92Lex Posted October 24, 2004 Author Posted October 24, 2004 Remove timing belt guide, then remove the timing belt from the vehicle:
92Lex Posted October 24, 2004 Author Posted October 24, 2004 Remove idler pulley No.2 (1)14mm bolt: Torque specs: 25ft-lbs
92Lex Posted October 24, 2004 Author Posted October 24, 2004 Remove idler pulley No.1 (1)10mm hex socket: Torque specs: 25ft-lbs
92Lex Posted October 24, 2004 Author Posted October 24, 2004 If you're ONLY replacing the timing belt and not the water pump, then skip these next steps and go to the last post on the next page (3). *Water Pump* Remove right head ignition coil:
92Lex Posted October 24, 2004 Author Posted October 24, 2004 *Water Pump* Remove water inlet housing (the housing that has the coolant filler bolt):
92Lex Posted October 24, 2004 Author Posted October 24, 2004 *Water Pump* Remove water pump (5)12mm bolts (1)12mm nut...clean up all the old gasket material real good before mounting new water pump: Water pump removed:
92Lex Posted October 24, 2004 Author Posted October 24, 2004 Put high temperature sealant on new water pump like so and remount:
92Lex Posted October 24, 2004 Author Posted October 24, 2004 I replaced both of these gaskets...they came with the waterpump I purchased... then install in reverse order:
92Lex Posted October 24, 2004 Author Posted October 24, 2004 Then just install everything in the reverse order that you removed them...to make lining up your camshaft timing pulleys easier later, make sure the installation mark on the timing belt and crankshaft line up like this: When installing the belt to the camshaft pulleys do the left head cam first, do the same with the right head cam then install the tensioner. Once you're done installing your timing belt, turn your crankshaft from TDC to TDC stopping on the "0" mark just to make sure your camshaft pulleys line up with the marks on the engine. Install everything in reverse then fill up with coolant and top off with ATF if needed. (I listed the torque specs for each part below each picture)
92Lex Posted October 2, 2005 Author Posted October 2, 2005 If you have any questions, please don't hesitate to email me.
J-Roc Posted March 7, 2006 Posted March 7, 2006 How do you check/adjust the timing on these engines? Thanks!
dznguyen Posted November 26, 2006 Posted November 26, 2006 If you have any questions, please don't hesitate to email me. Don't see any pictures you posted for the timing belt changed in this thread. Can you send them to me? dznguyen98023@yahoo.com Thanks, Dung
Steve 13565 Posted April 15, 2007 Posted April 15, 2007 Then just install everything in the reverse order that you removed them...to make lining up your camshaft timing pulleys easier later, make sure the installation mark on the timing belt and crankshaft line up like this: When installing the belt to the camshaft pulleys do the left head cam first, do the same with the right head cam then install the tensioner. Once you're done installing your timing belt, turn your crankshaft from TDC to TDC stopping on the "0" mark just to make sure your camshaft pulleys line up with the marks on the engine. Install everything in reverse then fill up with coolant and top off with ATF if needed. (I listed the torque specs for each part below each picture) :chairshot:
Steve 13565 Posted April 15, 2007 Posted April 15, 2007 If you have any questions, please don't hesitate to email me. Don't see any pictures you posted for the timing belt changed in this thread. Can you send them to me? dznguyen98023@yahoo.com Thanks, Dung
toofazt Posted April 19, 2007 Posted April 19, 2007 I tried to email you but it said I wasn't allowed. I have the timing belt lined up with the dot on the crank shaft, the cam pulleys, and mark on the engine for the cam pulleys. I don't understand how many times I have to rotate the crank shaft to go from TDC to TDC to check if the marks on the timing belt line up again. I tried rotating the crank shaft until the line on the timing belt made a full rotation and got back down to the crank shaft but then then it didn't line up any more... One thing I noticed is that your TDC is directly below the crank shaft and mine is a little to the right (see pic). Thank you for any help!
92Lex Posted April 23, 2007 Author Posted April 23, 2007 That mark on the lower portion of the crankshaft sprocket isn't the TDC mark. That mark is to make your life easier when it comes time to align the pulleys. The TDC mark on that sprocket is visible/located on the top. Don't worry too much about getting the marks to line up with the marks on the belt right now. The important thing is that the marks on the camshaft pulley's and crankshaft, line up with the marks on the engine. Are they aligned?
toofazt Posted April 23, 2007 Posted April 23, 2007 That mark on the lower portion of the crankshaft sprocket isn't the TDC mark. That mark is to make your life easier when it comes time to align the pulleys. The TDC mark on that sprocket is visible/located on the top. Don't worry too much about getting the marks to line up with the marks on the belt right now. The important thing is that the marks on the camshaft pulley's and crankshaft, line up with the marks on the engine. Are they aligned? Do you have a picture of the TDC mark on the sprocket and the engine? I'm pretty sure the marks on the camshaft pulleys and engine are lined up; you can see that in this picture marked in red, right? Thanks so much for trying to help! I just ordered Chilton's Import Car Repair Manual 1989-1993 so that should help me too
92Lex Posted May 3, 2007 Author Posted May 3, 2007 They seem perfect. I thought that you were worried about the crankshaft mark.
toofazt Posted May 10, 2007 Posted May 10, 2007 They seem perfect. I thought that you were worried about the crankshaft mark. I think I figured it out, I bought a book on it. We'll find out for sure when I start it!
toofazt Posted May 10, 2007 Posted May 10, 2007 I did what you said to check the timing. I went from TDC to TDC and this is where the mark ended up. Is that right? Thanks
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