing to do with the volumn level that one chooses to listen to. I have subwoofers in all my cars and only listen to music at low volumns that will never effect my hearing.

You contribution to the thread only exposed your ignorance to sound systems.

Guess I need to clarify my post. I appreciate good low end in my sound system, in the car or at home (I have a very nice subwoofer in my family room). "Most" people who install serious subwoofers in their cars are teenagers who blast them to levels that create serious noise pollution, annoy drivers around them, and permanently damage their hearing.

I am not ignorant regarding sound systems. KMA!!! Need a definition for that?

I still have no idea what anything you've said has to do with anything in this thread. Please stop digging that hole you're in.

[jerryray]

First off- this is my first post on this forum and I want to thank everyone here for the incredible information. Reading the forum helped me decide to buy my new 2007 RXh. Since buying it I've added a VAIS Soundlinq SLX (XM radio), and this thread got me interested in adding a Basslink.

My attempts so far have been less than successful. I decided to run a 10ga wire directly to the battery, as the idea of running a 200W amp off a cigarette lighter made me a bit nervous. :P Several cut-up knuckles later that's done. I then tapped the rear speakers exactly as shown in this thread. I also downloaded the wiring schematic off the TIS website and can add some info on the wiring in order to ensure proper polarity of the wiring. The driver's side speaker leads are: white +, yellow -. Passenger side is: red w/yellow +, Blue -.

Using this setup I couldn't get the Basslink auto turn-on to work. After verifying a good 12v and ground connection with a multimeter I jumpered the +12V to the remote turn-on. It turned on and proceeded to produce some of the nastiest, muddiest bass I've ever heard. No amount of tweaking could get anything remotely resembling decent sound out of the thing. After more closely studying the setup I suspect that this has to do with the equalization of the ML system. The rear speakers are described as mid-woofers, which would imply to me that the low frequencies are rolled off. Therefore, the Basslink isn't getting a full spectrum signal off the rear speakers. Those that have added a Basslink off the rears, can you advise if you have a ML or non-ML system?

Next, I called Infinity for some moral support. The guy I spoke with basically said forget about trying to get decent sound out of any of the speaker outputs from the amp on a system that does a lot of processing/equalizing. The signal is so massaged and equalized that it will not produce satisfactory results. He suggested trying to get the signal from the head unit to the amp, so I tried this next.

I was already familiar with pulling the HU from the VAIS install, so I tempted fate again with the two top screws (managed not to lose them the first time). I found the connector that leads from the HU to the amp and temporarily connected a pair of leads from there to the Basslink. Bass was indeed noticeably improved! One small drawback is that, apparently, all volume control and muting is handled by the amp not the HU so the Basslink now played at the same volume regardless of the volume (or no volume) of the rest of the system. Scratch that- back to the drawing board.

So this is where I find myself. All I want to do is add a little bit of clean, tight bass without spending a ton. The only inexpensive option that I haven't tried yet is to tap the front woofers (door speakers) and hope they have the signal in the 20Hz - 150Hz range, and that it's not too distorted for the Basslink to use (Infinity tech support didn't think this would work). Barring that, the only other viable approach is to use something like the JL Audio Cleansweep to un-equalize the amp output, but this is far more than I'm currently looking to spend.

So, I apologize for the long-winded post but I'm all ears if anyone has any other ideas.

Thanks,

John

John, I do not have the ML system. I listened to one and did not think it was worth it.

I am not sure if I could have ordered the option because I wanted the RES, not sure if you could have both in 06.

I did not want to drill any holes.

Since the install I have added a dc-dc booster. This way I can have 13.8 volts at the AMP.

If you meter the +12 from the plug in the rear it can go as low as 11.5 volts.

I really do not play the system up very loud, just wanted some decent lows.

[NeoN]

guys,

My amp/subwoofer is far too powerful (1250 watts) and keeps draining my battery too much, so i've opted to run a Stinger SR200 battery isolater, so I can run two separate batteries. "Ideal for battery isolation, Stingers high current relays are the most reliable and efficient way to add secondary batteries to your system. Compatible with all types of alternators and charging systems, simply connect these relays to operate when the ignition is turned on. The battery systems remain separate while the ignition is off, preventing system drain"

basically i'll always have a starter battery if I kill my secondary auxiliary battery playing my sound system into the wee hours of the morning. I'm working on mounting a Stinger SP800 battery in my trunk on the right hand side storage bin making it invisible to any onlookers/theifs (stealth mode). We'll see how this turns out. I currently have my Amp mounted in the cargo area, which has worked out perfectly thus so far, no overheating, no visibility.

I had bass blockers installed in my rear speakers as well this weekend, and I can now say with confidence that my stereo system doesn't distort anymore, Although it was a pain in the !Removed!, everything is done (my sub provides the necessary bass).

[NeoN]

Here are the pics of my setup!

By the way, all of this work was done by Mauro over at Monmouth Stereo (732-842-6565)

Setup:

Sub: JL 13w7, 1000 Watts RMS, 2000 Watts Max @ 1.5 ohm, actually 13.5".

Amp: Phoenix Gold 1200.1 Amp, Rated 1250 watts RMS @ 1-4 ohm (I used to run this amp at 4 ohm, now I run it at 1.5 ohm)

Wires: 0-Gauge power wire, w/ 120 amp fuse,

Converter: Tsunami Hi-Lo converter

My amp Hidden under the extra cargo area, along with a flashlight and the wires going to my speakers.

My XM Radio, Valentine One and an air freshner for my health :-p

My JL 13w7, along with jumper cables, and the Stinger SP800 Auxiliary battery/Stinger SR200 Battery isolator relay waiting to go in

Close up view of part of the wires, I ran the rest through the cargo area, as you really can't see them unless you look by the controls on the amp them run into the cargo area and under back around to the front of the car.

Teaser pics of the supra and other cars at my house

[NeoN]

The Optima Yellow Top I now run under my hood to handle the increased load

Neat little subwoofer control volume installed next to my mirror switch, looks factory!!

After the install of my auxiliary battery (Stinger SP800), along with the Stinger SR200 battery isolator relay,

All my goodies (0 gauge jumper cables, flashlight, can of fix-o-flat, all ready to go in my cargo area)

Now you see it, now you don't!!

[trevelli]

First off- this is my first post on this forum and I want to thank everyone here for the incredible information. Reading the forum helped me decide to buy my new 2007 RXh. Since buying it I've added a VAIS Soundlinq SLX (XM radio), and this thread got me interested in adding a Basslink.

My attempts so far have been less than successful. I decided to run a 10ga wire directly to the battery, as the idea of running a 200W amp off a cigarette lighter made me a bit nervous. :P Several cut-up knuckles later that's done. I then tapped the rear speakers exactly as shown in this thread. I also downloaded the wiring schematic off the TIS website and can add some info on the wiring in order to ensure proper polarity of the wiring. The driver's side speaker leads are: white +, yellow -. Passenger side is: red w/yellow +, Blue -.

Using this setup I couldn't get the Basslink auto turn-on to work. After verifying a good 12v and ground connection with a multimeter I jumpered the +12V to the remote turn-on. It turned on and proceeded to produce some of the nastiest, muddiest bass I've ever heard. No amount of tweaking could get anything remotely resembling decent sound out of the thing. After more closely studying the setup I suspect that this has to do with the equalization of the ML system. The rear speakers are described as mid-woofers, which would imply to me that the low frequencies are rolled off. Therefore, the Basslink isn't getting a full spectrum signal off the rear speakers. Those that have added a Basslink off the rears, can you advise if you have a ML or non-ML system?

Next, I called Infinity for some moral support. The guy I spoke with basically said forget about trying to get decent sound out of any of the speaker outputs from the amp on a system that does a lot of processing/equalizing. The signal is so massaged and equalized that it will not produce satisfactory results. He suggested trying to get the signal from the head unit to the amp, so I tried this next.

I was already familiar with pulling the HU from the VAIS install, so I tempted fate again with the two top screws (managed not to lose them the first time). I found the connector that leads from the HU to the amp and temporarily connected a pair of leads from there to the Basslink. Bass was indeed noticeably improved! One small drawback is that, apparently, all volume control and muting is handled by the amp not the HU so the Basslink now played at the same volume regardless of the volume (or no volume) of the rest of the system. Scratch that- back to the drawing board.

So this is where I find myself. All I want to do is add a little bit of clean, tight bass without spending a ton. The only inexpensive option that I haven't tried yet is to tap the front woofers (door speakers) and hope they have the signal in the 20Hz - 150Hz range, and that it's not too distorted for the Basslink to use (Infinity tech support didn't think this would work). Barring that, the only other viable approach is to use something like the JL Audio Cleansweep to un-equalize the amp output, but this is far more than I'm currently looking to spend.

So, I apologize for the long-winded post but I'm all ears if anyone has any other ideas.

Thanks,

John

Did you ever figure this out? I'm at the same place right now. I have an amp wired up High Level Inputs to the rear speakers, and very ugly bass coming out. Where did you end up tapping the wires? What color wires did you tap? I see the amp behind the drivers seat, just wondering what input/output to tap into. I have a remote bass controller, so adjusting volume from the fronts wouldn't be too terrible.

What is "TIS"... how do I get a wiring diagram for this car?

Thanks!

Trevor

[NeoN]

First off- this is my first post on this forum and I want to thank everyone here for the incredible information. Reading the forum helped me decide to buy my new 2007 RXh. Since buying it I've added a VAIS Soundlinq SLX (XM radio), and this thread got me interested in adding a Basslink.

My attempts so far have been less than successful. I decided to run a 10ga wire directly to the battery, as the idea of running a 200W amp off a cigarette lighter made me a bit nervous. :P Several cut-up knuckles later that's done. I then tapped the rear speakers exactly as shown in this thread. I also downloaded the wiring schematic off the TIS website and can add some info on the wiring in order to ensure proper polarity of the wiring. The driver's side speaker leads are: white +, yellow -. Passenger side is: red w/yellow +, Blue -.

Using this setup I couldn't get the Basslink auto turn-on to work. After verifying a good 12v and ground connection with a multimeter I jumpered the +12V to the remote turn-on. It turned on and proceeded to produce some of the nastiest, muddiest bass I've ever heard. No amount of tweaking could get anything remotely resembling decent sound out of the thing. After more closely studying the setup I suspect that this has to do with the equalization of the ML system. The rear speakers are described as mid-woofers, which would imply to me that the low frequencies are rolled off. Therefore, the Basslink isn't getting a full spectrum signal off the rear speakers. Those that have added a Basslink off the rears, can you advise if you have a ML or non-ML system?

Next, I called Infinity for some moral support. The guy I spoke with basically said forget about trying to get decent sound out of any of the speaker outputs from the amp on a system that does a lot of processing/equalizing. The signal is so massaged and equalized that it will not produce satisfactory results. He suggested trying to get the signal from the head unit to the amp, so I tried this next.

I was already familiar with pulling the HU from the VAIS install, so I tempted fate again with the two top screws (managed not to lose them the first time). I found the connector that leads from the HU to the amp and temporarily connected a pair of leads from there to the Basslink. Bass was indeed noticeably improved! One small drawback is that, apparently, all volume control and muting is handled by the amp not the HU so the Basslink now played at the same volume regardless of the volume (or no volume) of the rest of the system. Scratch that- back to the drawing board.

So this is where I find myself. All I want to do is add a little bit of clean, tight bass without spending a ton. The only inexpensive option that I haven't tried yet is to tap the front woofers (door speakers) and hope they have the signal in the 20Hz - 150Hz range, and that it's not too distorted for the Basslink to use (Infinity tech support didn't think this would work). Barring that, the only other viable approach is to use something like the JL Audio Cleansweep to un-equalize the amp output, but this is far more than I'm currently looking to spend.

So, I apologize for the long-winded post but I'm all ears if anyone has any other ideas.

Thanks,

John

Did you ever figure this out? I'm at the same place right now. I have an amp wired up High Level Inputs to the rear speakers, and very ugly bass coming out. Where did you end up tapping the wires? What color wires did you tap? I see the amp behind the drivers seat, just wondering what input/output to tap into. I have a remote bass controller, so adjusting volume from the fronts wouldn't be too terrible.

What is "TIS"... how do I get a wiring diagram for this car?

Thanks!

Trevor

anyone? i'ld love to rewire my system to get nice deep clean bass!!! can anyone point mei n the direction of where the factory amp is so I can start messing around and figure out which speakers are best for tapping your subwoofer lines into?

[NeoN]

First off- this is my first post on this forum and I want to thank everyone here for the incredible information. Reading the forum helped me decide to buy my new 2007 RXh. Since buying it I've added a VAIS Soundlinq SLX (XM radio), and this thread got me interested in adding a Basslink.

My attempts so far have been less than successful. I decided to run a 10ga wire directly to the battery, as the idea of running a 200W amp off a cigarette lighter made me a bit nervous. :P Several cut-up knuckles later that's done. I then tapped the rear speakers exactly as shown in this thread. I also downloaded the wiring schematic off the TIS website and can add some info on the wiring in order to ensure proper polarity of the wiring. The driver's side speaker leads are: white +, yellow -. Passenger side is: red w/yellow +, Blue -.

Using this setup I couldn't get the Basslink auto turn-on to work. After verifying a good 12v and ground connection with a multimeter I jumpered the +12V to the remote turn-on. It turned on and proceeded to produce some of the nastiest, muddiest bass I've ever heard. No amount of tweaking could get anything remotely resembling decent sound out of the thing. After more closely studying the setup I suspect that this has to do with the equalization of the ML system. The rear speakers are described as mid-woofers, which would imply to me that the low frequencies are rolled off. Therefore, the Basslink isn't getting a full spectrum signal off the rear speakers. Those that have added a Basslink off the rears, can you advise if you have a ML or non-ML system?

Next, I called Infinity for some moral support. The guy I spoke with basically said forget about trying to get decent sound out of any of the speaker outputs from the amp on a system that does a lot of processing/equalizing. The signal is so massaged and equalized that it will not produce satisfactory results. He suggested trying to get the signal from the head unit to the amp, so I tried this next.

I was already familiar with pulling the HU from the VAIS install, so I tempted fate again with the two top screws (managed not to lose them the first time). I found the connector that leads from the HU to the amp and temporarily connected a pair of leads from there to the Basslink. Bass was indeed noticeably improved! One small drawback is that, apparently, all volume control and muting is handled by the amp not the HU so the Basslink now played at the same volume regardless of the volume (or no volume) of the rest of the system. Scratch that- back to the drawing board.

So this is where I find myself. All I want to do is add a little bit of clean, tight bass without spending a ton. The only inexpensive option that I haven't tried yet is to tap the front woofers (door speakers) and hope they have the signal in the 20Hz - 150Hz range, and that it's not too distorted for the Basslink to use (Infinity tech support didn't think this would work). Barring that, the only other viable approach is to use something like the JL Audio Cleansweep to un-equalize the amp output, but this is far more than I'm currently looking to spend.

So, I apologize for the long-winded post but I'm all ears if anyone has any other ideas.

Thanks,

John

Did you ever figure this out? I'm at the same place right now. I have an amp wired up High Level Inputs to the rear speakers, and very ugly bass coming out. Where did you end up tapping the wires? What color wires did you tap? I see the amp behind the drivers seat, just wondering what input/output to tap into. I have a remote bass controller, so adjusting volume from the fronts wouldn't be too terrible.

What is "TIS"... how do I get a wiring diagram for this car?

Thanks!

Trevor

where is the amp on this car? i don't see it behind the drivers seat

anyone? i'ld love to rewire my system to get nice deep clean bass!!! can anyone point mei n the direction of where the factory amp is so I can start messing around and figure out which speakers are best for tapping your subwoofer lines into?

[PatriotRX400h]

If you have a ML, check underneath the right rear seat. Check this ML link: ML