tckcumming Posted August 11, 2005 Posted August 11, 2005 I did this today on the advice of Toysrme (I only mention this so I'll have someone to blame if it all goes horribly wrong... :chairshot: ) Ready ..... Set...... Go....... 5 "clicks", as suggested. You can just see my red index mark behind the little coiled spring.... Filled up with Sunoco 94, went for a short drive. A-OK so far. Engine seems to rev more freely in mid-range when the pedal is "mashed", from about 30 mph and up. Still idles & runs the same otherwise. I'll drive it around for the next week or so & report back on anything that comes up. I'll check my gas mileage, too. Expecting it to be very good, since I've changed plugs, wires, cap, rotor. Engine running slightly leaner should help mileage a tiny bit, too. Do I need to re-seal the airflow sensor cover with silicone? I'd rather leave it with the cover on but unsealed, in case I want to change anything in the next while. I'll seal it back up once I've decided to leave it alone. Doesn't seem like it will hurt anything to leave it for now, as long as dirt or moisture can't get in. I'll wrap it up with duct tape in the meantime. :D tck...
Toysrme Posted August 11, 2005 Posted August 11, 2005 Ya re-seal it. It's not pressing, mine's been a part for months now to answer questions! :P But when ever you're happy with it, use some kind of silicon to put the top on so moisture can't get in. You really shouldn't need 94. If anything, mileage is gonna crash with it. 3vz-fe's would probably run 80 if they made it. :\ Damn timing is so retarded it's retarded.
tckcumming Posted August 11, 2005 Author Posted August 11, 2005 Ya re-seal it.It's not pressing, mine's been a part for months now to answer questions! :P But when ever you're happy with it, use some kind of silicon to put the top on so moisture can't get in. You really shouldn't need 94. If anything, mileage is gonna crash with it. 3vz-fe's would probably run 80 if they made it. :\ Damn timing is so retarded it's retarded. ← I don't usually use anything but regular unleaded, car runs just fine on it (even tho my owner's manual recommends super). It does get better mileage whenever I use super - but not enough to offset the added cost over the long run, I don't think. I haven't done an in-depth study or anything (like I'm sure others have done), these are just my impressions. Look at the photo I posted a while back of the spark plugs I pulled from my engine. They had around 100000KM (60000miles, give or take) and looked fine, no deposits or signs of abuse (2 of them, anyway!). Almost all those miles were regular driving on regular gas. I'll probably try messing with the timing a bit, once I buy a new timing light. I was setting the timing on my MGB a couple of months ago, backed the car up and ran right over the light. Crunch! tck... ps. - speaking of my MGB, while looking through the workshop manual, I came across the recommended fuel grade for my engine ('69, hi compression). MINIMUM octane requirement = 98. With lead additive. No wonder it's so hard to get it to run right! Can you even buy 98 octane fuel anymore?
Toysrme Posted August 12, 2005 Posted August 12, 2005 A lot of other countrie's premium grade is 98 RON. Here, you can get 98 octane in a very few places. You probably have to pull timing like a crack addict LoL!
Kowalski Posted August 15, 2005 Posted August 15, 2005 Doesn't it make sense that Lexus probably set the fuel mixture to their specified level to maximize the engine performance and economy? Changing it might make you think that you are getting a bigger kick in the pants but has anyone put the thing on a dyno to see if it Really makes a difference?
Toysrme Posted August 16, 2005 Posted August 16, 2005 No. Toyota sets their engines to run excessiely rich in open-loop mode to account for extremely poor grades of gasoline not found in developed countries. So that logic is very, very flawed. By excessively rich, peak power comes at 13.2-1. Nearly every factory Toyota engine will dyno 12.8 & richer. The Camry engines (3s, 4s, 5s, vz, 2vz, 3vz, 4vz, 1mz, 2mz, 3mz) at times dyno down to 12.5! (The v6's nearly all do - That's us!) That's normally the target for mild-medium forced induction. Simply put. The engine can't use the fuel & they bog down. The long term effects are slightly positive. Like I've siad dozes of times. If it's a Toyota engine from around 1980 +, there's at least 10 easy horsepower waiting to be found from simply leaning parts of the fuel curve.
tckcumming Posted August 16, 2005 Author Posted August 16, 2005 Doesn't it make sense that Lexus probably set the fuel mixture to their specified level to maximize the engine performance and economy? Changing it might make you think that you are getting a bigger kick in the pants but has anyone put the thing on a dyno to see if it Really makes a difference? ← You are right. I can't prove that this adjustment makes any real difference. It is probably very small on a dyno, if any at all. It's all very "seat-of-the-pants". The car does seem to "launch" better under some conditions tho. I stopped on a long deserted stretch of country road yesterday to try some hard launches. Foot on the brake, low gear, A/C off. Give it lots of throttle to "pump up" the torque converter, then side-step the brake. I got a nice launch, quite a bit of wheelspin, to the point that front wheel !Removed! was quite pronounced. Don't remember that from the last time I tried this ( a long time ago, admittedly). I did several of these starts, same result each time. Awesome! Maybe a little more tire pressure... Car manufacturers have to tune and adjust cars they sell with a LARGE "window" of performance & reliability built in. They have no idea who will be buying their product. Might be a granny who needs a grocery getter. Might be a family who needs a quite & reliable ride. Might be a closet drag racer who'll do practice launches on a deserted country road... they have to be sure the car they sell will be able to do all these things. They will always "err" on the side of caution and conservatism. They have to. I have always found that there is quite a bit of "free" performance (or economy, in the other direction) if you're willing to look for it. Just depends which side of the middle of the performance/economy road you want to travel. If I can add a little extra "oomph" by turning a gear a few clicks, why not? If I don't like the result, I'll turn it back. Maybe the other way a little. It might be better - it might be worse. One way to find out! I don't want a drag car or a street racer - I want my quiet, luxurious Lexus. But a little burning rubber on a back road every once in a while is a good thing, too. tck...
Kowalski Posted August 18, 2005 Posted August 18, 2005 Toysrme you said "The long term effects are slightly positive." So what are the positive effects, in your humble opinion of course? Oh... and can this modification be performed on the 1mzfe in a 98? Thanks very much.
Toysrme Posted August 18, 2005 Posted August 18, 2005 A 1mz-fe no, not for free. You can buy piggybacks to actually modify the signal to whatever you want. Old style used SAFC's can be sniped on ebay from $50-$150usd tho. That's not bad. More power Tuneability if you ever get major work done Less ring wear from possibly excessivly rich fuel
Kowalski Posted August 19, 2005 Posted August 19, 2005 Well that sucks that I cant do the mod as easily as you did, but thanks for replying to me. This is a great website and it has taught me alot about my car. Thanks again.
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