ihateduke

My 99 RX has about 190k on it and I had been hearing a noise (for about 2 years or more) that sounded like it was coming from the rear struts. I finally replaced all 4 struts this weekend and to my amazement, the rear shocks were in bad shape. When you push down the rod, it wouldn't come back up! I reused the original springs, but now I'm starting to wonder if by chance those springs are worn out since they were doing all the suspension in the rear? The shocks don't have that much strength compared to the springs, but the springs definitely seemed weak during removal, as compared to the front ones. Any ideas? Should I just not worry about it? I just don't want to wear out the new shocks b/c the springs are weak.

Thanks a million for those documents! That's much easier to follow than the old repair manual. I read through the LU document, which goes into great detail on how to remove the oil pump. While it may be a good idea to remove all the oil pans and clean them, I'm trying to minimize work on this job. Now that I have a brand new timing belt installed, it's periodically squealing because it's getting oil on it. The Oil Pump was completely covered with oil, which makes me think it's the culprit, although it could be the valve cover above (which I will check tomorrow). On page 11 of the LU document (http://www.box.net/shared/o55c5697lt/1/9328827/92955187), it appears that you can remove the oil pump via the 9 bolts, without removing all the other stuff (oil pans, etc.). Is that correct?

You were exactly right. It actually came out really easy. Well this was my hope, but I didn't want to screw it up worse! In the manual it lists the "water pump bolt" as 69 ft-lbs. They are clearly talking about some other bolt!!! Usually I buy OEM parts, but this happens to be an AC Delco water pump. My other one looks fine, but it has 180k on it and the dealership said it was making noise. It's going to be funny if it was fine all along and it's my oil pump that's making noise! THANK YOU for your help!

While performing a timing belt change, I realized that there was a small oil leak on the rear/passenger side of my motor. It appears to be coming from the oil pump. I have the general instructions for how to replace one of these, but I was curious if I needed to replace the entire oil pump or if there was just a seal or specific part that I could swap. Any help would be appreciated!

Here's the photo again. It didn't seem to stick the previous time.

If you look inside the block, where the good stud is located, you can see what looks like the head. If that's the case, I don't know of anyway to remove that stud. I guess I could cut it off flush, then drill out the rest. Rethread/tap the hole and use a new size bolt. Alternately, I may just hope that it's not really needed and hook everything back up and pray.

I made a huge mistake tonight on my 99 RX300. I had removed my water pump and just put the new one back on. I was torquing the bolts per some WRONG info. The water pump has 2 studs, a bunch of bolts and 2 nuts that go on two small studs. So one of the small studs is the problem here. See the attached photo. The upper one snapped off. I don't think I can remove this stud like I did the others. I think it has to be pulled back through, which is impossible (or I have to rip the whole motor block apart). Just curious if anyone has any ideas? I do have stud extractor tools, but I'm afraid to try it on one of these for fear that I may break something else.

Please cancel this post. I accidentally posted this twice.

FWIW, I just realized that the oil pump is in that area and is the most likely culprit. Jeez, I'm gonna have a new car after I finish all these projects!

I'm getting ready to start this project today. I'm getting an oil leak from the belt tensioner area. My guess is that I will uncover from where after I tear all the covers off. Maybe that's a sign that the water pump is going bad? Although, I would have expected to have coolant leaking instead. When swapping the water pump, do you need to use any sort of silicone on the gasket? The video doesn't show that, but I think my water pump came with a small tube.

I found the following directions on how to replace the starter. Just curious, do you have to remove the starter to replace the contacts or can that be done while it's still attached? I'm sure it will make sense when I get in there, but I wanted to prep as much as possible. My contacts are on the way! The starter is surprisingly easy to replace. First take off the air filter box. Open the air filter box and remove the filter. Disconnect the air line from the air filter box which connects to the throttle body (this is done using a 10 mm socket or Phillips screw driver and loosening the clamp). Disconnect the sensor and vacuum line which connect into the air filter box. Next, remove the 3 bolts from the bottom of the air filter box. Once this is done you should be able to remove the air filter box as one complete piece and take out of engine compartment (place bolts inside the box and place to the side of your working area). Next disconnect both battery terminals. Remove battery bracket which holds battery in place (this runs across the top of the battery and bolts into the sheet metal along the front of the engine area). Remove battery from engine compartment. Remove rectangle casing surrounding the battery. Once the air filter box and battery have been completely removed, you will see the starter just to the left of where the air filter box and battery were. The starter is approximately level with the base support of the battery. The starter has 2 bolts to be removed along with the contact terminal and sensor. Remove the two bracket bolts which bolt into engine (should be 14 mm I think) which are locate on each side of the starter (look at the replacement to locate exact position). Next remove the contact terminal (should be 10mm) connected to starter. Next remove sensor clip (this is done by squeezing the end and pulling off). \ Once starter is removed: Bolt contect connection onto new starter (should be 10mm). Re-insert sensor clip to new starter by pushing it in until you hear it click or until it is securely in. Next, line up starter bolt holes with bolt holes on engine block and start threading BOTH bolts before tightening one down. Snug bolts securely. NOW YOU HAVE REPLACED THE STARTER!!!! Replace Battery and terminal connections (red to + and black to -) and battery bracket. Replace air filter box and reconnect all connections taken loose. Bolt 3 bolts at base of filter box back to original position. NOTE: when replacing filter box, make sure the opening on the right hand side of box (large open hole) lines up with air intake opening from right side of engine compartment. Connect hose back to throttle body by tightening clamp. Replace sensor connections and vacuum line to air filter box. Replace air filter if needed in filter box. Clamp air filter down.

You guys are life savers! I believe you're exactly right. Just to think that this could end up being repaired by a $5 part, which probably only cost a penny to make!

One other note. I did test with multiple keys and that had no effect. Also, when I turn the key to START there is a clicking sound that comes from the motor area. That makes me wonder if the ignition switch is fine but maybe the starter is failing.

Over the past 2-3 months, when I would crank my car, sometimes the switch wouldn't do anything. To be clear, the power is fine and the Accessory and On part works fine. It's only when I turn it to crank the engine that nothing would happen. Usually if I tried it again, it would work fine. Just to be safe, I got a brand new battery this weekend because the old one was leaking really bad. On one specific time, when I cranked the car, it continued to crank even after I removed the key (which is kind of the opposite of the general problem). Anyway, I'm pretty sure the ignition switch is simply warn out or some related component. I ordered one of these: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=400160051969&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWNX%3AIT, although it hasn't arrived yet. As of today, I can't even get the car to crank. Does anyone know if this is definitely the part that I need? If it is, any suggestions on how to replace it. I ripped the dash apart and I see a long silver cylinder and I assume the switch is under it somewhere. I haven't gotten any further, because without the switch it won't help. Thanks for any advice! Chris