Ride Getting Harsh

[nc211]

It's over at the dealership again. I basically told them that I didn't pay $600 last week to have the thing worse off than before. They're good guys over there though. They're installing my new weatherstriping around the doors for free, so I can't complain about that. Took the mechanic for a drive, he heard the noises and felt the vibrations I've got. Said he'll get to the bottom of it. In the mean time, I riding in a 04' ES330. Nice car, but not a fan of Toyota's new electronic throttle set up. It's got a serious lag in response time, and very very shift happy, in my opinion. Dude, you got me on the gas milage , I haven't a clue as to why I get that milage, and I don't want to know.

[ArmyofOne]

It's over at the dealership again. I basically told them that I didn't pay $600 last week to have the thing worse off than before. They're good guys over there though. They're installing my new weatherstriping around the doors for free, so I can't complain about that. Took the mechanic for a drive, he heard the noises and felt the vibrations I've got. Said he'll get to the bottom of it. In the mean time, I riding in a 04' ES330. Nice car, but not a fan of Toyota's new electronic throttle set up. It's got a serious lag in response time, and very very shift happy, in my opinion. Dude, you got me on the gas milage  , I haven't a clue as to why I get that milage, and I don't want to know.

←

i wish you were near me. i hate diagnosing vehichles over the net LOL. the funny thing is, i could probably take one ride in it (or drive) and tell you exactly what it is.

trust me. If you want to do the struts, do them yourself. they arent difficult at all. a mankey with one arm tied behind him and only a set of socket wrenches could do it in 8 hrs.

ok maybe not...but you dont need many tools to do the job. Maybe a strut compressor if you cant get thecar high enough off the ground, but you can get that at autozone (put depiosit, take home, use bring back get $$$ back).

[nc211]

Hey Army, how's the wheels these days? Man, I've been through the ringer, and all but $$ broke with this thing. I've decided to take it on myself this weekend. Well, you were right, the shocks are toast. The dealer greased every bushing and mount, balanced the wheels and replaced the front right shock last weekend. The new shock killed the popping noise "on that side". The front left now pops when hitting dips in the road. They're all toast, tail sits too much, etc... Got three new shocks coming asap. I've still got that darn vibration during acceleration and I know it's the rear differential bushings. I don't have the $600 to pay for labor to get them out, and they don't seem like they require a press. I think it's a pain, but not like $600. I can't seem to find any literature on how to do it. The Chilton repair manuals I've found only cover 1st generation models. I'm in need of some place to find the instructions and tools required to replace the shocks and those darn differential bushings. Got any suggestions? Checked the library, amazon, borders...etc.... Got any of those handy charts you can attach? I'm heading down to the coast this weekend and using my buddy's garage to get under the car. Gonna put it up on two of those drive up ramps for the bushings, and jacks for the struts. I'm getting that "drone" sound now too. I know it's that TSB bulliten on the matter. When the dealer smiles at you when you pull up, and drive away :whistles: , you know you're being messed with.

Thanks amigo!

[Econ]

Just wanted to throw in here that you can get an online manual for your Lexus at Alldatadiy.com - it's $25 for the first year/per car and $15 every additional car or year after that.

Alldata provides (near as I can tell) a copy of the repair documentation that the dealerships use. This means that from time to time they refer to SST (Special Service Tools) with part numbers that you may not recognize, but more often than not it's just a ball joint separator or a spring compressor or something equally mundane.

The documentation for my 91 LS 400 is excellent, and I can print out any of the schematics or details or diagnostic routines I want. The interface takes some getting used to (it's a hierarchical layout, so you start at "Suspension and Steering" and click through to "Shocks - Repair and Replace"), but there's always a part search option.

Enough plugging - sorry, got carried away on my morning coffee. Sorry I can't be of more help in diagnosing the problem, but perhaps this resource will aid you in the DIY area.

[nc211]

I hear ya' econ, good suggestion! However, on this one, all they do is point to the tsb posting, no actual "how to" or "what's needed". But it might for the shocks, I'll check. Thanks

[nc211]

Good call Econ, I found the instructions on the shocks there. I don't know why I didn't think of that, been on that site a million times. I'm the one that needs the coffee

The fronts look easy, no sweat. But the back ones look like hell! Army, do you know if they're really that bad? Do you really have to remove the back seat and so forth? These cars require some tlc, but when they're right, boy are they RIGHT.

[ArmyofOne]

Good call Econ, I found the instructions on the shocks there. I don't know why I didn't think of that, been on that site a million times. I'm the one that needs the coffee

The fronts look easy, no sweat. But the back ones look like hell! Army, do you know if they're really that bad? Do you really have to remove the back seat and so forth? These cars require some tlc, but when they're right, boy are they RIGHT.

←

yes the rears require backseat removal.

but that isnt that difficult on the ES, so it shouldnt be too much harder on the LS.

wish you were near here, jason will do shocks/struts/springs for $250.

try doing just the fornt, and then see fi that helps the noise, then pay someoen to do the back.

[nc211]

Well, I got under the car this past weekend to hit those differential mounting bushings. Althought the manual calls for removal of the differential completely "driveshaft and axles" you don't really have to do that. It's three bolts "the two bushings and one other to the frame. The two bushing bolts are NO joke to get loose. We hit it with an impact wrench, the whole nine yards with the 12mm allen wrench. I finally had to take it to my buddy at jiffy lube to break those things loose. Once we had the bolts out, all you have to do is lower the differential about 2 1/2 inches with your jack to get clearance. But, getting the actual mounts out of the car is a whole different story. Those things are in there, and I'm not sure how to get them out. There isn't a lot of room up there to work with. There is an SST for the job, but that would require removal of the differential. I think I can come up with something similar that will work. But anyway, on a side note, we were correct Army, that bushing is toast, big time. When my buddy put the car in drive, all the rips and tears in it came to light, it's bad and probably won't last too much longer. I think anyone who has this sort of vibration issues should check their differential bushings pronto.

[ArmyofOne]

Well, I got under the car this past weekend to hit those differential mounting bushings. Althought the manual calls for removal of the differential completely "driveshaft and axles" you don't really have to do that. It's three bolts "the two bushings and one other to the frame. The two bushing bolts are NO joke to get loose. We hit it with an impact wrench, the whole nine yards with the 12mm allen wrench. I finally had to take it to my buddy at jiffy lube to break those things loose. Once we had the bolts out, all you have to do is lower the differential about 2 1/2 inches with your jack to get clearance. But, getting the actual mounts out of the car is a whole different story. Those things are in there, and I'm not sure how to get them out. There isn't a lot of room up there to work with. There is an SST for the job, but that would require removal of the differential. I think I can come up with something similar that will work. But anyway, on a side note, we were correct Army, that bushing is toast, big time. When my buddy put the car in drive, all the rips and tears in it came to light, it's bad and probably won't last too much longer. I think anyone who has this sort of vibration issues should check their differential bushings pronto.

←

to get the bushing out, use a C-Clamp to force it some fo the way out, the other option is to get a pipe the same size, and a block of wood. put the open pipe on the bushing, put the block of wood over the other end of the pipe and proceed to knock the !Removed! out of it with a RGDBMFH (Reall Godd***ed Big M*****F***** Hammer ;) ). without the special tool, thats the only way i know of...

[nc211]

Hey Army, you mentioned something about the rack an pinion mount sometimes goes bad. I'm not really sure where that is, or which part it is. If it's in this attachment, can you tell me the #? Is it #2 & 3? Are they hard to spot underneath the car?

I've got the new shocks now. Going to check this mounting thing out this weekend and see if it's that. If not, then I think i'm in trouble for some upper control arms. From my understandings, the gen2 upper balljoints can't be replaced on their own. So I figure if I'm in it for the bushings, then might as well get the ball joints too, instead of an aftermarket bushing set.

Thanks amigo

[ArmyofOne]

Hey Army, you mentioned something about the rack an pinion mount sometimes goes bad. I'm not really sure where that is, or which part it is. If it's in this attachment, can you tell me the #? Is it #2 & 3? Are they hard to spot underneath the car?

I've got the new shocks now. Going to check this mounting thing out this weekend and see if it's that. If not, then I think i'm in trouble for some upper control arms. From my understandings, the gen2 upper balljoints can't be replaced on their own. So I figure if I'm in it for the bushings, then might as well get the ball joints too, instead of an aftermarket bushing set.

Thanks amigo

←

The rack and pinion mount and bushing are #'s 2 and 3. should be the same for both sides :)

Definately repalce the control arms with OEM instad of aftermarket. this si not an A/C compressor (thus not good aftermarket). if this part fails at any speed, you are looking at damage to your car, and anything over 35 you are looking at SERIOUS damage, and anything higher than 65 could mean death...so definately opo the extra and go OEM. where are you located? i may be able ot help you with a connection i have.

[nc211]

:cries: crap. well, there goes another $700 hit to the card. Are the uppers usually the first ones to go? That's where the clunking sound is coming from primarily. I'm probably going to do the install work myself, since I've got the repair manuals now for the car "5 three ring binders worth". How can I tell if the back ones are going too? I don't hear any clunks, creaks or anything of that nature from them. I'm in Raleigh, NC. Thanks Army!

[ArmyofOne]

:cries:  crap. well, there goes another $700 hit to the card. Are the uppers usually the first ones to go? That's where the clunking sound is coming from primarily. I'm probably going to do the install work myself, since I've got the repair manuals now for the car "5 three ring binders worth". How can I tell if the back ones are going too? I don't hear any clunks, creaks or anything of that nature from them.  I'm in Raleigh, NC. Thanks Army!

←

let me make a phone call, you want which parts? dont do anything yet.

the upper control arms? thats it? 95 LS4 right?

from the link i mentioned on page 1:

Upper cntrl arm Right 95-00 List Price: $335.49 Your Price: $251.62

Upper cntrl arm Left 95-00 List Price: $335.49 Your Price: $251.62

i cant get em any cheaper than that, maybe $20, but you will pay that in shipping.

Its #5 right?

[nc211]

If you can get the upper's for that price, heck, I'll take the lowers too and maybe the backs as well. I'm really getting worn out with fix one thing only to wait and fix the other later. I think I'm just going to get all of it at once, fix it all at once and get back to enjoying the car. So, if you can get the hook up on all the control arms, I'd be in your debt forever "and citi banks" hahaha.

I've got the shocks and of course those rear differential bushings to put on as well. Gonna get those rack mounts too.

She's a 95 ls4.

Thanks Army

[nc211]

Oops, yeah, it's #5. Probably gonna need #8 as well. Probably need outer tie rods too. Basically, nothing on the car has ever been replaced other than what I've done. I plan on keeping this car for another 150k miles, so a couple grand spent, stretched out over a few more years really isn't that much.

[ArmyofOne]

Oops, yeah, it's #5. Probably gonna need #8 as well. Probably need outer tie rods too. Basically, nothing on the car has ever been replaced other than what I've done. I plan on keeping this car for another 150k miles, so a couple grand spent, stretched out over a few more years really isn't that much.

←

ok, go here:

http://www.discounttoyotaparts.com

select your year and make. Click on the circle that says "collision parts". then select your model.

then go:

Front suspension--->Suspension Components (not "shocks and suspension compoinents")--->Upper Control Arm.

repeat procedure for other parts.

if you want me to get them from my guy, i can, but you will have to PM me as i will need personal info (Phone #, adress, things of this nature). if you go here you can do it yourself, for almost the same price (literally a difference of like $20).

#8 is another $178 per side. Outer tie rods are $38 per side. ill call homer and see what i can do. to save you as much money as possible.

EDIT: looks liek i will have to call tomorrow. he is not there today. Pm me with your name and Zip code for shiping costs. i will also need your adress, and a few other things.

[nc211]

Army, here are the attachements from the PM. I replied to that before I read this thread. I'm at 27609 zip. Nice hook up on the web link too, it's not exactly the same location I've ordered from, but same prices it seems. I've gone the hoyfox route in texas. But if Homer can get even better, all helps for the beer fund to install these myself. Hahaha. Who da' man? You da' man!

[nc211]

Army...correction: your place is MUCH cheaper than mine!! Thank man!! Just on the control arm stuff, not the tie rods and rack mounts, it's $195.75 CHEAPER. Dude, can't thank you enough for that info. If this is the place you were talking about, and know the guy's name for me to contact and give you a "good guy award", just tell me his name.

To All who read this: If you own a Lexus, and you're not active on this forum, you're making a very big mistake.

[ArmyofOne]

You have a PM, Homer said initially around $1200. but then he said it could be as high as $1400, but definately not any higher. he has to calculate the sales tax for your state and shipping costs, but definately no more than $1400. thats for everything you said in your PM. THATS A HUGE SAVINGS for 4 upper and 4 lower control arms(ball joints included), 2 TRE's and that other thing you wanted (forgot what it was at the moment, but i have it in my PM's)

Discount Toyota Parts is another source i use, but Homer can usually get everything cheaper, he si the Assistant Parts Manager at a local Toyota dealer. :) so no, DTP wasnt THE source i was initally talking about, but if you want to call homer before you buy and find the best deal, you now have a PM with his contact info :). tell him Joshua Morrison says to hook you up! :)

[nc211]

I called and placed the order today! He's a nice guy! I got a great deal too, looking forward to getting all these new parts on the car. Actually looking forward to doing them myself as well. A sense of gratification on doing things yourself. All of this cost me about the same as if I was doing just one wheel at the dealership. I'm getting ALL wheels done, all control arms, all everything. Can't freakin' wait to drive her then! Gonna be a smooth machine. Army, thanks man, seriously appreciate the help!

[ArmyofOne]

I called and placed the order today! He's a nice guy! I got a great deal too, looking forward to getting all these new parts on the car. Actually looking forward to doing them myself as well. A sense of gratification on doing things yourself. All of this cost me about the same as if I was doing just one wheel at the dealership. I'm getting ALL wheels done, all control arms, all everything. Can't freakin' wait to drive her then! Gonna be a smooth machine. Army, thanks man, seriously appreciate the help!

←

No problem, glad i could be of service :)

[nc211]

Army, thought I would update this thread. I'm goin' in this weekend, one more time for those differential bushings. Got a wicked little tool from Autozone "2 ton jack puller" that I think will work from the back. Also, got all the parts in from Homer. All in all, it came out to be right around what I had expected, about $1,750. Not bad for:

4 Upper control arms "front and back"

4 lower control arms "front and back"

2 rear strut rods

2 outter tie rods

I'm also installing new shocks. She should be perfect after this. All suspension parts will be new...or at least until the check engine light comes on and requests another $500 for egr pipe. Hahaha

Any word on your deployment? What did you settle on for a new car?